Cracking the Auto Tranny

[bcookt06394]

I am trying to get the auto tranny apart at the bellhousing to replace the gasket and get to the diff. However, after removing all the bolts, it'll only come apart 15mm or so. What gives (literally)? I'm assuming that the input shaft is the hold up, but I can't see anything to release it. I tried whacking it with a mallet, but nothing happened, hopefully!
thanks in advance!

[Sean]

youve already ruined the tranny. the counter and mainshaft bushings are most likely scored. also there is no gasket for the casing halves. its a flat fit with no sealant from the factory. good luck my advice would be to take it to a shop that specialize in honda trannys and have it gone through by a professional that not an easy tranny to rebuild.

[doug]

there is agasket between the transmission housing and the torque converter housing, if thats the one you want to replace.
you have to remove the end cover cause there are the mainsahft and countershaft locknuts

[njpeter]

of doing this right,,at some point I may tear into my bad auto tranny to see exactly what was broken..new parts are expensive, junk trannies aren't...I'm not going for a rebuild..too much ( more then I pay for a running car). I figure I can fix a bad tranny in about ten hours of labor..doesn't look all that tough..I've done motorcycle engines and gearbox work..and outside of a couple of special tools..it doesn't look all that rough.

I picked up that 87 lx motor and auto tranny offa ebay last month for $150..that should give me a good tranny for the wap..I have the engine and tranny off the junker DX..might use that for some parts..What'd I'd like to find is a basket case auto that's already out of the car and opened up..but summer is coming...:-)

[bcookt06394]

Well, this is only a short term solution. This tranny only needs to last until April 6, and there will be less than 100 miles put on it between now and then. My primary goals are power to the wheels and no leaks. The gasket was broken when we removed the engine and tranny so I need to remedy the leak somehow. For this purpose, I'm open to wrapping the thing in Saran wrap to keep ATF off the track. Leaks=disqualified. I also want to weld the diff, and I can do this with the small gap I already have, though it would be easier if I can get it completely apart.
After this GRM competition is over, we're going to manual tranny for rallying when we have a bigger budget. I just can't spend any money on the tranny now if I want those Koni yellows.
Back to the original question, does the main casing slide off of the gearing, or does the torque converter housing come off of the front? If anyone has some scans of the Honda shop manual, that would help a lot. Haynes won't touch the auto tranny and I'd have to include the cost of the shop manual in the total budget.
thanks again for your help and support! If we get a sunny day soon, I get some more pics up on the website.

[2old_honda]

you can download the shop manual from pauls website. here is the link http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html

[89AccordNate]

They dont make koni yellows for our accords, only the koni reds.

Nate.

[bcookt06394]

No, but they make them for '88 CRXs. There's a little more engineering involved, but the end justifies the means.
thanks a mil for the link to the shop manual!!! I'll let you know how it goes.

[Sean]

there a end housing where there are 2 nuts. remove the nuts. the casing will slide off. but you also have to be careful not to score the bushings on reassembly. good luck and use rtv to seal the case halves.