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About LinkBacksi been researching for these beam's for our car's but the min. is 40 rods so i was wondering if anyone is enterested in these as well? O and the company makes billet cranks as wall 5 min.
i been researching for these beam's for our car's but the min. is 40 rods so i was wondering if anyone is enterested in these as well? O and the company makes billet cranks as wall 5 min.
Most of us just run B-series rods with custom pistons. Cheaper in the long run than having both custom rods AND custom pistons.
A TON cheaper. And our cranks are already pretty strong, but i'd be interested to see a price on a billet crank.
well i'll contact the company and find out more info on the rods and cranks tomorrow
There have been A20 engines around 350HP with the stock crank. No need to upgrade it. You have to have pistons cut to order for this engine anyway, since no one can agree on one compression ratio. Since you have to have custom pistons, just buy off the shelf H-beam rods from a B18 and be done with it?
It's hard to get companies to make one-off parts as it is, so why pursue something that's going to end up really expensive, and no better than what we already have?
the reason is many the crank 350hp isn't enough for what i'm doing, piston i already understand. but rods is a consern if it can't hold the power i'm s.o.l. i've read that our cranks are foraged
There was one of these cars down in the 10's, I believe it was still running a stock crank. Like I said, why try to have something custom made for a LOT of money when you can order them off the shelf for a lot less with only a small amount of work.
to reiterate, B18 rods fit, which means you can get any B18 rods and make them work. There are 600+ HP B18s running off the shelf rods. Why not just pick up some of those with a set of custom pistons that you have to order anyway. If you're concerned about the crank, then send it in for cryotreating.
What are your plans for the car, if you don't mind me asking?
the reasoning for it is a kid i beat with my sand truck was crying because i had a bigger motor then him (he has a s4) so i bet him i could beat him with my honda and it's on now. so 350 and 4 is what i'm shooting for but i still what it driveable, so i've been buying part's and reading treads on here to find out what is the best shit for this car because honda world is about the B,H and K so it make's it diffacult to find parts
An a20 making that much power isn't going to be streetable. How much is at stake and how much are you willing to spend?
Do you have an instant messaging program? I'd like to chat with you that way for a bit about your build.
the stakes orig pinks but now it just bragin rights, he's got a little over 300hp to an awd so the 350 to 4 is the only way i fig i can win even with the fwd and i have the sedan but i'm welding the back doors and tacking the windows in just for weight reasons, but anyways i just don't what the motor to blow after one pass. and i don't have IM because i'm at work right now
Have you ever rebuilt a motor, or will you outsource this to a shop?
And may I ask where you work?
i've built fords and chevy's my whole life and my dad's the top mechanic for the spokane fire department so with tax money i have got all the tools other then machine work. i work at the dealers auto auction just out side spokane. why? what on your mind
You sound like the kind of guy that can pull this off, then.
Are you set on using the A20, or would you be willing to swap? An H22 can hit 400HP a lot easier than an A20. You'll also have more potential power. The cost is negligible now that H22s are being pulled out for K-series swaps. Some welding and some axle building and you're already at 220HP.
If you're stuck with the A20, you're looking at a full rebuild with high-spec parts, and it probably won't be dead reliable, either. You can have a reasonably reliable 400HP H22.
Are you comfortable with forced induction? It doesn't really matter what kind of motor you end up with, you'll be running boost.
Are you able to bid on cars at your auction yourself, or would you have to use the front door and bid with a license?
i've thuogh about the h22 but most of the thing on here say it would be more of a bi*&h to do then a B-swap but i like the H because of the torq. and forced induction i already have a t3/t4 i was going to put on the A. I've bought a cam gear, toga oil pump, and a cult stage 2 tri-flo and 9lb. flywheel were going to be next week
and for the auction you have to be a lic. dealer but i've got my was to get what i need around here
Okay, looks like you're on your way to an A build.
Get a set of springs from Bisimoto here: http://bisimoto.net/store/index.php?...ivctt8lqf17t81
A set of H-Beam rods from Eagle here: http://www.eaglerod.com/index.php?op...d=33&Itemid=40
Call JE up for your pistons, here's their site http://www.jepistons.com/
You will want to improve your intake manifold. The 87 isn't as bad as the later 88/89 manifold, but you can redrill a B16 manifold to fit right on our heads.
You're also going to want to clean up the head casting a good deal. These castings aren't bad by some standards, but I find them kinda boogered.
With a good turbo manifold, you should be there with hardware.
After you have that going, you need to think about engine tuning. I'm a fan of MegaSquirt. Shouldn't set you back all that much, less than $1000 for the whole shebang. You can setup a crankfire ignition, and you'll have full control over your spark tables and fuel map.
Of course, there are a million other supporting mods to think about. You're probably going to break axles until you get mounts strengthened and stronger axles built.
I wish I had the money to put into a car like this. I'd go in another direction, but I wish I had this much money.
so about axle's that was another problem but if i did the teg trany swap then i could have hybred aftermarket one right? i for got the blaster 2 coil pulled from a accord in the junk yard, but i've seen 500 whp civic that were steetable? the mag in front of my lol. i really don't what to sound like a A-hole but money i have saved up its just a matter of making it strong for the most part. i've been reading the the A20 was one the the stronger motors honda's made. it just getting the right part is the problem
It's a Honda iron block. Very strong blocks, they hold a LOT of boost. The forged crank helps out, too.
Streetability comes down to what you're willing to put up with. If you don't mind driving a car that has an on-off switch for a clutch, solid motor mounts, and a bad idle, then sure, you can street it. I like my AC, and I like a smooth car. To me, I wouldn't want to street any of the wild A20 builds that I've seen. A buddy of mine had a mild bolt-on only A20 that got a little annoying on the street. Admittedly, it could have used tuning to take care of it, but we're talking maybe 135HP.
I'm not sure about the axles. I think with boost, you'll be much better off using your current transmission. You want the taller gears.
One thing you should take into account is the weight of your car. You probably have a half-ton weight advantage on him. That means you don't have to get as extreme to kick his ass.
i'm not bothered by the rough idle like i sayed earlier i've built 1000hp small block's with 3500 stall converters in them the compact thimg is all new to me other then the RB i'm going to in stall in a 72 toy corona. but this honda is all new to me. so hard mounts won't mess up the unibody of the accord though? this was a dabate me and my dad had them or pholy?
I'd go with poly since you plan on using it on the street. You can poly fill with windoweld, but I'm not sure if those will hold up. We don't have any upgrade mounts available to us. You may end up with solid mounts because you'll likely keep breaking anything less.
I don't think you'll have problems with the unitbody in this car. You may want a cage, but that's for your safety, not the rigidity of the car.
now how about a lsd for the A is the phantom 903 the rigth one?
http://store.phantomgrip.com/catalog...products_id=29Originally Posted by JohnBoy
i think that is the one you need
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap
2004 Honda Accord EX
otay well it's the 902 phantom, so how abhout the best programable ecu
Megasquirt.
or honda obd1 tuned with chrome......This is how i see it. if you boosting take it obd1 and tune it with Tuner an see what he tune with and get it tuned on that program. Here in washington i see alot of chrome thats what im going to be tunning with hear soon. HOPEFULLY if my block is okay or rings. i want 250 on this stock rebuild which i was close. Axles you can get some made for bout 300 a side. which i undestand is alot of DOE but a you want to play you going to have to pay. Tranny. well johnny o pulled a 10s on the stock accord tranny. but everthing else listed and was told by the other members on the rods,pistons,block work,head. is what im doing. on my other build...all the crome holly polly w/e bs is not needed. simple as it gets IS wrote on post 16. couldnt told it better myself. If you where to search you can find plenty of members builds. gives you a good base of what you looking at and what kind of money what you want to spend......Its all bout what you want.
Rendon
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
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