honda prelude dirt track car

[mikal34chez]

Hey everyone,
I have a (i think) 90 prelude 4ws with a a20a3 engine in it but i believe it has the a18a head with dual carburetors, bought it that way and i havent even tried tinker with it except for the fueling. I want to know what kind of performance/ benifits/ tips i could recieve from everyone here. I would love to do an engine swap (as everyone else out there runs 94 eclipses and 94 preludes that have efi and chips) but simply i want to try to out run the mods they have with a n/a build. The rules behind the build though are max compresion 180lb hot off the track, no vtec, no awd, stock steel flywheel no mods to it, no turbo/ supercharger, no alcohol fuel, we could lock the differential, and change gear ratio and do anything that is not listed above lol. I think the track is a 1/4 or 1/8 mile circle dirt track. If some of you that have done a build or have any tips let me know i would greatly appreciate it, ill post pics of the car as soon as i get them off my phone. Thanks!

[scania360]

Welcome... i am also new here...
Waiting your pics...:)

[89T]

Swap in a complete intake, wiring harness from a b18a (ls integra) with all sensors. You will need a a20a3 exhaust manifold with the o2 sensor bungs. Also get a d16 distributer. you can modify it to work on your head. Dont forget thw ecu from the integra. Next would be engine management. Crome, hondata, or Neptune.

It's not as easy as it sounds but all the info is on the board.

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[Vanilla Sky]

Post the rule book, I'll find the exploits.

3rd gen Preludes never came with carbs in the US, and they all came with a B series "bastard B" engine. 4WS only came on 3rd gen and 4th gen cars, IIRC.

[2oodoor]

Post the rule book, I'll find the exploits.

3rd gen Preludes never came with carbs in the US, and they all came with a B series "bastard B" engine. 4WS only came on 3rd gen and 4th gen cars, IIRC.
B20a3 was carbed, I just learned this myself recently, allegedly is sohc as well! It came in prelude S, im not sure about distribution sales.

[mikal34chez]

Mini stock rules 2014

Definition
The work “STOCK” will mean unaltered and as originally factory produced and installed for year, make and model.

Competing Models
1994 or older American or Foreign cars, 2-door or 4-door. Front engine cars only.
NO vans, convertibles, Jeeps, mid-engine, rear engine, two seat sport or exotic models (i.e. MR2, Porsche, VW, Etc.) allowed. CRX & similar models subject to official’s approval.
Maximum wheelbase~ 108”. No bolt on tops allowed. No fiberglass or kit cars.
Four (4) cylinder engines only. No 4-Wheel drive. Dual overhead cams, ok. Skid plates are allowed. NO all-wheel drive.
Pickup trucks OK, but must conform to all Mini Stock mechanical rules.
Must be a mini truck. 6’ bed max; tail gate required: metal cover over the bed required; and fuel tank must be filled from inside bed.

Weight
Every competing car must weigh at least one (1) pound for each cc of engine displacement, with a min. weight of 2300 lbs. for Rear Wheel drive cars and 2400 lbs. for Front Wheel drive cars. Added weight must be block shaped, painted white and have the car number on the weight. Weight must be fastened inside body panels to frame or roll cage.
Engine displacement in cc’s must be lettered on the front fender near the windshield post

Engine
Front Wheel Drive cars must have stock factory engine and components. O.E.M. parts ONLY.
No engine interchanges between makes of cars. No rotary engines allowed.
Stock factory carburetors ONLY. No racing equipment of any kind. Fuel injection OK, if O.E.M. equipped. No modification of any kind to either carburetor or fuel injection system. Aftermarket Air Cleaner lids allowed.
Rear Wheel Drive Cars. No engine interchanges between makes of cars. NO rotary engines allowed. Fuel injection ok, if O.E.M. equipped. May use a Holley Carburetor up to and including a 500 cfm. May remove choke plate only. Nothing else may be altered on Carburetor.
Factory delivered fuel systems only.
Stock steel flywheel. No aluminum, cutting or special racing type flywheels allowed.
Engines must be in the stock position.
Front Wheel Drive cars to have O.E.M. intake and exhaust manifolds only.
Rear Wheel Drive cars to have O.E.M. intake and may have an aftermarket header installed.
Mufflers and tail pipes mandatory, with a rating of 95 decibels at 100’.
Cranking compression, hot off of the track 180lbs.
No Turbo or Super Chargers Allowed
No Alcohol Fuel Allowed

Bodies
Must be complete and stock, including bumpers and all sheet metal. Cars must remain stock in appearance. Dents should be straightened for a clean appearance. Stock steel roof mandatory,
No bolt-on.
Inner body panels may be cut out.
Grill may be replaced with wire screen.
Removal of all plastic and upholstery required
All doors must be welded shut or riveted shut.
No external reinforcing bars.
Factory body components only. Stock appearing nose pieces allowed.
No car will be allowed to run without hood in place.
Hoods and truck lids may be outer skin.
22 Gauge metal appearing to be OEM may be allowed for body panel replacement

Firewalls
Rear Firewall: A metal rear firewall, built with min. (1/32) thickness steel or (1/8) inch aluminum. Must be securely installed and completely closed off the truck compartment. All holes to be sealed.
Front Firewall: All holes in engine firewall must be covered with same Spec. metal as rear firewall and securely fastened.
Front Firewall must be in stock location.

Frame
Stock. No alterations.
Reasonable front frame or radiator protection OK. Must be concealed.

Bumpers
Bumpers must be welded or bolted to frame horns and to frame. Bumper straps required front and rear. NO Exceptions. Max. Size 2”X8”X1/8” affixed from bumper to quarter panel.
Warning. Cars losing REAR bumpers will be black flagged for the remainder of the race.

Roll Bars
FOUR-POINT ROLL BAR REQUIRED…. Four-point “cage type” roll bars shall be a minimum of 1 ¼” .095 wall, 1 ¾” OK tubing. Base of upright members shall be solidly electric welded to frame rails of car. Cage shall be braced to rear frame kick ups and diagonally side to side between front and rear cage uprights on driver’s side, overlapping outside of upright bars. These may be connected vertically as well. Inside door panel may be removed to accommodate side bars. A center overhead bar is required, running fore and aft between transverse members connecting uprights. Gussets must be used at joints of all principal members.

Transmissions
Must be stock.
Drive lines must have safety straps at front and rear of drive shaft made of metal straps of 3/16” by 1” Min. size.

Drive Axle
Must be stock. Make of vehicle. No floaters or quick change.
Locked up Differential’s OK. May be locked up by welding of spider gears or min spool.
Gear ratio optional.

Suspension
Aftermarket steel stock mounted Non Adjustable, Non Rebuildable shocks OK.
No cutting, heating or modifying of components.
No relocating of suspension parts. OEM location only.
No adjustable suspension parts.
No weight jacks. No coil overs allowed.


Steering
Steering quickeners allowed.

Brakes
Factory stock. Hydraulic on all four wheels if original specs provided for hydraulic. Disc if specs provided for disc. No brake shut off valves permitted.

Wheels
Front Wheel Drive: Steel wheels not to exceed 7” wide.
Rear Wheel Drive: Steel wheels not to exceed 8” wide
No oversized wheels which have an increased circumference of the bead flange.
14” wheels OK for use on cars that had 13” wheal OEM
OEM factory aluminum wheels ok.
All four wheels to be same back spacing and width.

Tires
Front Wheel Drive: Maximum 7” tread width
Rear Wheel Drive: Maximum 8” tread width
No grooving or shaving of any kind.
Must be street legal DOT approved tires.
All four tires to be the same size.
No aggressive tread patterns. All tires subject to approval.
No racing tires.
ALL tire pressures must be minimum of 15 lbs

Radiator
Only one (1) radiator.
Must mount in stock position.
No fill holes cut in hood; hood must close in stock position.

Electrical
Any 12 volt battery permitted. Battery must be moved to inside of vehicle, must be fully enclosed if in driver’s compartment, and must be securely fastened to floor or roll cage.
Ignition to remain stock. No MSD components or equal allowed.
Kill switch must be labeled and visible and easily reached from both sides of car.
Electric fuel pump shut off must be wired through an oil pressure switch. Loss of oil pressure will disconnect power or ground circuit to fuel pump.

Fuel Cell
Approved fuel cells mandatory. Completely enclosed in minimum 18 gauge metal box. Fuel cell mounting will be at discretion of Tech. inspector.

Seats
Racing seat mandatory. No Fiberglass.

Glass
Removal of all glass mandatory. Approved protective screen across windshield opening, optional. Windshield bars protecting driver, MANDATORY.

[mikal34chez]

I know it has a a20a3 in it and it has the double carbs. Im not sure what exact year it is just that it has 4ws, a20a3 that is carb injected and a manual tranny.
@89t i would do all that and make it efi but i want to be able to beat them the way it is pure carb management.

[Vanilla Sky]

Gut the hood and trunk lid. If you haven't already, replace your brake lines and all runner safety parts, plus new pads and rotors.

What's wheel bolt pattern you're working with? There's a sub-10 pound Miata stock wheel that might do you well.

Run a lawn tractor battery. $30 and they weigh nothing. I can start my car on a 20wh backup power supply battery that weighs 2 pounds.

Tokico Blues and most KYB shocks are both acceptable in the rule book, because they can't be rebuilt, and they are steel bodied.

Aim for a lower than minimum weight, and add ballast. That allows you to move weight around in the car and can provide a handling advantage since you can't run an adjustable suspension of any kind.

"Stock appearing nose pieces" leads me to believe that a fiberglass front shell may be legal.

Add the skid plates allowed, too. Not much to add, but they provide extra protection in case you have an off-track event.

I'm a rulebook exploiter. Budget classes typically leave a lot open, but you're pretty limited on what you can do, and I can see that's due to running costs.

Check the rule on tires, too. Some tires do better than others. Nothing says you can't run snows, which might give you a traction advantage for the loose stuff.

There's probably a bajillion things I'm forgetting, but that should get you started.

Another question I have is about same make swaps? Can you install another Honda engine and use OEM equipment to make it run?

[89T]

What about hyd. Hand break for the rears? It may help maintain a higher speed in the corners. Next would be camber kits and wheel spacers. The rule states the wheels have to have the same backspace but it doesn't say anything about spacing them out.
The camber kit will help you adjust for corners.
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[mikal34chez]

I have gutted to trunk and hood already, i have weight ballasts in the car already, i this there is 2 20lb lead weights in the back seat driver side, and another 2 in the trunk on the pasdenger side. And i believe same make swap meens i can take a engine from a prelude older then 94 and swap it into the car. Also for the tires i think they said snow tires are an over aggressive pattern and are not allowed do to that. Suspension i have adjustable springs and have them set up the perfect way for cornering. And as for engine wise i could do anything to it as long as i dont go above 180lbs hot off the track. One question i have regarding that is what can i do engine wise to make it not go above that? And how can i increase mid range power? What would a dohc engine provide, it seems everyone runs them and are always out in front.

[mikal34chez]

I have the hand brake cables but not leaver to activate it. And as for a camber kit, would installing it make the car "hook" more into the corners or helps steer into and out of it better? Sorry im kinda a noob in suspension set up and these honda engines. I know in our monte carlo dirt track car we have the suspension down for it, and in our chevelle we bought, it has a huge negative camber and some other suspension work in it that we have not explored into, and it seems to hook into the corners and just turns for it self. Would applying a negative camber in my prelude do the same?

[89T]

Cam, adjustable cam gear , ram air, carbs or a holley carb if allowed. 2.5 inch exhaust. Fuel injected cars have shorter trans gears.

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[mikal34chez]

Where can i get a cam from? I cant find anywhere that offer them for the a18. I would love to get rid of these carbs and put a single holley on it but i dont even know where to get a manifold for one at. I need to open up the exhaust more as welded up a 3 sieres flowmaster on it so it would be legal (it had nothing on it) it was beyond loud.

[89T]

I have the hand brake cables but not leaver to activate it. And as for a camber kit, would installing it make the car "hook" more into the corners or helps steer into and out of it better? Sorry im kinda a noob in suspension set up and these honda engines. I know in our monte carlo dirt track car we have the suspension down for it, and in our chevelle we bought, it has a huge negative camber and some other suspension work in it that we have not explored into, and it seems to hook into the corners and just turns for it self. Would applying a negative camber in my prelude do the same?

That's exactly why suggested the camber kit. It's all about the contact patch. Negitive on the right and slight positive on the left. You lose most of your speed on the corners. Sorry the pic is sideways but this is ahyd hand break. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/ytemy3u9.jpg

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[89T]

http://www.cncbrakes.com/hsb.asp?grp=hsb&subgrp=all&series=412&subseries=

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[89T]

You can get allot of good ideas from www.speedwaymotors.com

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[knifemind]

I know it has a a20a3 in it and it has the double carbs. Im not sure what exact year it is just that it has 4ws, a20a3 that is carb injected and a manual tranny.
@89t i would do all that and make it efi but i want to be able to beat them the way it is pure carb management.

Not to be negative, but you are either wrong about the engine, the year, or the 4WS. A series motors never existed in 3rd gen Prelude (88-91). Yes, the B20a3 was in fact a SOHC dual carb available in 88-90. There's no such thing as an A20xx dual carb unless someone swapped an A18 head onto an A20, which would mean your car is a 2nd gen (83-87) and cannot have 4WS. Some pictures would help. Again, not trying to be rude, but nobody can really offer any specifics until we know exactly what you have.
Simple test..is your alternator on the intake or exhaust side?
If it's on the exhaust side, it's a B20a3, and I'd recommend you make a thread in the 3rd gen section at PreludePower.com.

If it is a B20, you could swap B20a5 DOHC head. Nobody makes manifolds, it would have to be custom.

Edit: based on your interior pic, this is definitely a 3rd gen, and is surely a B20a3.

[mikal34chez]

It is an a20a3 block with a a18 head dual carb set up. My car does have the 4ws it has an older engine swap inside it which make it possible to have the a20a3 and the 4ws. Ill post pictures of the car after i get them off my phone.

[gfrg88]

Not to be negative, but you are either wrong about the engine, the year, or the 4WS. A series motors never existed in 3rd gen Prelude (88-91). Yes, the B20a3 was in fact a SOHC dual carb available in 88-90. There's no such thing as an A20xx dual carb unless someone swapped an A18 head onto an A20, which would mean your car is a 2nd gen (83-87) and cannot have 4WS. Some pictures would help. Again, not trying to be rude, but nobody can really offer any specifics until we know exactly what you have.
Simple test..is your alternator on the intake or exhaust side?
If it's on the exhaust side, it's a B20a3, and I'd recommend you make a thread in the 3rd gen section at PreludePower.com.

If it is a B20, you could swap B20a5 DOHC head. Nobody makes manifolds, it would have to be custom.

Edit: based on your interior pic, this is definitely a 3rd gen, and is surely a B20a3.


Exactly. I want to see pics of the car and/or engine... I will chop my right nut off it isn't a 3rd gen lude with b20a3! :eatarrow:

[mikal34chez]

i have the pics off my phone just trying to figure out how to post them, ill have to go out to my grandparents house to take more pictures of it and the motor or i will once i get my axles in and bring it to my house.

[89T]

Photobucket

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[Vanilla Sky]

Yeah, I'm not surprised to see it have an A series, but it's not going to have mounts that I would consider legal with that rule set. If you do have a 2nd gen, there are a lot of update and backdate things that are shared between the 2nd generation Prelude and the 3rd generation Accords that will pass tech every time.

[mikal34chez]

Photobucket

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Thanks completely forgot about that place!

[Vanilla Sky]

I think that puts it back up to 4 or so users, including myself. Most people I know use imgur.

[mikal34chez]

Library Slideshow by mikal34chez | Photobucket (http://s420.photobucket.com/user/mikal34chez/slideshow/)

[89T]

What cage did you use?

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[mikal34chez]

as you can see i did crash it lol, someone didn't like that i was passing them and performed the pit maneuver on me and i slid into the wall coming out of turn 4. i know they arent the best pics but like i said i will try to get better ones soon.

[mikal34chez]

What cage did you use?

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I believe it was built with 1 1/2" .095, 4 point cage, i cannot remember if it was 1 1/2 " or 1 3/4" all i know is it is made to take a hit and not hurt me.

[Vanilla Sky]

Get clarification on the "engine in stock position" rule. Why not just stick an H23 in there if it's within the rule book? It's non-VTEC.

[mikal34chez]

Get clarification on the "engine in stock position" rule. Why not just stick an H23 in there if it's within the rule book? It's non-VTEC.

See thats why i want to ask these questions cause im a compelet noob to hondas. And as of right now i only see h23 for 1000 bucks everwhere i look, right now im working with what i have until i could afford a engine swap.

[knifemind]

Wow...ok, that definitely looks like an A20 swapped into a 3rd gen. Looks like someone owes you a testicle. But seriously....Who would waste the effort to do that swap? I understand "using what you have on hand," but why would someone go through the effort to swap a motor with less or equal power? Would have made more sense to find a B20a5 and have the 20-30ish extra hp.


You can get a cam regrind from Delta for low $. I had mine done for about $70 2 years ago.

EDIT: Many track rules specify an engine must be from the same time period (i.e. a '90 car cannot have motor newer than what was available in '90), so a newer H would be illegal. If your track does not specify this then a swap would def be ideal.

[Vanilla Sky]

What you have isn't a bad motor, but it's not going to give you as much power low down as a smaller displacement N/A engine.

Delta Camshaft (http://deltacam.com/camshaftgrinding.php) for cams.

[Vanilla Sky]

It's called a welder. That's how you see swaps like this. Can't find the right motor? Swap in something close.

[mikal34chez]

Wow...ok, that definitely looks like an A20 swapped into a 3rd gen. Looks like someone owes you a testicle. But seriously....Who would waste the effort to do that swap? I understand "using what you have on hand," but why would someone go through the effort to swap a motor with less or equal power? Would have made more sense to find a B20a5 and have the 20-30ish extra hp.


You can get a cam regrind from Delta for low $. I had mine done for about $70 2 years ago.

Im not sure why, i bought the car that way so untill i can win some races and get money to buy an engine swap (then get more tips from you awesome people!) Im stumped with this. I do have a question regarding the hyd hand brake, pretty much i would use that and drift through the turn to keep my momentum and power going or how would it benifit me? And is there a website for delta?

[Vanilla Sky]

I posted the link for Delta.

You will always be faster if you can apply power for a longer period of time. Some do it by adding a hand brake to the rear, but I prefer to set the suspension up right.

I'm not a dirt tracker, though.

[89T]

You can stay on the throttle abit more and even throw the rear around like a drift car.

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[knifemind]

Look into your rules more about newer motors....see my edit above. A newer motor is the best bet for power, but I agree the A20 is not a bad motor (but of course I agree....this is 3geez).


We had a dirt racer awhile back on preludepower's 2g forum ...I';ll look up the threads after work and link them for you... you may be able to get some good info there

[Vanilla Sky]

Well, you drive a FWD car completely differently than a RWD, especially in low traction conditions. Set the car up to oversteer, and reduce the size of the front sway bar as much as possible.

[mikal34chez]

What you have isn't a bad motor, but it's not going to give you as much power low down as a smaller displacement N/A engine.

Delta Camshaft (http://deltacam.com/camshaftgrinding.php) for cams.

Thank you for the site, ill message them and find out. Will they suggest a cam for me or do i need to tell them the int. And ext. ? Should i try to find forged pistons, rods, new bearings? Or leave the bottem end alone and focus on the head? Also if anyone that has a h23 that is willing to give up for free im sitting right here taking any donations :lol:.

If i do find a h23, do i need to get another manual tranny and new hubs suspension etc?

[Vanilla Sky]

There are still a few things that make me iffy about the legality of that car. It mentions that the car requires stock axles. I'm not sure the car you have has them right now.

An H23 would require different axles, as well as moved engine mounts.

Of course, you don't really get hit hard in tech until you start winning.

[mikal34chez]

Would removing the front sway bar cause it to have too much oversteer?

[Vanilla Sky]

And yeah, you'd need the transmission, too.

[mikal34chez]

There are still a few things that make me iffy about the legality of that car. It mentions that the car requires stock axles. I'm not sure the car you have has them right now.

An H23 would require different axles, as well as moved engine mounts.

Of course, you don't really get hit hard in tech until you start winning.

I know that ot may seem not legal but when i had it teched before they said it was all legal.

[Vanilla Sky]

Adding front bar increases understeer. Removing it completely allows both front wheels to move independently, which may or may not increase front traction.

[mikal34chez]

H23a1 woul be legal cause its not newer then 1994 ( came in the 4th gen starting in 92 for the si model) now if only i could find a engine that didnt cost a arm and a leg i would be happy. Even if i could find one that needs a rebuild for cheap.

If i get a delta cam do i need to tell them what intake and exhaust i need on it or will they make one thats perfect for the car? And would it increase the.power for mid range? Anyone know where to get a cam gear for it? Also what do they do? What other head work can i do?

[Vanilla Sky]

They're probably going to sell you on something with a similar profile to what we have for our cars. The 272 is what I'm installing in my A20 3gee. I'm aiming to put 160HP to the wheels through headwork, exhaust work, a different intake manifold, and Megasquirt. The head will gain a good deal of power. Look up posts made by a member that goes by the handle "rjudgey" on here and check out his builds. He uses A20 blocks with A18 heads and races them.

[mikal34chez]

Thanks! You all have gave me so much info in the past 24 hours where everywhere else took weeks to months and gave me crap!

[knifemind]

OK, his name is Stangrcr1. Do an anvanced search at prelude power for threads started by him if this link doesnt work.. Honda Prelude Forum : Honda Prelude Forums (http://www.preludepower.com/forums/search.php?searchid=3110586)
You will probably get some good info if you read through all of it.

As for delta cams, you have to either call them or email them to order, then send out your cam. Vanilla sky is right, the 272 is a common grind from them... I ran it for several years in my Accord and was very pleased. Just tell them what motor you have and the sales person should be able to guide you.
Stangrcr1 also did the 1st gen integra gear swap which may be worth looking into. Surely your best real world gains will come from come from adjusting gearing and power band to match your track.

[2oodoor]

Wow...ok, that definitely looks like an A20 swapped into a 3rd gen. Looks like someone owes you a testicle. But seriously....Who would waste the effort to do that swap? I understand "using what you have on hand," but why would someone go through the effort to swap a motor with less or equal power? Would have made more sense to find a B20a5 and have the 20-30ish ext a cam regrind from Delta for low $. I had mine done for about $70 2 years ago.

EDIT: Many track rules specify an engine must be from the same time period (i.e. a '90 car cannot have motor newer than what was available in '90), so a newer H would be illegal. If your track does not specify this then a swap would def be ideal.

I feel a little better Im not the only one but my mind is still blown that I never knew this motor existed. Ive done a lot of reading and junkyarding over the years and can't recall this usdm B20a3 sohc carbed. Ive probably seen it but assumed it was a 1800cc A series and didn't pay attention to the rest of the car. Now it gets out right confusing and I have to see what transmissions it came and what if anything interchanges.

[Vanilla Sky]

I'm not sure he'd be able to get a JDM motor past tech, even if it were dual carbed. If that were possible, that's where I'd go, and I wouldn't bother with a manual transmission.

Yeah, Mr. only-has-one-automatic-transmission-and-it's-in-his-tractor wouldn't worry about finding a 5 speed JDM B series transmission.

[Vanilla Sky]

Wait, sorry, still delirious from sleeping for 18 hours. First day off from a manual labor job when you worked a desk job less than a week ago does that.

[mikal34chez]

Lol dont worry i understand that. My job is a firefighter and you should hear the things i say after im kept up all night on a sturcture fire or wildland fire. I have been looking into a h23 engine and so far i cant find any that are near by. But i just found out im getting my axles soon so ill be able to run it again. I also was going to get a camber kit and set up my suspension more. And also theres a race tonighy im going to talk to them about the headers and about the tires that would be an aggressive thread. I email delta cam and waiting for them, then i was looking at some stuff what i can do to my head amd im stumped lol.

[gfrg88]

Wow...ok, that definitely looks like an A20 swapped into a 3rd gen. Looks like someone owes you a testicle. But seriously....Who would waste the effort to do that swap? I understand "using what you have on hand," but why would someone go through the effort to swap a motor with less or equal power? Would have made more sense to find a B20a5 and have the 20-30ish extra hp.


You can get a cam regrind from Delta for low $. I had mine done for about $70 2 years ago.

EDIT: Many track rules specify an engine must be from the same time period (i.e. a '90 car cannot have motor newer than what was available in '90), so a newer H would be illegal. If your track does not specify this then a swap would def be ideal.

6263

[mikal34chez]

Hey everyone, so we got the car running and it os doing good but the last two races we broke the cv axle on the passenger side. I was told that the ones that arent from Honda directly will always break because they are a inch shorter. Or is it because the tires i had on it were to small and causing me to just spin the tires. Right now i thinm the tire on the pass is 195 60 14. And the one on the drivers is a 195 70 14. I have 3 205 70 14 tires i was going to throw on. But wanted to hear everyones input in the reason the cv axle keeps breaking.

[Vanilla Sky]

I'd check for binding and bad motor mounts first. Are the axles you're breaking now the new ones or remans? You might have to find a good rebuilder, or start building them yourself. Back when I was running one of my Accords down the Jeep trails, I would screw up even OEM axles. Eventually, I gave up on replacing them wholesale and started rebuilding them, and lo and behold, they lasted longer.

[mikal34chez]

I believe they are new. We got them from autozone. And i have a solid motor mount on the driver side, and the one on the back of the motor was broken but we welded it back together. And where could the binding be at any ideas? And i wanted to rebuild the first one i broke but i couldnt find the parts to rebuild it.

[Vanilla Sky]

I haven't really experienced binding at all with these cars. Even the lowered guys aren't having axle binding issues. It sounds like time to stock up on good used Honda axles. Perhaps the parts store parts were "spray paint rebuilds".

What broke with the rear motor mount? The steel riser? Just to rule it out, you might as well replace it with an unbroken one.

I forget where you're racing. I might have some parts sitting around to help you out.

[mikal34chez]

Yeah the steel riser that is in the back on the crossmember conecting to yhe engine. It broke dorectly in the middle of it. And we race in central California

[Dr_Snooz]

I'm in Central Cali. Where do you race?