Godamn Balljoints!

[FyreDaug]

Ive tried everything to get this fucking thing out. I need to replace both shafts because they are both fucked, and I have to do brakes. I cant get the lower ball joint out on the driver side (let alone the stupid axle nut on the passenger side) so I can get the godamn axle out.

Ive tried a hammer on the bottom of the joint (3 guys), tried using a 2 jaw puller but we bent the turning thing because the joint doesnt move (2 guys) and I tried using a pickel fork against my own discretion because I didnt want to break open the ball joint boot. So I greased the fork before I put it in use so I wouldnt wreck the boot. Got the fork in there about half way, and Im beating the shit out of the end with a hammer and it doesnt go any further. I pull the fork out because its a useless piece of metal to find that the dark green grease is pushed back and there was some black grease on there so Im assuming the boot is fucked now.

What the hell else can we try? We tried using the pickel fork beside the ball joint to jam it in there and get some leverage, just ended up bending the fork. We tried a pry bar and a jack as the leverage, but that only raise the suspension up.

So I have less than 24 hours for this car to be back on the road and it cant be driven with the shafts like this, its way too bad and ive been driving it too long like this.

[nswst8]

It sounds like the ball joint is siezed in the knuckle seat.
At this point I would heat the knuckle joint with a propane torch and then saturate it with some PB Blast penetrating oil, then rapp it with a ballping hammer.

Sometimes you can rapp the knuckle with a ball ping hammer to unseat the balljoint, usually only takes me 1-3 good rapps to unseat the balljoint.

Good luck

[Vanilla Sky]

you're going to have to heat it up like phil said. by the way, boots aren't expensive. just use the pickle fork like usual even if it does fubar the boot. i think they are only like $3 at the parts store

[FyreDaug]

How do I replace the boot then?

This is gonna be alot of work for something that a non honda would only take me an hour to do. I'm starting to lose my liking to hondas for the diy people and I dont have a torch.

Arg godamn car.

[nswst8]

Dude, I don't understand your fustration except that you are in the northern Snow country, "RUST"

But when you poop out the balljoint from the Knuckle seat the boot is easily replaced.

Honda's are just as easy to work on as anything else.

If the balljoint has not been replaced I would use this time to replace it.

[Moodybluesr]

Tie rod end puller, like I stated in your previous thread; the two-jaw pullers are too flimsy for this job.

Another trick I used at the junkyard one time was taking the castle nut off the ball joint, placing a jack under the ball joint and cranking up the suspension with all the pressure on the threaded part of the joint. Then I just stepped down hard on the rotor/spindle until I heard the thing pop out.

[AccordEpicenter]

hit the side of the control arm where the balljoint fits in, hit it hard with a 5lb hammer until it loosens up.

[FyreDaug]

Well fuck it.

I tried hitting the control arm, dented it good, didnt do shit. I dont have a tie rod end puller and I tried using a jack under the balljoint (again)

So today I got nothing accomplished in about 4 hours of working, except now I have to replace both balljoints because the boots on them are fucked, and no one in town even knows what im talking about when I ask for a rubber lower ball joint boot. I called honda and they said 15 something but I have to wait until next tuesday to get them.

So for the first time EVER I'm taking my car into the shop to get this done. I'm pissed I have to pay 110/side for each ball joint because if I cant even get the damn thing out of the control arm, theres no way im gonna be taking the ball joint itself out.

So far, negative points at honda for their fucked up design in suspension. Not bashing honda, I still love the car but its a pain in the ass, as a first time honda owner and a DIY person I donno if my next would be a honda.

[Vanilla Sky]

hmm, fly me up. much cheaper than that.

[nswst8]

But the only thing that I can say is that the balljoints are seized in the seat of the knuckle.

When there are like that I saturate them in penetrating oil, use the torch wrench on them saturate them again and rapp them with the heavy ballping hammer.

The shop is going to do the same thing,

Balljoint tool
Pickle fork with air hammer
or as we just explained.

[FyreDaug]

I dont have a torch, nor a car to get to the auto shop now. Im still piecing it back together to drive it to the shop

[89AccordLX2dr]

Pickle Fork worked for me, pullers don't work so don't even bother. Hammer or Fork, sometimes swearing and throwing stuff helps too

[AccordEpicenter]

air hammers work good too, if you have air that is.

[cke]

Dude, torches are about as expensive as a pack of smokes in New York. ($9 or so.)

It's a great tool to have around. Seriously.

[89AccordLX2dr]

... and you can use them to light your smoke too!

[b8er]

i just took 2 5 pound sledge hammers and used both of them at the same time (one in each hand) and bashed the metal that is around the bal joints a good 5-6 times then smashed down on the top of the ball joint and out it came.

[AccordEpicenter]

dont hit the end of the ball joint where its threaded unless you are replacing it, it always messes up the end bad. Im surprised anything came out with a 2.5lb hammer. You need to go straight for the 5lb BFH

[Rendon LX-i]

One thing good about it. Is once u pop the ball joint out and if u need to replace your shaft again it well be easyer to take out since the fact its been loosen before. mine was the same and when i had to change my axle i just used a crowbar and it just poped out.

[Blkblurr]

If you would have used a tie rod end puller, it would have taken it out on the first try. There is nothing better to use than that. They are available at most auto stores and tool stores and they cost $9. I have never failed using one of these. They are made specifically for situations like yours. They apply more pressure than any other tool. You can tighen them down and if the ball joint doesn't pop for some reason, just leave it on there and over a few minutes it will pop off. tie rod pullers are solid and won't slip off the threads of the ball joint. Put the nut back on the threads to help hold the tie rod puller in place. Also the tip of the puller has a point on it and you don't want that tip to press into the ball joint threads.

[FyreDaug]

Well I am taking it to the shop in about an hour, I smashed the shit out the bottoms of the threads too bad and I cant get the castle nut back on. Luckily they are stuck really hard and the shop is 10-15blocks away. Maybe I can give the guy a couple buck in his pocket to pull out the axles and put my new ones in while hes there. Since 95% of the work to do them will already be done he might even do it for free, since he knows a good friend of mine (who recommended this guy)

[Moodybluesr]

If you would have used a tie rod end puller, it would have taken it out on the first try. There is nothing better to use than that. They are available at most auto stores and tool stores and they cost $9. I have never failed using one of these. They are made specifically for situations like yours. They apply more pressure than any other tool. You can tighen them down and if the ball joint doesn't pop for some reason, just leave it on there and over a few minutes it will pop off. tie rod pullers are solid and won't slip off the threads of the ball joint. Put the nut back on the threads to help hold the tie rod puller in place. Also the tip of the puller has a point on it and you don't want that tip to press into the ball joint threads.

[Doward]

How about the ball joint press that Autozone rents out?

[Blkblurr]

Well I am taking it to the shop in about an hour, I smashed the shit out the bottoms of the threads too bad and I cant get the castle nut back on. Luckily they are stuck really hard and the shop is 10-15blocks away. Maybe I can give the guy a couple buck in his pocket to pull out the axles and put my new ones in while hes there. Since 95% of the work to do them will already be done he might even do it for free, since he knows a good friend of mine (who recommended this guy)

It would take him about 3 minutes if hes slow to put in those axles when he has it all apart. You will have to drain the trans fluid though. Might want to take some Honda trans fluid with you.