Upper arm (rear suspension) and knuckle separated at joint; repair question

[derolph]

On my '88 LX-i, the upper arm and knuckle pulled apart at the joint yesterday as I was leaving a parking lot. I immediately recognized I could not drive the car because the wheel was tilted and rubbing against the coil spring.

The attached photo shows the separated joint. I wonder whether replacement of a bushing will fix this. The arm seems okay otherwise.

The car is sitting near a repair shop; I had it towed there yesterday. Tomorrow morning, I'll talk to the shop owner about this, but am interested in opinions here.

Edit: Can a moderator move this to the Technical section? I did not intend to post it in Accord Pics & Videos.

[Hauntd ca3]

new control arm is the only option. trying to repair that would be risking your own life and others

[derolph]

Thanks for the quick reply.

So, a new control arm will have the bolt on the outer end so that it can be connected to the knuckle, right? I found a control arm at Driveworks Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly 520-646: Purchase the best Control Arm w/Ball Joint - Lower at Advance Auto Parts (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/driveworks-control-arm-rear-upper-520-646/20514494-P?navigationPath=L1*14921%7CL2*15012%7CL3*15791) but it does not show a side view and I cannot tell for sure from the photo that it has a bolt for attachment to the knuckle. Assuming it does, then no other parts are needed, it seems. Do you agree?

[derolph]

A side view of the upper control arm should look like NAPA AUTO PARTS (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Control-Arm-Upper-Rear-Susp/_/R-NCP2605115_0396324051), I gather.

[Oldblueaccord]

On my '88 LX-i, the upper arm and knuckle pulled apart at the joint yesterday as I was leaving a parking lot. I immediately recognized I could not drive the car because the wheel was tilted and rubbing against the coil spring.

The attached photo shows the separated joint. I wonder whether replacement of a bushing will fix this. The arm seems okay otherwise.

The car is sitting near a repair shop; I had it towed there yesterday. Tomorrow morning, I'll talk to the shop owner about this, but am interested in opinions here.

Edit: Can a moderator move this to the Technical section? I did not intend to post it in Accord Pics & Videos.

Its just 2 bolts that bolt it to the frame/body of the car. You can do it your self. Taking the tire off will take more time. I would do both sides. the stock ones are non grease able and last about 2 years before they develop slop.

http://www.3geez.com/forum/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes/65015-my-rear-upper-link-experiment-comes-end.html

[derolph]

Its just 2 bolts that bolt it to the frame/body of the car. You can do it your self. Taking the tire off will take more time. I would do both sides. the stock ones are non grease able and last about 2 years before they develop slop. Thanks for confirming what I was thinking about it being a fairly easy DIY task. I had the car towed to a parking lot near a repair shop I am familiar with, thinking I would have them do it. Since the car is there, I might go ahead with having them do it. However, I could take some tools over there and probably do it there in the parking lot. I'd do this in the evening after the shop closes; I'd feel uncomfortable working on a car while the shop is open. The parking area is not just for the repair shop, it's really a general public parking area and the two truck driver left my car some distance (roughly 75 ft.) from the shop because other parked vehicles prevented him from leaving it closer to the shop.

I agree that both sides should be done and I think I will also replace the right/other one soon.

Regarding the installation, how tight should the nut that fastens the control arm to the knuckle be tightened? Is a washer or bushing supposed to be placed on the end of that bolt before putting the nut on?

And, by the way, I have not seen any control arms with grease fittings. And, I have ordered one without a grease fitting from NAPA.

[derolph]

I believe I found pertinent torque settings in my Haynes manual (pg. 10-2). It says 28 ft-lbs for "upper arm-to-body bolts" and 32 ft-lbs for "upper arm balljoint stud nut".

When I remove the old cotter pin and nut, that should give me a clue to my question about washer or bushing being placed on the end of that bolt before putting the nut on.

[Oldblueaccord]

6243

I did my own. Drilled a small hole and thread a zerk in.

[derolph]

Well, I delved into this today. I removed the wheel and removed the old control arm, which was easy. But, I am having trouble getting the old ball joint bolt out of the knuckle. I removed the cotter pin and nut but, due to rust, I have not yet been able to break that ball joint bolt free of the knuckle. I have hammered on it, on the threaded end of the bolt and on the ball end, but it has not broken free. I have sprayed some PB Blaster on it.

I have a torch and could heat it. That might be worth a try. Any suggestions?

[derolph]

It's done. I got some help with someone with a bigger hammer. It did the job.

I was wondering whether any lubrication should be put on the ball-joint-side surface of the knuckle, between it and the rubber boot on the ball joint.