Headlight fuse question 89 accord dx

[89hatchieaccord]

89 accord DX carbed, manual...So I was poking around behind the steering wheel trying to figure out why my turn signals aren't working and foolishly bridged a connection with a screwdriver and blew my headlight fuse. It's one of those 40a bent plate male pacific type fuses. Apparently they're hard to find so I ordered a pack of 5 that won't get here for a couple weeks. Auto parts store said they have the same type of fuse in stock but it's a 120a. Could I use that as a temporary fix or is it a bad idea to replace the 40a with 120a? Thanks!

[Oldblueaccord]

89 accord DX carbed, manual...So I was poking around behind the steering wheel trying to figure out why my turn signals aren't working and foolishly bridged a connection with a screwdriver and blew my headlight fuse. It's one of those 40a bent plate male pacific type fuses. Apparently they're hard to find so I ordered a pack of 5 that won't get here for a couple weeks. Auto parts store said they have the same type of fuse in stock but it's a 120a. Could I use that as a temporary fix or is it a bad idea to replace the 40a with 120a? Thanks!

The fuse protects the wire from to many amps melting the wire. Putting a fuse thats rated 3 times what its called for is never a good idea.

I really think you should be able to find these fuses pretty quick a couple weeks sounds like a long time.

[89hatchieaccord]

Hey thanks. Yeah I actually was able to hunt around and find the right one and replaced it. Unfortunately when that fuse blew it must have also caused another short because all my lights and radio went kinda haywire (headlights dim and not flipping up together, brakes turn off radio, clock and dome light dimming with blinkers) Was trying to turn the headlights on and off and smelled melting wires accompanied by smoke coming from the dash. Disconnected the positive battery cable and the entire combo switch and removed the after market stereo. All fuses okay (and proper amperage) including the mini fuse in the back of the stereo. Reconnected the positive cable and the car still started fine until this morning when the gas pedal was first very stiff then loose and completely unresponsive. Probably an unrelated issue with the throttle cable?? Thinking I may need to replace the front cabin wiring harness. One anomaly that I noticed is that the under hood fuses for the ecu clock and interior light had higher amperage fuses installed by previous owner. Replaced those with proper amperage when I replaced the 40a headlight fuse.

[Oldblueaccord]

Hey thanks. Yeah I actually was able to hunt around and find the right one and replaced it. Unfortunately when that fuse blew it must have also caused another short because all my lights and radio went kinda haywire (headlights dim and not flipping up together, brakes turn off radio, clock and dome light dimming with blinkers) Was trying to turn the headlights on and off and smelled melting wires accompanied by smoke coming from the dash. Disconnected the positive battery cable and the entire combo switch and removed the after market stereo. All fuses okay (and proper amperage) including the mini fuse in the back of the stereo. Reconnected the positive cable and the car still started fine until this morning when the gas pedal was first very stiff then loose and completely unresponsive. Probably an unrelated issue with the throttle cable?? Thinking I may need to replace the front cabin wiring harness. One anomaly that I noticed is that the under hood fuses for the ecu clock and interior light had higher amperage fuses installed by previous owner. Replaced those with proper amperage when I replaced the 40a headlight fuse.

Yes fuses sometimes dont blow, not a good feeling.

I would check your grounds, there is one from the valve cover to the radaitor support and one to the trans. If you dont have a good ground the clutch or throttle cable might take the load.

Pull the electrical drawings and start following wires around it sounds like you have some bad wires.