oil pan plug tends to drip, should I try a different washer?

[derolph]

Any recommendations on type of washer?

[derolph]

I just found a torque spec for the drain plug. The manual (from 3geez Wiki) says 33 ft. lbs. I have never used a torque wrench on the plug; I have just tightened it to what I felt was a safe level. Perhaps I need to start using a torque wrench to tighten the plug. I suspect I've been tightening less than 33 ft. lbs.; since I had not used a torque wrench, I was being cautious to not over tighten and possibly damage the oil pan.

[Oldblueaccord]

I just found a torque spec for the drain plug. The manual (from 3geez Wiki) says 33 ft. lbs. I have never used a torque wrench on the plug; I have just tightened it to what I felt was a safe level. Perhaps I need to start using a torque wrench to tighten the plug. I suspect I've been tightening less than 33 ft. lbs.; since I had not used a torque wrench, I was being cautious to not over tighten and possibly damage the oil pan.

Stock pan Honda uses an aluminium washer. Susposed to change it everytime. Dealer only place i get them.

[derolph]

The washer on it is aluminum but it has been used numerous times. I couldn't see any reason the washer would need to be replaced every time. I'll change it next time and see if that helps. I see that the local Advance Auto Parts store sells an aluminum washer. I think I'll try that; Honda dealers probably charge several times more for the same thing.

Oh, BTW, the manual confirms that the washer should be replaced every time. So, I need to think of adding a little more to the cost of an oil change.

[g.frost]

I've been reusing the washers many times, but polish them on a flat surface with 500-600 emery paper. Remove any grooves or marks from compression. I've never had one leak yet but still replace after reusing 5-6 times. 33 ft. lbs is very tight. I doubt I put that much on them, more like 15-20.

[niles]

I buy the packages of the blue rubber oil pan seals, there's 3 or 4 in a pack and I have no leaks.

[Dr_Snooz]

Well as long as we're all exchanging notes, I use a regular flat washer smeared with RTV. At each change, I rub the old RTV off and put new on. Getting the special crush washers is a gigantic hassle for me (nearest dealer is 2 hrs away) and too blasted expensive anyway. Seems to be working well for the last few years.

[carotman]

I've been using a nylon washer on my B20A. The oil pan was a bit smashed when I got the engine. I hammered it back into shape and welded a new bung on there but it always leaked a bit with the aluminum washers. The nylon has worked great so far.

[gyates93]

I've used all kinds of washers, basically whatever Honda or a parts store will throw across the counter at me for free when I think about asking. I've used copper crush washers, aluminum ones, and nylon. No problems whatsoever from any of these. I replace them every second or third oil change - ish.

[firefighterwhite89]

I use a simple oring, just not a thick oring. It squishes when the bolt is tightened and makes a seal.

[Dr_Snooz]

FWIW, a thick oring will squish out as you tighten the bolt and you'll have a mighty leak. I haven't tried a thin oring.

[firefighterwhite89]

^^I used a thick oring once. Changed it within 20 miles for the reasons Dr Snooz posted.

[vteckiller]

Copper Washer, like the type you use on a fuel filter. replace every single oil change.. go to ace hardware buy 10 for like $5 or less.

[Keachman1]

I use the blue, nylon washers from AZ or Advance, 14 mm size. A pack of 4 is like $2.99 and change them every oil change. Torque to 15-18 Ft-lbs with these nylon washers or they will flatten and leak with too much torque. The 30 Ft-lbs is for the aluminum washers.