replacement of A/C compressor

[derolph]

The A/C in my car has not worked for years now and I'd like to get it working since I anticipate driving this car more this summer than I have in recent summers. I've never done any work on an A/C system myself and I'm wondering whether I could remove the old unit and mount the new one, and then take it to a shop to do what should be done with a newly installed A/C compressor.

As I see this task, it would involve disconnecting two A/C lines from the compressor and removing two bolts to remove the compressor. Is this DIY approach to part of the entire process of getting a working A/C system sensible?

[nswst8]

You have to identify your compressor first Denso or Keihin, if you have a Denso then just swapping it out for another one is easy replace your receiver dryer and pull a vacuum then charge. If you have the Keihin then you will have to swap that to a denso this would require a trip to the junk yard to find a Denso bracket. There are a lot of write ups on this it is easier than you might think people just get spooked when it comes to A/C

[Dr_Snooz]

The potential for having a can of refrigerant explode in your hand would definitely spook me.

[derolph]

I've been searching for compressors and have found wide variation on prices. Most units I've seen sold by auto parts stores are $250+, even for remanufactured units. I can find reman units on ebay for much less and am tempted to use ebay as the source. One of the ones I found on ebay this: Visteon 000234 A/C Compressor W/Clutch 1986-1989 Honda Accord 2.0L SOHC (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Visteon-000234-A-C-Compressor-W-Clutch-1986-1989-Honda-Accord-2-0L-SOHC-/251110282296?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1988%7CMake%3AHonda%7CModel%3AAccord%7 CSubmodel%3ALXi%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.0L&hash=item3a7756d438&vxp=mtr), for $68.88, with free shipping. Another one on ebay: FOUR SEASONS 57350 REMAN A/C COMPRESSOR W/CLUTCH 1986-1989 VARIOUS HONDA ACCORD (http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-SEASONS-57350-REMAN-A-C-COMPRESSOR-W-CLUTCH-1986-1989-VARIOUS-HONDA-ACCORD/271525696640?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D7845692979291267641 %26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20131003132420%26rk%3D1%26 rkt%3D6%26sd%3D251110282296&rt=nc), for $75.97 and free shipping.

Of course, new ones can be found on ebay for attractive prices, too. Here's one: 1986 1987 1988 1989 HONDA ACCORD NEW AC COMPRESSOR 2.0L
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1987-1988-1989-HONDA-ACCORD-NEW-AC-COMPRESSOR-2-0L-/231265723164?_trksid=p2054897.l4275) for $190.63 and free shipping.

I'm still debating whether to ask a shop to do all the work or try installing the compressor and drier/accumulator myself and asking a shop to vacuum the system and add oil and refrigerant, and then check for leaks.

How the drier is mounted in the car is not clear to me; I see that it sits down in an opening on the side of the engine compartment but I don't know whether it can be removed from above or whether some underneath access is required.

[Oldblueaccord]

I've been searching for compressors and have found wide variation on prices. Most units I've seen sold by auto parts stores are $250+, even for remanufactured units. I can find reman units on ebay for much less and am tempted to use ebay as the source. One of the ones I found on ebay this: Visteon 000234 A/C Compressor W/Clutch 1986-1989 Honda Accord 2.0L SOHC (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Visteon-000234-A-C-Compressor-W-Clutch-1986-1989-Honda-Accord-2-0L-SOHC-/251110282296?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1988%7CMake%3AHonda%7CModel%3AAccord%7 CSubmodel%3ALXi%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.0L&hash=item3a7756d438&vxp=mtr), for $68.88, with free shipping. Another one on ebay: FOUR SEASONS 57350 REMAN A/C COMPRESSOR W/CLUTCH 1986-1989 VARIOUS HONDA ACCORD (http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-SEASONS-57350-REMAN-A-C-COMPRESSOR-W-CLUTCH-1986-1989-VARIOUS-HONDA-ACCORD/271525696640?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D7845692979291267641 %26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20131003132420%26rk%3D1%26 rkt%3D6%26sd%3D251110282296&rt=nc), for $75.97 and free shipping.

Of course, new ones can be found on ebay for attractive prices, too. Here's one: 1986 1987 1988 1989 HONDA ACCORD NEW AC COMPRESSOR 2.0L
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1987-1988-1989-HONDA-ACCORD-NEW-AC-COMPRESSOR-2-0L-/231265723164?_trksid=p2054897.l4275) for $190.63 and free shipping.

I'm still debating whether to ask a shop to do all the work or try installing the compressor and drier/accumulator myself and asking a shop to vacuum the system and add oil and refrigerant, and then check for leaks.

How the drier is mounted in the car is not clear to me; I see that it sits down in an opening on the side of the engine compartment but I don't know whether it can be removed from above or whether some underneath access is required.

I bought a new one from Rockauto.

I am in the middle of replacing mine as well. I take the power steering pump off the mount lay it up on the valve cover,left the high pressure attached removed the low pressure from the pump,remove the one cooling fan for some more room. you will need a 6mm allen wrench or socket to remove the manifold off the compressor. Only odd tool I can think off you will need.

I'll snap a few pictures see if that will help and search around for the rec. for what compressor i bought. I know it is a brand new Denso.

[derolph]

I bought a new one from Rockauto.

I am in the middle of replacing mine as well. I take the power steering pump off the mount lay it up on the valve cover,left the high pressure attached removed the low pressure from the pump,remove the one cooling fan for some more room. you will need a 6mm allen wrench or socket to remove the manifold off the compressor. Only odd tool I can think off you will need.

I'll snap a few pictures see if that will help and search around for the rec. for what compressor i bought. I know it is a brand new Denso.Thanks a bunch for that info. I found a Denso on rockauto.com which must be the one you bought; it's the only Denso I saw on their site for 3rd gen Accords. It's at https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2023150&cc=1166914 I see they sell several Four Seasons models; that's one of the brands I found on ebay (mentioned in my previous post).

Is the high pressure line the one on top or the one on bottom? When did you disconnect it? Or, is it connected to the "manifold" and, by removing the manifold, you thereby removed the high pressure line from the compressor? If the latter, did you subsequently disconnect the line from the manifold?

Did you discharge the A/C system before you started removal of the compressor? If not, how did you relieve pressure in the system?

Do you plan to do all the steps, such as vacuuming the system, adding oil, and charging the system with refrigerant, yourself or have someone else do certain phases of the installation?

Did/are you replacing the receiver/dryer? I believe a pinch bolt/clamp must be loosened from inside the left front wheel housing to get it out. Is that correct?

[Dr_Snooz]

The wheel well shroud continues forward to beneath the bumper, below the drier. Just pull the shroud away a little to access the underside of the drier. It will drop all kinds of leaves and crap when you open it. If you have no training in charging an A/C system, then replace the compressor, add oil and let a shop charge it up.

Are you converting from R12 to 134 at this time?

[Oldblueaccord]

Thanks a bunch for that info. I found a Denso on rockauto.com which must be the one you bought; it's the only Denso I saw on their site for 3rd gen Accords. It's at https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2023150&cc=1166914 I see they sell several Four Seasons models; that's one of the brands I found on ebay (mentioned in my previous post).


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Is the high pressure line the one on top or the one on bottom? When did you disconnect it? Or, is it connected to the "manifold" and, by removing the manifold, you thereby removed the high pressure line from the compressor? If the latter, did you subsequently disconnect the line from the manifold?

Did you discharge the A/C system before you started removal of the compressor? If not, how did you relieve pressure in the system?

Do you plan to do all the steps, such as vacuuming the system, adding oil, and charging the system with refrigerant, yourself or have someone else do certain phases of the installation?

Did/are you replacing the receiver/dryer? I believe a pinch bolt/clamp must be loosened from inside the left front wheel housing to get it out. Is that correct?

When I took the manifold off there appeared to be no freon in the systems.If there is it should not be over 40 psi. My compressor had locked up on the way home from work one day.

I didn't remove the lines from the manifold I took the manifold off the compressor lines attached. The manifold bolts were very very tight for some reason. I used a "shorty" allen wrench. Uncommon tool I use a lot in industry so I had a set.

6356 6359



I do plan on doing the rest myself by vacuuming the system with a air compressor vacuum venturi and filling using r134a.I bought the seal kit from rockauto as well,it seems correct. The compressor has R12 oil in it so it needs to be changed to the PAG oil. Denso has instructions inside the box that are pretty good. I have been experimenting with Envirosafe on another car but its its not conclusive how well it works so I will start with 134a first. I use the small cans and never have had a problem but f I do I will blame Obama and then move on.

My only concern is the compressor spit out some fine alum. bits so its all in the system so I am thinking about just getting new hoses too. Unforeseen problem. I may take the time to replaced the expansion valve and take apart the air box while I wait on new lines. Just thinking about it. I may just flush everything with Acetone and hook it up. I just hate to be out 200$ ruining a compressor.


http://www.3geez.com/forum/project-central/77823-full-c-rebuild.html

fairly informative link.

[Dr_Snooz]

If you have crap all in the lines, pull it all apart and flush it properly. I would also replace the expansion valve too. It got the worst of the crap.

Those venturi pumps are not my first (or last) choice. Unless you have a compressor big enough to run a tire warehouse, you won't be able to pull a proper vacuum on the system. You will get tantalizingly close to the magical level where all the water boils off, but never quite get there. Moisture in the system won't matter with Envirosafe, but it will with 134.

PAG is not recommended unless it's the double end capped PAG. Ester oil is better. And it doesn't come in fifteen different weights to confuse you. :dunno:

Acetone is an aggressive solvent and might cause you problems. First, it could eat up various rubber and plastic parts in the system, especially if some of it remains in the system after you put it back together. Second, it is very hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture from the air. Moisture combined with standard refrigerants (like 134) turns into acid and eats up your AC system. A proper AC flush would serve you much better.

[Oldblueaccord]

Manifold

6362





Drier removal pics like Snooz said. I just took off the 2 plastic screws to get at the bracket bolts. Upper lines 19mm wrench came off pretty good. There are O rings for the drier both lines. I did it with the power steering pump removed it gives you more room.

6360

6361

Drained the R-12 oil out of the compressor over night ran some Acetone thru it. Picked up some PAG 46 oil for the refill.

[derolph]

This project got postponed a bit.
Are you converting from R12 to 134 at this time?Converting to 134 seems like a good thing to do. So, I am leaning that way. I saw a video (lower left side of page) from Advance Auto Parts on a refrigerant product called A/C Pro (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/o/car-air-conditioning-repair); they don't say what the actual refrigerant in this product is. Apparently, it's some new formulation of refrigerant.


The wheel well shroud continues forward to beneath the bumper, below the drier. Just pull the shroud away a little to access the underside of the drier. It will drop all kinds of leaves and crap when you open it. If you have no training in charging an A/C system, then replace the compressor, add oil and let a shop charge it up.
Thanks for that info and advice.


When I took the manifold off there appeared to be no freon in the systems.If there is it should not be over 40 psi. My compressor had locked up on the way home from work one day.

I didn't remove the lines from the manifold I took the manifold off the compressor lines attached. The manifold bolts were very very tight for some reason. I used a "shorty" allen wrench. Uncommon tool I use a lot in industry so I had a set.

6356 6359



I do plan on doing the rest myself by vacuuming the system with a air compressor vacuum venturi and filling using r134a.I bought the seal kit from rockauto as well,it seems correct. The compressor has R12 oil in it so it needs to be changed to the PAG oil. Denso has instructions inside the box that are pretty good. I have been experimenting with Envirosafe on another car but its its not conclusive how well it works so I will start with 134a first. I use the small cans and never have had a problem but f I do I will blame Obama and then move on.

My only concern is the compressor spit out some fine alum. bits so its all in the system so I am thinking about just getting new hoses too. Unforeseen problem. I may take the time to replaced the expansion valve and take apart the air box while I wait on new lines. Just thinking about it. I may just flush everything with Acetone and hook it up. I just hate to be out 200$ ruining a compressor.


http://www.3geez.com/forum/project-central/77823-full-c-rebuild.html

fairly informative link.Thanks for the photos and comments. Very helpful.

[Trevork34]

I have a spare keihin compressor , the denso compressor In my 87 is shot, can I swap them or no?

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[Oldblueaccord]

I think the mount is different. I would double check that.

[Trevork34]

I have the mount tok

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[Trevork34]

Too*

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[Dr_Snooz]

Also make sure the hoses will bolt on without a bunch of additional headache. Otherwise, yeah, you can do the swap, but don't be surprised if the Keihin craps out or doesn't work and you end up reversing all your work to put a decent Denso back in. The Keihin is not recommended for R-134a.