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View Full Version : 89 Accord Power Steering Gearbox



princeelu
01-19-2003, 01:32 AM
OK I've looked and found out what's wrong with my power steering...looked at the shop manual and found the power steering gearbox. Compared it to the car and found a problem. Dripping is found on passenger side boot of gearbox.

Question 1: If I buy a remanned power steering rack, what does that package include?

Question 2: Can I just take apart the gearbox and replace seals myself or is there a better way?

Thanks!

markmdz89hatch
01-19-2003, 01:42 AM
hmm... ...I'm very interested in this myself, as it seems I'm having the exact same trouble.

Mike's89AccordLX
01-19-2003, 01:46 AM
Mine is low on fluid maybe I should check for a leak.

ACCORD EX
01-19-2003, 03:30 AM
i think there is a seal rebuild kit ( OEM ) sold for the whole rack including gearbox seals !

MIKE

AZmike
01-19-2003, 12:52 PM
Considering the system complexity I'd just get a new rack. The only seal kit I remember finding when mine rack crapped out was at nopi.com for about $60.

My Crown remanufactured rack came with everything from the tie rods in. It comes with control valve assembly, new dust boots and a fresh coat of paint (so they can tell if you pulled it apart for warranty purposes I'm guessing). You need to move your tie rod ends over, bolt on the splined steering shaft, then connect the 4 PS lines. Mine was $140 with a $30 core. About 6000 miles so far and no problems. It's tested at the factory--which is good since the install is such a bitch I hope I never have to mess with it again. IF it does go it still has a lifetime warranty.

It's worth the extra $80 to me to only have to install the rack once. What if you replace the seals and it still leaks?

Of course before bothering with the rack check all the simple stuff like fluid level and belt tension. Remove the control valve cover and clean everything and find where the fluid is going if you have a leak. If it's just a noise there's a TSB related to that I could post if you like (and don't feel like searching sinceI know I already put it on the board somewhere). Sorry about the long post, hopefully this helps someone.

princeelu
01-19-2003, 01:21 PM
cool - that's some great feedback. So I've narrowed it down to replacing the rack/gearbox (remanned comes with everything).

Where would be the best place to get one?

AZmike
01-19-2003, 07:15 PM
Call around all your local parts stores first. Ask about price, brand, warranty, and core fee. I found the best deal at an import parts store. You'll also need lots of Honda PSF: 5 bottle minimum I'd say. Keep us posted on your progress. I'll try to help if you have any questions.

accordboricua
01-19-2003, 07:27 PM
I got the remanufactured one from Pep Boys...it's got lifetime warranty got it for 150...it's been two years now it works great...I did the job my self.

princeelu
01-23-2003, 06:07 PM
OK...got my remanned rack from Kragen...looks good - a few bolts here and there...

What's this about flushing and refilling p/s fluid? How do I do that? Any shop manual with details on this?

Also do I gotta do alignment after this?

Thanks for all the help so far.

markmdz89hatch
01-24-2003, 05:30 AM
...also, how much of a pain in the ass is this to do?

I've never done this before, and want to know what I'm getting myself into. What's the book say for labor on this job? I'm retarted, so I'll have to allot about twice that much time.

...any words to the wise for doing this before I buy it and get cozy under the car? Anything I should replace while I'm under there?

thanks guys.

AZmike
01-24-2003, 10:41 AM
If you can a good work surface, a good metric tool set, and some jackstands plan on spending about a day. My rack swap was my first big job. I was never very difficult technically, just a long sequence of steps. Stuck fasteners will probably slow you down more than anything.

To flush your PSF disconnect the feed line into the resevior and set it so it will dump fluid into a jug or coffee can or something. Then add PSF to the resevior with the engine (pump) running tuns the steering wheel slwoly back and forth (I think, it has been a while). If you decide to do it yourself I can check the specifics. My rack came with a sheet that described the proceedure in detail.

Yes, you really should get an alignment after this. Your toe will be off. You can try to eyeball it to get it reasonably close, but you're wear down your tires really fast if you don't have a real alignment done soon after.

You should pick up a 'pitman arm puller' while at the autoparts store to remove the tapered tie rod ends from the front upright.

I'm not sure what the going rate for this job is. I just remember it was way more than I would pay to not have to try myself.

While under the car check for leaks in general. When your tie rod ends are off check them for play.

Any other Questions?

princeelu
02-06-2003, 06:33 PM
Wow...after two weeks!!! And some minor problems...

The rack is out and on the garage floor. Now I need to get the end links off...it's a real b!tch. I've tried Liquid Wrench, WD40...what next? Take it to a shop?

BTW, minor problems were the exhaust manifold nuts gettin all smashed up cuz we torqued it too much...had to take it to Midas cuz we got scared...and then we forgot to tighten the bolts on the front tires...yeah...it's been an eventful 2 weeks.

Any suggestions? 1 more week for the core fee deposit...

AZmike
02-07-2003, 10:06 AM
I used PBlaster on the exhaust nuts. They're self-locking so they tend to drag much more as you turn them than you might expect.

To get the tie rod ends off I'd just try two really long wrenches and some good penetrating spray (I never had much luck with WD-40 and have never used liquid wrench). If that's not working a shop might be williing to help you out for not too much money. Since the old rack is going away you might be able to get away with more damaging methods like using pipe a wrench on the tie rod as long as the core place isn't too picky.

Be sure to count the threads on each side when you remove the ends. It will help you do a better self-alignment before you go out and get a real one when you're finished.

Also, be very careful when you're screwing the PS lines back into the rack. The aluminum threads aren't very strong. It wouldn't be hard to strip them.

AccordEpicenter
02-07-2003, 10:30 PM
PBlaster is awesome stuff... If you cant get the nut off with that stuff just let it sit overnight... works soo well its scary