ARP Wheel stud question

[88Sleeper]

Hi Guys,

I've seen a lot of recommendations for the ARP studs, and I can agree that they are good.

However, I have a question, that I haven't found the answer for by searching the ENTIRE web..
I can probably ask a tire shop, but I'm hoping someone has info specific to our cars.

So I'm going to be doing the front wheel bearings, and saw that it's rec'd to change the wheel studs due to age.

I found that they have the stock length and extended length @ ARP site, however, I will need to install aftermarket wheels later on (tired of not finding R13 tires anymore) and I want TSW Mallory 4's in particular.

From what I see, I will need aftermarket lug nuts (which TSW doesn't make, for some stupid reason?? :werd: )
As far as stud length goes, I'd prefer shorter ones, but how do I know if they will work with the wheels, aside from actually trying them on a hub with the wheel as well...

I don't want to end up buying shorter ones, only to find out I'm only engaging 3 threads, and have to redo the hubs...
Also would look retarded if I buy the long ones, and end up with studs sticking out a good 1.5" (I prefer the closed lug look, srry :bs:)

Would appreciate heads up in case anyone's run into this issue?

[lostforawhile]

why not just run the standard length? they arent specific to these cars but regular metric wheel studs, much better then stock ones though, they also have the rounded end, which helps t not cross thread them. the lug nut self centers.

[cygnus x-1]

The only time I've heard of needing longer studs is when using spacers.

C|

[88Sleeper]

Ok, cool. I was confused since the ARP site lists 2 lengths for 78-00 accords: 1.85" & 2.85"

I can't find what factory length is, so I assumed 1.85", but then I read that most aftermarket rims don't fit on the stock short bolts...?

[cygnus x-1]

Ok, cool. I was confused since the ARP site lists 2 lengths for 78-00 accords: 1.85" & 2.85"

I can't find what factory length is, so I assumed 1.85", but then I read that most aftermarket rims don't fit on the stock short bolts...?


Hmmm. Rockauto says the stock stud length is 39mm, which is like 1.4".

I also found this:
For those running spacers and do not want extended wheel studs - Honda-Tech (http://honda-tech.com/acura-integra-type-r-8/those-running-spacers-do-not-want-extended-wheel-studs-3008354/)


So it appears to me that the stock ones really are 39mm (~1.4"), and the longer Acura ones are 47mm (~1.8"). Which would mean the shorter ARP studs already are longer than stock.
The longer ARP studs are huge and I doubt you could get closed end nuts over them unless you were using spacers.

For the money though, I would just get the longer studs from Rockauto. ARPs are nice but way overkill for anything less than racing applications.


C|

[88Sleeper]

Drat, I already ordered the shorter set, lol.

But thanks for the really helpful link. That's exactly what I was looking for and couldn't find :)

I prefer overkill. Our rig had the nuts come off the last left wheel on the trailer earlier this year...
We were lucky that one wheel stayed on long enough to stop, but that cost way too much either way.

I have no doubt regular studs will work, but ill take overkill for my own peace of mind :D

[lostforawhile]

Drat, I already ordered the shorter set, lol.

But thanks for the really helpful link. That's exactly what I was looking for and couldn't find :)

I prefer overkill. Our rig had the nuts come off the last left wheel on the trailer earlier this year...
We were lucky that one wheel stayed on long enough to stop, but that cost way too much either way.

I have no doubt regular studs will work, but ill take overkill for my own peace of mind :Dthats what I did, I already had the spindle all apart for new wheel bearings, the wheel hubs powdercoated, and the ARP weren't much more then a set of generic wheel studs from the parts store, nothing wrong with overkill when it comes to keeping your wheels attached to the car

[lostforawhile]

most of the pictures on my front suspension thread disappeared with imagestation, but a few survived, I was hoping the part number on the ARP studs would show up, but i had used a low quality camera back then. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/arpstuds001.jpg

[88Sleeper]

Thanks lost!

You gave me the great idea of getting my hubs powder coated as well, lol

Maybe they can do the knuckles as well, but mine have surface rust do I was going to cover them in a "rust reformer" or something like that and rubber-coat them with bedliner, good or bad idea?

[lostforawhile]

Thanks lost!

You gave me the great idea of getting my hubs powder coated as well, lol

Maybe they can do the knuckles as well, but mine have surface rust do I was going to cover them in a "rust reformer" or something like that and rubber-coat them with bedliner, good or bad idea?
if they get powder coated they will blast them first, i bead blasted mine and primed and painted them, I have the pics somewhere but they were hosted on imageshack and when they closed the pictures disappeared

[88Sleeper]

Ok, I will have to check it out then. I have a sand blasting tub and media that we bought last summer, but never used it. I have no experience in doing it, and my main worry is with scratching the spindle.

This will be a winter project though for now.

[lostforawhile]

Ok, I will have to check it out then. I have a sand blasting tub and media that we bought last summer, but never used it. I have no experience in doing it, and my main worry is with scratching the spindle.

This will be a winter project though for now.once the cv axle is removed and the bearing pressed out of the hub, there is no worry about damaging anything. on an SEI you would tape off the rear spindle, and it would be taped with special powercoating tape prior to be coating, it can stand the heat of the baking. it's a bitch to remove, but it keeps the machined surfaces powdercoat free, while you are doing this, of course replace the lower ball joints, the moog are reasonably priced and are really high quality

[88Sleeper]

Shoot, I should have looked for better ball joints then.

I ordered the upper arm & bushings from NAPA, and they were good parts made in Japan, but the lower ball joints were generic ones for the accord & civic from brazil.

I don't suppose you know where the moog come from?

The wheel bearings I got are SKF, also made in Japan. They didn't have NSK, but since we use them(skf) on the rigs I figured they should be good enough

(Yes, I am a junkie that loves quality machining) :)

[lostforawhile]

Shoot, I should have looked for better ball joints then.

I ordered the upper arm & bushings from NAPA, and they were good parts made in Japan, but the lower ball joints were generic ones for the accord & civic from brazil.

I don't suppose you know where the moog come from?

The wheel bearings I got are SKF, also made in Japan. They didn't have NSK, but since we use them(skf) on the rigs I figured they should be good enough

(Yes, I am a junkie that loves quality machining) :)
it depends on where they are made but generally they are some of the better parts, even an off brand is better then riding around on 25 year old ball joints, There have been a few members who have had them break when driving, it it wasn't a pretty sight, very critical on these cars

[88Sleeper]

Just curious, but are your moog joints greasable or sealed?

I haven't seen the greasable ones for our cars so far... :|

[lostforawhile]

Just curious, but are your moog joints greasable or sealed?

I haven't seen the greasable ones for our cars so far... :|

sealed, on mine I had to remove the boot to be able to install them, but others have said the boot didnt need to come off, on mine the wire clip that held the boot would have made them impossible to press. Be careful of the boot, they won't sell the boot separate, I called them wanting to order a spare set, and they said once the boot tears, the ball joint is considered contaminated and needs to be replaced

[gp02a0083]

Just curious, but are your moog joints greasable or sealed?

I haven't seen the greasable ones for our cars so far... :|

as far as I have experienced the only joints that have had zerk fittings for our 3rd gen is the outer tie rod ( even then some manufacturers don't have them)

n

[lostforawhile]

the outer tie rod ends that are grease-able are the Moog problem solver ones, the metallurgy is a little bit different and more porous to hold the grease, they also have plastic seals, so you can pump grease through them to remove any grit, without causing damage to a rubber boot, at least they did, i got mine about ten years ago