Samwise
03-05-2016, 08:04 PM
Didn't see anyone else do this yet, so here goes. To be able to follow this guide, you need to have deleted EGR and converted to OBD1.
It pays to use fresh vacuum hose whenever possible.
To start off, unbolt your black box. Unplug all the vacuum lines leading to the box from the metal vacuum line bundle on the intake manifold (which I will refer to hereafter as "the evil metal spaghetti"), and disconnect the 6-pin connector. Unplug both ends of the vacuum line running between the evil metal spaghetti and the charcoal canister.
Once that's done, take out the four screws holding it together and split the two halves. You'll see a bunch of random ass colorful valves that look like they came out of some fruity steampunk enthusiast's wet dream. The only thing absolutely required for the engine to run right is the MAP sensor, although if you're still running your charcoal canister, the EGR vacuum solenoid valve (VSV) is worth keeping as it also works the canister's purge valve. Both of these should have their own connectors. On post-facelift Accords, the solenoid valve that controls the secondary intake butterfly is also in here, but getting rid of it keeps the butterfly open. I've heard keeping it open improves performance, so I would suggest getting rid of it.
Find a suitable spot to mount your MAP sensor and whichever other valves you've decided to keep. I used self-tapping bolts to mount them to the firewall. If you're keeping the EGR valve for your charcoal canister, run a vacuum line between one side of the valve and the canister.
At this point, you can do one of two things. If you're fine with allowing the evil metal spaghetti to continue existing, hook up the MAP sensor and VSV to any of the metal tubes that connect to the intake manifold, and cap off the rest.
OR
If you'd rather get rid of it, you'll need to relieve fuel pressure (the shop manual says how to do it) and unbolt the fat fuel line on the passenger side of the fuel rail. This'll give you the room to yank it out after unbolting it. Unplug all the vacuum lines connected to it at the manifold and send it packing. Find suitable vacuum ports to connect to the MAP and VSV, and cap the rest. If you have a pre-facelift, there'll be a line running from the dashpot to the throttle body with a check valve in the middle; you'll want to reconnect this.
Also on pre-facelifts, the idle control solenoid valve can be removed as the OBD1 ECU doesn't do a damn thing with it.
And that's it. Enjoy your clean(er) engine bay.
Pics forthcoming.
It pays to use fresh vacuum hose whenever possible.
To start off, unbolt your black box. Unplug all the vacuum lines leading to the box from the metal vacuum line bundle on the intake manifold (which I will refer to hereafter as "the evil metal spaghetti"), and disconnect the 6-pin connector. Unplug both ends of the vacuum line running between the evil metal spaghetti and the charcoal canister.
Once that's done, take out the four screws holding it together and split the two halves. You'll see a bunch of random ass colorful valves that look like they came out of some fruity steampunk enthusiast's wet dream. The only thing absolutely required for the engine to run right is the MAP sensor, although if you're still running your charcoal canister, the EGR vacuum solenoid valve (VSV) is worth keeping as it also works the canister's purge valve. Both of these should have their own connectors. On post-facelift Accords, the solenoid valve that controls the secondary intake butterfly is also in here, but getting rid of it keeps the butterfly open. I've heard keeping it open improves performance, so I would suggest getting rid of it.
Find a suitable spot to mount your MAP sensor and whichever other valves you've decided to keep. I used self-tapping bolts to mount them to the firewall. If you're keeping the EGR valve for your charcoal canister, run a vacuum line between one side of the valve and the canister.
At this point, you can do one of two things. If you're fine with allowing the evil metal spaghetti to continue existing, hook up the MAP sensor and VSV to any of the metal tubes that connect to the intake manifold, and cap off the rest.
OR
If you'd rather get rid of it, you'll need to relieve fuel pressure (the shop manual says how to do it) and unbolt the fat fuel line on the passenger side of the fuel rail. This'll give you the room to yank it out after unbolting it. Unplug all the vacuum lines connected to it at the manifold and send it packing. Find suitable vacuum ports to connect to the MAP and VSV, and cap the rest. If you have a pre-facelift, there'll be a line running from the dashpot to the throttle body with a check valve in the middle; you'll want to reconnect this.
Also on pre-facelifts, the idle control solenoid valve can be removed as the OBD1 ECU doesn't do a damn thing with it.
And that's it. Enjoy your clean(er) engine bay.
Pics forthcoming.