2nd & 3rd GEN ACCORD WEBER 32/36 & 38 HELP [Archive] - Page 2 - 3geez.com

baron4406

12-18-2002, 02:50 PM

Ok the Weber kit came today, looks ok but your right. The throttle cable from the Accord is gonna need to be hacked. I guess you have to snip off the ball type thing on the end, so it will go in that hole on the throttle stud supplied by the weber kit?? Also the stud itself, its held to that plate with the holes in it (that you bolt to the throttle shaft) by what looks like a washer and a cotter pin??? I tried it and its a VERY loose fit. That isn't gonna work!! What in the world are you supposed to do with THAT?? I have a rather sleazy solution-simply weld that throttle stud to the throttle adapter. Anything else I should know before I tackle this Saturday?? Thanks

A20A1

12-18-2002, 07:57 PM

it's supposed to rotate as the throttle moves... if you weld it the cable will kink and it might break.

add thin washers to take up the gap... but make sure it's not so tight that it doesn't rotate freely.

did you flatten and redrill a hole lower on the throttle bracket for the stud to go?
you need to decrease the amount of throttle travel cause our pedal doesn't move the cable enough for you to use the holes provided.

Mike's89AccordLX

12-18-2002, 08:16 PM

Shouldn't you drill the new hole close to the pivot and in the center of the throttle bracket? I need to drill a new hole but don't know where to drill it.

Grant2k

12-18-2002, 08:22 PM

Originally posted by Nate2310
can't you buy the cool air intake that they sell for the weber?
what cold air intake is this? i've never seen one. who makes it and where do you get it?

2old_honda

12-18-2002, 08:33 PM

he is probably talking about thishttp://www.carbsunlimited.com/image2/airintake/airintake.jpg http://www.carbsunlimited.com/airintake.asp

It is just a short ram for the 32/36. for $170 its not worth it IMO

baron4406

12-19-2002, 01:15 PM

Two questions. First won't flattening that bracket move the bracket closer to the carb-thus maybe creating a place for the throttle stud to hang up on?? Also it will no longer line up with the cable bracket they supply then. Lastly where do you drill the new hole?? If its close to the throttle shaft then you lose almost all the lever action and your throttle will be very stiff and touchy. Darn for a kit that was supposed to be Honda specific its pretty awful.

Mike's89AccordLX

12-19-2002, 03:39 PM

I second that opinion, I had to make a new gasket because they sent the wrong one.

Mike's89AccordLX

12-20-2002, 01:23 PM

Ok, I have the money to buy the spendy intake. I know it won't give me anymore hp than the rest of them. I just don't feel like making an adapter for the Weber. Plus it looks nice (polished) I don't think I could match the quality. They said it's a K&N type filter. I assume just because it's reusable. It's a 3" pipe with yellow rubber things. I think I would end up buying a different filter if I don't like the one it comes with. Does anyone else have this intake? I know it's spendy $167. But I was just wondering if the piping is going to work with our car? I'm just curious if I have to customize it still. :wave:

A20A1

12-20-2002, 03:41 PM

it turns out you have to drill it right on the bend, after you flatten it... then stick it in a clanp and bend it back out a little and install the stud.
and you have to slot and drill a hole lower on the cable bracket.

It's was awlful... but then i didn't buy the kit... I bought the carb on e-bay and ordered the rest of the parts later.

Here is my set up. It shows the lower slot on the cable bracket.

I had to add some odd bits so I assume my linkage will look nothing like yours.

note that I added a support bar or pivot to give the cable some leverage (right)... that will keep the cable from snapping or tearing the linkage apart.
Without the support the cable would not be able to rotate the throttle linkage smoothly.

I also added a brace for the cable bracket (left)... I notticed that little by little the bracket was leaning forward.

2old_honda

12-20-2002, 04:02 PM

that thing seems like a waste of money. you wouldnt gain anything from it.

2old_honda

12-20-2002, 04:06 PM

flatten the bracket and then add washers behind it to move it away from the carb.

2old_honda

12-20-2002, 04:13 PM

here is a pic of what it should look like
http://68.81.249.80:3000/accordpics/weber_linkage.jpg

this is PhydeauX's car, I hope he dosent mind that I stole his pic :)

A20A1

12-20-2002, 04:16 PM

one more thing... make sure you pulg the coolant hole beneath the carburetor plates. the gaskets are paper and I assume they will leak and fail as it is constantly in contact with hot high pressure water/coolant.

also the small coolant hose that went to the stock carb base plate needs to be plugged.

A20A1

12-20-2002, 04:18 PM

Originally posted by 2old_honda
here is a pic of what it should look like
http://68.81.249.80:3000/accordpics/weber_linkage.jpg

this is PhydeauX's car, I hope he dosent mind that I stole his pic :)

except we found out latter that installing the carb in the other direction helps.

A20A1

12-20-2002, 04:20 PM

Originally posted by 2old_honda
flatten the bracket and then add washers behind it to move it away from the carb.

sadly i couldn't do that cause the original owner stripped the outer most threads of the throttle shaft.

Mike's89AccordLX

12-20-2002, 05:26 PM

Ok for drilling the new how, do you know like the exact numbers on where to drill it on the throttle bracket? I know it has to be close to the pivot and just to the right off center. Mines all the way to the right off center and close to the pivot. Don't know if it opens all the way though. Haven't checked it out yet.

Mike's89AccordLX

12-20-2002, 05:29 PM

Yeah you would gain the same amount of hp with a normal intake. I know it's a waste of money but I have soooo much stuff I need to do, so I don't have time to make a new adapter and I want an intake on it pronto. It will have the same hp gains as any other 3" intake. And this summer I'm going to make my hoodscoop.

A20A1

12-20-2002, 05:34 PM

Well where do you plan to stick the hood scoop?
and is it for cooling or intake.
If you are doing ram air... yuo might as well not buy the intake.

Mike's89AccordLX

12-20-2002, 05:39 PM

What I plan to do is to have the intake on in the winter and during the rainy season. And to put the old one back on in the summer when I can use the hoodscoop.

2old_honda

12-20-2002, 09:52 PM

you wouldn't gain anything because that is not a cold air intake. It is a short ram. You will be sucking hot air from the engine bay just like the filter that comes with the 32/36. To see any gains (very minimal at best) you would need to convert that short ram into a cold air setup. But with all the extra piping required for a CAI you would just be adding more stuff/bends (restrictions) that the air has to pass through to get to the engine. I would save my money and get a cam.

Mike's89AccordLX

12-20-2002, 10:05 PM

My girlfriend just bought it for me. I might think about getting a true cai from a civic and selling just the intake that she bought me. (But keep the adapter) Maybe I will powder coat it and sell it to some moron in town here. I like it for the looks. Plus this mechanic lost 2 of my clips for my weber air cleaner.

2old_honda

12-20-2002, 10:08 PM

Originally posted by A20A1
except we found out latter that installing the carb in the other direction helps.

:lol: yeah i forght about that

baron4406

12-21-2002, 08:31 AM

Hey the pics help alot thanks. I think instead of redrilling the support bracket lower and slotting in like shown, I'll simply bend the top portion to a downward angle. The throttle cable will stick up a bit then, but it will actually give better lever action and make the throttle a little smoother. I'm off now to my parents house to tackle this job. Thanks again for the tips. BTW I will be installing the carb with the linkage on the drivers side like A20A1 recommends.

baron4406

12-21-2002, 04:33 PM

Ok back with the car from my parents. Some install notes: Was a pretty easy job, made easier by the fact that I knew I had to hack up the throttle linkage. The pics helped ALOT!!! I ended up drilling the support bracket lower not bending it-I felt after looking at it that way would work the best. The hardest job?? Getting the old gasket off the intake!! Made harder by the fact that I was 100 miles away from my VERY well equipped garage and my gasket stripping tools. Ok there was a hesitation and some rough running off idle, which I cured by playing with the mixture screw. The only other bad hesitation is when I engage the secondary, it hesitates alot then accelerates. It almost feels like the secondary accelerator isn't working-or maybe its jetting. I can live with that tho. The only annoying problem is the car runs on badly after you shut it off now.....why is that?? Very strange. Tomorrow I'm tearing everything back off and sealing everything GOOD (I just threw it together to get it back here), there are some small vacuum leaks......and I can't get it to idle at less than 1000 rpms no matter what I do. So was it a worthwhile mod?? I give it a BIG thumbs up-and I haven't even set things up right. BIG seat of the pants improvement and that open element air cleaner is LOUD. The car is actually kinda fun to drive now. Thanks for all the help and I'd appreciate any more tips you have (particularly how to stop the running after the key is off)

2old_honda

12-21-2002, 04:53 PM

Originally posted by baron4406
Ok back with the car from my parents. Some install notes: Was a pretty easy job, made easier by the fact that I knew I had to hack up the throttle linkage. The pics helped ALOT!!! I ended up drilling the support bracket lower not bending it-I felt after looking at it that way would work the best. The hardest job?? Getting the old gasket off the intake!! Made harder by the fact that I was 100 miles away from my VERY well equipped garage and my gasket stripping tools. Ok there was a hesitation and some rough running off idle, which I cured by playing with the mixture screw. The only other bad hesitation is when I engage the secondary, it hesitates alot then accelerates. It almost feels like the secondary accelerator isn't working-or maybe its jetting. I can live with that tho. The only annoying problem is the car runs on badly after you shut it off now.....why is that?? Very strange. Tomorrow I'm tearing everything back off and sealing everything GOOD (I just threw it together to get it back here), there are some small vacuum leaks......and I can't get it to idle at less than 1000 rpms no matter what I do. So was it a worthwhile mod?? I give it a BIG thumbs up-and I haven't even set things up right. BIG seat of the pants improvement and that open element air cleaner is LOUD. The car is actually kinda fun to drive now. Thanks for all the help and I'd appreciate any more tips you have (particularly how to stop the running after the key is off)

it sounds like the car is running really rich, try and lean it out a little bit and see if that helps. mine idles just below 1000 and that is as low as it goes, i think that is mainly a jetting thing. It seems to be ok so i just left it that way. With this carb the car has to be at idle when you shut it off, if you are in the high idle circut or if your idle is too high the car will after-run.

baron4406

12-22-2002, 06:11 AM

I always wondered that, there are two vacuum lines on the distributor.....I run them both to vacuum. I have the a/f screw adjusted to when the idle is the highest-but that may be too rich so I'll screw that in a tad.

myaccord7

12-22-2002, 10:13 PM

get a weber dcoe. thats what iam saving for.

zach

MrBen

12-25-2002, 10:44 PM

One question. Okay actually a few, but it's all about the same thing.

Why get a weber carb over oem?

Why not just rebuild?

DROPPED88

12-25-2002, 11:08 PM

webers are better than stock

DROPPED88

12-25-2002, 11:11 PM

for performance is a weber
worse than EFI
the same as EFI
or better than EFI

MrBen

12-26-2002, 12:06 AM

Gee I didnt know that. :rolleyes:

couldya be a BIT more specific

DROPPED88

12-26-2002, 12:11 AM

WEBER 38 DGES CARBURETOR do they make an adapter plate for this carb for are cars and if they do they are better than the 32/36 right

shepherd79

12-26-2002, 04:52 AM

i like carbs more. they are easier to work with.

Mike's89AccordLX

12-26-2002, 06:16 AM

I just started tuning my Weber and it's not that hard and the performace is just plain sweet.

Mike's89AccordLX

12-26-2002, 06:18 AM

With Weber you'll get better gas mileage and about 11% to 15% more power.

shepherd79

12-26-2002, 07:36 AM

Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
With Weber you'll get better gas mileage and about 11% to 15% more power.
better gas mileage? i don't think so. not if you tune it to performance carb.
about the power yeah, 15% at least.

Mike's89AccordLX

12-26-2002, 07:44 AM

Then how do you tune it to be a performance carb? I've been getting a lot better gas mileage and a lot more power gain. But, maybe I can get more power hmm. Do you have to re-jet it or something? I'm new to the Weber 32/36.

Nate2310

12-28-2002, 09:36 PM

what kind of gains do you think you would get out of that?

DROPPED88

12-29-2002, 12:47 AM

if i made an adapter for a weber would the cold air intake off the 92 to 95 civic work with modifications like they do on the efi models or is there one of another car that would work better

Mike's89AccordLX

12-29-2002, 01:34 PM

Well I just installed my weber air intake. The hella spendy one. I haven't driven it yet. But with your ? I'm sure it would have the same gains as a efi engine would. I think the 92-95 civic CAI would work and fit the same way.

Neuspeed007

12-29-2002, 10:31 PM

they dont make a cold air intake for the weber on our car yet. Atleast they havent yet.

Neuspeed007

12-29-2002, 10:32 PM

Originally posted by Nate2310
what kind of gains do you think you would get out of that?

5-10 hp ATLEAST

Neuspeed007

12-29-2002, 10:34 PM

yes it would

Mike's89AccordLX

12-29-2002, 10:47 PM

Or you could do what I did and bought the intake from weber that comes with polished alluminum adapter and short ram intake. You could make the CAI from the civic and use the nice adapter. And in the winter you could put the weber one on so it wont suck up rain.

Don87LX

01-02-2003, 12:26 PM

Long time no see,

My webered car is acting oddly. I have had the weber on for about 15k miles or so now with no problems. Just a rare lean best mix adjust to keep things in top shape. Well,over the past few months, it has been develping problems. I cant get the car to properly idle. at the best idle setting this is the best I can get out of her:

9+ attempts to get it to start and stay running in the morning.
Idle speed of 1400 (1000 in gear) any lower and it stalls.
bescause of the high idle it will not cut off without desiling. Lots of smoke (were talking spyhunter-esque here) in the morning.

I understand that desiling and high idle are a sign of a ritch mix, but if I lean it out (even slightly) I go from this piss poor condition, to a non running car. Also the exaust dosent smell of fuel, so it cant be rich enough to cause all this. Vaccuum is all nice and sealed up. Once its running (20+ mins later) the motor is nice and strong, and runs like a champ.

Help.

Mike's89AccordLX

01-02-2003, 12:28 PM

I think if you re adjust your idle and then do the a/f it should work. I hope mine doesn't do that.

PhydeauX

01-02-2003, 04:07 PM

Smells like a vacuume leak. Check around the base adapter to make sure the bolts haven't come loose. Just spray some carb cleaner down there and if the idle goes up then you've found the problem. Do the check when the motor is still cold, it could just be a little one that seals up once things expand from the heat. Also have you been checking the throttle plate opening when you've been playing with the idle. Some times when you're playing around down there you might turn the screw open to far to keep the car running while you try to get the mixture right. That will cause something like this.

andy

Don87LX

01-03-2003, 08:32 AM

I think the Throttle plate opening is ok, but could you step me through checking it just to make sure I have it set properly?

Negative on vaccuum leak, Carb cleaner check was fine, plus I just replaced the cruddy stock weber gaskets with my own nicer cork/rubber ones to fix a previous vac leak.

PhydeauX

01-03-2003, 09:33 AM

Back the idle screw out untill its just barely touching the throttle lever, then turn it in 2 turns. Turn the idle mixture screw all the way in and then back it out 1 turn. That'll give you a fresh base to start from.

andy

Don87LX

01-03-2003, 10:31 AM

Thanks. That was what I thought. I'll just totally rebaseline the thing and give it yet another shot...

Is there something I should look at besides the carb's adjustment and vac, or quit worrying and belive it is the carb

PhydeauX

01-03-2003, 12:18 PM

Well somethings up. Carbs don't usually break, there arn't many moving parts to them. I remember my DGV was a pain when it was cold, but it wasn't quite as bad as you say, and my cam wasn't helping the idle any, esp not cold. I also have a 5speed which makes a fussy engine easier to deal with. One thing I've overlooked is your choke, I've been spending too much time with the DCOEs that don't have them. Make sure thats working and staying on long enough (/ms smacks self on head for forgetting something as simple as that). The motor is going to want to be rich and have a higher idle speed when its cold. Set you're idle when your motor is warm and then see if you can get things right with the choke.

andy

Don87LX

01-03-2003, 12:44 PM

You'll probably think I am a retard but could you refresh me on how to set the weber's choke? I've done it in the past but I want to make sure I was correct in how I did it. Thanks...

PhydeauX

01-03-2003, 01:31 PM

Trial and error. I don't know a good way to set it. You loosen the 3 bolts around the choke heater (white plastic thing that the wire connects to). There is a spring inside there. Turn it so it tightens to make the choke stay on longer, and vice versa. The fast idle speed screw is behind the choke heater. Turn it untill the motor is at a speed that it will stay running when cold. Remember that there are 3 steps on the choke cam (what the fast idle screw sits on). The first cam will be the fastest, but it will come off this cam as soon as you step on the pedal after the engine is started. The second step is the one where its going to sit as you try to drive it. You want it on this step when you set the fast idle speed. The 3rd doesn't matter much, thats where it sits when its almost warm.

andy

Don87LX

01-03-2003, 01:51 PM

Thanks. I'll report sucess/failure/lack of change over the weekend. You're really a big help Phy...

Versanick

01-12-2003, 10:06 PM

Okay a20a1 keeps talking about the DGV carb, everyone agreeing pretty much that the 32/36 is the way to go... The Weber site (as well as the others who sell the weber conversion kits) sell the kit for the 2.0 w/manual trans as the DGEV (electronic choke)... what is the big difference, and how do I GET the DGV instead of the DGEV... and are you all really just shortening DGEV to DGV on your posts because it doesn't matter and they're the same?

I've seen DGV's and DGEV's sold differently on their sites too, so I don't assume that they are the same... my educated guess is the difference in having an electronic choke or not... and how much harder is that to configure or use than the non-electric choke one... I'm looking to get the Weber for my 88 Accord LX... but I don't know the difference/where to get DGV versus DGEV... thanks ahead of time!

-Vers

shepherd79

01-13-2003, 04:52 AM

you may want to search the ebay for it.

Experimental_Honda

01-16-2003, 07:41 AM

ok i wanna get the low down on the weber cuz i almost have the money for a b16a1 but if the weber helps enough i gonna say fuck it to the swap. how much hp and tq will it give me with my current mods(im getting headers in about a week)? how fast are you all running 1/4's with one?? what all do i need besides the "Injection Carburetor Kit" they have on nopi? and do they make the adapter plate for em so i can spray??

boileralum00

01-16-2003, 08:11 AM

Check here for the kit made specifically for the 3G: http://www.carbs.net/Weber/Dataresults3.asp?Kit_Nbr=K728&Model=ACCORD

Mike's89AccordLX

01-16-2003, 08:11 AM

I think the weber 32/36 is like a 15-20% hp increase. It is so nice to have. I don't know how much hp a b16a1 has. Whats the injection carb kit? I'll have to check that out.

Mike's89AccordLX

01-16-2003, 12:02 PM

I agree with A20A1. Dual carbs would be a lot faster. Plus I like tuning carbs. Easyier for working on.

iloveJDMblackrims69

01-16-2003, 03:43 PM

would 2 of them be like 30-40 Hp??? how much would everything be for qa dual set-up (products, labor, etc...)

iloveJDMblackrims69

01-16-2003, 03:44 PM

and damn on weber...THAT AIR CLEANER IS KILLIN ME AND IS OO CLEAN!!!!!! i want it :(!!!!!!!!!

iloveJDMblackrims69

01-16-2003, 03:45 PM

and osrry for bein a post whore i forgot what to say............IS THERE WEBER CARBS FOR AUTO TRANNY???

Mike's89AccordLX

01-16-2003, 04:05 PM

You can use it for an auto you just have to mod the throttle linkage like A20A1 has done.

DigitaLuminescence

01-16-2003, 04:11 PM

Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
You can use it for an auto you just have to mod the throttle linkage like A20A1 has done.
How do you mod the throttle linkage?

89AccordHatch

01-16-2003, 09:18 PM

350.00 for the manifold?

carobotics

01-16-2003, 10:25 PM

How much for the manifold for this weber?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2400270343&category=26436

:-)

Experimental_Honda

01-17-2003, 07:40 AM

the b16a1 has 160 stock hp only problem is getting parts for it seeing as how its a jdm motor. i mean carbs are the stone age when it comes to car injection s the way to go you can really do shit to a carb. but i might have to go with one any ways.......

89AccordHatch

01-17-2003, 09:37 AM

lolololol:lol :lol :lol

A20A1

01-20-2003, 06:54 PM

Hmm things didn't turn out how I expected it to when I merged a few weber conversion threads... looks like everything is still organized by the time and date it was posted... so a lot of replies might seem totaly misplaced... so that was my fault sorry.

MrBen

01-20-2003, 07:32 PM

I noticed.

89AccordHatch

01-21-2003, 09:05 PM

will a weber 40 dcoe fit on a b20?

Versanick

01-21-2003, 09:53 PM

But I've seen 32/36 DGV and DGEV's that are K601 and like K637 that look completely different... I found one for a suzuki water ski, some for volkswagen trucks, and other things. I am wondering if I am imagining things, and that this carb will work. If so, I will be inclined to purchase it as early as tomorrow. It seems to be placed in the category of car and truck fuel delivery... should I e-mail the owner and ask for a part number or where it came from? (I'm new to this eBay thing). I know this isn't as much of a carb tech question as I'd like it to be, but it has to do with whether this carb will work.

It says it is rebuilt and has been flow tested. I would guess that we need the exact K624 kit, but I don't know how different the things are. If the Base Gaskets are the same, how much different are they? On Weber's site all the 32/36 DGEV's, even though they have different kit numbers, their part numbers are EXACTLY the same. Does that mean they are the same?

Also if I buy this carb and it doesn't come with it, do I need the Redline Adapter? If so, can I find those on eBay, too?

Thanks a head of time

-Vers

Versanick

01-21-2003, 10:27 PM

I was curious about the 38mm carb. How much harder is that to find and install? I can't find the information I'm looking for in the how-to's, but would very much like the 38mm. We're pulling out and porting my head and intake, so I'm looking to overhaul here. I have future plans for a moderate street cam (not sure abt valve porting), header, and the 1.75" high velocity straight pipe SuperTrapp exhaust that I already have built. I'm not looking at nitrous unless I leave the timing alone (unlikely given the conditions)... but I can't find the 38/38 or how much harder that is to install or how expensive it is. Thanks in advance.

A20A1

01-21-2003, 10:52 PM

If you need to buy an Adapter plate for the weber... the part # is:
99004.128

A20A1

01-21-2003, 11:13 PM

#K624 = 76-83 Honda Accords 32/36 DGEV
#K637 = 68-73 NISSAN 510 40 DCOE
#K728 = 86-89 Honda Accords 32/26 DGEV
#K601 = Suzuki Samurai 32/36 DGAV

If you buy the 32/36 carb by itself then you will need to buy jets and the adapter plate and linkage and throttle cable bracket, all seperately.

Same goes if you buy the 38/38 carb by itself.

The DGAV is a water choke which is neat because it runs off the coolant temp directly instead of an electric sensor like the DGEV uses. but since our cars already have the sensor for a DGEV we can use that as well. the DGV-5A is a Manual Choke, but it requires a cable that needs to be routed thru the firewall so the driver has control over the choke operation. I would preffer the Manual choke not for the ease of installation but for the amount of control it gives the driver.

don't buy an entire kit unless you intend to buy the K728 kit for the 86-89 accord... no other kit will work.

Versanick

01-22-2003, 09:11 AM

Weber 38/38... I found a 38/38 DGAV on eBay for the Suzuki Samurai. I know I can get the adapter plate and linkage from Weber, but they mention nothing about the throttle cable bracket or the jets. I have e-mailed them asking, but they have yet to respond.

Other than eBay, I only find the 38 series at carbs.net http://www.carbs.net/Weber/weberpartscarb.asp
They say kit applications work for 4-8 cylinders all around, but I don't know if they're referring to a 38/38 system (I assume?) or a single 38mm (because they list as 38, not 38/38)... They have both types of chokes available, water and electric.

I also don't see if these carbs are downdraft or sidedraft. Nowhere on weber's site, or carbs.net or anywhere can I figure out exactly what it is I'm getting... is that something I affect or does it come one way or another? (I am so ignorant about carbs, I've always had efi before my 3g)...

The water choke looks like a pretty neat system, but the electronic one looks simpler to put together.

Thanks ahead of time for the advice, and thanks for what you've given. These forums are so helpful, it's amazing! what a community there is now... something like 1600 registered users! amazing!

-Vers

Versanick

01-22-2003, 09:17 AM

Okay, I found the jet kits. Sorry about that part... I still am very interested in this 38mm business. I'll e-mail them about what else I'd need to install it, then come here.

A20A1

01-22-2003, 12:24 PM

Are you sure it's not a 38 DGAS?
38 DGS (DGES ELECTRIC CHOKE) (DGAS WATER CHOKE)
I't may say DGV because it can work with a DGV baseplate or on a car equipt with a DGV but the 38 isn't a DGV.

also
38/38 is just a longer wording of the series. But I assume they call it 38 since its synchronous like a 40 DCOE and the throttle plates are the same for each barrel.

I'm surprised You didn't go for at least a 2.0" header back exhaust.

79EK1

01-22-2003, 05:31 PM

The 38 DGAS is a synchronous dual downdraft carb with 38mm bores that open simultaneously and has the water choke. The DGES has the electric choke. It will work with the same 32/36 DGV adapter plate, although you can open up the adapter plate bores to match the carb. The throttle linkage is the same as would be found on the 32/36, so you may have to get creative with the linkage to hook it to the stock accelerator cable.

I've found the performance is better in the mid and high rpm range than the 32/36, but you have to baby the pedal at low rpm to avoid bogging the engine. The 38DGAS works best with a cam and exhaust upgrade.

Darkside

01-29-2003, 09:41 AM

I am buying a weber 32/36 from chronicsinners I was wondering if anyone has done a how to install on this project? If not if you have any tips that would be great. Thanks Darkside

A20A1

01-29-2003, 11:43 AM

don't rush... there is a port you need to plug on the intake manifold after the stock carb is removed in order to keep the coolant from going inside the manifold.

Darkside

01-29-2003, 03:20 PM

Thanks for the tip. I'll probably have more questions later. So I'll talk to you then.

dXsquared

01-29-2003, 03:35 PM

so you tell him but not me! ARGH!!!!!!! im still pissed off about that! COOLANT POURING INTO THE INTAKE! i plged the hole and burned it all out!

is that harmful to the OZONE?

Travis

89AccordNate

02-06-2003, 11:55 AM

Ok I have read over and over again that the weber is a great thing for our carb accords. The question is, how great is it considering these things:

1) All weather conditions, including cold (below freezing) all weather combinations (cold weather plus rain, snow, etc.), even at highway speeds.
2) Tunability and relability. How much does the carb need to be tuned in say a one week period. Can it be tuned once and not touched like the honda carb, or is it a constant neusance to make the car run right for the particular weather conditions?
3) How are the cold morning starts, meaning when it is below 30 degrees at night, and the car sits, how well does the car start?
4) Have you noticed you are opening your hood a lot more because you need to tune the weber.

Answer these questions carb gurus! The weather here in west virginia is pretty up and down, very cold, wet, rainy, etc...so I need to take these into account.

Nate.

dXsquared

02-06-2003, 12:35 PM

i have set my carb twice... once in the cold and once in the warm... it runs like ass in the -25 celcius... but its ok over 2200 RPM... just shift high and keep the revs up...

i got the carb in the fall... so it wasnt warm alot... this spring and summer will tell me alot about the cab

Travis

Mike's89AccordLX

02-06-2003, 12:43 PM

I got the carb in the start of winter (MN winter) and in the mornings I will turn it over and it will start and die but the second time I start it keeps running. I think it could be my fuel pump (seems like it just doesn't get enough fuel in the morning) I've tuned it 3 times since November. When the weather changes drastically it will most likely need to be tuned again and it's really easy. Just a flat head screw driver to tune it and the screw are really easy to get to. Other than the carb isn't open to WOT yet it works better than stock by far. Just can't wait to figure it out on how to get it to open WOT.

MrBen

02-06-2003, 12:58 PM

Many Hondas do that. I dont think it is anything to worry about.

2old_honda

02-06-2003, 01:06 PM

It gets pretty cold where I live (lowest I have started and driven the car was -10 F) and I have not had any problems. I got the carb in the summer and I can tell you that it works great! I have not had any problems at all. I have tuned the carb probably 4-5 times in the year I have had it, and it didnt even really need to be tuned when I did it.

2old_honda

02-06-2003, 01:08 PM

yeah my car does that too, but only when it is really cold. I will turn the key, it will start for a sec and then die, then i turn the key a second time and it will start right up and run like normal.

dXsquared

02-06-2003, 01:19 PM

same here... i find that if i place a hot plate under the engine and place a blanket on the hood and fenders... i start it up in the morning and it blows warm air... this is in a -20 C night too!

Travis

2old_honda

02-07-2003, 12:22 AM

I just got back from my friends house. It is -3 F with a wind chill of -15 F. The car ran just fine.

89AccordNate

02-11-2003, 04:12 PM

With the growing interest in the webers, we need a weber installation how-to. I would buy one right now and slap it on, but I dont understand the sequence of the install. Does it come with instructions?

With all of us knowing little to nothing about carbs, we need something like this.

Anyone want to write up a brief explanation of how to install it?

Im looking for one right now........find me a good price on a weber!

Nate.

dXsquared

02-11-2003, 04:15 PM

its a shame you deleted and blocked me man! i have a weber and i could have walked you through it step by step! if you want... i can help you out on AIM

Travis

dXsquared

08-01-2003, 06:24 AM

my carb wasnt getting WOT so i removed the rubber stopper under the pedal.. so much better now

Travis

Mike's89AccordLX

08-01-2003, 06:41 AM

What I did I drill the little hole in that cable holder bigger with my dremel. And then to get WOT I used my dremel to cut out that little plate that is attached onto the floor and under the carpet. Then I adjusted the throttle cable again and I was at WOT finally.

mindlos

08-01-2003, 08:30 AM

Adding some keywords for searching??

Originally posted by A20A1
weber throttle cable wide open adjustment linkage carb

PhydeauX

08-01-2003, 06:55 PM

Here's another lazy way to do it, poped back into my head when I read dxhatch's comment. I did this on my dcoe settup since I was being lazy and didnt feel like taking the whole bell crank assembly apart again to drill a new hole. Just grab the accelerator pedal and pull. Just keep pulling it out slightly untill you've taken out the slack. Just don't go too far or you'll have a bitch of a time heel toeing it.

andy

Mike's89AccordLX

08-01-2003, 06:57 PM

You could heat it up with a heat gun and bend it. It's funny b/c I thought I was the only one to get pissed and start doing weird mods to get WOT. I don't feel alone anymore.

Darkside

04-02-2004, 05:00 PM

I'm going to Dyno mine this summer at Matrix motor sports in Portland. Others should go as well.

2oodoor

11-10-2007, 03:01 PM

OK I was just reading this entire thread again.. wow lost links pics everytwhere. I hope someone can put some of them back up, or they are gone forever..lots of good work, that reminds me of something Kim Komando was saying on the radio this am, computers are not forever, if you have memories in photos you best print them out....
anyway. for inquiring minds check this out.....
Quote A20A1

OK here is the Venturi size for the Keihin vs the weber 32/36

KEIHIN:
-PRIMARY BARREL ~22.225mm
-SECONDARY BARREL ~31.75mm

WEBER:
-PRIMARY BARREL 32mm
-SECONDARY BARREL 36mm

Now tell me which carb sucks more...

2ndGenGuy

11-10-2007, 07:25 PM

2oodoor

11-11-2007, 12:05 PM

just posting what was posted by A20A1. There were two different carbs, some were "three barrels" so that spec may be from one of the two different carbs.

A20A1

11-16-2007, 06:41 PM

i think it was venturi bore diameter not throttle bore diameter

2oodoor

03-16-2008, 02:30 AM

I ran across some information on a 4X4 forum (4 and 6 cyl vehicles).
Even though you can get by without a regulator using the 32/36, it is a good thing to use one anyway. The fuel can be atomized slightly when the needle opens because of too much pressure (8psi and more with oem fuel pumps) and the Weber is designed to work best on 2.5-4 psi, thus you will get a lot of fumes which could be causing over rich condtions randomly, also makes carb gaskets seep. Using the regulator will remedy a lot of seasonal retuning issues as well.

jdmaccordnut

08-31-2008, 05:25 PM

I've read the install how/to over and over, but it doesn't mention what to do with the hot air pipe, coming off the exhaust manifold attaching to the stock intake snorkel. What do I do with it? I have the black box taken out, so far so good. Will have the carb out after eating some food.

2oodoor

08-31-2008, 05:42 PM

there are two , one goes from the exhaust to the actual intake manifold, that is egr
the other one (larger) goes to the Air pulser, you can take that completly off and plut the pipe to the exhaust.
The flexable really light plastic one is hot air duct that goes to the old air breather, you just have to put that up for a while, you wont be able to use it on the standard weber air cleaner.

jdmaccordnut

08-31-2008, 06:43 PM

How do I plug the one on the exhaust manifold? The how to never mentioned that. :\

Plug it with what, quicksteel?

2oodoor

08-31-2008, 07:23 PM

How do I plug the one on the exhaust manifold? The how to never mentioned that. :\

Plug it with what, quicksteel?

which one? what I did was cut the flange nut off both of them and welded in a washer and then made them solid plug offs, screw them back in.
You can cut them short of the flange nuts and pinch the tubing together and fold it ,hope it don't leak.

jdmaccordnut

08-31-2008, 08:48 PM

Alright, all emissions garbage is out, and things are going along nicely. I plugged the coolant hole in the manifold with quicksteel, and tomorrow I need to pick up some vaccuum plugs. The big thing I'm still unsure of is the throttle bracket. The how to here says "by far the best way to setup the weber linkage... use the old keihin carb linkage from the stock carb (modification necessary)."

Okay, uh, what modification? It says nothing about what needs to be done, and I'd really like to do this right. Can anybody go into detail on how to swap the throttle linkages?

jdmaccordnut

08-31-2008, 08:53 PM

jdmaccordnut

09-01-2008, 11:26 AM

Carb is in, car runs! :D

Haven't tuned it yet, it still idles crazy high, but man is the throttle responsive. Holy crap. Anyway, I used the Klein linkage, I had to dremel out the hole a little wider to fit on the throttle shaft of the Weber, and remove part of it that was hitting the carb base. I also had to use a few washers to space it away from the carb body, so it wouldn't hit the weber linkages. Woohooo!

jdmaccordnut

09-01-2008, 12:22 PM

Okay, just drove it around for 15 minutes. It currently idles at 2000-2500rpms. That needs to be fixed, but the really REALLY annoying thing is when I turn the car off it stumbles on and on and on and on. WTF. Nobody who was saying how great webers are mentioned this.

2oodoor

09-01-2008, 12:33 PM

awe come on now, it isnt the weber's fault.
First of course , please no vacuum leaks or all idle adjustments are pointless.
If that is all cool then you probably have the throttle stop idle screw adj too far in. Also make sure the fat rod on the opposite side of the carb, which is the fast idle for when the choke blade is closed, is not sticking or binding. It is just a matter of minor adjustments.
BTW you also should have a little slack in the throttle cable.
Post a few pics of what you got there so far, so we may see something that may not look right.

jdmaccordnut

09-01-2008, 01:00 PM

Pretty sure I have no vacuum leaks. I plugged everything that needed to be plugged. I'll post some pics in a few minutes.

jdmaccordnut

09-01-2008, 01:37 PM

2oodoor

09-01-2008, 02:47 PM

http://www.3geez.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3673.jpg

My AS valve is unplugged, that is correct, right? It is pulsing air when I put my hand near the opening. The big issue is the throttle return spring. I have no idea where that is supposed to hook up to, so I hooked mine to the throttle cable itself, before it is mounted to the throttle cable mount thing. It's running better, but it still stumbles on at shutoff.

I wouldnt advise putting the return spring on the cable, you may need to get a universal spring, longer, that will extend to something you can rely on.
Sometimes, when you put those studs in, and you tighten the nuts for the carb.. you can inadvertently turn the studs in too far and push the adapters apart.
On the AS valve you can remove the whole friggen thing, and plug off the tube like I decribed in the other thread.

A20A1

09-01-2008, 07:30 PM

Pics? Drawings? Something?

it should be all here

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=452613&postcount=2

let the pics load it may be slow.

2ndGenGuy

09-01-2008, 09:19 PM

Vacuum leaks come from around the base of the carb and the adapter plates. I use aerosol cans full of butane (used for refilling my soldering iron) and spray the butane at the carb base. The vacuum leak will suck the gas in and the car will accelerate slightly or stumble. It's REALLY REALLY REALLY important that you make sure there are no leaks.

greentee76

09-02-2008, 02:00 PM

The car is running on because the throttle plates are still open when you shut off the car. I had this problem when I first did mine.
IMO the return spring that comes in the kit is crap. I ended up using a return spring from a diesel truck I had kicking around here at work.
As for where to hook the return spring I used an L bracket on one of the rear bolt holes on the intake that the vacuum tree bolted to. Sorry I don't have any pictures.

jdmaccordnut

09-02-2008, 08:42 PM

it should be all here

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=452613&postcount=2

let the pics load it may be slow.

There was ONE pic of the Klein, and it says it needed mods. No information on what needed to be done. For the record, I had to dremel out the hole a little wider to fit on the throttle shaft of the Weber, and remove part of it that was hitting the carb base. I also had to use a few washers to space it away from the carb body, so it wouldn't hit the weber linkages.

jdmaccordnut

09-02-2008, 08:43 PM

I wouldnt advise putting the return spring on the cable, you may need to get a universal spring, longer, that will extend to something you can rely on.
Sometimes, when you put those studs in, and you tighten the nuts for the carb.. you can inadvertently turn the studs in too far and push the adapters apart.
On the AS valve you can remove the whole friggen thing, and plug off the tube like I decribed in the other thread.

The how to used the pic of the AS valve above, and said that was as much as you could remove. I can unbolt all of it?

jdmaccordnut

09-02-2008, 08:45 PM

Pics!

http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v332/130/116/107500324/n107500324_30142218_1954.jpg

http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v332/130/116/107500324/n107500324_30142219_5519.jpg

http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v332/130/116/107500324/n107500324_30142220_9742.jpg

A20A1

09-02-2008, 09:48 PM

jdmaccordnut

09-02-2008, 10:47 PM

Oh yeah, before I forget: How do I get cruise to still work? Do I just hook up vacuum to the cruise section? Or what?

2oodoor

09-03-2008, 03:30 AM

Yes you can remove the As valve but you must plug the hole in the exhaust manifold with a cap or remove the pipe from the manifold and weld the pipe shut or crimp it shut, then install the sealed pipe back on the exhaust manifold to plug the hole.

I thought the wine cork worked pretty good, put a good tite-un in the pipe end up top till you can get the plug made for the exhaust end. :naughty:

2ndGenGuy

09-03-2008, 07:50 AM

Oh yeah, before I forget: How do I get cruise to still work? Do I just hook up vacuum to the cruise section? Or what?

Yeah you just run a line from the intake manifold to the cruise control components. I think there was a canister, hopefully you didn't throw that away, as I'm pretty sure the actuator or whatever it's called, needs that to work.

jdmaccordnut

09-15-2008, 02:59 PM

Sweet. Will hook that up this weekend. Couple things though.... my engine is stock, at 267,000 miles. It still idles "rough". When accelerating, my tachometer bounces around ~500-1000rpms of wherever it actually is. Someone told me that my distributor could be bad... is that true? Or could it simply be some binding in the tach cable? If it is true, would that cause my rough idle? Would I need to order an entirely new distributor? Or just a new cap and rotor?

To fix the 'running on' when I shut the car off, I tweaked the throttle mounting bracket towards the rear of the car, allowing the throttle to close all the way. Thanks for the help, whoever suggested that, that seemed to work great. :)

Lastly, it accelerates about the same as before, but a little SLOWER. When I really get on it, it makes this louder "BRAAAAAAHHHH" noise, and it seems like it's bogging. Do I need to change jets? I thought this carb was well suited to this engine, stock?

Thanks for your help so far! :)

A20A1

09-15-2008, 08:40 PM

could be fuel pressure/flow, jets, float, or timing needs some adjustment... stuff like that. you can't expect to pop on the carb and have it work 100% right out of the box.

also a vacuum leak will really hurt performance.

jdmaccordnut

09-15-2008, 09:52 PM

2oodoor

09-16-2008, 03:22 AM

so the jets aren't right for a stock engine? Or they could be? WTF man. I was told this carb bolts in. It did, but if it needs new jets right away, how the hell is this an accord kit?! Timing shouldn't change from one carb to another, I had the timing done a few thousand ago.

be pateint you sound like you trying to blow your gasket :rant: trust me you did not make a mistake with this carb and you will have a lot more hair left dealing with it over the oem unit.
Like A20A1 said vaccum leaks and compensating for those with idle and idle air adjustments just masks the problem if that is the case. Other than that you probalby need to advance the ign timing some from what you describe.
Webers do growl when you open up the throttle but you should be picking up rpm along with it so yes, sounds like timing needs tweeked.

greentee76

09-16-2008, 02:15 PM

so the jets aren't right for a stock engine? Or they could be? WTF man. I was told this carb bolts in. It did, but if it needs new jets right away, how the hell is this an accord kit?! Timing shouldn't change from one carb to another, I had the timing done a few thousand ago.

You already said you suspect the distributor to not be 100%, that could be your problem right there. Higher rpm's only amplify an ignition problem.
The jetting in the kit is correct, as mine bolted on and ran fine with no jet changes. You are blaming the one new part for an issue that could well be an item that has done 200k+ is probably the problem.

A20A1

09-16-2008, 10:58 PM

Right the timing doesn't change... however adjusting the timing should help, because you just changed your carburetor, it responds differently then your oem carb thus you might need to stray from oem timing settings.

Carbs will still run rich or lean it doesn't mean the jets are perfect, but the ones you have now will work just fine. You should consider your altitude, as high or low altitudes will need different jets. Also those that might need the jets changed for sure though are the ones buying weber carbs off e-bay.

I found that the initial stumble came from fuel pressure not being constant and/or timing needing adjustment.

greentee76

09-17-2008, 02:03 PM

A20A1... quick question that has been bothering me.
On the weber install how to you show vacuum for the dizzy advance hooked to the tree on the back of the manifold. So that would be manifold vacuum,correct?
On my Weber that I got from carbs unlimited as a kit there is a port on the carb body itself that the instructions with the kit say to hook the vacuum advance to. That would be venturi vacuum,correct?
Now what confuses me is- are not manifold vacuum and venturi vacuum inverse of each other? One being high when the other is low? If so which is correct? What type of vacuum did Honda originally use for advance?
And lastly, does it matter?

jdmaccordnut

09-17-2008, 05:12 PM

I hooked the #2 hose on the distributor up to the vacuum tree on the back of the manifold. It runs okay. On my last tank I averaged 29.7mpg.

A20A1

09-17-2008, 08:24 PM

The one on the carb may be port or ported vacuum. I doubt it's venturi vacuum... but I guess it depends how high up the port is on the carb.

Ported vacuum may not be pulling anything or could be very weak when the throttle is closed at idle if it sits above the throttle plate... If it sit's below the plate then it will be closer to intake manifold vacuum.

Yes venturi and manifold are inverse.

Also for those that need a second opinion... I know this is not our car but in the first paragraph he mentions the need to adjust timing to run the 32/36
http://www.mgbmga.com/tech/mgb19.htm the most interesting part about the paragraph is at the end where he talks about a synchronous 32/36 mod.

I've posted that link before in other threads, I'm looking for more like that to add to this thread.

.
.
.

here is a good read though not specifically for webers
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm

.
.
.

I know some of you might have something against the stock carb but here is a link praising keihin's... bike carbs that is. :D
http://www.prirace.com/carbs.htm
the fcr looks promising.
http://www.hardracing.com/Carburetors/Carburetors2.htm

greentee76

09-18-2008, 02:44 PM

Well I ask the question as it does not seem to be very strong vacuum from that port. Don't get me wrong the car runs good and gets good mileage. however now that I have the new engine broke in and have started floggin on it some,it seems like it loses steam around 4k and doesn't want to rev much past that unless I'm at wide open throttle. Being that this engine makes peak HP in the 5500 rpm range it seems that maybe I'm not getting the advance that I should be.
I think I'll switch it over to the back of the manifold and see if there is a difference.
I have the distributor advanced as far as it will mechanically go and am still only at 20 BTDC.
I also suspect a exhaust restriction may be to blame for this but I don't think what I have is any more restrictive than what stock would be.

jdmaccordnut

10-03-2008, 09:55 PM

Weird. So I plugged that stupid AS valve tonight with a plate and some gasket material. Car runs WAY smoother now. Strange.

greentee76

10-06-2008, 04:07 PM

Thought I should come back and post some results from my vacuum experiment. I switched my advance vacuum from the port on the carb to manifold vacuum on the tree at the rear of the manifold. The car seems to pull much stronger in this configuration.
This also raised my idle 2-300 rpms. I have not adjusted it yet. I lost 1MPG (all city driving) on the first half tank with it hooked up this way. I also have been running it a bit harder so that may account for this and not the change.
My plans now are to Back the idle back down to 1k and I think I will also retard the mechanical timing to around 16-17 degrees as this is where I achieved my best fuel economy with the old engine.
For now I would say that if you do the conversion to plug the port on the carb and run your advance to manifold vacuum (as A20A1 has it in the how to).

jdmaccordnut

10-08-2008, 08:52 PM

Pics?

jdmaccordnut

10-20-2008, 07:05 PM

greentee76

10-20-2008, 07:26 PM

So I've been having a few problems:

1. When turning the car off, it runs on. I can fix this, sort of, by making the throttle cable so loose that the spring SOMETIMES closes the carb all the way. This works about 50% of the time.

2. Cold weather sucks. I start the car, and the first few minutes of driving suck, because it wants to die unless I give it gas. I have to rev it, and rev while I'm braking to keep it from dying. That's kind of annoying. Is my choke working properly?

1- The throttle return spring that comes with the kit SUCKS. Go get yourself something much healthier, I used one from a big diesel truck that I had here at work, no more worries.

2- Are you pushing the accelerator to the floor once and releasing before you start? This should set the choke and bring it onto a fast idle 2-2.5k. Let it idle for a minute before tapping the accelerator to bring the idle down.You may also need to adjust the mixture screw on the rear of the carb on the driverside a little in the cold weather? I have not had to do this yet and we've gotten down in the forties a couple of nights already.

jdmaccordnut

10-21-2008, 09:21 AM

I have no fast idle when it's cold. What could cause that? I'm guessing the choke isn't working at all. :|

greentee76

10-21-2008, 12:04 PM

Pull the wire off the choke and test it with a multimeter, should have 12v anytime the key is on. This wire actually comes right off the alternator which I thought was wierd. Should be the same wire which went to the choke on the Kehien, would have had a bullet connector on it originally. I am asuming you're setting the choke with one pump of the accelerator.

jdmaccordnut

10-23-2008, 08:02 AM

I have no idea how to set the choke.... do I need to push the accelerator all the way down with the key in to activate it? And yes, I ran the wire from the old Kehien choke to the new Weber choke.

greentee76

10-23-2008, 12:21 PM

All I do is one pump of the accelerator all the way to the floor and let go. The key does not have to be in or on.

2oodoor

10-23-2008, 12:40 PM

it really really really is rather simple if you examine it closely. The choke disc inside the round thing is made of a special bi metal that contracts when the ambient temp is below like 50 degrees or so. When you go out and mash the gas pedal to the floor, if the bi metal is contracted, the choke butterfly will close off air into the carb throat. When this happens a rod is also attached to that same lever that kicks up a rod down the side of the carb , this is the fast idle rod, some have a screw to adjust how much it moves to hold the throttle open slightley which is "fast idle" The electric wire heats up the bi metal to expand it , thus letting go of the butterfly and fast idle rod. These webers do not have a long fast idle, they kick off pretty early. Sometimes you will need to go out and just barely turn the air mix screw for the base idle as the temps change during the year. You can turn it with your fingers and there is nothing to remove to access that, takes a few seconds.

jdmaccordnut

10-23-2008, 09:25 PM

You know what? I just disconnected the stupid choke, leaving it open, and I no longer have a problem. Why would the engine try to die if the choke was closed? Shouldn't it run better?

jdmaccordnut

10-28-2008, 09:55 PM

I give up. Car is for sale. Maybe someone who is better at carbs than me can fix all it's issues, but I'm getting tired of it.

2oodoor

10-29-2008, 01:51 PM

:uh:
I think you may need help with the basic understanding of how the automatic choke works.
The choke will not close until you mash the throttle to release or unbind the choke butterfly off the throttle stop.
Once that happens the stepper for the fast idle comes up, there is a rod on the opposite side of the throttle connection that handles that. Only like five pieces we are talking about here...Pm if you want

jdmaccordnut

12-02-2008, 10:13 AM

2oodoor

12-02-2008, 04:30 PM

FYI to anyone, I'm getting about 22-25mpg with the Weber. Not super impressed, especially since the how to said the stock Klein linkage was the best, so I did that but the pedal travel does not have enough 'travel' to let the car idle reasonable, AND hit WOT. So my car is "slower" than it was stock, because I can't get to WOT thanks to the tip of using the Klein's linkage. Anyway.

don't blame the equipment, you just had to chime in with this BS? I was getting 29 mpg with mine, dogging it all the time or not same mpg consistant. Hell even the 38 weber Im using now on the other car is getting 25-30 mpg.
I could have tuned it closer to get better mpg.
The only thing you use is the cresant shaped cable retainer so you can use the same cable with out cutting it. :violin:that actually provide MORE travel than the junk pack weber sends out.
Never did see any pictures of your set up, you being all techy savy and all what was the problem? I could help you with it, gladly. automatic tranny? tricky is the set up for those using a weber but I can guide on that too.
Not meaning to sound as condesending as you, but I am standing by for a spelling grammer error comment.lol :tongue:

greentee76

12-02-2008, 04:47 PM

FYI to anyone, I'm getting about 22-25mpg with the Weber. Not super impressed, especially since the how to said the stock Klein linkage was the best, so I did that but the pedal travel does not have enough 'travel' to let the car idle reasonable, AND hit WOT. So my car is "slower" than it was stock, because I can't get to WOT thanks to the tip of using the Klein's linkage. Anyway.

Take the bracket that holds the cable off the front of the carb and make a spacer to move it one inch toward the front of the car. This will fix this "problem". Mine was not exactly perfect with just the bracket provided in the kit but I was able to get WOT and a larger return spring corrected the issue of the throttle not returning all the way like I said a month or more ago.
The Weber conversion is the best money I've ever spent on the car and making it work correctly is not rocket science, but maybe beyond your capabilities.

A20A1

12-02-2008, 07:39 PM

I wonder why your pedal doesn't have enough travel. I've set up the weber on two cars and both could idle around 500 and open the throttle plates all the way.
You can't use the stock keihin linkage as it though, the reason for it being so good is that it has a smoother operation then using stock weber linkages.

2oodoor

12-03-2008, 09:58 AM

Take the bracket that holds the cable off the front of the carb and make a spacer to move it one inch toward the front of the car. This will fix this "problem". Mine was not exactly perfect with just the bracket provided in the kit but I was able to get WOT and a larger return spring corrected the issue of the throttle not returning all the way like I said a month or more ago.
The Weber conversion is the best money I've ever spent on the car and making it work correctly is not rocket science, but maybe beyond your capabilities.

pretty much exactly how to resolve this issue, good post greentea!

jdmaccordnut

12-06-2008, 06:47 PM

I'll post pics in the next few days

jdmaccordnut

12-22-2008, 09:32 PM

Here are some pics

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c143/badquote/IMG_5597.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c143/badquote/IMG_5598.jpg

2oodoor

12-23-2008, 05:33 AM

I owe you some pics of mine. Been too busy with something else lately.

It looks like you need to dremel cut some of the metal of that oem piece. Also there is not enough shaft showing at the end of that nut, it could fall off possibly. The cable does not look quite right either, hard to tell you why without my pictures.
I can see why you are having some problems there.

jdmaccordnut

12-23-2008, 05:46 AM

Like the chrome valve cover? Woot. Anxiously awaiting your pics! :)

2oodoor

12-23-2008, 06:11 AM

Like the chrome valve cover? Woot. Anxiously awaiting your pics! :)

I was looking at that valve cover and thinking something looked different, it is chrome, saa weeet:thumbup:

jdmaccordnut

12-26-2008, 03:42 PM

Well I put in new plugs, and redid the distributor, oiled the bearings, new rotor, new cap... still doesn't run worth shit in the cold. Dies instantly. Why? So now what I do is stab the gas while I'm braking every few seconds to keep the engine alive.

SaNeen

08-26-2009, 04:19 PM

6th gen subforums added. please begin to use them and help us keep this place organized for every ones benefit

2oodoor

04-05-2010, 05:12 AM

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/Mobile%20Uploads/0320001254.jpg

compare the stock vs modified intake manifold opening, I had them both out and decided to share this

2ndGenGuy

04-05-2010, 08:36 AM

Damn, big difference! Is the entire dividing wall removed out of that one?

2oodoor

04-05-2010, 09:11 AM

Damn, big difference! Is the entire dividing wall removed out of that one?

Yes, that one was Cygnusx1's masterpiece.. here is the one I made for the B20a
I added those divots to help eliminate pooling under the 38 Weber but after a summer of using it that way I think it actually richens the mixture too much once the outside temps get under 70 degrees or so.
Divots were to allow smaller pooling and quicker evaperation "spreading out the liquid"
I suppose yet another reason to use sidedrafts, meh
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/1223071132.jpg

jucky68

07-22-2010, 07:11 PM

How do I plug the one on the exhaust manifold?

Xaisk

10-12-2010, 09:19 AM

I have a question. How do I hook up the vacuum canister with the weber? I know the routing of the 2 fuel lines but it also has some vacuum lines that go to it.

SZfiftyfour

10-12-2010, 09:31 AM

Theres two vacuum ports on the back I think. One is for the vac advance the other is extra. Or you can 'T' off of the brake booster line.

Xaisk

10-12-2010, 11:11 AM

Oh so I can just unscrew that extra one with the little cap and run that to the vacuum canister? alright thats ez enough.

Xaisk

10-13-2010, 04:26 AM

So I took my vac canister out and noticed that there were 4 lines on it. One to tank, one to carb, and I suppose the 2 other ones go to the vacuum. Or one of em just went into a filter in the black box and just pulls air in.

Does the top one that hooks to the little solenoid go to the vacuum? or does that one just hook to a little air filter and the bottom one hooks to the vacuum?

Im going to look at my manual and see if it has the routing and what it does.

2oodoor

10-13-2010, 05:27 AM

I removed the canister on all mine and just left the vent tube hanging out of the firewall. There is a routing techique here somewhere though if you wish to retain the canister though.

86dxhatch

03-05-2011, 09:58 PM

Has anyone used the charcoal canister with a Weber yet? I would think that its purpose, "scavenging vapors" would help improve mileage?

I would like to retain it with the Weber, but don't know what to do with routing the lines.

I kept my vacuum bottle and just hooked up both ports to manifold vac.

Any help with the hose routing would be awesome.

Also, anyone know where the big tube coming out of the bottom goes to? Fuel tank?

thered56

08-03-2011, 01:38 PM

CzEcHy

08-03-2011, 01:52 PM

It can be, its just a vaccum port really but I believe using it for the egr is its purpose, tho not using egr is fine also.

CzEcHy

08-03-2011, 02:00 PM

Phone double posted, sorry.

2oodoor

08-04-2011, 03:06 AM

I'm in the process of my Weber conversion, and know little about carbs, so excuse the stupid question. Is this (middle of pic) a vacuum line for EGR?

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/6636/img00651u.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/843/img00651u.jpg/)

Thanks.

You can leave the egr with nothing on it.
Why is that stud on the right so far up? How in the world did you even get a nut on it!
When I see these uneven lengths on the studs it reminds me that you can easily warp the whole works by tightening the nut as the stud is turning at the same time. This pushes the carb away from the adapter.

TotaledTL

08-05-2011, 08:23 AM

It appears he didn't get that stud, possibly the others as well, completely screwed in first. I would def. revisit that part of the install to be sure. Maybe needs to use a tap to clean out the threads-?

Did you use a stud tool, or the dbl. nut method?

thered56

08-11-2011, 02:51 PM

Thanks for the responses guys. I did the double nut, and used loc-tite. It seemed to me as though they went in deep enough. The studs actually aren't at different heights, the top of the one is just hidden from view.

So if I don't use the EGR, just cap both off? Would you guys suggest not using EGR?

TotaledTL

08-15-2011, 08:36 AM

They sure don't look to be at the same height in the pic-

2oodoor

08-15-2011, 11:26 AM

They sure doesn't look to be at the same height in the pic-

Me too, I dunno I guess it's the angle of the dangle is making me also see that side of the base lifted up as well.

charliefowle03

04-03-2012, 10:16 AM

charliefowle03

04-03-2012, 10:17 AM

https://plus.google.com/u/0/?tab=mX#photos/115007015488973413735/albums/5721303372527277489/5721303389403273986

2ndGenGuy

04-03-2012, 01:18 PM

So i just took an hour to read through the entire thread, and am still left with some questions unanswered....But for the helpful and knowledgable indivduals I own a 83 Accord Sedan Stock EK1, Auto Trans, 73,000 miles.
I pulled a Weber 32/36 DGEV off a 89 Accord Automatic
-Carb
-Filter
-Adapter Plates (2)
-Custom TV Linkage Bracket (See picture)
-Hardware

Questions?
1.)Do I need to purchase a new TV cable in order to set up with my Weber Throttle bracket?

No, I am pretty sure your TV cable goes directly off the gas pedal. (Maybe I'm thinking of my 81) If so, leave it as is.

2.) Do i Need to modify the Throttle cable in any way shape or form, i.e cutting, lengthening ect.

If you take the throttle bracket off of your carb, and fit it onto the Weber, there should be no need to modify the cable.

3.) If i just yanked this off another accord (Although an 89 not 83) will i need to adjust the idle screws ect.

It will probably be pretty close, but you will absolutely have to adjust the idle mixture. You might want to downsize the idle and main jets as well. But you should be able to at least get it running and driving with only adjustments to the idle screw.

4.) How can I clean this thing down, because it was sitting in a junkyard for who knows how long? But iverall on the outside it looks in good shape. (See Pics)

If you want to really clean it and get it right, buy a rebuild kit and a CAN of carb cleaner. Not the aerosol can, but the paint-can style of can. Take as many parts off as you can and let them soak in the can for a while, then pull them out and they should look as good as new. It will take the brass finish off of some of the parts though and they will look silver. And by replacing all the gaskets and parts while it's apart, you reduce the chance that you'll have problems. Junkyard carbs can be kind of a bitch if there is something wrong with it. Your adapter plate also will not work, but you could probably sell it to a member here for a few bucks.

charliefowle03

04-03-2012, 02:57 PM

Why wouldn't the adapter plate work? Its the same intake manifold bolt pattern right? I believe ithas three hex screws that go into the Intake manifold and has the plate that goes on top of that with thef our studs I think?? I'm not next o itnow but I thought the carb and adapter plates were the same for both generations? Some clarification please.
Also which vaccum is the advance on the distributor? I think I only see one that comes out the solenoid on the distributor. There will only be one vaccum going to the Weber then and that's the advance? Thanks abunch for all the help!!

charliefowle03

04-03-2012, 03:00 PM

EDIT!!! This is a DGAV 32/36, NOT DGEV 32/36..... there is a difference right? Mine has an Electronic chock it looks like it. with the red wire coming out the front.

Also... will o need and kind of return spring ?

A20A1

04-23-2012, 01:26 AM

Why is that stud on the right so far up? How in the world did you even get a nut on it! When I see these uneven lengths on the studs it reminds me that you can easily warp the whole works by tightening the nut as the stud is turning at the same time. This pushes the carb away from the adapter.

Done that before :facepalm:

I switched to bolts with a hex key instead of studs and used lock washers, next time I may just use Torx head. Check the clearance of bolt w/ washer with gaskets off the plates then you'll be safe using that length.

2oodoor

04-23-2012, 09:20 AM

So i just took an hour to read through the entire thread, and am still left with some questions unanswered....But for the helpful and knowledgable indivduals I own a 83 Accord Sedan Stock EK1, Auto Trans, 73,000 miles.
I pulled a Weber 32/36 DGEV off a 89 Accord Automatic
-Carb
-Filter
-Adapter Plates (2)
-Custom TV Linkage Bracket (See picture)
-Hardware

Questions?
1.)Do I need to purchase a new TV cable in order to set up with my Weber Throttle bracket?

2.) Do i Need to modify the Throttle cable in any way shape or form, i.e cutting, lengthening ect.

3.) If i just yanked this off another accord (Although an 89 not 83) will i need to adjust the idle screws ect.

4.) How can I clean this thing down, because it was sitting in a junkyard for who knows how long? But iverall on the outside it looks in good shape. (See Pics)

If your TV cable is indeed connected at the gas pedel inside and not outside by the carb linkage then you have to do nothing but adjust it at the transmisson after you're done installing the new carb. This can be tricky so feel free to ask and post what the details of what you're doing that isn't working.
Cleaning the carb inside is the most important thing here since there are relatively no moving parts in these other than the throttle,float and accell pump. Fuel flow throughout the carb is most important.
Provided your shafts are in good shape, you don't really need a carb kit to refresh these carbs, maybe a top gasket if you tear the old one up taking the top hat off. These are designed to take off a number of times using the same gasket. The power valve may need replacing and the accel pump diaphragm since those are organic composed materials that could rot.
Get some good throttle body cleaner and use the tube that comes with it to clean out every hole you can find. Take out all the jets and E tubes if you can, clean under them. Mark down where everything goes and what your jet and e tube sizes are, this will be important later on when you're wanting to fine tune the carb to the car.

2oodoor

06-08-2012, 03:36 AM

THIS Spiral bore adapter (http://www.lceperformance.com/Spiral-Adapter-Weber-to-22R-Stock-Manifold-p/1033028.htm) is interesting...
for a Toyota but the concept applies. 5 hp gain?

Here is a NICE Wiki Tech (http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/?title=DGV) about Weber and Holley 5200 carbs.
Very useful information!

A20A1

06-08-2012, 10:42 PM

Nice. I was checking out the DCNF from the wiki site. I remember some one here had one or even possibly installed one.

JKP

08-26-2014, 11:44 AM

I am rebuilding my 85 1.8L and had planned to put a reman Keihin OEM carb but it has become obvious to me that this will be too difficult and involve emissions parts that I probably wont be able to find ... ie thermovalves... Does anyone have a good list of instructions for converting to the Weber 32/36.
Also have an unused reman OEM Keihin if anyone needs it.

lostforawhile

09-03-2014, 12:42 PM

if you want a complete kit, you can go to the website for Pierce manifolds and they sell the complete kit, including the carb, throttle linkages, adapter plate etc, they also have them for second generation and possibly first generation

lostforawhile

09-03-2014, 12:45 PM

2nd generation kit WEBER CONVERSION K727 (http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=K727)

third generation kit WEBER CONVERSION K728 (http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=K728)

JKP

09-21-2014, 06:18 AM

That's money ! Thanks for the great tip on Pierce !

swifty549

09-05-2018, 03:21 PM

K728 kit: It looks like the throttle cable is routed to the firewall side, is that correct? That would require tight bends in the cable, it seems pulling from the front like OEM would be much better.

I've spent hours searching for pictures of a Weber on a 3 gen Accord and have found nothing.

InAccordance

09-05-2018, 09:46 PM

2ndGenGuy

09-05-2018, 10:32 PM

You could just flip the carb the other way... I always run mine the other way so the linkage is on the driver's side. Then it'll be pulling from the front of the car.

swifty549

09-06-2018, 07:36 AM

thread necro! lol

They make carbs that go either way, throttle on the left or right. The 32/36 I had was a left one so when installed, the throttle cable was on the drivers side.
http://i.imgur.com/MH9qDOAb.jpg (https://imgur.com/MH9qDOA)
As you can see, cable routes to drivers side, fuel line route to pass side.
Excellent, I couldn't tell from the limited photos and drawings available whether it could be rotated or not. I think the fuel nipple can also be reversed.

Thanks for posting the photo, there were a a lot of good photos in this thread I remember looking at, it's too bad they're gone.

swifty549

10-05-2018, 10:07 AM

I finished my Weber conversion, pretty cool! An easy job overall with a few snags. I machined a throttle cable mount and a swivel connector to avoid modifying the OEM cable and not use the included cable clamp. I switched the fuel inlet and had to fab a mounting for the safety return spring. I installed all new fuel hose and noticed the steel tube from at the firewall was 5/16" so I bought a fuel filter with 5/16" on both ends and avoided a step down hose coupler. After all that, a few cranks and it was purring like a kitten.

Removing the old smog crap was cathartic and there is still more crap to remove but I need to know more about the fuel pump and electric choke systems, there is some kind of logic involved there that I don't want so screw up. See obligatory crap removed photo :-)

InAccordance

10-05-2018, 12:10 PM

Groovy!

swifty549

10-07-2018, 12:47 PM

Engine bay pic. I made this throttle cable connector so the cable would go slack and allow the throttle to close completely. Also easy to disconnect and reconnect without adjustment. I moved to the inner hole to better match the transmission cable action, shift points are identical to OEM. (Edit: Shift points are better than OEM)

2oodoor

10-10-2018, 11:30 PM

Dr_Snooz

10-12-2018, 08:42 PM

Looks pro!

White4dr

05-15-2021, 04:09 AM

So last year I bought a 3g with a weber on it. This year due to bad gaskets I'm rebuilding the carb. I figured I'd take this time to finish the vacuum delete and egr delete. But I need help with the vacuum delete as I still want my cruise control, brakes, etc to work. After countless hours of searching on here I'm still near clueless about the black box, and the oil box that are underneath the intake. I'm removing the intake manifold and having trouble getting at the nut under the #2 runner so I was going to try to get it from underneath but there is alot in my way as you all know. I'm wondering what I can remove and leave off and what NEEDS to be replaced.
Thanks in advance

Dr_Snooz

05-15-2021, 09:28 PM

Well, as a general rule, you would not want to remove the vacuum supply to the items you want to keep. Nor would you want to remove power to the things controlling them. The Weber probably has a few vacuum ports on it so simply plug the cruise actuator to one and you should be fine. Just make sure it's not the ported vacuum source. Your Weber manual should tell you which one that is.

The brakes should also be easy. Just make sure the hose going from the brake booster gets connected to a big vacuum port on the carb and you'll be good.

As for the PCV system (the black box on the block), do you even need to do anything with it?

White4dr

05-16-2021, 04:10 AM

Well I'm cleaning up around My intake, I have the egr stuff covered I'm more just confused about the 2 white vacuum valves? (Is what I think they are) and if I can remove them while keeping my cruise. And anything under or around my intake that's not necessary I'd like to remove ex. My pcv system, I'm still researching to figure out that I can do with it. Also the black can near pass. Firewall, I can remove that right?

Oldblueaccord

05-16-2021, 07:03 AM

I personally would consider keeping the PVC system. its really a necessary item on piston driven engines. I understand you want to modify it but I would not just totally delete it.

ShiRen

05-16-2021, 05:10 PM

My cruise was electronically boofed, however it does seem to work if you only keep the vacuum line going to the servo. I had it working for a whole 3 seconds though.

Leave the black box on the back of the block and find a U or L shaped heater hose to go in top of it, it will vent to atmosphere, but no debris will get in it. Put a filter on the valve cover. Pcv valve can go in the trash.

You will need to connect a vacuum line to the vacuum port nearest to the distributor body for the distributor vacuum advance. It will need a vacuum check valve in this line... Or at least it's preferred, make sure it's in the right direction.

Plug all the holes you don't use that are going to the engine, you shouldn't need anything else. Keep a mental note of things go though just in case something doesn't work right with the hvac or cruise control. The ac doesn't need any of it's vacuum lines, the only unknown one I have plugged in is the one going into the firewall around the heater hose area, I just assumed it went to the vents.

Dr_Snooz

05-16-2021, 06:58 PM

Are you confusing a vac delete with an emissions delete? There's almost nothing that will improve by deleting your emissions components. The PCV system keeps your oil clean and makes your engine last longer. The charcoal can keeps your car from smelling like fresh gas every time you park it. EGR keeps your car from pinging. Etc., etc.

ShiRen

05-17-2021, 09:20 AM

Deleting the charcoal can will do nothing helpful, but remove it, keep it, whatever. Mine is removed but my tank holds pressure... It's not good, but meh.

Egr won't cause pinging unless it's equipped and stuck open. There is nothing good about egr systems, it was a bandaid in the beginning and a good catalytic converter should do its job. All it does is make the intake dirty and hot. Most new cars don't use it for good reason.

Pcv is required, but it can be vent to atmosphere without hurting the engine. The pcv valve on these cars are basically non serviceable, the rubber it sits in cracks and there is no replacement, it's a vacuum leak. Also, I too often see filters on the valve cover but the pcv valve still plumbed into the intake manifold... That's a vacuum leak. If one side is to atmosphere, the other side should be as well. You can add a catch can connected to both ends and vent it to atmosphere or plumb it to the intake and that will filter out a lot of the oil particulates, but it's another part that requires maintenance.

Not like these cars came with smog pumps, so not much else there in the emissions realm besides the cat, but that should just be replaced with a magnaflow and forgotten

HMM

03-24-2022, 11:51 AM

Anyone have step by step install directions for the weber carb? I just bought an 88 accord from a coworker with a bad carb. I've ordered a 38 DGES kit (K 728-38) from redlineweber.com that will hopefully be here next week. I've looked through a lot of threads and most don't have the install pics anymore sadly... Any help would be appreciated!

ShiRen

03-25-2022, 03:58 AM

Follow the vacuum delete thread, afik the only vacuum lines you need are the power valve on the carb and the distributor vacuum advance, both of these tee together and go to any port on the manifold.

Dr_Snooz

03-25-2022, 08:42 PM

Brake booster?

ShiRen

03-28-2022, 04:12 AM

Pretty sure the brake booster comes off its own big nipple on the main vacuum tee on the back of the intake manifold. So, its pretty obvious you can just do whatever you want with it.

HMM

03-30-2022, 02:19 PM

So I have a few questions on my Weber install that I hope y’all can help me with…

Do you plug this hot air pipe or remove it at the exhaust header and block it off somehow? And what is the other valve with two vacuum lines, do I just leave it venting to atmosphere?
11079

And what is this connection? And the vacuum line in the pic also? Might be the coolant line, unsure it goes underneath the intake manifold:
11080

And lastly in the install directions in a thread I was reading said to connect choke wire from harness to new choke, where is that at?

HMM

03-30-2022, 02:28 PM

Oh and to make sure I’m right on this one, I plug the nipple that doesn’t have a vacuum line on it and the other one goes to the back of the carb, correct?

11081

Dr_Snooz

03-30-2022, 09:09 PM

That hot air pipe from the manifold you can remove. I'd doubt there's any hole at the other end to block off.

I haven't done this conversion, so if someone else contradicts me later, then listen to them.

Generally speaking, however, anything that still needs vacuum (like the brake booster or distributor advance), you can plug into almost any available vacuum port on the new carb. The only exception is if there's a ported vacuum port on the new carb, which should only be used for a ported advance distributor, which I'm pretty sure Honda never used. Just block that vac port off and use a tee if you run out of the other ports. The choke wire will plug into an electric choke. If your new carb doesn't have an electric choke on it, then there's nothing to be done.

That's really all there is to it. You just need it to run at this point. If there are old sensors missing vac lines, or random wires no longer plugged in, it doesn't really matter as long as it runs well enough (and you don't have vacuum leaks). It will probably not run as well as the original carb, however. You've removed a lot of the magic Honda put on it to make it civilized. You might notice weirdness here and there, like high altitude cold starts are more protracted, but that should be rare.

Post a vid when you get it running.

ShiRen

03-31-2022, 04:53 AM

It looks like you are on the right track. The vacuum nipple thing coming off the thermostat housing can be left alone. You can delete the hot air pipe, I don't think it is necessary and it is difficult to remove and will require a plug in the exhaust manifold and a block off plate on the manifold. There are 3 coolant lines on the manifold, I am unsure what you do with them for a weber because I believe they all come together at the carb. The 2 large lines on the sides flow through the manifold, the one underneath goes through the carb and meets up in the manifold. I prefer to plug the center carb line and connect the other 2 together, bypassing the manifold, I don't think they are necessary and doing so will prevent leaks. Your region of this dirt is no colder than mine, but make sure you know how to handle a stuck throttle if the carb ever so happens to ice. And I think you have the lines on the dizzy right, but it goes back to the manifold, anywhere you like as long as there is full vacuum, it only tees to the carb if your weber has a vacuum power valve, I don't remember if they do, but if they do it will have a very obvious vacuum nipple on it.

Dr_Snooz

03-31-2022, 06:44 AM

I'm pretty sure that air pipe runs from a baffle on the exhaust manifold to a door on the (old) air filter. Unless these setups are really atypical.

ShiRen

03-31-2022, 10:05 AM

Oooooh, I didn't look at the picture well enough... yeah, he can't even use that with the weber, only with the stock air cleaner

So just pull that off the exhaust, no plugging anyting

HMM

03-31-2022, 02:04 PM

Yep, once I pulled it I felt in there and it was just to direct some hot air up. I got to looking at the old carb and found that electrical connection went to the stock carb’s choke so I made an extension wire and plugged it into the Weber’s choke. And with the help of the coolant pressure tester, that other vacuum hose was actually the coolant line I had to plug. I threw a bolt in it and put a worm gear clamp on it. Didn’t have any aluminum bar stock laying around to I used an old piece of corian countertop I had laying around and used that for a block off plate. Probably not the best block off plate but it works.

The moment of truth scared the crap out of me because she went to 6k rpms real quick (I had the throttle cable too tight). After some adjustment and re-engineering of my cable set it I had the rpms under control. I robbed the parts off the old carb and bolted them to the new carb. After idling for a bit I took a trip around the neighborhood a couple times before venturing out into the wild. Made a loop around which is about 3 miles and parked her. I think she’s good to go. Thanks for all the help! I’ve got just under $2k in this thing and couldn’t be happier. I bought it from the original owner and it has been garage kept it’s whole life. She should make a fine daily beater and reminds me of my college years since my buddy had one in college.