88Sleeper
06-27-2014, 11:11 AM
Hey guys,
I'm having a separate fuel delivery issue now after my 3G was sitting around for 7 months outside (starting late October '13).
Long story short, I figured it had water or something in the bottom of the 1/2 tank gas from all the time sitting outside (it had E10 in it, which apparently shouldn't keep in tank over 3 weeks?:uh:)
I ran a bottle of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool through those 6 gallons to clean it out. The car started and ran like a champ once it started to suck the fuel with B-12 (it was barely sputtering and stalled before that)
Fast-forward a few days, I filled the tank with Ethanol Free gas (87 octane) and 6 oz of lucas upper cylinder lube. Idle went down while I was fueling, but I figured that was due to the dilution of the B-12, which has a lot of volatiles in it (acetone, toluene, MEK, & something else <I forgot>)
Made it home, no problems, next morning, car won't idle when warm. Cold start is ok, but when the choke starts to open up as it warms, the car dies slowly, and finally barely turns 400-500 rpm before stalling out (lots of thick black smoke coming out tailpipe). When I look into the carb, there's fuel sitting on top of both choke plates. I'm thinking it is getting too much fuel?
My brother reminded me a day ago that I'd already filled up with E0 once before and had a similar problem, but this time it seems way worse (probably cause the B-12 cleaned out some of the junk and now it's dumping even more fuel in then before).
I read that E0 is not as thick as E10, so I'm guessing a larger volume of fuel is getting delivered to the carb then if E10 is used? I would of thought the UCL would thicken the fuel a little bit, but seems not...
Anybody else ever run into this problem? From what I read, E0 is supposed to be better for your car then E10, but if I can't warm idle on it then what would the problem be?
What I have tried:
-adjusting timing (that didn't help)
-HEET (figured w/o the ethanol in the gas to bind to the water, that the water was clogging up filters/fuel delivery, but didn't change anything)
Other notes:
I can drive the car like this, I just have to keep my foot in it to keep it from dying.
It accelerates just fine when the distributor adjusts timing for acceleration by itself, if I lightly push the throttle, it seems like it is back-firing/not igniting at the right time
When I slow down from speed, in neutral, with my foot on the gas ~1800 rpm, it runs ok, but when speedometer reads about 20 mph or less, I think a separate vacuum circuit is engaged, and the car starts to die out under me, so I have to push the throttle in more to keep it alive, but it is running really rough at that point (puffing black smoke, based on the way people stop 2 car spaces behind me).
I will have to burn through another 12-14 gallons until I can refill with E10 again to see if this persists with other fuel types, but that's what 'fixed' the problem last time I did this...
Only thing I've ever adjusted on the carb is the stop screw on the left side of the carb, under the filter tray, but that is to increase idle rpm as the vacuum valve in the dizzy kills itself over time, but from what I understand, that doesn't adjust the mixture itself, just how far the throttle plate closes, so it increases engine speed by letting in more fuel/air mixture into the intake, vs just increasing amount of fuel put into motor?
Any ideas would help while I run this deathtrap :rolleyes:
Thanks!
I'm having a separate fuel delivery issue now after my 3G was sitting around for 7 months outside (starting late October '13).
Long story short, I figured it had water or something in the bottom of the 1/2 tank gas from all the time sitting outside (it had E10 in it, which apparently shouldn't keep in tank over 3 weeks?:uh:)
I ran a bottle of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool through those 6 gallons to clean it out. The car started and ran like a champ once it started to suck the fuel with B-12 (it was barely sputtering and stalled before that)
Fast-forward a few days, I filled the tank with Ethanol Free gas (87 octane) and 6 oz of lucas upper cylinder lube. Idle went down while I was fueling, but I figured that was due to the dilution of the B-12, which has a lot of volatiles in it (acetone, toluene, MEK, & something else <I forgot>)
Made it home, no problems, next morning, car won't idle when warm. Cold start is ok, but when the choke starts to open up as it warms, the car dies slowly, and finally barely turns 400-500 rpm before stalling out (lots of thick black smoke coming out tailpipe). When I look into the carb, there's fuel sitting on top of both choke plates. I'm thinking it is getting too much fuel?
My brother reminded me a day ago that I'd already filled up with E0 once before and had a similar problem, but this time it seems way worse (probably cause the B-12 cleaned out some of the junk and now it's dumping even more fuel in then before).
I read that E0 is not as thick as E10, so I'm guessing a larger volume of fuel is getting delivered to the carb then if E10 is used? I would of thought the UCL would thicken the fuel a little bit, but seems not...
Anybody else ever run into this problem? From what I read, E0 is supposed to be better for your car then E10, but if I can't warm idle on it then what would the problem be?
What I have tried:
-adjusting timing (that didn't help)
-HEET (figured w/o the ethanol in the gas to bind to the water, that the water was clogging up filters/fuel delivery, but didn't change anything)
Other notes:
I can drive the car like this, I just have to keep my foot in it to keep it from dying.
It accelerates just fine when the distributor adjusts timing for acceleration by itself, if I lightly push the throttle, it seems like it is back-firing/not igniting at the right time
When I slow down from speed, in neutral, with my foot on the gas ~1800 rpm, it runs ok, but when speedometer reads about 20 mph or less, I think a separate vacuum circuit is engaged, and the car starts to die out under me, so I have to push the throttle in more to keep it alive, but it is running really rough at that point (puffing black smoke, based on the way people stop 2 car spaces behind me).
I will have to burn through another 12-14 gallons until I can refill with E10 again to see if this persists with other fuel types, but that's what 'fixed' the problem last time I did this...
Only thing I've ever adjusted on the carb is the stop screw on the left side of the carb, under the filter tray, but that is to increase idle rpm as the vacuum valve in the dizzy kills itself over time, but from what I understand, that doesn't adjust the mixture itself, just how far the throttle plate closes, so it increases engine speed by letting in more fuel/air mixture into the intake, vs just increasing amount of fuel put into motor?
Any ideas would help while I run this deathtrap :rolleyes:
Thanks!