Noisy upper control arms

[ryan427]

So... I did some searching and found a few things about this noise... Creaking, squeaking etc. My upper control arms were installed in January. The noise started about 30 days after they were installed. Buddy of mine with the same car has the same problem. Anyone know a fix? I've isolated the noise to the bushing where the long bolt goes through. Back off on the torque? Grease? Looking for a permanent solution from those who have more wisdom and experience than I (so pretty much everyone here). Thanks!
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[Oldblueaccord]

So... I did some searching and found a few things about this noise... Creaking, squeaking etc. My upper control arms were installed in January. The noise started about 30 days after they were installed. Buddy of mine with the same car has the same problem. Anyone know a fix? I've isolated the noise to the bushing where the long bolt goes through. Back off on the torque? Grease? Looking for a permanent solution from those who have more wisdom and experience than I (so pretty much everyone here). Thanks!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/f7f7dbe6eaeb2c1f874721b95cef7a84.jpg


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Im guessing its the bushing to the body is doing it. hit those areas with some lube,and not WD40,see if that temporary stops it. You might have that bolt a little snug.

[Devin Soares]

I have the same car and im having the exact same issue. Just replaced upper control arms and bushings now they squeak. Try some silicone lubricant, spray the shit outta it.

[ryan427]

Thinking we should pull the bolts and spray all inside. I don't know what these things look like inside. Worth a shot. Going to try 35 lbs/ft instead of 40.


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[Dr_Snooz]

I found Moog parts and lots of white grease to be the best way to keep the noise away. I think other suppliers (including the Honda dealership, ironically) offer bushings that are too tight on the spindle. They squeak and scrub and fail early no matter how much you grease them.

Search around on the site. We've discussed this before and someone had success by backing off the torque on the spindle nuts. I would be liberal with the Loctite or even double nut it if I were doing that.

[gyates93]

Mine squeaked until I replaced them, used lots of GREASE - not spray can junk - and torqued to proper settings and it went away. This was almost two years ago. It's a common and recurring problem in these cars, I've never seen one that doesn't do it. Mine are starting to make noise again but I won't be pulling them apart to correct it until the ball joint itself is worn out. I may check the torque of the bolt though.

[ryan427]

I hear ya. I loosened the bolt and greased it up today. Then, I noticed the boots around the balljoints are starting to crack and one is split. Just replaced these in January. Pure junk. Warranty. Should've used factory parts on this job. Weekend project I suspect.


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[gp02a0083]

The upper arms can be serviced if your quick in less than an hour per side. I've been dealing with the creaking for a little while now, I've tried cheap parts then went to better moog RK series parts. Last i have not tried is switching over to poly but that most likely develop a creak / squeak. I've also tried using various Tq settings on the pin bolt and I have not had much luck. I was suspecting that the root of the problem was coming from the outer o-ring that seats between the mount and cap or it was the cap to bushing surface but i have not pin pointed the exact location / cause. However I have noticed the past few weeks that we had snow and extreme cold weather that the creaking was worse, now with the temperature warming up and drier weather the creaking has gone away.

[ryan427]

The upper arms can be serviced if your quick in less than an hour per side. I've been dealing with the creaking for a little while now, I've tried cheap parts then went to better moog RK series parts. Last i have not tried is switching over to poly but that most likely develop a creak / squeak. I've also tried using various Tq settings on the pin bolt and I have not had much luck. I was suspecting that the root of the problem was coming from the outer o-ring that seats between the mount and cap or it was the cap to bushing surface but i have not pin pointed the exact location / cause. However I have noticed the past few weeks that we had snow and extreme cold weather that the creaking was worse, now with the temperature warming up and drier weather the creaking has gone away.

By "serviced", do you mean replacement of the upper balljoints? Because that's what I'm going to do. The passenger side is completely dry. Unreal. Also, what do you mean by "o ring between mount and cap"? Sounds like you're describing the upper strut mount. Keep in mind I'm a novice [emoji6].

I backed the torque to 35 lbs/ft and it seems to have helped. My creaking seems to be more prevalent in warmer temps but you seem to be having the opposite experience.

I'll check out the moog parts. I think the UCA's I purchased were from o'reilly. Not cool.


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[gyates93]

I used Moog arms as well, I think they might be a little better than even Honda ones for the creaking.

[ryan427]

Knocked this out today. Upon removal of the upper balljoints, I found both boots were really cracked and both were split. The driver side joint was completely dry and binding. The passenger side was also nearly dry. It's as if neither were ever assembled and packed correctly.

I suppose I'm fortunate they didn't break. Makes me really leery about these parts suppliers although this type of thing hasn't really happened to me before.


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[Oldblueaccord]

Knocked this out today. Upon removal of the upper balljoints, I found both boots were really cracked and both were split. The driver side joint was completely dry and binding. The passenger side was also nearly dry. It's as if neither were ever assembled and packed correctly.

I suppose I'm fortunate they didn't break. Makes me really leery about these parts suppliers although this type of thing hasn't really happened to me before.


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I have not had any luck with boots either. Like you said they split within a year or less. I have been changing them out with the HELP section ones but I don't think they last either.I tried the Honda factory ones as well. Now on my IH scout I prolly got grease boots on there from the 70's. So go figure.

You might want to try tapping the joint for a grease fitting. Its pretty easy and beats changing the joint every year. I have a couple years on mine already and they pass my spring ops checks a few weeks ago.

6861

[Dr_Snooz]

I bought Honda joints and they were awful. The hole in the bushing was too small. So small, in fact, that it didn't matter how much grease you used, the bushing would simply wipe all the grease off as you seated it on the pivot rod. It was a bitch to get the bushing over the rod. Those damned things creaked and scrubbed until I just got sick of listening to it and replaced them. When I pulled them apart, the bushings had torn away from the integrated washer they were cast on. It was an inferior product, purchased from the dealer.

I replaced them with Moog parts and have not heard any noise since.

[ryan427]

I used Moog balljoints this time as you recommended. Easy install and quiet as a mouse. In fact, the noise I was hearing was likely the balljoints since they had no grease. No creaking, no squeaking. My wife told me she is happy that it is "leak and squeak free". Me too. At this point, it is really becoming a pleasure to drive. I need to work on the cooling fans and AC idle boost thingy. Low beams don't work even after installing the new switch. I suspect the wires for both lights are broken. Hey wait a minute... I just highjacked my own thread, completely off topic.


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[ryan427]

So I've been battling this popping noise on the passenger side since replacement of the control arm. I've been through three control arms now all with the same issue. Each time, I thought it was the balljoint failing like the first one did. Since the balljoints are elliptical, I suspected misalignment. Adjustments didn't help but replacement of the control arm did but only for about a week.

Stumped, I broke down and took it to a mechanic. He took one look at it and pointed out the curvature in the control arm that doesn't exist on the driver side control arm. Seems the aftermarket control arms I've been using are shaped incorrectly. The curved part makes contact with the body and makes a "popping" sound. The reason for the replacement "resolving" the popping issue for a week or so is because the paint would dampen the noise a little. When the paint wore away, it would start making noise. This is the theory anyway and will be tested this weekend. The mechanic said he's seen this a dozen times with our cars.

This has been maddening, man! But, I'm glad someone more wise than I was able to see it. Going to hunt a different brand and take a pic side by side so we can see the difference.

Will report back.


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[russiankid]

When I had my 89', the drivers side bushings would always pop when it was hot outside. No matter what I did, it would pop, so I just got used to it and let it be. Maybe it was cheap parts, but I think if you don't get the torque set just right on those bushings you'll end up with some kind of noise.

[Fixedit]

Is everyone torquing them down with the car lifted off the ground or with the vehicle's weight on the suspension? I would try getting bolts down enough to hold the arm on while lifted, then lower the car to get the arm closer to it's operating position before torquing the bolts down. I haven't done it before on these cars but generally if components with rubber bushings are torqued with the suspension hanging down, lowering the weight of the car on the suspension will rip the new bushing because the travel is too drastic for it. Just a thought though, don't know if it applies to these arms.

[ryan427]

Is everyone torquing them down with the car lifted off the ground or with the vehicle's weight on the suspension? I would try getting bolts down enough to hold the arm on while lifted, then lower the car to get the arm closer to it's operating position before torquing the bolts down. I haven't done it before on these cars but generally if components with rubber bushings are torqued with the suspension hanging down, lowering the weight of the car on the suspension will rip the new bushing because the travel is too drastic for it. Just a thought though, don't know if it applies to these arms.

This is enough to get me out in my driveway to try it. Same concept as torquing the lug nuts while resting slightly on the ground. Will report back.


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