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superaccord
04-29-2002, 07:39 AM
where can my friend buy a weber carb for his 87 accord? and how much is it? thanks.
matt

87accordlxi
04-29-2002, 07:53 AM
If you want to get the weber carburettor kit for your accord, you can go on this website

Make sure you get the whole thing with the correct adapter plate.

Weber Carburetor (http://www.racetep.com/weber.html#carbs)

You can also get different jet kits for the carb Jet Kit (http://www.racetep.com/weber.html)


when we get our new FAQ going, that's gonna be in there :)

RCracer
04-29-2002, 11:58 AM
Hi
Ive got the carb well Ive got a 38dgas (couple of) but cant find the adaptor for the manifold.
I emailed WWW.carbs.net and haven received a reply.
Has anyone got a part number or something & is there a linkage kit etc?
Thanks

PhydeauX
04-29-2002, 12:50 PM
Have you managed to find any weber supliers in the uk? Any shop that carries weber parts should be able to get them, and sourceing them localy will save you a bit in shipping and customs. I forget the part number off hand, but I know I posted it on the old old board http://pub63.ezboard.com/b3gs somewhere. Personaly I don't like carbs.net, pierce manifolds (www.piercemanifolds.com) is a good place, their catalog sucks but call them up on the phone and they'll have the answers you need (they only take phone orders, no online order system). Topend (www.webercarbs.com) is also a decent place, thats where I got my adapter and jetting kit from. They put together a jetting kit for the dgv, I don't know about the dgs but you could ask. Your most likely going to need to rejet the carb to use it on your motor.

andy

CoAsTeR
05-01-2002, 05:56 AM
What will a weber carb do for you? is it worth the investment? With NO other mods to the car, and I add the carb, will it potentially damage anything?

CoAsTeR

CARBurn
05-01-2002, 11:59 PM
I installed the weber carb today, I have it backwards with the idle/mixture screw facing the front of the car. I tried to have them facing the firewall but I couldn't locate a place where to put the throttle return spring bracket. Anyhow when i tried to start the car the first couple of times it would start but then die on me. The after that, I would turn the key and it would just not turnover at all. I noticed after checking my spark plugs that they are wet so now I have caused flooding from trying to start several times. I checked all around the engine bay to see if i missed something. I checked several times to see if I plugged all the vaccum hoses up except for the vaccum advance line farthest from the distributor.
I do think i am missing one thing the brake booster, how can i locate it to see if it connected?

I've been at this all day and will be out tomorrow to look for the source for the problem. Any help would be appreciated.

A20A1
05-02-2002, 12:05 AM
The brake booster is a big vaccum line connected to the rear of the intake manifold...

CARBurn
05-02-2002, 12:20 AM
In the back of the intake manifold, there is this line that comes out with two ports sticking out of it, is one of them it?

Do you have any idea what could be the cause of it not starting?

Don87LX
05-02-2002, 12:12 PM
Chek and make sure the wet spark plugs are wet with gas or coolant. In my Intake manifold there was a hole where the gasket went between the intake man. and the adapter bracket that had to plugged becasue it was dumping coolant into the intake manifold. This caused my cat to seem to be running very rich soak the plugs. After the hole was plugged, the coolant was kept out and the car ran great.

CARBurn
05-02-2002, 03:26 PM
Yep, my spark plugs where wet gas, i could tell from the way they looked.
I know that hole, there is coolant coming out of it, it is right on the intake manifold, So you plugged it up?

I wasn't sure what to do with it being there i just put the sealant and gasket on and left it, hmmm I wonder if that was the cause?
Got the weber running sort of, with the help of some friends, but out of the exhaust was a whole cloud of white smoke, checked my oil dipstick to find the it was all creamy, from the mixture of oil, gas and fuel i guess. Come to find out my head gasket went.

So i spent all that time installing the thing only to have the head gasket go, what a waste.

Now I looking for a new motor, got some leads and have come across an 89 accord with only 78k miles.

I'm gonna have to do something, cuz I need my car.

AccordChemist
05-02-2002, 04:22 PM
um youre getting a new engine because you blew your head gasket? dont make sense...just replace your head gasket...or am i missing something here? :rolleyes:

Don87LX
05-02-2002, 05:01 PM
Damn that blows (no pun intended)


but yeah just plugged it up and life is great. I think it was to heat the base of the old Keihin carb.

CARBurn
05-02-2002, 05:14 PM
Originally posted by mike89lxi
um youre getting a new engine because you blew your head gasket? dont make sense...just replace your head gasket...or am i missing something here? :rolleyes:

I am looking into getting a new engine because at the advice of my mechanic who looked at my car, I have over 200K, even if a new head gasket was put in, there could be other problems that could occur with the age and mileage of the engine. And he would still have to see if the head on the engine was still good condition before just putting a new seal on. Because of this he advised I would be better if I just swap in another motor. He has already given me a price on a low mileage motor which I found to be reasonable compared to spending hundreds on repairing the high mile motor I currently have.

Oh yeah, if and when I do get the motor, I'm definitely going to put the weber on there. The sound that car made at WOT, truly blew me away.

PhydeauX
05-02-2002, 07:44 PM
Got to a junkyard, get a lowmilage 88-89 lx-i motor exhaust manifold and down pipe. Bolt you carbed intake on it and drop it in.

andy

CARBurn
05-03-2002, 12:45 AM
Thanks for the advice and info, I never even thought of trying to get an motor out of an Lx-i.
So get an Lxi motor (w/ low miles of course) and remove the FI intake off and bolt the carb intake and weber carb on. Isn't that what you did? The way you said it makes it sound like a simple switch, but afterspend almost 2 days plugging up all those lines and what not on my Carbed motor to hook up the weber nothing seems very easy. I know the EFI does not have the exact same setup as the carburetor, but am I following the same procedure when I was converting to the weber?

I already have an aftermarket header and some other mods that I could transfer over to a new motor.

I guess you suggested the 88-89 efi motor due to its higher compression vs other motors from the same generation?

PhydeauX
05-03-2002, 08:55 AM
The head and block are the same on both the efi and the carbed except for slightly higher compressoin pistons. Putting the motor in will be a direct bolt in. Since you have a header, don't worry about the lx-i's exhaust manifold its better then the carb manifold, but its not a header. You need to swap the thermostat houseing and the distributor over from the carbed engine aswell, they also just bolt on. There are no major mods or fabrications to make it work. Everything will fit in there just like it was with the carbed motor and it will all look the same, except for a difrent valve cover. There are actually only a few vacuume lines you have to plug with the weber. You only need to plug the ones coming from the manifold, everything else doesn't matter. There are a few diferent desigens for the 3g manifold so I won't go into which ones. Just look at the manifold when you have it off, you'll see them. Yeah I do have an 88 lx-i motor thats been converted to carb, and yes I am suggesting it because of the higher compression. Its not that much of a gain, but its not going to cost you more to put a carb converted lx-i motor then it will to put in a carbed motor. So you might as well take a little power increase with it.

andy

Don87LX
05-03-2002, 11:20 AM
As I was putting my carb back on after replacing the gaskets I noticed next to where I plug in my distributor advance there is a second vaccuum port thats capped up. Whats that one for?

Oh and BTW could a PCV valve cause a low RPM stumble? I'm still trying to track down my rare low rpm stumble. I'm narrowed down to small idle jet in the carb or maybe the PCV valve. Pretty sure its the Jet. I think my mixture screw is like 3 to 3.5 turns out from the carb...dammit.

Don87LX
05-03-2002, 12:52 PM
No on the pack of the weber carb it self. My advance hose goes to one brass tube on the back of the weber, then right next to it there is another brass vaccum tube that is capped. Whats that for? Damn I knew I should taken a pic when I had it off of there.

CARBurn
05-03-2002, 01:30 PM
Just came in from motor shopping.
Andy, I was just going to ask you about the distributor install since I know the EFI Accords come with the Toyo Distributor and Carbs can come with either a hitachi or toyo, mines by the way is an hitachi, I didn't know If I could just swap my distributor into the efi motor.

One junk yard had 3 EFI engines all w/o the distributor and I wasn't sure if i could just install mine on there so I didn't buy them. Then I read your post, oh well.

I went to other places but no one had any accord engines or they told me they weren't sure if they had any in their yard.

For convenience and time, I went with somebody who is willing to sell me an carbed 89 engine with only 78,000 miles. Will have it by tomorrow.
I really wanted to go with the 88-89 efi, but o'well, I didn't plan on having my head gasket go after installing the weber

I really appreciate the info though, cuz I definitely want to do what you did with the the EFI motor. I'll keep the swap in mind for a future project on my current accord or if i decide to buy another DX/LX model and use it as a project.

CARBurn
05-03-2002, 04:44 PM
Yep i know what you are talking about it is another brass tube located right next to the brass vacuum advance tube you hook up from your distributor.

A20a1, didn't you tell me that was the fast idle cam screw? or is it the screw behind the choke?

PhydeauX
05-03-2002, 09:25 PM
Its not much of a gain going from the carbed to the efi pistons, the extra .3:1 in compression will only net a few hp. Since you already have a good carbed motor coming you might as well stick with it. Spending money on other mods will net you more hp then swaping to a lxi block.

andy

PhydeauX
05-03-2002, 09:41 PM
Dunno, mine only has one vacuume port. The rare stumble could be the pcv, but its usually more noticeable when it goes bad. Its mostly likely a small vacuume leak. One thing I noticed on my carb adapter was that it had two of the corners choped off next to the carb studs. I though it was just a fluke in the way mine was made, I didn't think they would actually want it like that. If your's has that then that could be the problem. It was the source of my crappy fluctuateing idle (mine was very bad though). The bas of the dgv carb isnt flat, it has some ridges and channels ect, you've seen it and should know what I am talking about. The cut off corners are cut so a tiny bit of the channel area hangs over the side, so the gasket doesn't quite seal. Test to see if its leaking, spray some carb cleaner around the area and see if the speed goes up. An easy fix for it if it is leaking is to get a spacer. I think they sell them at pierce (www.piercemanifolds.com) but their catalog isnt the greatest, email them and ask. Or you can make one, you need a 36mm hole saw, some semi thick metal plate, a saw, and a drill. Just trace the carb base gasket onto the metal and cut it into the shape of the gasket.

andy

Don87LX
05-04-2002, 05:14 AM
Yeah mine has those odd angled corners. I just made some new gaskets out of the cork and rubber 'Engine Seal' paper from advance. Maybe that will help with the seal in that area. I'll check for a leak when I think about it. My idle however is dead on, so I guess if its leaking its not leaking much. I just need to get a damn vac guage!!:)

88Burner
05-06-2002, 06:09 AM
I'm thinking of doing it... any thoughts on the 38 DGES? It uses the same adapter, correct?

CARBurn
05-08-2002, 12:38 AM
I finally got the weber carb running, it took a while cuz I had to check and recheck lines and other stuff. She does start, now I just need to smooth out the idle and tune the carb a bit and then I'll have my car back. :D

Don87LX
05-08-2002, 07:30 AM
Sweet man. Congrats. Did you end up plugging that spot on the manifold?

CARBurn
05-08-2002, 08:09 AM
Yup, found some type of screw that fit nice and tight in that hole.

POS carb
05-08-2002, 09:23 AM
get a junkyard 88-89 LXi motor if possible or hell you may be able to pick up a whole 3rd gen that's crashed for like $500 or less. Trust me, shit starts to add up. I bought a reman head because my cumbustion chamber was cracked and I ruined the head gasket twice because a screw fell in the manifold and the motor sucked it in when I started it up.

POS carb
05-08-2002, 09:24 AM
oh I forgot the brake booster yyou don't have to worry about because it doesn't plug into the carb, it plugs into the manifold so unless you swapped your manifold it should be still connected.

CARBurn
05-09-2002, 05:12 PM
Originally posted by POS carb
get a junkyard 88-89 LXi motor if possible or hell you may be able to pick up a whole 3rd gen that's crashed for like $500 or less. Trust me, shit starts to add up. I bought a reman head because my cumbustion chamber was cracked and I ruined the head gasket twice because a screw fell in the manifold and the motor sucked it in when I started it up.

Thanks, Phydeaux recommended the same thing but at the time I looking at 3 EFI motor, wasn't thinking because none of them came with a distributor,then I read a later post that said i could just install mine instead. Oh well...I keep that in mind for a future project.

POS carb
05-09-2002, 10:59 PM
spray where the manifold meets the head, I had a funny stumbly idle and it turned out to be the gasket by the #1 cylinder

Don87LX
05-10-2002, 04:14 AM
I'm not leaking vaccuum at all. Checked with Carb cleaner last week.

PhydeauX
05-11-2002, 09:44 AM
Low stoich isn't bad when cruiseing, as long as it doesn't ping. You'll need a bigger pump jet to stop it from bogging when you hit the gas.

andy

CoAsTeR
05-11-2002, 04:38 PM
Does anyone have a HOW TO install a Weber carb? I'd like to see how tough it is.
Has anyone put NOS with a weber carb? Is it OK to add the webes + 50 shot NOS on a STOCK motor? I don't want to do any damage...

CARBurn
05-11-2002, 05:38 PM
Pics of Accords with weber carbs installed, besides Phydeaux, I don't think anyone else who has a weber has pics of their engine bay, like a before and after pics.
I should get pics up once I get a hold of a camera. Do other members who made this conversion agree?

I want to see what other Accords with the weber in the engine bay look like, kinda curious.

Maybe this isn't the right the forum to post this, but I just had to do it somewhere.

CARBurn
05-11-2002, 06:01 PM
The weber carb is simple to mount since you only need to hook up one vacuum line from the distributor advance diaphragm and leave the brake booster hooked up. Everything else from the stock carb and manifold gets plugged. You still need to hook up the electric choke (if U get the weber one with that). U can use the stock carb to measure the distance from the throttle shaft and the linkage, and use that same measurement on the weber linkage.
Phydeaux had came up with a formula in which U can use the travel of the throttle cable(From the pedal up to the pedal down) that U can use instead to plot where to put the linkage on the weber). If I can find it and with his permission I'll post it.

Now tuning it is another matter, I needed some help on that one with a friend of mine who knew how to tune carbs, cuz they are tempermental:mad:
The performance and sound are incredible, especially coming from an Accord.:D

CARBurn
05-11-2002, 06:05 PM
Those of you that converted, did you change the type of oil you were using?
Someone suggested I go with like 20w 50 instead of 10w30. Any suggestions?

88Burner
05-11-2002, 06:51 PM
You can run nitrous with a Weber. There is an Australian company (http://www.ozrace.com) that sells a kit for the weber DGV. It's a 50 shot. Shipping the kit to the US costs 91 dollars.. but the kit is pretty cheap.

PhydeauX
05-11-2002, 08:21 PM
I still use 10w30 in mine, the weber wont effect what oil you need.

andy

PhydeauX
05-11-2002, 08:29 PM
Probably would be a good choice. I can't remeber what I have in mine, I think its a 55 and I lean out a little bit when I floor it at low rps. I just don't floor it at low rps, I have the 5speed though so I can just down shift and bring the revs up first. Give at a shot, just be for warned that the pump jet is like $15 or something like that for what looks like a little aluminum watering can. Its not always worth it to change it unless its really bad.

andy

PhydeauX
05-11-2002, 10:56 PM
Did you check them before you put the weber on of have they been like that for a while. Get a new set of denso or ngk coper plugs, don't waste your money on anything else, they're good and cheap. Keep an eye on them for a while and see how things go. A broken ceremic around the electrode can be a sign of leaning out bad. I dunno how the part where the wire got bent, did you bang it with anything while working on the motor, nothing wrong with the motor could cause that.

andy

AccordSi
05-22-2002, 11:54 AM
Yeah it uses the same plate. The performance of the stock carb is pale in comparison. I had a 38 rachet type weber and I can tell you that engine performed pretty well with it. On the down side, the increase in performance causes a lot more gas to be used so brace yourself.

accordsi

PhydeauX
05-27-2002, 09:30 PM
Don't hurt the poor weber. The isn't really anything to be gained from doing that. If you want to get crazy like that TWM (http://www.twminduction.com/) makes a velocity stack for the dgv. You can go right to the catalog by clicking here (http://www.twminduction.com/Catalogs/Catalogs.pdfs/AirHorns.pdf). Its pricy though, retails fo $250, unless your in an all out competive race class where 1/10ths of a second count its not worth it. I'd just leave it as is, you already have the choke removed so there isn't much you can do to make it flow better. Putting a rounded lip around the outside will help, but its not going to make any sort of noticable gain.

andy

ACCORD EX
05-28-2002, 01:02 AM
when i first read the topic ( hacking weber )

i said to my self ! stop hurting the car MIKE ! :( :p


MIKE

89accordtre
05-28-2002, 11:47 AM
This for all the people who have weber's. Im about to get a weber but i dont know if its worth it? Does it sound the same as a flipped lid? If not is it better or worse. Also does it increase performace. Also i need to know where i could order one.

PhydeauX
05-28-2002, 04:16 PM
I think it sounds great, nothing sounts like a good carb at full throttle. I haven't a clue what a gen3 with a fliped lid sounds like though. The weber has a nice throaty growl to it, and its a good performance gain.

andy

POS carb
05-28-2002, 08:24 PM
mike did you ever take pics of the adapter you made?

ACCORD EX
05-28-2002, 11:36 PM
how much does the weber approx cost ?

thnx

MIKE

toastyghost
05-29-2002, 10:50 PM
Any dyno available on the Weber? I'm still holding out for B20A swap but am still curious about carb options...

CARBurn
05-30-2002, 12:08 PM
Get the weber, it is definitely worth it. It gives the car some great pull especially if you have other mods on the car.

The cost can range from 350 to 399 depending on where you go to. Mine cost in the 399 range cuz I bought mine from a local speed shop.

CoAsTeR
05-30-2002, 03:20 PM
Where can I find a how to? I also need to know the EXACT model/spec of the complete kit (carb/mounting kit) so I can get one ordered from the local performance shop. I'd rather buy it from somewhere local so if I have problems I can kick some ass :) I'm up in Ontario....

I have an 88' accord LX, stock. Slappin' a weber carb on.

Thanks for the time guys, I'm sure this has been asked before, but I didn't see it while I was searching the old posts...

CoAsTeR
05-30-2002, 03:24 PM
What is 32/36 DGEV that stand for? I've seen it mentioned that I should look for a 38/38? What are the numbers I'm lookin' for? I want to get as much performance out of this as I can without killin' my motor.

BTW, is there cold weather driveability concerns with a weber? Up here in canada can get flippin' cold!

PhydeauX
05-30-2002, 04:13 PM
I don't think there is a how to, its not that hard though. Take of the old carb, vacuume crap, solenoids, ect. Bolt the adapter plate on, bolt the carb on, and hook up all the linkages. Then hook the vacumme line for the advance up, plug off all the other vacuume lines, and your set. Thats what I remember off hand anyway.

I don't really know what the entire name stands for, weber is an italian company and they couild stand for something in italian for all I know. 32/36 is the size of the bores in mm. The primary is 32mm and the secondary is 36mm. There are other versions of the DGV with diferent size bores. The E means it has an electric choke, there is also an A which has a coolant operated choke. If its just DGV then it has a manual choke.

The 38/38 DGS has larger 38mm bores and is synchronous opening, opposed to the DGV which the secondary bore doesn't start to open untill 2/3 throttle. The DGS also has the E and A vesions. The DGV is a good choice for a street car. Its has a pleasant manner, is good on gas and is easy to tune, but when you stop on it and open up that secondary bore it comes to life. I have personaly never used a DGS so I can't really say how well it would react. Its not going to have that big boost when its floored like the DGV, intead it has a smooth power curve through out the throttle travel. An advantage you get with the DGV is you can run it on the lean side in the primary bore to get good gas milage and then run the seconday rich for full on power when you floor it. The DGS has a larger flow and is going to be more happy on a higher reving engine thats been modified with some cams. Either carb can be used on the stock engine. The DGV is great, you'll definitely fell the gain. Wether the DGS is more of a gain on a stock motor then a DGV I can't answer. Your best bet is to probably just buy the conversion kit, esp if this is your first time. It comes pretuned for your motor (not perfectly, but its close enough to get it running good) with all the necessary hardware you'll need to make the carb fit and instruction (not the best, but if you have a clue on what your doing they'll get you through). As for performance in cold weather, it doesn't often get below the 20's here. When the carb was on my stock 83 it had no troubles in the winter, on my 85 it wasn't that happy untill the car har warmed up. That could also be atributed to the fact that I have eliminated the manifold heater and the cam doesn't help it idle any better.

andy

ACCORD EX
05-30-2002, 11:41 PM
thnx man ! :D


MIKE

CARBurn
06-04-2002, 11:43 AM
Aren't you going to damage the top of the carb with it hitting the hood?

staticpat
06-22-2002, 07:02 PM
can you use a cold air intake with a carb? i know people make custom intakes to suck in more air, but will the cold air not freeze the carb? there hard enough to start as is.

Guyver007
06-22-2002, 07:32 PM
WHAT? i dunno whats wrong with your carb dude but mine starts right up like it were Fi....CLEAN THAT CARB... GET NEW AIR FILTER An SHIT!

staticpat
06-22-2002, 08:11 PM
so you can make a CAI? my carb does start fine, except in the cold, hence the misunderstanding about cold air going directly into it.

s0crates82
06-22-2002, 09:14 PM
A20A1 is in hawaii.... I'm not sure carb-freezing is going to be a problem for him unless he lives at really high altitudes....

POS carb
06-25-2002, 08:32 AM
What the hell is your scoop for? Use it!!! :p

Seth Cooper
07-06-2002, 08:26 PM
I am considering fitting a weber or some other Carby to the EL engine in my 1983 Honda accord to improve performance, Is this difficult to do and how much more power can be derived from this mod. What else can I do keeping the original engine to get more power?

PhydeauX
07-06-2002, 08:30 PM
Thats about the only thing you can do to the motor. I had one on my 83 with an EK and it was a welcome improvement. I never dynoed nor ran the car at the track so I have no idea what kinda power it was making, but I did manage to out run a 1st gen maxima with it.

andy

POS carb
07-08-2002, 11:47 AM
a 34/36 progressive should work nice on the 1.8 (?) motor

Seth Cooper
07-08-2002, 05:47 PM
No it is the 1.6 EL engine.

POS carb
07-09-2002, 03:33 PM
even better :)

StolenKar
07-19-2002, 09:52 PM
Question for the prople who have a weber carb.. Do u have to disable the EGR valve to install it? I know there is a hose in there that connects to the stock carb. Also, how would u install a weber in a auto tranny situation?
Thank you.
:stick:

A20A1
07-19-2002, 10:02 PM
The auto tranny needs and extra cable to go from the carb to the trans so it can rigister the Throttle Value or "TV" for short.

Basically the more you press the gas the higher the TV and the higer the TV the higer the shift point is... shift point is also refered to Kick Down... basically its the point/rpm where the trans will shift to the next the gear.

the egr is disable upon installing the weber, but you may be able to hook it up again.

shepherd79
07-22-2002, 05:51 PM
any diff. in performance?
i guess it would be stupid to do this to the stock carb.

CARBurn
07-22-2002, 07:32 PM
Yeah, come to think of it, the flow in that plate could be better. Guess I'll have to ask around and see if I can get some one to port mine a little bigger.

shepherd79
07-23-2002, 03:49 AM
hey A20A1 have you thought about swaping 5 speed?
it would give you a little better acceleration that auto.

POS carb
07-25-2002, 06:22 PM
got any pics :confused:

Guyver007
08-02-2002, 10:58 PM
Does anyone have a dyno chart on a stock and webber car.. id really like to see the diff. in hps and i want to know the gain..i wanna know the diff between stock and one with a webber cause i dont want to blow my gasket or whatever the word is... MY ENGINE THERE HAPPY....

Shagen
08-03-2002, 05:02 PM
Hmmm, I would like to see the difference as well some one help us

Shagen
08-03-2002, 05:12 PM
What does a webber go for?

CARBurn
08-04-2002, 04:16 PM
I'm looking for a place to dyno my car, but haven't had any luck yet.

POS carb
08-04-2002, 09:18 PM
you can probably get the kit (air cleaner, manifold adapter, carb, etc) for $300-350

chronicsinners
08-20-2002, 05:36 AM
my weber is on the way via ups, and i just had a few questions for those who run one. ARe there any idling problems? Will the engine still be a s reliable or is it more prone to breaking down, basically i just want to know of the reliablity end of the carb. thanx

SQ is the SQUAD
08-20-2002, 07:05 AM
my car is about to hit the road soon and i am upgrading the exhaust system to an all pacesetter system. my thermostat housing go messed up and the only way i can see to get it off is to take the head off. i want to change the headgasket cuz the car did over heat a few times. anyways once i take the complete exhaust system off the head is comming off, is it esier to take the car off with the head? if i am pulling the carb off i minds well replace it/upgrade. the carb war ran alont time with no filter and it has a lot os dust in it from sitting in the shop for 9 months. pluse when i try to run the car it dosent want to idle so i just decided to upgrade the carb. any1 have any suggestions on what carb to get? i wanted a side draft but i really dont want to spen so much money. i was thinknig about checking ebay but i know nothing about carbs, what type should i be looking for?

SQ is the SQUAD
08-20-2002, 07:23 AM
will these work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1851559561

SQ is the SQUAD
08-20-2002, 07:24 AM
this guy has a lot of carbs, any good, on that first link if there any good lets do a group buy, heres the second link http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=alfa1750

Site
08-20-2002, 08:05 AM
The DHLAs are Dellorto's answer to Weber DCOEs (like PhydeauX put on his car, search for his postings). The DHLAs supposedly perform as well as the DCOEs, but are more difficult to find parts for. The DHLAs accomplish the same purpose as the DCOEs, but with a more modern (they have more plastic parts) approach. DCOEs have a more prominent name in racing. Both brand carbs are sturdy, and used models will serve you well. You'll want to rebuild them for sure, so even though the DHLAs are cheaper, consider that you'll have more difficulty getting replacement parts for them. DCOEs are easy to get replacement parts for, but are also about double the price, used. Phydeax had to have an intake manifold custom made in order to fit them onto his car (I'm doing this now, too). DCOEs and DHLAs fit the same manifolds, but that's the only thing that interchanges between the two. If you do this conversion, you will have great power gains. Plan on putting some time and $ into it, though - especially time to tune the carbs correctly. I think the whole conversion ran Phydeaux $600 or so. Look for sidedraft carbs (you'll need 2) that have 34mm chokes (main venturis) in them. You can buy the chokes and many of the other jettings later, but having them the size you need to start out will save some $. Man, I didn't know the DHLAs were so cheap! Go for it if you have the time!

SQ is the SQUAD
08-20-2002, 08:31 AM
so does webber make a manifold that fits our car that i can put a dual dhla side draft caRB ON?

Site
08-20-2002, 08:35 AM
No. No one does. Check out Phydeaux's posts on how he made his manifold. It's a custom job.
Go here (http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=41143#post41143) for links to his postings on it.

shepherd79
08-20-2002, 12:14 PM
unless you go here http://www.carbs.net/Weber/weber.htm they sell the kit that should just bolt on to stock intake.

Site
08-20-2002, 12:23 PM
The kit that www.carbs.net sells only works for the DG series Weber carbs, not the sidedraft carbs, which is what hondavtec was asking about. If he wants to go with a DG series carb, it would be a lot easier and more cost effective. But not more performance effective.

88Burner
08-23-2002, 03:56 PM
My weber idles very nicely. I make sure my air filter is clean and the carb is tuned. I got a used weber; I had to change the jets and I went through at least 5 different linkage setups before I was halfway satisfied with the feeling of my accel pedal. The only thing that bugs me is the right hand turn stumble and miss... but oh well, I've learned to adjust some of my driving habits.

chronicsinners
08-27-2002, 07:41 AM
if not there should be, let me know thanx

shepherd79
08-27-2002, 11:21 AM
i don't think there is How to install weber. Ask mike, A20A1 she has weber and he knows it from top to the bottom.

ACCORD EX
08-27-2002, 12:45 PM
no how to 's on the weber yet ! there just " where to buy weber " in the faqs ! :D

hope some one can do it ! :D

MIKE

rbeaud
08-30-2002, 11:22 AM
Can this Weber be made to work on a DX? I've found one cheap and thought it might be an improvement over the 32/36.

Cheers,

Roland

smufguy
08-30-2002, 01:42 PM
DX is a carb, so yeah u can.

rbeaud
08-30-2002, 01:59 PM
Originally posted by smufguy
DX is a carb, so yeah u can.

With money anything is possible. My question should really have stated, "Can this be done as easily as a 32/36?". There are kits w/ adapter plates for the 32/36. Could one of these be modified to work with the 38 or is a custom plate required (and how much might that cost)?

Thanks for the help.

Cheers,

Roland

shepherd79
08-30-2002, 02:38 PM
yes you can use the same plate adapter to mount 38, but you may want to make the primary a little bigger on the plate and intake.
ask A20A1 he has weber with regrind adapter plate and manifold.

smufguy
08-30-2002, 07:10 PM
how about another idea, get a A20A4 stock motor with ur webber. heheh 9.3 compression baby.

shepherd79
08-31-2002, 01:41 AM
he won't gain much, 88 carb has 9.1:1

chronicsinners
08-31-2002, 03:23 PM
ok i am installing the weber carb kit on my 89 dx and i have a major throttle linkage problem, The problem is that there is not enough distance that the cable pulls to make the carb go into full throttle position. do you get me? the pedal is on the floor and it doesnt open the carb to full throttle b/c not enough cable is travelling. Any help would be appreciated. Also what happens to all the vacuum lines that are not mentioned in the instructions are they just tossed? info on that would be appreciated but the real problem is the throttle. thanx again

chronicsinners
08-31-2002, 10:42 PM
yea if you could post a pic of that and an indepth explaination of what you did it would be greatly appreciated thanx

POS carb
09-01-2002, 12:47 AM
You need a shorter linkage then. Can you set the throttle cable lower down on the bracket?

chronicsinners
09-01-2002, 07:40 AM
its at the lowest it will go

tightwhitelx
09-01-2002, 10:04 AM
well i am thinking about getting a weber carb but i dont know anything about them will i really gain a grea deal in hp and how long will the install take? are there different sizes of the carb? somebody please help me lol lots of questions i am usually online but just email me at [email protected]

CARBurn
09-01-2002, 10:43 PM
I had the same problem, until Phydeaux showed his formula for distance from the throttle cable shaft. First, find out how much travel you have in your cable, from the pedal up to the pedal down(on the floor). Put that length in this formula:

Radius =Square root of (Cable length measured) divided by 2.

Basically divide the cable length measure by 2 and find the square root of that. And that is the distance you should be around the throttle shaft on the weber. You might find the pre drill holes on the weber are to far, mine were, and you would have to drill in a hole on your own for the proper distance. But this is the way I found I can get WOT all the time on my car.

Also, make sure the cable is pulling in a straight line to prevent binding.

By the way, I found my distance from the throttle shaft is around 2.4 cm or 24mm.


Let me know if you have any questions.

chronicsinners
09-02-2002, 05:51 AM
i might need some more help/suggestions, but thanx for the start. Any one know what to do with that large metal piping assembly behind the carb, is that stayin or going?

Carburn you live in DE? we should meet up some time if i ever get this damn carb running

POS carb
09-02-2002, 06:50 PM
PS don't do this with the manifold on the motor!
I know that sounds stupid but when you're modding your car sometimes you get caught up in the moment and forget shit.
:werd:

tightwhitelx
09-03-2002, 01:43 PM
if someone could help me i have some questions about the weber carb. my email address is [email protected]

87DXHatch
09-03-2002, 05:22 PM
Me and CARBurn had a very spirited conversation about them a couple months ago. If someone could find that post, I think it would help you out.

shepherd79
09-03-2002, 05:33 PM
hey guys,
does anyone knows how much cfm is weber carb 32/36 and 38?
thanks.

CARBurn
09-05-2002, 12:07 AM
Here is that thread if you wanna read:

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2944&highlight=weber

Hope that helps. Any other questions feel free to ask.

Experimental_Honda
09-05-2002, 07:00 PM
yeah so can some onw help me out and tell me how much a weber carb will help me out??? how much hp will i gain from 1?? i dont really feel like shelling out like 400.00 and it not really do shit. man i cant wait for my pulleys to get here!!!!!

87pimpsterdocious
09-05-2002, 07:19 PM
this is kinda off the topic of the post but don't forget to tell us if you notice a difference after the pullies.

Site
09-06-2002, 05:35 AM
If this is gonna cost you $300, why don't you think about going dual sidedrafts (like Phydeaux, do a search for his posts on it). A dual sidedraft conversion can be done for around $500, I think. At least that's what I think my total will be on it. I do a lot of research, take my time and find the right connections when I buy, though. Phydeaux has his car running the 1/4 in the high 15 sec range with his Weber DCOEs. That is a massive performance gain. With sidedrafts, each cylinder gets it's own carb barrel. It's kinda like quad throttle bodies on 4 cyl EFI cars. If you're willing to put some time into it, you should check it out!

Experimental_Honda
09-06-2002, 06:57 AM
thanx for the info. man im thinking it might just be more fun to get some zex......the carb sounds like alotta trouble and very costly, im just looking for alotta extra hp really quick and cheaply.i can get the full system hooked up and a full tank for like 450.00. i will be sure to let you know how the pulleys work. i looking into some bullfrog cams and a few other things so i can build up and not fuck my car up with zex.

Site
09-06-2002, 07:04 AM
That's cool. From what I've read, if I go nitrous I'll probably give Zex a try, too. I like the whole feature about the system controlling itself, opening up at full throttle, controlled by and ECU-like feature. Just sounds safer. I'm anxious to hear about the pulleys!

Experimental_Honda
09-08-2002, 08:14 AM
if i get zex im boost at 45 to 50. i want a button though none of the system control stuff. want to be able to shoot it in lower gears.

Experimental_Honda
09-08-2002, 02:59 PM
i might look into a weber, but i need to do some more stuff to my car before i get any high performance parts like boost or a weber carb.

chronicsinners
09-08-2002, 03:23 PM
ok well the throttle linkage problem is on the back burner for now, because the car wont even run, we started it for 30seconds and it started no prob, then it started spewing white smoke, no good, now no start, we still get a spark, but i have no idea why it wont start, any help would be great.
also carburn you live in DE where at? drop me a line

89AccordLXI666
09-08-2002, 07:36 PM
Can some 1 please tell me what a weber is... I'm knew at what it is, I know it's a stupid question considering a good majority of you know what it is, but some one please teach me some of your knowledge of what exactly what it is and what it does.... Thanks guy's... Lataz :-)

chronicsinners
09-09-2002, 08:14 AM
ok heres a better description of the problem, the car is running rediculously rich, because it keeps flooding, we removed a spark plug and there was gas in there, it was soaked, possibly one of the vaccuum lines isnt working right or somethin, im pretty lost, try to gimme a hand

CARBurn
09-10-2002, 12:38 PM
Originally posted by chronicsinners
if not there should be, let me know thanx

Have you PM Phydeaux? He was really helpful as well, when I did the Weber Conversion.

chronicsinners
09-13-2002, 04:38 AM
1) The vacuum advance line goes from the back of the carb to where? there are 2 lines on the distributor, one closer to the front and one slightly back

2)Did you guys hook up the vapor canister?

more to come im sure...

shepherd79
09-19-2002, 07:37 PM
yeah, you can see the diff.
man i wish honda had webers stock.

shepherd79
09-19-2002, 07:39 PM
what are you doing with keihin carb?

shepherd79
09-19-2002, 07:41 PM
when you removed your vacuum lines, did you nottice any power gain or better performance?
i am just curious.

Mantis88LX
09-19-2002, 07:56 PM
you can plug letter A, dont know about the others

shepherd79
09-20-2002, 03:39 AM
well aurodeckUK and I have been taling about, he is going to take some pictures of his spare carb with vacuum lines on it, plus he will help me to wire everything, so i will have something close as he has or even less vacuum hoses.
thanks for the info. i will use it to compare with paul's info.
oh, the other thing, how do you remove the heater plate?
what about coolant line that goes to carb what should i do with it?
thanks.

Site
09-20-2002, 04:29 AM
Another weber for comparison - LOL.
http://www.riverhillscc.com/lighthouse/dcoe_conv/DCOE_CONV_04.jpg

Site
09-20-2002, 01:07 PM
LOL! in the future it would be cool if someone (maybe me) put together a bolt in conversion kit for the DCOEs

dXsquared
09-21-2002, 10:07 AM
doesnt he have dcoes?
i think the 32/36 carb how to would be good. i am going to purchase a weber 32/36 DGEV soon and i guess i could make a how to.
Travis

dXsquared
09-21-2002, 10:25 AM
nope
Travis

POS carb
09-30-2002, 06:50 PM
yea, I always wondered why everyone would always get all hung up over the damn TV cable, it's totally seperate.
Got a pic of that new throttle?

2Fast4U86
10-02-2002, 05:19 PM
Okay, hi guys, so here's the story.

For the last, oh, I don't know how long, probably ever since I got it, my car has been doing the following - when I'm on the freeway and I let off the pedal just to get it to maintain its speed (at say around 65mph), there is a vibration in the engine. Pretty sure the problem is not drivetrain related, since the vibration isn't "even", but somewhat irregular. The car idles rough sometimes, too.

Having brought it to a mechanic, I was told that a venturi was "lose", and vibrating - turbulating the air- causing my problem. Solution - A carburator overhaul - $385, I believe.

Having looked up the prices on weber carbs, I got to thinking - why overhaul a shitty part, when I can swap it out for a good one?

This is pretty much a daily driver - having this car not run is quite an inconvenience. If I am going to do this, I'll get the kit from www.carbs.net (http://www.carbs.net/Weber/Dataresults3.asp?Kit_Nbr=K728&Model=ACCORD) - roughly the same price as the overhaul will cost me. I'm not trying to get performance gains here (altho if they come it'll be nice), just to get a well-performing dependable car.

The car is an '86 Accord, with an auto tranny.

So, here are the actual questions:
1) Realistically, how long will this job take me? Can I do it in a weekend? Will haing an auto make things difficult?
2) How much engine disassembling will I have to do?
3) Can I slap it in and drive it, or will I have to spend a week tuning it?
4) Will I pass smog check with this? Not sure if an '86 needs it.. never had it done on that car, actually. I aught to check California DMV laws.

Well, that's about it - hope you guys can help!

Thanks,

2Fast

2Fast4U86
10-02-2002, 07:35 PM
Please, show!

Anger... at mechanic... rising...

2Fast

2Fast4U86
10-02-2002, 09:29 PM
Thanks a bunch for your help, Mike! I'll try to do this this weekend, hopefully won't get into too much trouble :) {EDIT} Took out the stupid question about which screw the venturi are held on with. I sees them :) {EDIT}

A question tho - why can't I adjust/tighten those wit the top-hat still on?

Thanks!

2Fast

toastyghost
10-03-2002, 07:03 PM
NOPI has the same kit for $354.49, so tell the Carbs.net people and see if they make good on their lowest-price guarantee. :D

2Fast4U86
10-04-2002, 01:27 PM
Dammit! So the problems didn't make me wait long... in the following picture, the black arrow points to the screw I have taken out, the red arrow to the screw that I can't take out because it's blocked by the throttle cable support arm marked with the blue arrow. The thingie marked with the yellow arrow blocks the actual screw I need to get to to adjust, and it is held on by the red/black arrow screws. Gah!!! Any suggestions? I really don't want to remove the blue arrow support arm and all the shit hanging off of it... but might have to.

http://www.calpoly.edu/~ygisin/images/carb001.jpg

Thanks a lot!

2Fast

P.S. Dropped a metal socket head into the engine. it didn't come out on the bottom even after a lot of shaking. Hopefully it won't lead to bad bad things.

2Fast4U86
10-04-2002, 02:45 PM
ROFL... thanks, Mike...

okay, so here's the sitrep... I went to the store, both the 8mm and the 5/16ths wrenches look lose on that screw. Only in the store did I realize that it had flat sides - I took the first one with the philips... so about to go get... a small wrench... it's very tight area, a box-head won't fit on top of the bolt and an 8mm open-jaw keeps rounding off the sides of the bolt...

the thing I dropped in the engine isn't in the carb, somewhere in the area of the intake manifold.. so hopefully it won't make its way to the belts.. tried shaking the car it didn't fall out, so... not much I can do.

Hopefully I won't need to access the second venturi screw.. the one that's open is the one that I can shake.. and feel it shaking... maybe I aught to take the top off and see if the other venturi also vibrates... by the way, the vibraition on the one I can see is very very low... like, I can barely push it side to side, but yeah, there is a little bit of play.... as I understand that's the primary venturi, so likely that's the one that works when the engine is at @3k rpm just trying to maintain cruise speed..

anyways, off to the store to try to find a good wrench for this screw.

Thanks for the help!

2Fast

P.S. Throttle cable/bracked seem like a bitch to remove... there are 2 ?vacuum valves? with rods coming out of them on the 2 sides of the bracket.. nontheless will try and see if I can make that thing move...

2Fast4U86
10-04-2002, 03:44 PM
Update: Got a wrench that fit, unscrewed the bolt, moved the piston thingie aside, tightened the bolt that holds the venturi ~1/5 of a turn so that now I can't jiggle it, getting ready to put back together... Hopefully the problem was in this venturi and not in the second one and not somewhere else altogether :)

Will update once take it for a drive.

Thanks!

2Fast

2Fast4U86
10-04-2002, 04:55 PM
Update: The vibration is still there... it only appears at high speeds though... do you think it might be the second venturi?

Thanks,

2Fast

dXsquared
10-04-2002, 05:09 PM
ok...
this is mainly for the Weber gods out there.
i need only straight answers here.

1. when my weber arrives, do i just remove all the vacuum lines?

2. i know u have to put a line to the brakes and to the distributer, but do these need constant vacuum?

3. i ordered a nceramic header too so i wont have to worry bout those pipes...
what do i do with the holes in the intake after i remove those thangs?

Thanx
Travis

dXsquared
10-04-2002, 05:44 PM
refreshed?
no one on?
damn!
Travis

dXsquared
10-04-2002, 06:53 PM
come on!!!
Travis

POS carb
10-04-2002, 07:23 PM
you take out all the smog and vacuum crap, you can run a line to the EGR if it has an EGR port on the weber.
run a hose from the manifold (direct constant feed) to each of the distributor advance nipples for lots of advance :super:
leave the brake booster one on, it's the fat black one on the rear of the manifold.
everything else can be plugged. You may need to run a vacuum line for the carb's power valve, I don't know if it needs one or if it uses the base of the carb to get the signal.
Plug every unused port on the manifold (it's easier if you take off all those metal tubes and plug the base, leave a set if you want for the distributer and whatever else you want to hook up)

CARBurn
10-04-2002, 07:38 PM
I will reiterate what POS Carb said.

1. Yes. All of them except for the Brake booster and vacuum advance from the distributor (Don't forget the fuel line). You may have to label the electric choke wire if you are going to be reusing it.

2. Just leave the brake booster line connected to the manifold. You may have to buy a vacuum line to run from the distributor to the carburetor, thought.

3. Go to the auto parts store and stock up on vacuum caps, of various sizes.

Good luck on your project, and please ask any questions during the install.

A20A1
10-04-2002, 08:20 PM
OK here is the Venturi size for the Keihin vs the weber 32/36

KEIHIN:
-PRIMARY BARREL ~22.225mm
-SECONDARY BARREL ~31.75mm

WEBER:
-PRIMARY BARREL 32mm
-SECONDARY BARREL 36mm

Now tell me which carb sucks more... :D

2Fast4U86
10-04-2002, 09:57 PM
Sorry? I didn't drill the holes in the electric choke to get to the second venturi... the mechanic seemed to indicate that it was the first one (the exposed one) that was the problem, and since it was the one I could get to easily, I only adjusted that one.

So yeah :)

I guess all I'm asking is if you think that the "vibrating venturi" hypothesis is worth testing on the second ventrui - which I've not seen yet... I could take the carb apart (much faster now since I know how to do it) again and take the top off and try & shake the second venturi, see if I even need to break thru the electric choke to get to the bolt for it.

Cool. Well, thanks for your help again! At least now I know way more about carbs than before and have possibly saved ~400 bucks.. Thanks!

2Fast

Greg
10-30-2002, 05:34 PM
Man, I'm not too experienced with carb stuff, but I would think that your venturi would have to be really loose to make the engine vibrate.

Have you checked your engine mounts, including the damper arm on the back of the engine? I've worked on cars that get nasty shakes from bad engine mounts. A friend of mine had a volvo and the tranny was too close to the body of the car, making the thing vibrate nasty sometimes. I've never seen something this bad on a 3G, but if you have a collapsed mount then it could certainly do it.

I would check that stuff.

How rough is your idle? Does it miss? does it stutter?

Someone should correct me if I'm wrong, but I would guess that even if the venturi was a little loose, it wouldn't make things shake. I think that if the car is warmed up, the choke is open, and you're getting the right amount of gas & don't have a blocked air filter then air coming through the venturi and down the carb barrels would vaporize your fuel enough to get vapor coming into your engine.

I guess if your venturi was really screwy then gas wouldn't vaporize right and you would sometimes get a miss or part-miss that would make combustion on some cylinders uneven, giving you the shakes. But I've never seen this happening to the point where it caused a shake.

Has anyone ever seen this happen?

I would check my timing and make sure I didn't have a vacuum leak somewhere if I was you. I'd check my advance to make sure that it works evenly. I'd also check my plugs, wire set, and then maybe my coil if I really thought that it could be giving weak spark.

But if I had to guess, I would say probably vacuum leak, bad plugs or wires, or screwy timing is what I'd go after first.

2Fast4U86
10-30-2002, 11:17 PM
Will check that out. The venturis seem like a no-go, they were barely lose, and now they're not at all. I think I'll switch the plugs asap and go on to bigger stuff later...

engine mounts, timing belt were changed quite recently, wires about a year ago.

plugs have been on for about 1.5 years, so time to change those, I think. And to look at how they look.

2Fast

3rdGenFanatic
11-08-2002, 11:22 PM
The Subject says it all...

Mike's89AccordLX
11-08-2002, 11:26 PM
Are you talking about the Weber 32/36, if so it will be $369 for the full conversion. And if you do it yourself labor is free if not I would expect from $150-$250 for labor.

3rdGenFanatic
11-09-2002, 12:26 AM
I think I'll just do a weber conversion instead of a B16 swap, I'll prettymuch give it an overhaul, it has 217k on the odometer but it purrs like a kitten. How long do you think the conversion will take?:confused:

Mike's89AccordLX
11-09-2002, 12:35 AM
I honestly wouldn't know, I'm planing on getting a weber next week. I don't know whether or not I want the 32/36 or the 38. I read a bunch of stuff on both and I can't decide. The site said the 32/36 will need re-jetting with any engine mods and the 38 won't. I don't know what to get anymore. I wish A20A1 was online.

3rdGenFanatic
11-09-2002, 01:09 AM
Yeah I know... It can't take longer than 24 hours though because this is my primary car. The 38 would be bigger anyways, right?

Mike's89AccordLX
11-09-2002, 01:35 AM
I just read this redline weber website and I'm convinced that I'm getting the 32/36 instead of the 38/38. The 32/36 will give you better mpg and a nice increase in hp. The 38/38 will give you more torque but your top end power will be less. The 38/38 are also less fuel effiecient, but power is what we're after. The 38 will give you more power, but for some reason I'm stuck on the 32/36 carb. I read on how to adjust it and all the stuff that you can do to it and I think it will serve me just fine. And I plan email the redline site and request them to make an air intake. All that they make for them right now is 90 and above. But what I was thinking is that I could just buy the air cleaner adapter plate and find one of the civic intakes and cut some of the pipe off. I don't remember what year of civic it was though and how many inches you have to cut. If anyone knows please let me know. Thanks :bow: :rice:

A20A1
11-09-2002, 01:45 AM
http://carbs.net/airintake.asp

weber intake

Mike's89AccordLX
11-09-2002, 01:46 AM
Yeah, it's in the What's New category. I got it off the link from your site dude. Guess what I just checked ebay and low and behold, a weber 38/38 for $168 new and in the box. It's just the carb though, no plates or nothing I think. I wish I had the cash I only have $110 right now. I'm awaiting a $321 check from and a-hole that dinged my door.

Mike's89AccordLX
11-09-2002, 01:47 AM
It's a Weber 38/38 DGES

dXsquared
11-09-2002, 09:52 PM
here is a question... i got a header and a tri flow colt cam and a 32/36 Weber from NOPI. When I put the carb on, will i have to re jet it?

Travis

Mike's89AccordLX
11-10-2002, 03:21 AM
From what A20A1 told me is, that you have put it install it and run your car through some tests. He told me to buy this weber book that explains everything. I would assume with those mods you will need to re-jet. I think the book tells you what sizes too.

89AccordLX
11-13-2002, 08:17 PM
Is Weber the only carb out there or is there an Edelbrock or Holley that will fit in 1989 Honda Accord LX?

shepherd79
11-15-2002, 08:05 AM
oh crap, there goes my idea of dropping motorcraft carb. that sucks. so i guess i am gonna start thinking about weber.
oh that is sucks. there is got to be another carb that can perform as well as weber.

A20A1
11-15-2002, 12:28 PM
Yeah.
MIKUNI (JAPAN VERSION OF WEBER)
or
Mikuni/Solex
&
DELLORTO (ITALY VERSION OF WEBER)

2old_honda
11-15-2002, 04:08 PM
Originally posted by DXHATCHBACK
here is a question... i got a header and a tri flow colt cam and a 32/36 Weber from NOPI. When I put the carb on, will i have to re jet it?

Travis

I would like to know this as well. I have the weber on the car, and the header and cam are on their way. thank you! :)

2old_honda
11-16-2002, 04:14 PM
Does the float need to be adjusted on the weber kit for our cars? If so, how do you adjust it? What should it be set at?

shepherd79
11-17-2002, 03:57 PM
hmmm, well i guess i have to start looking for them on ebay.

89AccordLXI666
11-19-2002, 04:57 PM
I'm new with the carb versions of the Accords, n I was wondering what weber is, what it does, and what it looks like, and also how much it costs... Pics of one would be nice included with the info that some 1 here can provide me. Thanks to everyone who will give me support.. Lataz :wave:

89AccordLXI666
11-19-2002, 05:36 PM
Hey thanks alot Mike posting those pics of the weber, and thanks alot bro for the info. Serious Mike you are the greatest, with helping me out on the info, Thanks again.... Hey I also sent u a PM message too, don't know weather or not u read it yet, but I'm sure you will... Thanks Mike Lataz

89accordboi
11-21-2002, 05:12 PM
where can i get the best deal on a weber conversion? what kind of power gains should i expect? what exactly is a "weber conversion"? (:rolleyes: ) how much can i expect on installation?

smufguy
11-21-2002, 05:18 PM
check the faq my boy and do a serch. Webber conversion is just thowring away ur stock Kehin carb and putting a Webber carb in. Do a search, and check the faq and check the how-to. talk to mike (A20A1).

dXsquared
11-21-2002, 05:23 PM
or talk to me... i just did mine a week ago. it is very simple. all you need to buy is a peice of coolant line that is 3 feet long. if you get it you will like it for shur. PM me when it happens

Travis

A20A1
11-21-2002, 05:31 PM
yeah don't forget about those coolant lines. :D

1988starter
11-21-2002, 05:51 PM
I found this off www.nopi.com
http://www.nopionline.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=dspparts&vL1ID=0&makeid=140&modelid=010&catyear=1988&catid=0027&pcid=002&vTitle=1988%20HONDA%20Accord%20Fuel%20Systems/Injection%20Carburetor%20Kit
can it be used.

dXsquared
11-21-2002, 06:16 PM
thats not funny Mike! you didnt tell me and it pissed me off!!! GRRRRR!!!!!!

Travis

smufguy
11-21-2002, 06:55 PM
come on travis bite mike's head off, come on do it. i dont mind at all, bite him to pieces :D :D :D

dXsquared
11-23-2002, 09:13 PM
i have the weber on and the header will go on with the cam in the spring

Travis

dXsquared
11-23-2002, 09:18 PM
i did that already!!! he is now headless!!!

Travis

dXsquared
11-23-2002, 09:20 PM
oh shit!!! i have 911 posts!!! and i didnt even notice the submit thing was back... i am soooo tired!!!

Travis

smufguy
11-24-2002, 09:16 PM
hahaha :flip: bite me mike.

wckdonex
11-27-2002, 12:17 AM
i am definitely going to look into the 32/36 carb. i have had my 88 lx for awhile and been looking for some mods to do.

Mike's89AccordLX
11-27-2002, 01:17 PM
I just got it 5 minutes ago I got it open and looked at it and started drooling. I thought the filter was going to be a bit bigger though. Ahh who cares I'm gonna get the air intake setup from carbsunlimited for $167 Has polished adapter and intake pipe and filter. I know it's high priced but my girlfriends getting for me for christmas. Oh man I can't wait till monday to put it on. I am going to race my brothers integra right after its done. All he has is a muffler and a CAI. Read my performance mods, think I can beat a 92 teg? I beat him twice before I put his CAI on. I bow to the weber :bow: weber :bow: I just had to tell you guys!!! I feel like a chick on prom night but with car parts and me.:super:

Mike's89AccordLX
11-27-2002, 01:21 PM
Oh man I just noticed there's no stickers. Damn, do they normally come with Weber stickers? I might have to give them a call. Anyone need a K&N filter for a stock airbox? Let me know if you do.

dXsquared
11-27-2002, 01:24 PM
i didnt get any stickerz either. i wasnt expecting any but it would be nice. i did get a PACESETTER sticker with my header tho. it is like 1X2 inches! so small

Travis

89accordboi
11-27-2002, 01:27 PM
mike i want to know how it turns out cuz that might be something i will do to my car :)

Mike's89AccordLX
11-27-2002, 01:30 PM
I have stickers for like all my parts except my plug wires and plugs. Man you pay $330 and get no stickers. I might call them just to see if they can send me one or two. One for each side of my car. I hope it turns out like i'm hopeing.

dXsquared
11-27-2002, 02:17 PM
if they do... i want some for my car. maybe nate can make some... oh yah, he cuts not prints... damn!

Travis

Mike's89AccordLX
11-27-2002, 02:54 PM
I just got off the phone with them and they said that they don't send stickers with them. Oh well it's probably better people don't know what you have in your car. They will be reluctant to race you if they think they'll lose.

wprocomp
11-29-2002, 07:04 PM
I've noticed alot of 3g users are putting weber carbs on.I would like to know has to be done to adapt it to the accord,such as where do i get that carb with the adapter plate,and if there is any porting required to make it flow correctly,is there any moifiying to the throttle linkage:confused: and about how much am I looking at.I would like to get as much power out of the A20 as possible before I get my B18:super:

dXsquared
11-29-2002, 07:16 PM
the weber is availible at a few different places. i got mine at NOPI.com along with a header. if u have a 5 speed tranny, it will be super simple to install. when u get it, if u ever do, PM me and ill give u detailed instructions. it is basicaly a bolton, but u remove all those vaccum lines under the hood. if u want another bump in HP, get a pacesetter header at the same time. if u get the black one, make sure to strip it then paint it with a ceramic paint. so PM me with further questions

Travis

wprocomp
11-29-2002, 07:26 PM
Well I've got the pacesetter header but its an auto,also has anybody ever had a problem with the header gaskets blowing out? I had to get this frickin super duty metal gasket from NAPA and I had to mod it to fit my header.Does anybody know if there is a better gasket that fits in between the header and the head,its got a leak coming from there and it has a hissing sound while I'm cruzin.:stick:

shepherd79
11-29-2002, 07:48 PM
here is the kit http://www.carbs.net/Weber/Dataresults3.asp?Kit_Nbr=K728&Model=ACCORD
and here is same kit at NOPI.com
http://www.nopionline.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=dsppartdetail&vmakeid=140&vmodelid=010&vcatyear=1986&vnopinum=002%2B0363&vTitle=1986%20HONDA%20Accord%20Fuel%20Systems/Injection%20Carburetor%20Kit

those kits have everything for conversion, but they are designed for manual trans. if you have auto than ask Mike(A20A1) how he adapted the shifter on the throttle braket.

A20A1
11-29-2002, 08:00 PM
I have a short video of me fixing one of my ghetto rigged linkages. :D

2old_honda
11-29-2002, 08:58 PM
Originally posted by A20A1
I have a short video of me fixing one of my ghetto rigged linkages. :D
haha, post it. Do you have any pics of the linkage? I have never seen any pics of the weber installed on a car with an auto.

2old_honda
11-29-2002, 09:39 PM
nice:cool: good work!

KMS
11-30-2002, 07:27 PM
What’s wrong with a set of 4 carbs easy conversion and it works as a daily driver? All day every day?

KMS
11-30-2002, 07:48 PM
That’s no problem . I can make you one our you can call me and I can tell you how it is an incredible difference in power and my wife used it to drive about 85 miles a day.

2old_honda
11-30-2002, 08:02 PM
That’s no problem . I can make you one our you can call me and I can tell you how it is an incredible difference in power and my wife used it to drive about 85 miles a day.
I need a manifold for the dual DCOE carbs also. how much would you charge to make one?

KMS
11-30-2002, 08:07 PM
They usually run about $350.00 but they Are built on our 40 20 fadel CNC machine they can get a bit pricey if I have to Tig it.

Mike's89AccordLX
12-03-2002, 12:15 PM
I got it put on today and something went terribly wrong. The gasket that goes ontop of the intake manifold was wrong. It was supposed to cover up this little hole on the manifold. When the mechanic started it, the car shot out a shit load of anti freeze. It shot it 15 feet long. So we took the carb off and then we found out that the gasket was wrong. So he made one out of this cardboard stuff and now it works fine. It idles at 650-1000 , when it hits 650 the choke brings it up to 1500 for a bit and then goes normal. The low end power is fricken sweet!!! The high end power seems a bit weak, not sure though, b/c I haven't gotten it passed 100mph yet, I need a longer stretch of road than what I have. 4th gear doesnt seem to have what it used to, tell me what you guys think ok.
Overall I love it!!! I didn't realize how many tubes needed to be plugged.

Mike's89AccordLX
12-03-2002, 02:07 PM
Ok, finally the carb is in but I found out that one of the barrels isn't opening all the way when the pedal is to the floor. I was doing a top speed test and I could only get to 100mph. So yeah, what would be wrong? The gas pedal is really mushy too. Oh yeah does anyone have any spare clips for the air cleaner? The dumbass mechanic dropped one and fell somewhere in the engine. Didn't fall to the floor either. If you do please email me. Thanks. The idle speed is like 650-1000rpms. When the clutch is pushed in it will sometimes kill. I am assuming that the idle screw needs to be adjusted. I have a hunch that the mechanic didn't cut the throttle cable at all. With the Weber 32/36 does the cable need to be cut? I thought it did.

Mike's89AccordLX
12-03-2002, 02:50 PM
Oh crap they have the instructions still, I don't know which screw is which. Can someone tell me or show me a pic of the weber idle and air/fuel screws? Oh yeah theres this black box thing next to the valve cover that is sucking in air. (you know that silencer thing that had the little H on it, well this box used to connect up with the silencer.) Should I plug that too? I wish A20A1 was online now.

dXsquared
12-03-2002, 02:56 PM
i have a weber... give me a PM or go on MSN Messenger and ill talk to u there

[email protected]

or AIM viperblueaccord

Travis

2old_honda
12-03-2002, 03:04 PM
you dont need to cut the cable. you just need to adjust it to take up the slack.

go here (http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm) for the setup instructions

for the air suction thing you need to remove the vac tube going to the valve that controls it (there is a metal tube connected to it that goes to the exhaust manifold). and I think that there are two vac tubes that are attached to the black box that go to the intake manifold that you need to plug. (they are larger than normal vac tubes.)

dXsquared
12-03-2002, 03:19 PM
u spelled WEBER wrong in ur name thing... u put WEBBER!

Travis

2old_honda
12-03-2002, 03:24 PM
holy crap :banghead: :toilet: :lol: I never noticed that! god I am stupid :(

A20A1
12-03-2002, 05:01 PM
You may not have the linkage set up right... you may have to drill a hole lower on the throttle bracket.

I had some odd bits so I assume my linkage looks nothing like yours... it's totally ghetto cause I didn't buy the kit.

Grant2k
12-03-2002, 07:25 PM
i envy you. Oh i wish i wish i could afford a Weber.

89accordboi
12-03-2002, 08:14 PM
how much did u pay for it and installation? (or did u install it urself, i just want to know how much it might cost me)

Mike's89AccordLX
12-03-2002, 10:28 PM
I paid $330 for the carb kit and $250 for install. It's still not tuned yet. But it isn't going to cost me anything more. It would have been $200 if there wasn't so much weird shit happening with the gasket thing.

Mike's89AccordLX
12-03-2002, 10:36 PM
Yeah this mechanic is going to do it friday morning. He said he would have to rig something up so the barrels will open all the way. only 1 of the barrels was working and I thought it was still a hell of a lot better than the stock carb. The cable is on the top hole thing. He's going to put it on the bottom one to see then if that doesn't work he'll custom make something. I don't really understand yet about the black box. There's 2 metal tubes I need to plug that are connected to the black box? Do I remove the black box thing?

2old_honda
12-04-2002, 12:43 AM
no, there is a vac valve connected to the left side of the black box. you need to remove the vac tube connected to the valve (this will close the valve so it dosent suck air). then remove the box. there might be (I cant remember for sure) two larger vac tubes connected to the right side of the black box, if there are then you will need to plug them.

Mike's89AccordLX
12-04-2002, 06:02 AM
A20A1 can you confirm that? I'll check it out after my class. It just snowed here last night. The carb isn't running up to par yet and it still ran better than my stock one ever did.

chronicsinners
12-04-2002, 06:17 AM
yea that whole gasket thing led to the demise of my head gasket and two rings, that antifreeze went down the intake manifold. sucked hardcore, im very very reluctant to put it on after that fiasco that costed me 1600$. What do you guys think? put it on, or sell it

pimp86LX
12-04-2002, 06:20 AM
sell, get another for cheaper and try again!

:D

chronicsinners
12-04-2002, 06:26 AM
another what? accord? nah man, i just rebuilt the engine (due to the carb disaster)

PhydeauX
12-04-2002, 08:37 AM
Dunno how many times I have mentioned this but... None of the holes in the linkage that the dgv ships with are right for the accord. They just toss a generic linkage in there and the rest is up to you. What you need to do is flatten it, drill a hole about where the bend was, and then uses some washers to space it out so it doesn't bind with the carb body. I used to have the exact distance handy, but I lost that info. The pedal problaby feels weak because you don't have a good return spring. That one that comes with the weber is a joke. Go to pep boys and pick up a universal spring and rig it up for a better fee.

andy

Mike's89AccordLX
12-04-2002, 11:13 AM
phydeaux do you have any pictures of that? (custom linkage) Or is it the same as A20A1. Just a universal return spring? I was thinking about that black box thing too. What I did was plug it but then it somehow blew the plug off. I ordered a K&N filter. It's a bigger than the breather filter and it has a heat shield on it too. The filter is all chromed out! I have a K&N filter for a stock airbox for sale. It's about 5 months old. I just cleaned it a month ago too. PM me if you're interested.

PhydeauX
12-04-2002, 11:26 AM
http://68.81.249.80:3000/accordpics/weber_linkage.jpg

andy

Mike's89AccordLX
12-04-2002, 11:31 AM
Wow! dude you rock. Thanks a lot. And that was fast too. I'm going to show that to my mechanic. He has to tune it and make it work right. I already paid him for the job so he has to do what it takes to make it work. Thanks again.

Nate2310
12-04-2002, 01:51 PM
So will that weber intake that fits on the carbs work for our cars?

2old_honda
12-04-2002, 01:53 PM
hey PhydeauX where did you get the thing connecting the throttle cable to the linkage? mine that came with the weber is cutting into my cable and I need to get something different.

PhydeauX
12-04-2002, 02:24 PM
I got that at some autoparts store. It was a piece of crap and I wouldn't recoment it. I droped the one that came with the weber and it rolled off under something and I never found it. The best way is to untwist one of the 3 main strands from the wire and only feed 2 through.

andy

HondaBoy
12-04-2002, 09:09 PM
this is the site for the weber carb for 3geez. this first one is the carb, price, and other info.
http://www.weber-carburetors.com/Weber/Dataresults.asp
this is the short arm type intake.
http://www.weber-carburetors.com/airintake.asp
i wanted to know if ne of yall have one. wut is its part number? i needed to know if this kit will work on an automatic transmission. mine is auto:( . thats not all bad though. for neone who has a weber on their auto tranny 3gee, wut was your part number. if u have one did u get it from this site? has neone put there 3gee on a dyno with the carb kit? part numbers and where u got it would help me out when im going to order it. hopefully very soon.

2old_honda
12-04-2002, 10:17 PM
I would not waste money on one of those.

Mike's89AccordLX
12-05-2002, 08:26 AM
Waste money on the weber or the intake? The only reason I want the intake is because I don't want to make an adapter for my Weber and I don't think I could get it to look las good as that. It's way too much but that's why my girlfriend is buying it for me for christmas.

A20A1
12-05-2002, 11:48 AM
First check the height of the intake adapter... if it's 2.5" then you are good. if it's 3" then you may or may not hit the hood.

If the intake doesn't fit then you can always ask around and get an air cleaner lid that had an embossed Honda "H"?

as for getting the weber... do it.

as for being auto.
I suggest you look at your trans cable... it's on the left side and either goes into the firewall or it connects to the rear of the stock carb.

If it goes into the firewall you don't have to worry about anything and you can treat the installation the same as if it was being done on a 5-speed.

If it connects to the car you can do 1 of 2 things.
- find an junked automatic accord with the trans cable not connected to the carb.
(grab the entire pedal assembly and trans cable)

- make a linkage that will pull the trans cable at the same time you press the accelerator pedal down.

A20A1
12-05-2002, 11:50 AM
you have to buy the one for the 5-speed... they don't sell the kit for an auto.

A20A1
12-05-2002, 11:53 AM
86 - 89
HONDA ACCORD
2.0 W/ MANUAL TRANS
Kit # K728
32/36 DGEV (Electric Choke)
$359.95


you may want to try www.nopi.com it may be cheaper.

Grant2k
12-06-2002, 09:47 AM
BIENG IN COLLEGE SUCKS!! I HAVE BEEN WANTING A 32/36 FOREVER AND THERE'S NO WAY I CAN AFFORD ONE RIGHT NOW! someday......

Mike's89AccordLX
12-07-2002, 01:09 AM
Ok, here's the scoop on my car. The mechanic says my throttle cable is too short (so it can't open the carb fully) I don't know what to do now. I read some posts and haven't come across something like this before. I told him that I could probably figure out how to mod the linkage so it will work normal. (like if you have pics of your throttle linkage setups) This is pissing me off, I want it to work right. Tell me what you guys think.:wave:

Mike's89AccordLX
12-07-2002, 02:18 AM
Have any others that have had the weber conversion done had these problems? Hopefully, I'll be able to hit full potential of the Weber.

PhydeauX
12-07-2002, 06:53 AM
You already asked this. You have to attach the cable closer to the center of the linkage. Closer to the center, it doesn't have to move as far to open the carb fully.

andy

Mike's89AccordLX
12-07-2002, 09:44 AM
I gave the picture to the guy and he said that's how he did it and it still doesn't work. I'll double check just to make sure he wasn't just saying that.

Mike's89AccordLX
12-07-2002, 10:41 AM
Hey Phydeaux, was the throttle spring that you have called a spectre from pepboys. It's a throttle spring and lwr bracket for like $3.74. I am just making sure before I go and order it. And by the way thanks for all the help and support guys. This mechanic will never see me again after this is done.

A20A1
12-07-2002, 01:15 PM
hmm. thats stupid... I have a really short throttle cable... It's not the lenght that matters.

have someone weld the trottle linkage off the keihin... you have to remove the keihin shaft... cut the shaft and weld it to the weber shaft... pay close attention to the angle @ Wide open throttle the cable end should be at the very top.

A20A1
12-07-2002, 01:25 PM
here you go... this is what it should look like if you decide to use the keihin linkage. I'll try and get actual pics up later.

PhydeauX
12-07-2002, 02:52 PM
Well I don't think he got the idea of the pictuce. If you look at your arm and look at that one you'll notice that my cable mounts a lot closer. I drilled a new hole for it. Thats all he has to do. Well it has to be flattened first and it will need some spacers to keep things from binding. The spring I had is a Mr. Gasket dual return spring. It was like $5 with a bracket or something like that. It doesn't really matter, a spring is a spring.

andy

Mike's89AccordLX
12-07-2002, 08:05 PM
Ok, I looked at the throttle linkage really close and saw what you were talking about. He didn't flatten it out or drill a new hole. I'll be sure and tell him to do that. Guess what happened when I was supposed to meet Mindlos today. My car decides to get a little pin hole in a hose from the intake manifold to the water pump. Well I sold my K&N filter for $25 and the damn hose is $25, so yeah that sucks. Antifreeze and water were spraying all over my pretty engine. I got some hose bandage for a temporary fix till I could get home. It ended up draining almost all of my coolant on my driveway. I had to drive my brothers integra to meet him. That just blows, I got it washed and looking sweet so I could show it off, and then it breaks down. I think I understand how to do the throttle linkage now. I'll help the guy do it Tuesday. Oh yeah the hose won't get here until Tuesday. So, i'm driving my girlfriends pontiac sunbird. I cover my head up when I drive it because it's decked out with girly crap. Don't want to be seen driving it. Oh one more thing, the spring attaches onto that part I flatten down but where does the other end attach to? (the guy has it on one of the old metal vacuum lines.) It just looked like it wasn't supposed to be there.

PhydeauX
12-07-2002, 08:31 PM
Just attach it where ever its convienent. I just has to be something solid, preferably attached to the motor so the tension wont change when the motor moves.

andy

Mike's89AccordLX
12-08-2002, 12:41 AM
Well I found a Mr. Gasket dual spring throttle return spring and bracket. I'm going to buy it. I can't stand having my gas pedal that soft.

tightwhitelx
12-09-2002, 03:27 PM
i just got off the phone with a guy from weber about doing a 38 38 swap kit meaning that he would take the 36 out and put the 38 in he said he couldnt do that the 38 will hook up to the same adaptor plate but and this is a big but.. the linkage will not come with it so you would have to make one yourself my thing is will the link be hard to make? i suggest everyone to give this guy a call tomorrow we could make enough support that they may start making a 38 38 kit tuned for our car here is his direct number at weber his name is eric 1 800 654 2778 please everyone call him.

socal3rdgen
12-09-2002, 03:52 PM
does anyone possibly know or can even estimate how much hp a weber will give. obviously its not for me. im efi. im just curious. even a figure of like 5-15 on a a20 STRICTLY. not 5-35 hp 5 if you own a carb metro and 35 if you own a carb big block. :D

Grant2k
12-09-2002, 04:56 PM
Originally posted by socal3rdgen
does anyone possibly know or can even estimate how much hp a weber will give. obviously its not for me. im efi. im just curious. even a figure of like 5-15 on a a20 STRICTLY. not 5-35 hp 5 if you own a carb metro and 35 if you own a carb big block. :D
as far as i know nobody has dynoed one, but i have heard most estimates in the 5-15 range.

socal3rdgen
12-09-2002, 09:16 PM
Originally posted by Grant2k
as far as i know nobody has dynoed one, but i have heard most estimates in the 5-15 range.

thank you. like i said im curious. the reson i wanted to know is because 5-20 hp at max still only equals a accord efi. is it becuase its cheaper and less extensive then doing the efi conversion. dont get me wrong im not tryin to start a fight here im just curious. feedback please.

Grant2k
12-09-2002, 09:31 PM
Originally posted by socal3rdgen
is it becuase its cheaper and less extensive then doing the efi conversion.
yes.

socal3rdgen
12-09-2002, 09:37 PM
thanks grant

Grant2k
12-10-2002, 08:57 AM
no prob. i have to admit that is only judging from what i have read. but all evidence seems that efi is a HUGE job.

HondaBoy
12-12-2002, 08:39 PM
thanx. but do any of yall know exactly what i need to do. i mean do u know about that linkage. i have looked at mine and looks like the tranny is under the car. the throtle cable goes right into the firewall. so i hope this will help u to help me. anyone know? anyone with an auto with a weber? come on, i think there has to be at least one person with it.

dXsquared
12-13-2002, 01:02 PM
A20A1 has an auto... he is the guy that responded with all the good info...and he has the Weber

Travis

HondaBoy
12-13-2002, 02:40 PM
ah. i must have been reading fast.

2Fast4U86
12-17-2002, 10:18 PM
I'm sorry, I don't quite follow this... but are we required to get a dif. intake after spending the $330 on the weber, or can the standard accord intake be used with it?

Thanks,

2Fast

2old_honda
12-17-2002, 10:30 PM
the weber comes with a intake (open element filter that sits on top of the carb)

Grant2k
12-18-2002, 07:57 AM
Originally posted by 2Fast4U86
I'm sorry, I don't quite follow this... but are we required to get a dif. intake after spending the $330 on the weber, or can the standard accord intake be used with it?

Thanks,

2Fast
like 2old_honda said, the Weber comes with a K&N style filter. the problem is it puts it right in the hottest part of the engine bay. You can put in a Weber and shit all over stock carbed accords, but to get the most out of it you would have to make your own intake for cold air. you can't use the stock air box.