boxing lower control arms

[lostforawhile]

I love the new lower control arms from Chedda, but they are pretty much permanently out of my price range, has anyone else ever considered boxing in the rear factory arms? in other words welding a plate across the open section on each arm, for additional strength. It seems like a pretty easy mod, and should add a lot of strength, it used to be common on domestics to do this, before aftermarket parts, became so common. Also I can't find the info anymore, is there still an existing list of poly control arm bushings for the factory arms?

[2ndTimeHondaOwner]

Can't find that list either but maybe this can help. HondaAccordSuspension.com - Honda Accord 1986 Suspension Parts (http://www.hondaaccordsuspension.com/Honda-Accord-1986.htm)

[carotman]

How would you adjust the toe in the rear if the arms were boxed?

[89T]

He means each one individually.

[lostforawhile]

right, the way they are designed they are weak, adding a plate to the open area on each arm, would triangulate the load

[Oldblueaccord]

right, the way they are designed they are weak, adding a plate to the open area on each arm, would triangulate the load


Really cant hurt I just wouldnt go crazy and add a bunch of weight to it.

I think there are alotta other areas that would help alot more like seem welding the car or even a cage.

I never really messed with bushings for the rear besides the UCA's. I run the poly Ingalls arm. Really that one needs a heim joint to the body it binds on the polly something fierce. I looked into a few place like King to rebuild them with heims but never went to far with it.

Those 4 little ones that hook the trailing arm to the suspension I thought about making solid. I don't see any reason for them other than noise reduction.

I have nothing good to say about the Chedder stuff so Ill just leave it at that.

[A18A]

right, the way they are designed they are weak, adding a plate to the open area on each arm, would triangulate the load

i cant think of any times where i've ever thought my car would benefit from having stronger LCAs in all my experience of driving on (and off) the roads but that would be cause i think of these "weak" arms as a fuse to protect the crossmember/frame of the car in the event you hit something solid. i know id rather just replace (or just hammer straight lol) standard control arms & put them in & be good to go again (after an alignment of course) instead of replacing the crossmember, or trying to straighten out the car. idk just my $0.02

[Oldblueaccord]

i cant think of any times where i've ever thought my car would benefit from having stronger LCAs in all my experience of driving on (and off) the roads but that would be cause i think of these "weak" arms as a fuse to protect the crossmember/frame of the car in the event you hit something solid. i know id rather just replace (or just hammer straight lol) standard control arms & put them in & be good to go again (after an alignment of course) instead of replacing the crossmember, or trying to straighten out the car. idk just my $0.02

https://dartslantsix.wordpress.com/2012/09/08/lower-control-arms-boxed/


Boxing Front LCA - How to - Chevelle Tech (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=277180)

Boxing Lower Control Arms Pics: - Vintage Mustang Forums (http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/640831-boxing-lower-control-arms-pics.html)





its a common suspension upgrade for just about any make of vehicle.

Most of us dont really 4 wheel our vehicles.

[gp02a0083]

This is the same discussion that pops up many times on the G & A body forums being most of those cars have 4 link type of suspension,have solid axles, and most are body on frame (few exceptions) unlike our 3rd gens. Mainly this was done because of the crappy stamped trailing arms had too much lateral deflection when coupled to a heavy car and solid axle. The end up be all for these guys is to replace them with aftermarket arms.

In our instance A18A and Blue mention some benefits and draw backs. With all the dirt road driving I do and the crappy NJ roads I have never seen an issue with the arms themselves over the last 13 years (other than the common front and rear upper control arm issues), if anything the bushings are shot. Fabricating tube type arms IMO would be better than welding up the stock ones.

[ryan427]

I was just under my car over the weekend. My father in law has a lift in his shop (that he never uses). He recently helped me install new UCA's and lower ball joints and a rebuilt steering rack. I couldn't afford to take it to a shop so we had to do it ourselves. NEVER again. Oddly enough, he mentioned the same mod for LCA's and showed me where he did it on a Mustang. I guess it is common? Anyway, even after the new ball joints, still had a lot of noise over bumps. I definitely need to do the struts but we did grease up all the bushings and it quieted everything WAY down. The tie rod ends had some "spots" in them but are tight as a drum so we pulled the boots down and shot grease in them. World of difference. I had this genius thought about installing grease fittings. I was all excited because I actually believed for a second that I was the only one who ever thought to do that until he shattered my dreams and told me lots of people do that to save money/avoid replacement. Anyway (I get off topic easily), he said that boxing the LCA's adds tremendous stability for cornering. I'm not ripping through corners but I wouldn't mind doing a cheap mod like Lost suggests to realize a possible improvement in handling. Hmmm.

[89T]

Now see. Oddly enough I don't really see any real benefit for screwing with the rear suspension. Unless you're heavy into road racing for off roading which in our car I think we're going to be off roading. For what I'm doing, an occasional Drive in town and drag racing. The only benefit I would see messing with the rear suspension would be to remove all of it do a ladder bar solid axle type setup with coilovers. course you would have to use heim joints and the least amount of bushings possible but The only reason you would do this is to save on weight.

Before you say I am crazy... JohnnyO had a solid rear axle..

[2ndTimeHondaOwner]

i cant think of any times where i've ever thought my car would benefit from having stronger LCAs in all my experience of driving on (and off) the roads but that would be cause i think of these "weak" arms as a fuse to protect the crossmember/frame of the car in the event you hit something solid. i know id rather just replace (or just hammer straight lol) standard control arms & put them in & be good to go again (after an alignment of course) instead of replacing the crossmember, or trying to straighten out the car. idk just my $0.02. I'm with you on that one. I had a nitro rc car that I keep breaking suspension arms on, till I upgraded to aluminum parts. After the upgrade the parts I started to break costed three times as much $ as the old plastic arms and took longer to replace also.

[carotman]

They sure would be stronger but I don't see them as a weak point of that particular car.

[MessyHonda]

i would be worried with the bushings. its hard to find a replacement set from honda. some parts are being discontinued.

[ryan427]

i would be worried with the bushings. its hard to find a replacement set from honda. some parts are being discontinued.

I have limited knowledge of the front suspension. You bring up a great point. Pretty sure I need bushings for mine. Where do we go? I honestly haven't researched this so forgive me.


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