1988 accord lx problems

[zach_benny]

Ok so I bought this car from a friend and it has the weber k728 carb on it. Since I've had it it will smell like gas fumes when I shut of engine. When I cut it off it sounds like it's misfiring and the key is in the off position. It has a automatic and when coming from a stop it stumbles like it's in a higher gear and shakes if I accelerat without putting it in D2. Car also shook at idle before I adjusted it just a little to keep it from shaking so bad. Any input is very much appreciated ! . Thanks

[ryan427]

I don't have a Weber on my car, but I am definitely experiencing the gas odor. I'm also experiencing flooding at idle but I'm not so sure you are. Pretty certain my base gasket (and other gaskets) are done. There is also gasket beneath the EFE and above it (o-ring insulator) that deteriorate over time. I am only learning this now as I just finished ordering both of those gaskets to have when I pull the original carb and install a rebuilt unit. I don't know if the EFE (early fuel evaporator) is deleted with a Weber install. I wouldn't think so. Small squirts of carb cleaner around the intake and base of carb is a good place to start (with engine running). Also check for vacuum leaks. If the EFE is still there and you need those gaskets, they are Fel-pro 60671 (for the bottom) and Honda part number 16105-PJ7-000 (for the top). Since you have a Weber carb, you might have a different gasket between the EFE and base. Or it might still be the same if the adapter uses that gasket. Worth checking. I am just starting to learn here so I am sure folks with more knowledge will reply.

[ryan427]

Zach, have you figured out your issue?


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[zach_benny]

No. I've been messing with it here and there. I adjust the carb pretty often so it will idle right then it starts messing up again and I re adjust it again. I'm trying to find a completed photo to see if anything is out of place with mine / other vaccum re routes and / or delete . I'll post a photo of what I'm working with in the morning .

[zach_benny]

7576108462 is my cell number also

[A20A1]

What rpm does your car idle at When warm? What type of choke is on the carb if any? Water, electric, manual?
A picture of the carb setup. Definitely look for vacuum leaks along any gasket mating surface as suggested above.


Edit: looked up the kit. Weber 38 synchonous, electric choke.


Running or sounding like it's running when the key is off is a run-on situation Aka dieseling

Your idle might be too high. If your high idle is simply from the throttle open too much it can also be source for a manifold vacuum leak, this is probably made worse due to it being a synchonous carb. Anyways if the throttle, gasket, or vacuum line caused leak, it will mess up the carbs ability to pull fuel at idle, from the idle jets.

[A20A1]

I might suggest you look at your jets, check to make sure they are clean, and securely screwed into the holes. Float bowl should be clean as well. Note the numbers on the jets if possible. Especially your idle, which may be outside the bowl, I'm not sure where they are on the 38, I had the 32/36.

Have a look at your spark plugs (note color/condition).


Order is debatable as carb adjustments may be unavoidable as intermediary steps.
1) fix vacuum leaks
2) clean and secure fuel jets and bowl
If problems persist
3) check ignition components
4) adjust / tune carburetor.




May not be nesscesary, but also take a picture of your weber Cable bracket and TV cable setup. The TV cable is the throttle value cable from the linkage on the front of the transmission. Although some cars were lucky and had it connected to the pedal instead of the carb.

[ryan427]

I might suggest you look at your jets, check to make sure they are clean, and securely screwed into the holes.
x2 on those jets. It's reasonable to think that, since you are adjusting and then it "loses" its adjustment shortly after, your jets might really be loose.

I would also make sure your throttle cable is secured tightly to the bracket. If loose, it can vibrate and move back, opening the throttle and staying there. That happened to me and I kept lowering the idle until it wouldn't run anymore. I did not think to check something so obvious but when I finally did, it was a lightbulb.

Lastly, check that the gasket around the carb is good (spray a little carb cleaner around the base while it is running) and make sure the bolts holding the carb down are tight.

This might all be obvious but I've been offered this kind of advice in the past, scoffed, and then went for the most complicated possibility only to then heed the advice to check those simple things first and then have success. I'm stubborn.



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[Dr_Snooz]

Dieseling is almost always caused by an idle set too high. A raw fuel smell when the car is off is typically due to a saturated charcoal canister.