Weber carb swap

[87rustbucket]

Want to install a weber 32/36 DGEV to cleanup the engine bay of vacuum lines, and slightly more power and the same good mpg. Car runs like a top right now even with 316000 miles.

First off I know that there already a few other threads and how to's else where but they have a lack of pictures, and want some clarification.

From what I understand all but 1 vacuum hose is removed(vac. adv. Stays), then fuel line and egr, and that's it if I understand correctly. Is that right? Also I want to mount the carb directly on the manifold by drilling and tapping new holes after the old ones are filled in with jb weld. Any success stories doing that?

Finally did the carbs need a lot of tuning to run right after the install? It seems that people installing the weber 32 36 on other models of cars are having trouble tuning them, is that just those cars?

Pictures would be awesome.

Thanks

[87rustbucket]

Where does the egr come from?

[2ndGenGuy]

You can't really properly use the EGR with the Weber carb. The stock carb has an EGR lift port that opens it under the right running conditions. I mean, you could hook it to manifold vacuum, and see how it works, but there's not a lot of point. Most people just buy an EGR plate on eBay and block it off.

There might be a way to make it work properly, but you'd have to refer to the diagnostics in the factory service manual.

[87rustbucket]

So the vacuum advance is the only vacuum line needed for the weber?

[2ndGenGuy]

Yup.

[InAccordance]

It was much much easier just to buy the adapter plates. Only thing you have to do is plug a hole(think it was a coolant line, cant remember for sure) under the plates and then it's just bolt er up. Rip out all the vac junk (great fun) cept the dizzy and brake booster. I had a link to a good jet setup which is what I've got my old weber running on. I'll see if I can find it.

[87rustbucket]

It was much much easier just to buy the adapter plates. Only thing you have to do is plug a hole(think it was a coolant line, cant remember for sure) under the plates and then it's just bolt er up. Rip out all the vac junk (great fun) cept the dizzy and brake booster. I had a link to a good jet setup which is what I've got my old weber running on. I'll see if I can find it.

Yes there is a coolant line that needs to be pugged, got some JB weld for that, along with some gasket sealer to prevent vacuum leaks (the easier solution wins). Did you find out what size jets you used?

[InAccordance]

Actually I lost the file. Or at least I cant find it anywhere. Had it saved as a text document. Pretty sure it was one of the lists in the Carb Tech forum. Tried one out and it worked well.

[87rustbucket]

OK so these are the jet sizes in the carb right now

Mains:
Primary:135 Secondary:135
Air correction
Primary:170 Secondary:160
idle
Primary:55 Secondary:50
Accelerator pump jet: 50 (only one outlet, which is on primary barrel)

Would these work? I see this thread for a DCOE setup is that accurate for my setup?
http://www.3geez.com/forum/carburetor-tech/4223-post-weber-jet-32-36-38-sizes-venturi-sizes-dcoe.html

[2ndGenGuy]

No....DCOEs are a whole different beast. You should start with the stock sizes that come with the carb, and adjust the idle jet according to the Weber Lean Best Idle Adjustment sheet, which is a PDF you can print off that will help you determine if your idle jet is too small or too big.

[87rustbucket]

OK, thanks. I'm going to try to get it installed this week and have a decent tune by Friday. Can't wait to rip out those annoying vacuum lines and EGR and have a much cleaner looking engine. Anyone want a stock carb that has 100,000 miles on it?:) No takers?

[InAccordance]

ha! Guy I bought this car off of gave me 3 spare carbs so now I have 4. One was a reman though, may try and sell that one =P

[RustyG3ears]

What made the old carbs so terrible? Every mechanic I ask tells me they suck but can't explain why. They're goofy, I know that, but is it bc they're way too complex or not ballsy enough?

[87rustbucket]

They are just fine as long as they are working, but as soon as they get a problem its can be a nightmare to fix. Mine just started getting Idle issues, adjusted the idle screw but didn't help, probably some 30-year-old solenoid gone bad or a vacuum leak in one of the 100 vacuum lines, who knows. Besides the better performance is almost worth it by itself.

That's my opinion anyway.

[2ndGenGuy]

They're not really terrible for how long they last. They have a lot of advanced semi-computerized controls on them, which to people who don't know them, it's black magic. It's not really though, you just gotta read the manual on how the carbs work.

I can see a mechanic not wanting to learn how to work on one, because the time involved learning it wouldn't be worth it just to fix one car. Doubtful many people are bringing their $1000 DX Accords into mechanics to spend hundreds on repairs.

[Limatt88ia]

Which weber did you use? 601?551?697? There is a few weber dgev 32 36 with those numbers after it which is ours?

[2ndGenGuy]

Where are you seeing those numbers? I am pretty sure that no matter what DGEV you buy, you'll end up with the same carb. I've never paid any attention to that number, and I've had a few DGEVs and they were all pretty much identical. You'll only find the really weird Webers when they came on a car from the factory... Or some of the really old ones...

[POS carb]

All about the same... main differences are the choke (manual, electric, themal) and the air filter mounting flange (rectangular vs oval)

EGR valve cannot be hooked to direct manifold vacuum.

Those jet sizes look close, you may actually want slightly larger primary/secondary main jets than 135. I think I was running 140p/160s