MaroonHonda
12-23-2014, 04:27 PM
Hello,
After searching, the only thread I found that was similar to my issue is a posting by Tomarano or Tamarino back in 2008; where he states that the engine sometimes just runs on three cylinders. The problem was narrowed down to the head and supposedly the valve guides and other issues that he doesn't state. I am hoping mine isn't a cylinder head issue. A head gasket maybe, but I don't want to remove the head. No garage and it's too damp and cold.
Here we go.
1. I've had car for over four years, and just noticed it running rough about a month and a half.
2. New plugs, gapped properly. New plug wires. A good, but not new rotor and distributor cap. Air snorkel heat valve is closed after warm up, so I'm not getting super hot air in there all the time.
3. That valve on the front, right side of the carb( looking aft) bellows is fine, opens and closes with vacuum suction.
4. EGR valve, I think that's it, with an orange bellows under the lid, moves up and down with vacuum.
5. No vacuum hoses disconnected that I can see. Sprayed ether around while engine running and no increase or smoothing out.
6. Engine mounts are good, new rear one. Front one may be bad, but it really has no effect on this rough running.
7. New gas tank in Sept. that I put in, old one rusted. No leaks, hoses correct and not pinched, no water ingress that I know of as of this typing. New fuel filters and two new fuel lines.
8. New timing belt in April. Running like a champ. Of course though, now I have this rough running.
9. Oil is great, coolant is clean and not depleting. No smoke, after choke fully opens. It may need adjusting, but after car warms up, butterfly is full open. It always has done this, but never ran rough after warming up. No white smoke.
10. This last winter, car even started at 16 below, and for a 25 year old car, that's pretty good. It was great this last winter and summer. Starts up fine since I bought it in October of 2010 every......single.........time......perfectly, whether hot or cold.
Now here's the deal: After warmed up, it ONLY runs on #1 and #2 cylinders. How it is even starting I have no idea. It is missing when I drove it today and last night, and after I got home last night, I disconnected 3 and 4, still sounds the same, no change, and keeps on chugging with just the two cylinders. This missing that started a bit ago, I thought it was bad gas. Because this car starts every time AND I can still accelerate with NO popping, pinging or hesitation. It just kinda seems slow now, however.
When I first start it up, I tested the manifold with water, and each area of the manifold by each cylinder, the water would sizzle and evaporate, and when I would remove each plug wire, the engine would run rough, then when I connected them back one at a time, it would go back up to cold warm-up idle. NOW, after the engine is warm? It only runs on cylinder 1 and 2. Heck, I even crossed plug wires 3 and 4 and NO change.
This has me baffled. The compression on #3 cylinder is 180, HOWEVER, I have not read 1,2 or 4 yet. Because originally, JUST #3 cylinder was not firing after warming up. Now, #4 joined in. And you should here the spark plug wires jumping the gap when I hold all the boots close to the plug tip or valve cover, so there is regular spark going to the plug. Also, ALL the plugs, both my old ones and the new ones I just replaced three days ago, are ALL nice and tan. No coking, oil, water, sludge or what have you.
Whew! Does anyone have any procedures that I may be able to take step by step? I would love to hear your opinions.
Thanks!
After searching, the only thread I found that was similar to my issue is a posting by Tomarano or Tamarino back in 2008; where he states that the engine sometimes just runs on three cylinders. The problem was narrowed down to the head and supposedly the valve guides and other issues that he doesn't state. I am hoping mine isn't a cylinder head issue. A head gasket maybe, but I don't want to remove the head. No garage and it's too damp and cold.
Here we go.
1. I've had car for over four years, and just noticed it running rough about a month and a half.
2. New plugs, gapped properly. New plug wires. A good, but not new rotor and distributor cap. Air snorkel heat valve is closed after warm up, so I'm not getting super hot air in there all the time.
3. That valve on the front, right side of the carb( looking aft) bellows is fine, opens and closes with vacuum suction.
4. EGR valve, I think that's it, with an orange bellows under the lid, moves up and down with vacuum.
5. No vacuum hoses disconnected that I can see. Sprayed ether around while engine running and no increase or smoothing out.
6. Engine mounts are good, new rear one. Front one may be bad, but it really has no effect on this rough running.
7. New gas tank in Sept. that I put in, old one rusted. No leaks, hoses correct and not pinched, no water ingress that I know of as of this typing. New fuel filters and two new fuel lines.
8. New timing belt in April. Running like a champ. Of course though, now I have this rough running.
9. Oil is great, coolant is clean and not depleting. No smoke, after choke fully opens. It may need adjusting, but after car warms up, butterfly is full open. It always has done this, but never ran rough after warming up. No white smoke.
10. This last winter, car even started at 16 below, and for a 25 year old car, that's pretty good. It was great this last winter and summer. Starts up fine since I bought it in October of 2010 every......single.........time......perfectly, whether hot or cold.
Now here's the deal: After warmed up, it ONLY runs on #1 and #2 cylinders. How it is even starting I have no idea. It is missing when I drove it today and last night, and after I got home last night, I disconnected 3 and 4, still sounds the same, no change, and keeps on chugging with just the two cylinders. This missing that started a bit ago, I thought it was bad gas. Because this car starts every time AND I can still accelerate with NO popping, pinging or hesitation. It just kinda seems slow now, however.
When I first start it up, I tested the manifold with water, and each area of the manifold by each cylinder, the water would sizzle and evaporate, and when I would remove each plug wire, the engine would run rough, then when I connected them back one at a time, it would go back up to cold warm-up idle. NOW, after the engine is warm? It only runs on cylinder 1 and 2. Heck, I even crossed plug wires 3 and 4 and NO change.
This has me baffled. The compression on #3 cylinder is 180, HOWEVER, I have not read 1,2 or 4 yet. Because originally, JUST #3 cylinder was not firing after warming up. Now, #4 joined in. And you should here the spark plug wires jumping the gap when I hold all the boots close to the plug tip or valve cover, so there is regular spark going to the plug. Also, ALL the plugs, both my old ones and the new ones I just replaced three days ago, are ALL nice and tan. No coking, oil, water, sludge or what have you.
Whew! Does anyone have any procedures that I may be able to take step by step? I would love to hear your opinions.
Thanks!