88LXi spewing oil

[tuna55]

Folks,

I have searched and found many things, but I am a few rungs down the diagnostics tree and I am having second thoughts.

When the PCV and valve cover breather are pulled and plugged, no smoke is seen at the tailpipe.

With just the PCV back where it belongs, there is a significant amount of smoke in the tailpipe.

With both connected as they are normally, the smoke is pretty overwhelming.

There is oil mist coming from both places at idle and can be seen easily underhood, as well as from the oil fill.

Now, if piston rings/pistons were bad, I would expect the PCV to pour oil out. If the valve seals were bad, I would expect the valve cover vent to pour oil out. Does both mean that both are bad?

Also, why does this setup need for a PCV and a valve cover vent?

When not running on oil, it seems to run OK. It's not fast, but it's easily highway capable. I'll do a compression test this week which will at least condemn a piston or valve (but not valve seal).

Thanks in advance

-Brian

[Dr_Snooz]

A compression test should tell you if you're getting lots of blowby. Have you checked your oil level? If it's high, it will cause smoke out the tailpipe. I'm also wondering if you have a lot of sludge buildup in the PCV breather box preventing it from working properly.

[tuna55]

A compression test should tell you if you're getting lots of blowby. Have you checked your oil level? If it's high, it will cause smoke out the tailpipe. I'm also wondering if you have a lot of sludge buildup in the PCV breather box preventing it from working properly.

Good call on the compression test:

175 - 70 - 50 - 75

I am tearing into it now. I really hope I remember how this mess all goes back together. I can only work in one hour spurts in the evenings when the kids are in bed. So far the exhaust, distributor, water neck thing, and some other doodads are off. The intake is next.

What size is the EGR nut in the exhaust manifold? I left it attached when I pulled the manifold, which was a major pain, but I'd like to pull it out to clean it and also to ease reassembly. Assuming I reassemble it...

[tuna55]

Good call on the compression test:

175 - 70 - 50 - 75

I am tearing into it now. I really hope I remember how this mess all goes back together. I can only work in one hour spurts in the evenings when the kids are in bed. So far the exhaust, distributor, water neck thing, and some other doodads are off. The intake is next.

What size is the EGR nut in the exhaust manifold? I left it attached when I pulled the manifold, which was a major pain, but I'd like to pull it out to clean it and also to ease reassembly. Assuming I reassemble it...

Wow, the intake manifold is unbelievable hard to get to. Those lower bolts must have never been intended to be removed.

[Oldblueaccord]

Wow, the intake manifold is unbelievable hard to get to. Those lower bolts must have never been intended to be removed.

take the head off with the manifold attached.

[tuna55]

take the head off with the manifold attached.

I figured.

I am trying not to do that, since the goal was to leave the ancillaries attached to the intake to avoid forgetting where things go. Looks like I am stuck without doing that.

[Dr_Snooz]

Wait. Are you doing an engine rebuild? It's a lot easier to do the disassembly after removing the motor. If you're worried about getting it back together, lay a sheet of plywood across some saw horses to make a table. When you remove your first part, place it on the top corner of the table. Draw a box around it and label it. Place the next part right next to it, box and label it. Keep moving across and down the table until you're done. Assembly is the reverse of removal.

It looks daunting to see piles of all those parts, but there isn't much that can be switched. If you get stuck, just look at the manual and think things over. You can usually figure it out without too much trouble.

[tuna55]

A ghetto rebuild. Block stays in the car. Tonight I got the head and intake off. I'll pull the Pistons for inspection soon, but right now they look fine and the crosshatch is still there from Honda. No ridge or other cylinder wall scoring.

I intend to bring this thing to the grassrootsmotorsports challenge in the $1008 class. I have $400 or so on the table, and I need a bunch more stuff.

[Vanilla Sky]

That sounds about right for an A motor.

This thing has a good chance of doing pretty well in the $1007.50 category. I'm down to help out at the Challenge, as long as it doesn't turn out to be another Fiero last-minute thrash to get prepped. IT'S NOT PRIMER!!!

[tuna55]

That sounds about right for an A motor.

This thing has a good chance of doing pretty well in the $1007.50 category. I'm down to help out at the Challenge, as long as it doesn't turn out to be another Fiero last-minute thrash to get prepped. IT'S NOT PRIMER!!!

Unless I can fit a 50 shot of nitrous in the budget for the dragstrip, I think it's going to be too slow to be of any real use. Fun, though.

You're more than welcome to help!

So the head is off

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7645/17015906685_c05f046fa7_b.jpg

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Can I get away with a re-ring (assuming the pistons are good) and not hone? I can't figure out a good way to contain the chips if I hone in place.

Also, how much can I deck the block before running into detonation and/or valve/piston clearance issues? Does anyone have an adjustable cam gear that they'd be willing to send within the Challenge budget?

Thanks!

[ryan427]

We can't see your pics but we'd love to! Not sure how many miles you have on your motor, but those compression numbers are a concern.

[Vanilla Sky]

Fixed the pics.

Post a want ad on the GRM board to see if anyone has a budget friendly nitrous system. Even if you don't get it until the weekend of the Challenge, it can be installed in the parking lot. Just watch out for the ants. I've heard of people getting everything together for under $100, but it's usually pieced together from swap meet parts. That's how the really fast guys get their stuff.

[tuna55]

How did you 'fix' the pics?

I have some sweet pictures of four pistons with missing chunks of ring land

[Vanilla Sky]

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7683/16454422564_163726bbe9_b.jpg[/url]

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7721/17050903006_6a4be00fc7_b.jpg

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You have to use the tags to make them work.

[ryan427]

They don't look that bad except for the rings of course. I'm looking using my phone so I might not be seeing everything.


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[tuna55]

All four have broken ring lands between #1 and #2, minor scuffing on the skirt

[Vanilla Sky]

I'm sending him a set of pistons so he can get this thing back together.

[tuna55]

The engine is rebuilt. Now I apparently have a problem. Bear in mind that it ran before I took it apart, just not well.

I was trying to test the fuel pump.

I connected a battery, put the fuel banjo fitting (left side of the rail) into a jar turned the key. Nothing, so I tried it while cranking. Nothing. Am I doing something wrong? I drove it most of the way home, so I doubt the pump is actually bad, but all the same, the engine won't run without gas.

Yes, the tank is full.

What else could I have messed up while tearing the head and stuff out of the car?

[Oldblueaccord]

you must have a wire off somewhere or the main relay is not acting correctly.

Those pistons look nice you should post them in the for sale section!!!! A few have tried it before............

[tuna55]

you must have a wire off somewhere or the main relay is not acting correctly.

Those pistons look nice you should post them in the for sale section!!!! A few have tried it before............


The ground wire was off on the injector harness. It runs great now!

[Oldblueaccord]

The ground wire was off on the injector harness. It runs great now!

Great!

And good deal Vanilla getting you some psitons!

[ryan427]

It runs great now!

What are those compression numbers now? Kudos on rebuilding. I am always in awe of people who know how to tear a motor down and rebuild it. When mine goes, I will attempt to do the same.


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[Bullfrog]

What are those compression numbers now? Kudos on rebuilding. I am always in awe of people who know how to tear a motor down and rebuild it. When mine goes, I will attempt to do the same.


Because it is such a mature platform there is an overwhelming depth of information on how to rebuilt the motor. Really it just takes time, its not 'hard' to do form a mechanical standpoint.

I too am curious of the compression numbers now, lots of good pictures.

[tuna55]

Because it is such a mature platform there is an overwhelming depth of information on how to rebuilt the motor. Really it just takes time, its not 'hard' to do form a mechanical standpoint.

I too am curious of the compression numbers now, lots of good pictures.

It was not exactly a rebuild. I just did valve guides, rod bearings and pistons/rings. Obviously new head gasket and timing belt at the same time. I left the intake connected. My 5 year old and 7 year old did the valve lash on #3 before they got bored with it.

It really isn't hard, just takes time. For most of it I didn't own a functioning floor jack, so that was harder. I've since spent some time "cleaning" the engine compartment from all of the oil mist. I'm also going to redo the exhaust with 2 1/4" scraps I have since the cat is bound to be full of oil and there are a few rust holes. The intake will get done with the same scraps.

No compression numbers just yet. It's not yet insured or registered, so I can't drive it enough to load it up to seat the rings properly. It starts the first time now and runs evenly and has enough power to move itself around the driveway without making any smoke.

[ryan427]

So you'll remove the cat? Let us know how it sounds afterward. My friend keeps telling me it won't sound any different but will yield a little uptick in mpg and performance. I have all of these questions about back pressure and whatnot. Apparently that's not something to worry with on a carbureted motor. Not an expert by any stretch.


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[tuna55]

So you'll remove the cat? Let us know how it sounds afterward. My friend keeps telling me it won't sound any different but will yield a little uptick in mpg and performance. I have all of these questions about back pressure and whatnot. Apparently that's not something to worry with on a carbureted motor. Not an expert by any stretch.


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I figured that the original cat was a mess due to swallowing all that oil, so I cut it out. It actually looked decent, but it got replaced with a 2 1/4" Magnaflow anyway. I had a bunch of leftover 2 1/4" stuff so I build a new flex-pipe-back exhaust out of that and one of my turbo mufflers. I test fitted it last night, so I'll finish weld it all soon and I'll post a video for you. So, Maganflow cat, stock 4-2-1 downpipe, stock flex pipe, turbo muffler.

I reused the flange from the OEM cat.

The best part is that I got $60 for the OEM cat at the scrapyard, and the Magnaflow was $72.

[tuna55]

New exhaust is in. It still has a clicking underhood and the idle is too high for some reason, but here:

http://vid188.photobucket.com/albums/z267/BassettPictures/Mobile%20Uploads/303527BF-5AE4-4282-8080-173BCA88514D_zpsucjl3c7v.mp4

2 1/4" magnaflow catalytic converter, 2 1/4" turbo muffler, and stock 4-2-1 header and stock flex pipe.

[Vanilla Sky]

Did you clean your IAC valve when you had it apart? Those like to gum up and cause idle issues.

[tuna55]

Did you clean your IAC valve when you had it apart? Those like to gum up and cause idle issues.

No, I didn't, but it idled fine before, so I didn't expect any issues there. It's just high, it starts around 1500 and brings itself down to maybe 1200 with time. I checked briefly for vacuum leaks last night my clamping each line coming off the manifold, but no dice. I'll have to keep playing and also looking for that rattle, but last night was just getting the brand new exhaust on there.

Challenge budget

$784.86

"real" (including tools and drinks and such) budget

$883.67

[tuna55]

Is there any sort of fast idle setup for these EFI setups?

If so, which temperature sensor does it use, the green one or the black one? One of those is damaged, but I had thought it was working.

If I remember correctly, one of those works the fans, and one of those works the gauges, so if the fans come on and the gauge reads properly, both sensors are working.

Can you confirm?

Thanks

[Oldblueaccord]

There is a fast idle valve,it is on the backside of the throttle body. It usually is NOT bad.

Could try bleeding the coolant and bleeding it at the IACV. They have coolant running to them and air can get trapped in them mis reading.

Fast idle is usually around 1500 rpm but can be as high as 2000 on some cars. its semi adjustable with the fast idle valve. The top comes off and you can turn the plastic plunger gingerly with a quarter.

[tuna55]

Long time and no update.

Fast idle was caused by me getting one vacuum line wrong. I found this because the EGR CEL was coming on.

No worries.

So I drove it to work today. Mini wheels and used tires work well. Worn out dampers stink.

Tell me about the throttle.

So, I assume that there is some sort of travel limiter, because flooring the pedal results in the throttle overcentering and it feels really odd to drive this way.
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