h22a in my 92

[92accordohio]

Does anyone know what i need to swap in a JDM H22a Auto into my 92 lx Auto accord ?? And where can i get the parts at
??

[carotman]

It would be better to ask on a board non specific to the 86-89 Accords, like http://www.purehonda.com/

[Jims 86LXI HB]

I've got a ton of book mark's on the subject, including places to buy the motor. Somewhere I've got a list that list's everthing you need in great detail. I'll try and find it and post it for you.

[Jims 86LXI HB]

Here ya go.

http://www.accordracing.com/installations/h22a.htm

First things first. Buy a Helms manual for both the engine you have and the car it is going into and get acquainted with them. THIS IS WRITTEN ASSUMING YOU HAVE A HELMS AS A REFERENCE. Try to get all the parts you will need beforehand, this can be a pain in the arse if you don't know what you will need because of the lack of consistent info on this swap-or blantant misinformation from kids who had a shop do it, but like to speculate and give advice as to the hows and whys without knowing what they are talking about. Hopefully this little piece will help.
If you can, INSPECT THE MOTOR BEFORE YOU BUY! Find out the results of a compression test if you can, I think some crate motors come with paperwork with results. All I did was pull the plugs and valvecover to see the piston tops and general condition of the head, and turned the crank with a wrench to make sure it wasn't seized, and verify that the valvetrain moved smoothly. Give the motor a visual "once over", to see what you might be replacing/fixing.

*** ENGINE PREP:
Depending on the condition and mileage of the motor you have, you may want to replace more or less. Keep in mind that it is all easier with the motor out. The JDM motor we purchased was a bit weathered, there was some water in the head and a bit of rust on the cams. I pulled the head apart, save for the valves and cleaned the shite out of everything. The oil pan was also dented. Since the mounts, hoses and axles are all cut to get the motor out in what I am sure is record time-they are useless. Here is what we had to replace, to give you an idea of what you are getting in to.

*** PARTS LIST:
$plug wires and plugs
$valve cover gasket
$plug grommets
$valve cover bolt grommets
$cam seals
$oil pan and gasket
$H22 drivers side motor mount
$H22 throttle cable and bracket
$H22 PS line
$IAT sensor
$Clutch (we used an ACT Xtreme plate with heavy duty street disk)
$Timing belt (beware, replacing the timing belt on the H22 is kind of a biatch. There is a special tool to compress the tensioner, which is unnecessarily complex if you ask me. It can be done without it, just be creative and PATIENT!)
$PS, AC, and Alternator belt (these may be custom lengths depending on what pumps and pullies you use.)
$H22 MAP sensor, brackets, vaccum hose and evap canister. (You could probably stick with the Accord canister as well.
$Crank pully (the one on the motor was chipped to shite.)

*** PARTS COMPATIBILITY DETAILS:
Mounts: This motor basically bolts in using the all the Accord mounts except for the drivers side mount. A Prelude mount must be used, and the metal bushing that holds the bolt mounting it to the frame must be shaved down slightly to fit between the brackets on the frame, you will see when you do it.
Axles: Use the stock Accord axles, and intermediate shaft.
PS Line: You will need the PS line from both the Accord and the Prelude, and have the Accord lower half (that connects to the rack) spliced with the Prelude upper half (that connects to the PS pump.) Fitting shops can do this, it costs around $60. Make sure you get it long enough.
PS pump and bracket: Prelude pump and bracket
A/C compressor and bracket: Accord compressor, with either bracket
Alternator and bracket: Accord alternator, and Prelude bracket *NOTE: Other combinations may work with the accessories, this is just what we did. Keep in mind that belt lengths will depend on what you use.

Belts: Depending on which accessory pumps you use (Prelude or Accord) the belts may be different length. For example the pully on the Prelude's A/C compressor is a lot smaller than the one on the Accord. Basically, just get your stuff mounted up and measure the length of the needed belt, and take yourself to NAPA. We ended up using the stock length Prelude PS belt, and a 43" belt for the Accord A/C compressor and Alternator on the Prelude.
Hoses: Use the upper and lower radiator hoses off the Prelude, as well as the drivers side heater hose, that goes to the back of the block. You may also need to pick up some vaccum hose, as some of the solenoids, valves etc. are going to be in different places. Consult the vaccum hose diagram in the Prelude manual for more details here, it's pretty self explanitory.
MAP Sensor: You will need the MAP sensor off a Prelude, as the Accord MAP is mounted on the throttle body, but the Prelude has it mounted on the firewall. May as well pick up the bracket with the 3 hard lines for the vaccum hoses that also attaches to the firewall (See vacuum hose diagram.) We also got the Prelude EVAP canister, as it has 3 vaccum lines and the Accord has 2, just to avoid confusion. If you don't care about money, get it from Honda, if you do-go to a junk yard. (Remember small items fit easily in pockets!) Kidding, well this may be justified if the owner is senile and wants $800 for a pair Del Sol seats that are smoked from a car fire. When he insists it's easy to get out, tell him to go to hell.

Exhaust: The combination of the Prelude header and the Accord cat/exhaust did not work. The Accord cat is too long. You have options of what you can do. We bought an aftermarket header and had a muffler shop cut the exhaust and weld everything up. You can have the excess length taken out of the header or out of the exhaust, it's your call. I have been told that a Prelude cat is shorter, but someone else will have to look into that.
Shift linkage and clutch linkage: Accord
Throttle cable: Use the Prelude throttle cable and bracket. Someone with a small bit of creativity could get cruise to work, by fashioning a bracket to hold both cables properly and shortening the cruise cable and attaching it to the throttle pulley. We didn't do this. *NOTE: The Accord throttle cable attaches to the pedal differently than the Prelude. There is a gap that the cable can come off using the Prelude cable, just use your head and secure it in place. There is more than one way to do this, you will see.
Harness and ECU: Use the Accord harness, and ECU for the H22 (obviously.) The harness must be modified (no simple task, see wiring section.)

Click here for wiring:
http://www.accordracing.com/installations/h22a_wiring.htm

[smufguy]

dude Jim, that is one long ass post u got there. Ur defenitely a mad man dude.