hahah what wheels are thoes, looks like the ones i have for my hatch hahaha
hahah what wheels are thoes, looks like the ones i have for my hatch hahaha
rays TE-37. Genuine :O
wheels have the oem stickers now. it costed 900NZD but i now have a mint brand new set of these wheels in mint condition
now... lowering must happen!
put the oem foglights on today. looks tops. Also test fitted my header that came with the engine. it hits the front crossmember and the one tat goes under the engine. FUCKING BITCH!!
I cant use it unless i seriously modify the crossmembers
(Y)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Originally Posted by AccordB20A
put the oem foglights on today. looks tops. Also test fitted my header that came with the engine. it hits the front crossmember and the one tat goes under the engine. FUCKING BITCH!!
I cant use it unless i seriously modify the crossmembers
need 4-1 header, not those 4-2-1 jobs from earlier in the thread
Last edited by Hauntd ca3; 06-08-2013 at 11:57 PM.
make me one then. it appears i have to stick with the stock one since the ones that came with this engine do not fit
i bought mine. 4-1 for a 3gee poolude si.
very minor mod needed and the a/c gets ditched, but thats its
autobend in chch make them, if they werent flattened inthe quake
Also my mate alex talked to the guy that built my engine and got some more info out of him. He said the header was good for 20kw, he designed and made it for the engine apparently. He said the engine has a lightened and balanced crank assembly with polished rods, 12:1 CR ITR pistons and ported head. still needa get the camshaft specs from him tho. when i compression tested it it was ~225PSI across the board. beats the 180PSI stock
at a pinch, a good exhaust place could mod them so that they stay as a 4-2-1 and not loose any primary length. stack the collectors on top of each other or similar
lack of moneys wont see that happening for a while. I need to put a better rear muffler on and road tune it for the dyno day coming up soon.
Took the car for its Warrant of Fitness check this morning. I was expecting it to fail on a whole pile of known faults but it didnt fail on any of them.
They failed:
- Improve LR handbrake operation
- Cut in RR Seatbelt
- L/R Brake backing plate damaged
The faults i know of that they didnt find:
- Front fog lights not operational
- Windscreen washer squirters dont work
- Play in RH Upper Balljoint
- High stop light not working
So i have a few jobs to do this weekend
relatively minor things tho eh.
yep all small tiny things. ill fix them all this weekend and recheck next week so i can be legal to go to the "dyno day"
Failed for a damaged brake backing plate? Which one, the dust shield?!
that must be what they mean
Thats gay. They probably would fail mine right away seeing how its been hacked to fit a bigger disk on..
some people are lucky to not have to get their cars checked every 6 months. spensive stuff!
ill post some pics of my OBD1 swap tomorrow
Since mine is a classic now, all I have to have is horn, lights, and it has to brake lol.
lucky.
my dizzy cap didnt turn up so no pics of the obd1 swap. but today i set my tappet and now the engine sounds liek it has cams again. wootage. tune time
Tonight i was annoyed at how the datalogging in CROME said the coolant temperature was 66 Degree's C while open road cruising in the daytime. was a new thermostat not so long ago too. Tonight i finally installed my genuine Honda thermostat that i paid for 6 months ago. its 1.8 degree's C outside tonight and the temp didnt drop below 80. thats how a thermostat is supposed to work!
Heres a pic of the two thermostats. Genuine on the left tridon on the right:
and a few pics of my OBD1 swap in the engine bay. No pics of what i did under the seat as its bolted back in. basically i lopped off the OBD0 plugs and soldered OBD1 plugs from an EG civic straight on.
Engine bay shot.
Map sensor wiring on firewall extended to reach the thottlebody. These cars usually have a black box with a million vacuum lines coming out. Inside the black wire is also the wires for the climate control heater tap actuator.
B20B Dizzy. i havent installed the cam cap yet so the top bolt doesnt line up.
The B20B districtutor is rocking a brand new EDM BB2 prelude cap with an external coil input. This way i can throw away the unreliable coil and ignitor inside the dizzy and use my factory items
Last edited by AccordB20A; 06-23-2013 at 03:47 AM.
So your running a CRV distributor? Or is it from a prelude?
orthia / CRV yeaH
this is worth more than the car. No more broken diff pins for me
Nice Aaron
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks