shaved molding

[DROPPED88]

when you shave your molding do you just fill it in with bondo after you remove the molding or do you have to weld in a filler piece then bondo over that

[anchovies]

Weld then bondo is the right way.

[DROPPED88]

ok cool

[rabbit_66_61]

yep thats what i've been doin for my shaved side moldings welded a big thick strip and bondo it. Works great for me no cracks at all

[blok2400]

im still a newbie but what do you mean by shaved?

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Remove the door trim, emblems (Honda, Accord, Model, H's), door handles, antenna, there's some more I just can't think of them at the moment.

[socal3rdgen]

Originally posted by rabbit_66_61
yep thats what i've been doin for my shaved side moldings welded a big thick strip and bondo it. Works great for me no cracks at all

wont that warp the metal. when you weld the shet metal on the car. and what about changing temps. expanding and contracting. metal will do that, but the bondo wont.

[Tim Yoak]

:confused: to do that much filling you need to use metal, bondo isn't meant to be that thick, if you are an experienced welder, it shouldn't be too hard, if not have a body shop do it and get it done right.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Tim is right on with this one. Bondo would crack if you put it on that thick. It's best to weld a strip of metal over it and fill the gap with some foam or something.

[Tim Yoak]

Originally posted by DROPPED88
when you shave your molding do you just fill it in with bondo after you remove the molding or do you have to weld in a filler piece then bondo over that before you remove the molding look at this link at some of the different ideas at painting it etc. just scroll down until you see the white honda accord hb www.pauldesign.ru/honda/ph_bodykit.html

[dXsquared]

expanding foam works too... not as permenent, but if u want a look at a shaved molding, fill with foam, saw most of the excess off and sand smooth,,, then apply a layer of BONDO and sand smooth and spray body color

Travis

[Tim Yoak]

:eek: Yea but why ruin your car doing it the easy way, you'll just have to tear it out later and spend twice as muuch time as you would doing it right the first time. noone ever said custom work was easy. Ask some of these hot rodders about that, it doesn't matter if it's a custom ford or a custom honda, what you put into it is what you get out. there are no shortcuts. the more work you do the better the results. these are fine old cars, don't ruin the quality of the craftmanship.

[AccordEpicenter]

id stay away from filling the hole with expanding foam, it traps moisture against the metal causing it to rust

[Twisted 87lxi]

Expanding foam, weld and bondo?....whoa, you ppl are trying entirely too hard! First off, bondo can (excuse me) suck my dick. I molded the front air dam of my body kit to the bumper of my car with about 10 tubes of bondo and made it all perfectly flush with the bumper spent probably around 6-8 hours on the front alone, looked great. However, I was pulling into my driveway one day and my car was a little too low, well guess what happened next......all the bondo blew out and left about 10 tubes worth of dried red/orange crap all over my car and the driveway. So i've completely given up with bondo and my personal suggestion to anyone that is still using it for more than a minor dent or scratch: ditch it it isn't worth seeing all of your work laying on the ground after you spent hours on it. If its working for you though then stick with it. If your still not sure, pm me, i could tell you many more horror stories about the "Fabulous" Bondo. Otherwise I recommend using something stronger like fiberglass.

I'm actually in the process of filling the dents from the door molding and i'm down to 1 door left, all I've been doing is:

1. Place some duct tape over the holes for the molding clips.
2. Make a thin piece of cardboard to fill the majority of the dent.
3. Then fill the rest over with some longstrand fiberglass that you can get at any Kragen or Pep Boys. Put a rather hefty amount on.
4. Wait about 15-20 minutes for it to dry
5. Then take a belt sander or disk sander to it and smooth it down, it doenst have to be perfect yet, but pretty close.
6. Then go over it again and fill any holes or lowered areas that need more fiberglass and try to spot any possible air pockets to pop out and refill.
7. Wait another 10 mins for the fiberglass to dry.
8. Smooth it down again but this time stop before the level of the fiberglass if even with the door and sand the rest down by hand to ensure that it is evenly sanded. From here on just keep using finer grits of sandpaper as you even it out to smooth it out as well so you dont get scratches and gouges in your car.

I've found that after every time I sand it down, spraying it with a layer of primer really helps me find the air pockets and makes it easier to determine which areas are raised and need more sanding. I know this isn't probably near body shop quality, but ive been beating at it with my fist and kneeing it as I go along to make sure that the fiberglass wont break, crack or fall out and even slamming my door as hard as I can doesnt seem to touch it. Plus everyone I know keeps telling me how great my car looks and when I tell them that I used to have fat ass dents in my doors they don't usually believe me until they see the area that I'm still working on.

If you want to start messing with other parts on your car, i've molded the rectangular crack around the door handles so that only the handle and the lock are still there, it look really clean looking and is a lot cheaper than shaving your handles completely. If your willing/daring give it a try. Besides, anything that you do is always fixable, thats what body shops are for :lol

[3rdGenMartyr]

do you have any pics of your ride so far in that project Twisted

[JaVaSa84]

why do people shave their cars anyway? And how can you listen to the radio if you have no antenna?

[Elijah]

lets see some pics

[Twisted 87lxi]

I really havent gotten around to pics, I guess I'll try to shoot some soon. I'm really sort of working on my car so that I can like someday bust em out and show off when all i've got planned is done. :lol j/k

I'll get some up here within the next week.

[Tim Yoak]

:pimp: You said that you used bondo on your bumper? Thats's why it popped out, Bondo is really meant to be used on bare metal thats what it keys to. Anything that flexes it will pop out. there is a special flexible bumper filler that you can use that won't pop out. You said that you used bondo in the tube? Are you talking about bondo or stopper paste? stopper paste is orange and in a tube, bondo is a two part that you mix. Stopper paste is used in depths less then 1/16 of an inch for the final coat. You bondo, fill and sand. then stopper paste and wet sand over and over until it's perfect.

[Twisted 87lxi]

Are you sure your not talking about bondo body filler? I'm talking about the Bondo dent filler that yes, comes in an orange tube that is orange/red. Your supposed to use that bondo body filler that is a two part mix on top of the fiberglass anyway to help smooth it out, but its purely optional.

[Tim Yoak]

Originally posted by Twisted 87lxi
Are you sure your not talking about bondo body filler? I'm talking about the Bondo dent filler that yes, comes in an orange tube that is orange/red. Your supposed to use that bondo body filler that is a two part mix on top of the fiberglass anyway to help smooth it out, but its purely optional. What I'm talking about says bondo on the tube, but it is a single part that you don't mix at all. It's for filling the final coat because it fills any inperfections in the bondo. Then you wet sand it.

[RedneckRicer]

Personally i think theres only two ways to go about shaving things, welding in a patch panel, or if you can't, theres a specialty body filler called "long and strong" basically this is a 'bondo' but its fiberglass. you still mix in a normal hardener that you'd use with bondo. but this is a lot stronger than body filler, AND it doesn't let moisture in. if you have moisture behind your body work eventually it'll rust, either leaving a whole or literally causing the filler to fall out. and i would personally never put bondo over 1/4" and i'd be hard pressed to do that much. with welding to avoid warping the metal you have to basically do a tack weld, wait for it to cool, do another, and so on. i agree with the fact it ain't easy. But like they say " Pimpin' ain't easy, but somebodies gotta do it ":pimp:

[Tim Yoak]

Originally posted by RedneckRicer
Personally i think theres only two ways to go about shaving things, welding in a patch panel, or if you can't, theres a specialty body filler called "long and strong" basically this is a 'bondo' but its fiberglass. you still mix in a normal hardener that you'd use with bondo. but this is a lot stronger than body filler, AND it doesn't let moisture in. if you have moisture behind your body work eventually it'll rust, either leaving a whole or literally causing the filler to fall out. and i would personally never put bondo over 1/4" and i'd be hard pressed to do that much. with welding to avoid warping the metal you have to basically do a tack weld, wait for it to cool, do another, and so on. i agree with the fact it ain't easy. But like they say " Pimpin' ain't easy, but somebodies gotta do it ":pimp: You can weld the panel but only if you're good. an experienced sheet metal welder can do such a nicce job, you hardly have to do any grinding. it just takes a lot of experience to avoid warping the metal

[3rdGenMartyr]

personally, i would never use bondo in my car, i know so many people that have had bad experiences with it, that it isn't even worth it to try

besides, fiberglass is the way to go, it's tougher, and more reliable than the mysterious substance called bondo....

anyway, why would you shave the molding, it looks good if you keep it black, or you can just paint it the same color as the rest of the body and it will still look good, unless you plan on adding body decals or a mural style paint job

honda built the car to look like that and you bought it like that, if it doesnt add any ponies at the wheels then why mess with it

[Tim Yoak]

Originally posted by 3rdGenMartyr
personally, i would never use bondo in my car, i know so many people that have had bad experiences with it, that it isn't even worth it to try

besides, fiberglass is the way to go, it's tougher, and more reliable than the mysterious substance called bondo....

anyway, why would you shave the molding, it looks good if you keep it black, or you can just paint it the same color as the rest of the body and it will still look good, unless you plan on adding body decals or a mural style paint job

honda built the car to look like that and you bought it like that, if it doesnt add any ponies at the wheels then why mess with it I'm not changing mine I like my molding some people were just asking. You know different strokes for :argue:

[RedneckRicer]

personally i think body filler, or bondo ( just a brand of it ) is the best thing made for bodywork. in the right hands it can do wonders. but when people don't know what they're doing, don't mix it right, or the major one, if you let any water AT ALL get on that filler it will absorb it. then it rusts behind and it falls out. used right bondo is the best:super:

[Twisted 87lxi]

I stand by 3rdgenmartyr.....entirely too many horror stories about bondo. I just enjoy the quick drying and the ease of use of fiberglass, if bondo works for your job then keep at it i suppose.