Still vibrating unsure if mounts..help?

[lxidavid]

Ok, So about 3 ago I posted about my motor mounts possibly being shot. Well today I changed the rear, driver side, and front mounts on my 1988 LX-I. I removed the old mounts, holy crap were they thrashed....so, I installed the new ones. The vibration remains. :hmph: I was told that the underlying problem might be the top "dog bone mount" I am almost certain that it just might be.

So this one?
7154

Is it difficult to replace?

[ryan427]

I doubt that is the issue. That mount should be replaced if worn but, its role is more to absorb the torque than vibration (it's called the torque strut mount). Mine got a little better when I replaced all the mounts. But if there is still a vacuum leak somewhere, the vibration will persist. And on our cars, a vacuum leak is almost always the issue.


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[Dr_Snooz]

If your idle speed is set to factory spec (ie: 750 rpm), it will cause a lot of vibration. A better speed is 900-1000.

[lxidavid]

Is there any way of manually changing that. If that is the case, where do I begin? Almost certain it is not a vacuum leak, no implications of one.

[ryan427]

Idle stop screw is located on the back of the carburetor. It has a black "knob" on it so you can turn it by hand. Adjust, rev, adjust. Piece of cake and you can knock it out in 20 minutes.


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[derolph]

Idle stop screw is located on the back of the carburetor. It has a black "knob" on it so you can turn it by hand. Adjust, rev, adjust. Piece of cake and you can knock it out in 20 minutes.
He has an LX-I, so he has no carburetor; it's fuel injected.

[ryan427]

I'm an idiot. Sorry. I bounce from post to post and get mixed up.


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[Dr_Snooz]

So, no one gonna step up and tell this noob how to do it?

Sheesh.

[Demon1024]

Why didn't you? I'm sure you know... That is, if the idle isn't already above spec. To adjust there is a screw on throttle body on top near air intake to adjust idle (these can leak seal here). If you are already at or over 1k rpm you have another problem. Either mismatch compression or valve adjustment or another cylinder specific irregularity. Total tune up and compression test time! Or maybe your dizzy is going crazy with timing... You need to check basics and work from there unless you're at a 750 idle. I'll put my monies on uneven compression due to valve adjustment or damage... oil contamination from valve seals or bent from carbon in cylinder. Do a comp test and give results

[lxidavid]

Why didn't you? I'm sure you know... That is, if the idle isn't already above spec. To adjust there is a screw on throttle body on top near air intake to adjust idle (these can leak seal here). If you are already at or over 1k rpm you have another problem. Either mismatch compression or valve adjustment or another cylinder specific irregularity. Total tune up and compression test time! Or maybe your dizzy is going crazy with timing... You need to check basics and work from there unless you're at a 750 idle. I'll put my monies on uneven compression due to valve adjustment or damage... oil contamination from valve seals or bent from carbon in cylinder. Do a comp test and give results

OK, so I'll try adjusting, and if that doesn't work I'll try the compression check. Adjusting it. Is it tough?


EDIT: It is not tough. I managed to do it. I fixed it and now the problem ceases to exist, and the car does not vibrate at stops. Thank you all for your help! Gladly appreciated.

[tehpimpass3]

put the car in park an have someone push the car forward an backward if the engine moves significantly then its your mounts

[derolph]

EDIT: It is not tough. I managed to do it. I fixed it and now the problem ceases to exist, and the car does not vibrate at stops. Thank you all for your help! Gladly appreciated.
Can you share with us what you did to fix it? Sure would be helpful to know.

[Dr_Snooz]

Can you share with us what you did to fix it? Sure would be helpful to know.

He adjusted the idle.


Why didn't you?

Cuzidonwanna.