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Thread: Engine mount replacement?

  1. #1
    DX User huntz0r's Avatar
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    Dec 2009
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    84 Accord hatch
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    Charlotte, NC
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    Engine mount replacement?

    Ever since I got it, my '84 has done this thing where when you let the clutch out and don't do it just so, the dashboard shakes violently as though it's going to fly off the firewall into your lap. And also, the body of the car vibrates (though somewhat less violently) sitting at idle in neutral. I came to realize at some point that this wasn't normal behavior, and then that it must be a problem with the engine mounts.

    I bought the new front and rear mounts, the dogbone, and the transmission damper from Rock Auto. The one I can't find anywhere, however, is the one on the driver's side at the front, i.e. the crank pully side, of the engine. Oh well I figured, two out of three ain't bad right? Yesterday, while trying unsuccessfully to figure out how to get loose and replace the mounts I do have, I noticed that the only thing that moved while jacking the engine was that one drivers-side mount... and boy, does it ever move. The rubber is so far gone that it's pretty much free to move up and down as it pleases, which would explain my vibration problem, since the engine mount bracket is basically whacking the unibody repeatedly at high speed.

    So here's my problem... I can't find anywhere, I mean anywhere, that stocks this part. I don't have the first clue how to make my own replacement out of polyurethane or whatever.

    As a side issue, as mentioned, I cannot figure out how the hell to get the other mounts loose anyway, but as for the driver's side mount it looks like the engine will have to be hoisted up and away to get that out, because of how the mount sits up inside the unibody. Without a hoist, I can't even think about pulling the mount off and trying to see how one might reverse-engineer the rubber dampers.

    Anybody dealt with these engine mounts and have ideas, tips, that might be helpful? Am I gonna have to go solid or figure out how to make one and then beg a shop to put it in? This sucks.



  2. #2

    Dr_Snooz's Avatar
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    Re: Engine mount replacement?

    It's been a long time since I worked on one of those, but I think you can wiggle the mount out with some persistance. Be sure to support the engine before loosening it though. If it isn't too far gone, you can try filling it with polyurethane to repair it (Homemade Motor Mounts). That should get you sorted out.

    If you still get a lot of clutch chatter, start thinking about the condition of the flywheel and clutch plates.
    Dr_Snooz

    "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis


    1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 220k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap

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  3. #3
    LX User 2geeSEi's Avatar
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    Re: Engine mount replacement?

    I just looked at mine, and I'm not sure that you can get that one out with the engine in the bay. Usually, when you do the timing belt, you just unbolt it and push it back into the tower, but that won't help if you need to replace the rubber.

  4. #4

    Dr_Snooz's Avatar
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    Re: Engine mount replacement?

    If you jack up the engine, will that give enough room to get it out?
    Dr_Snooz

    "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis


    1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 220k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap

    Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW

  5. #5
    LX User 2geeSEi's Avatar
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    Re: Engine mount replacement?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz View Post
    If you jack up the engine, will that give enough room to get it out?
    It seems like it would run into the block. Maybe with the timing belt covers off though there may be a way to maneuver it out.

  6. #6

    2ndGenGuy's Avatar
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    Re: Engine mount replacement?

    Yeah, I was just dealing with this a few weeks ago while putting an ET2 in my 84. That mount won't come out without pulling the engine I'm pretty sure. Pretty stupid design, IMO. Whenever I get around to getting the B20A back in there, I'm going to cut that bracket out and weld in the A20 one. It's such a pain in the ass, and I'm not sure what they were thinking. Honestly though, I'm not sure that's gonna fix your clutch chatter woes. Maybe you can jam something in there to keep the engine from moving, just to see if there's still vibration.

    I betcha if you got some of that urethane though, like Snooz was showing, you could fill in that mount. Put a cardboard ring underneath it and fill it up and let it dry.

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