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superaccord
05-20-2002, 12:18 AM
i have two weeks to get my car a little faster. is there anything i can do to add a few horse. i have 21/4 cat back and an intake already. will adjusting my timing or anything do it. i also have like 150 bucks. well, if you guys think of anything just let me know k thanks,
matt

1988starter
05-20-2002, 05:17 AM
headders you can pick up some black painted ones from nopi for 150

rallyeNate
05-20-2002, 06:24 AM
if you want real power gains buy a cam. i am getting mine from crower, its costing me about $100 with shipping both ways. a cam can add up to 15/20 real HP just depending on how big you go. there are post all over about cams on this forum. the cam will take longer than 2weeks to get.

ACCORD EX
05-20-2002, 10:35 AM
i think we should put in the FAQ all the what can we put in our engines and how much hp gain ! ( approx. ofcourse )

MIKE

superaccord
05-20-2002, 10:45 AM
what would be the best size cam to get? oh and those black headers are passetler right. the only thing with the black ones is that the black comes off and it look ugly right. it wont effect the power will it? how do i get my cam?

hondamanlxi
05-20-2002, 11:10 AM
so for 100 bucks, i can send my cam in to be reground? or do they send me a new one? im sorry, but for 100 dollars i wanna know everything about this

1988starter
05-20-2002, 11:18 AM
just looks ugly no power change.

rallyeNate
05-20-2002, 01:27 PM
Yes, for $100 dollars you can send YOUR cam (or any core, basically thay are not supplied) in and have it reground. the sizing is up to you. check with yk86, i think his is pretty mild, i have not received mine and its pretty big. the bogest cam that i know that works on a EFI car is int. dur. 213 ext. dur. 224 these are at 0.050 lift specs. i will post a more in depth post a about cams later on this evening.

hondamanlxi
05-20-2002, 02:03 PM
how do i contact these people?

87DXHatch
05-20-2002, 05:19 PM
You say you need to get faster in two weeks, eh? Well I know a way to get your car to go really fast, really quick.

Take a container of Moth balls and dump it into your gas tank. The chemicals in the balls make your fuel octane huge and the car will fly.

On a minor note, this can do SERIOUS damage to your engine so use at your own risk. Great for junk cars that no one cares about.

Side story:
My friend's cousin did this on a junker he bought for 100$. The car went 0-80 in a hurry and then smoke started pouring out from under the hood. He slammed on the brakes and dove out of the car as the engine burst into flames.

A20A1
05-20-2002, 06:51 PM
Higher octane is worthless without higer compression with either froced induction or high compression ratio.

You can increase the timing and use 92 octane or whichever you can get in the 90's

if your intake isn't cold air intake then make the tube longer and relocate the battery... use 3" tube.... yeah yeah you'll have the cut the hole under the battery tray larger to fit the pipe...


;)

rallyeNate
05-20-2002, 09:41 PM
here are the two ways to measure cams (0.050/advertized)

0.050-Inch Timing Method The 0.050-inch lifter rise cam timing
method measures valve timing when the
lifter has risen 0.050-inch off of the base
circle of the cam. In the setup pictured
here, the dial indicator is positioned on
an intake lifter; the 0.050-inch valve
timing point can now be read directly off
of the degree wheel attached to the
crankshaft. Timing specs measured
using this method are not meant to
approximate the actual valve opening
and closing points, instead their purpose
is to permit accurate cam installation. All
0.050-inch timing specs entered into the
Dyno2000 are internally converted to
seat-to-seat timing. Because there is no
way to precisely perform this conver-sion,
always try to obtain and use seat-to-
seat event timing to optimize simula-tion
accuracy.
Seat-To-Seat Timing Method Seat-to-seat timing measures the valve
timing—relative to piston position—when
the valve or (more rarely the lifter) has
just begun to rise. Here dial indicators
are positioned on the valvespring
retainers and are measuring valve rise,
which is the most common technique
used with seat-to-seat timing (0.020-inch
LIFTER rise is a notable exception).
Timing specs measured using these
methods are meant to approximate the
actual valve opening and closing points
that occur within the running engine.
Because of this, seat-to-seat valve
events are often called the advertised or
running timing and will always produce
the most accurate simulations.

thats take care of that. for example my cam spec @0.050lift is int. dur. 213 / ext. dur. 224 lift is 0.430, now if it were advertized somthing like 270/290 dur. with 0.430lift and the advertized duration will change from company to company even if the cam specs @0.050 are the same. in short advertized duration is bullshit duration. this is were the carbed cars have an advantage, you can put a larger cam in a carbed car than an efi car. the efi computer MUST beable to adjust to the new cam. things like overlap and duration are what will control the driveablity and workablity compared to the car.

looking for some companies that do regrinds
http://www.crower.com
http://www.gude.com/
http://www.coltcams.com
http://www.webcamshafts.com/
http://www.openloopmotorsports.com/
and JE no longer sell camshafts for are cars

i hope this helps you!

superaccord
05-21-2002, 11:15 AM
that on the cams was a big help. how long will it take toget my cam? will i be able to install it myself? and can i grind it and get it installed before the 31?

rallyeNate
05-21-2002, 01:22 PM
you need a cam core first off, so go to your local junkyard and pic one up, and then send it to your company of your choice. crower is the cheepest of then all. i forgot to post the website to openloop motorsports, so here it is http://www.openloopmotorsports.com, they also can preform this service. if i remember right, he said that he has a core laying around. you best bet is to give these companies a call and talk to someone in person. if you plan on installing the cam yourself i would go to the junkyard and pull it yourself, other things to think about are replacing your valve springs and valve stem seals. here is a web address to an online honda parts dealer www.hondaautomotiveparts.com .

remember if your cam is to big your car WONT RUN! efi is more picky than carbs.

Jerren
05-21-2002, 01:54 PM
about the mothballs

i made a post about this back on ezboard. it will kill your car after about 500 miles. mothballs in the tank is a poormans NOS. don't do that.

RAllyNate

i've been trying to pm you via 3geez messenger. i need to talk to you about some stuff.

superaccord
05-21-2002, 09:04 PM
where do i get new valve stem seals and valve springs? what do you mean if its too big it wont run? is a mild cam from openloop ok?
matt
what would be better to go with a header or a cam?

rallyeNate
05-22-2002, 07:27 AM
like i was saying, goto www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for any honda replacements you need, these factory parts.

like i was saying before buy a CAM; the only thing that will get you more power than a cam it a TURBO or NOS.

by "to big" i am talking about the profile of the cam. when you increace the duration and lift you will get a lope to the low rpms, this is due to the lose of vaccum. when you lose to much vaccum, you will lose your power brakes (they will become manual brake). also you need vaccum for the ecu, no vaccum no running car.

heres my cam profile
(@ 0.050 lift)
int dur 213 @ 0.413 lift
ext dur 224@ 0.413 lift

i cant give you any feed back on it because i havent received it yet. Carotman has a lot of info on cams on his web page, just click on the pic. http://pages.infinit.net/omus/ this can give an idea of cam spec. if you send it to crower or colt cams, you will need to tell them what the spec are going to be reground to-custom only. i dont know how the other companies do there regrinds.