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View Full Version : Overhead view of STAGE 4 Vacuum Delete.



Hondanewb
05-13-2017, 01:29 PM
Here's an overhead pic of my stage 4 vac delete. Searched the sight for weeks without finding a decent diagram to proper routing. Anyhow, here's mine! 333k in 2017, Running smooth and idling right at 850rpm. Pulled the intake manifold and cleaned all the gunk out of it and gave her a new sage spray down.
Pm me if anyones having issues with the vac delete.
8273

Dr_Snooz
05-13-2017, 04:52 PM
Looks a lot better!

Hondanewb
05-14-2017, 12:15 AM
Need a new Dizzy, But the damn thing is like $150 new

Dr_Snooz
05-14-2017, 03:26 PM
You should be grateful. They used to be $350.

Hondanewb
05-15-2017, 03:30 PM
Jeeeeeeeeeeez. Hoping to luck up on my next junkyard pull.

Dr_Snooz
05-15-2017, 06:21 PM
Don't get your hopes up too much. Most will be worse than what you have. The rest will be as bad. $150 is a good deal. Just get a new one if you can at all swing it.

Hondanewb
05-16-2017, 04:17 PM
:werd:

InAccordance
05-18-2017, 09:46 PM
Put a weber on and have 1 line lol...
well 2 if you count the brake booster..

Donnyten
05-21-2018, 04:46 AM
Question. What is the advantage of doing a "vacuum delete "?

InAccordance
05-21-2018, 03:04 PM
Less shit to go bad causing screwy things to happen.

Donnyten
05-23-2018, 11:36 AM
Could this also work for a fuel injected 88 accord as well? Never owned a car this old and im in the process of actually ripping shit apart changing hoses, gaskets, cleaning the bay, etcc.. if i could get rid of some of the spaghetti that would be great but honestly id have no idea what id be doing and dont want to start deleting shit

firefighterwhite89
05-26-2018, 04:42 PM
Could this also work for a fuel injected 88 accord as well? Never owned a car this old and im in the process of actually ripping shit apart changing hoses, gaskets, cleaning the bay, etcc.. if i could get rid of some of the spaghetti that would be great but honestly id have no idea what id be doing and dont want to start deleting shit

Carbs a different animal. No, for fuel injection, it will not without more work like OBD1, etc. There's very limited stuff to rid of until then.

bldir
06-22-2018, 10:38 AM
I installed a weber 38/38 on my 1987 honda accord. I am down to a vacuum for the cruise control (not working???) a vacuum for the brake booster a vacuum for the blend door and a vacuum for the vacuum advance.

My question is how do I apply vacuum to my vacuum advance. There are two vacuums. I have read and read and found out that one is a cold advace and one is a normal advance. How do I hook up the cold advance? Can I if I am not running the black control box? Do I need to purchase a new distributor? or Do I need to purchase a new vacuum advance module?

Is there any interest in the plethora of parts that I removed? My car was running well with good power it just wouldn't idle. If you raised the idle with your foot it ran fine. But I had the 38/38 sitting there staring at me...

BITESIZE
07-30-2019, 09:27 AM
So is it just 4 vacuum lines left?
2 for the distributor
1 for the Brake Booster
1 for the Charcoal canister

ShiRen
07-30-2019, 12:29 PM
You can get away with just the distributor and the power valve. Im planning on snapping some pics tomorrow. The big tee right central in the back of the intake has all the vacuum ports you need, I think the brake booster one has its own on there or its a separate one, I dont remember because I dont have a booster, but it wont get in the way of the rest of the delete, do whatever you want with it
I do have my only other line teed to that vacuum reservoir on the firewall, I think its for hvac. If theres a lot of pressure in the tank when you unscrew the cap you probably ought to delete the charcoal canister too, but its not that res on the firewall. haven't been down that road though

BITESIZE
08-03-2019, 10:39 AM
What did you do with -
1. mechanical secondary
2. choke

I’ve seen someone ziptie their secondary and then I’ve seen the bracket. I’m not to keen on using a ziptie.

What did you use to block off the exhaust manifold for the ports on the Intake Manifold for The EGR.

ShiRen
08-03-2019, 06:28 PM
As for the zip tie I was going to replace it with mechanics wire and use a tool to wind it tight, but its just worked as is. Could also be tac welded

BITESIZE
08-05-2019, 06:42 AM
I started on the carb. On the other side of the carb there is a bracket that you take off and you can use it like this. Works awesome!!!
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/5666/qA1uax.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6572/2REQDD.jpg

ShiRen
08-06-2019, 06:19 AM
hmm. Pretty clever if it opens at about half throttle and opens the secondary fully at wot

BITESIZE
08-06-2019, 05:21 PM
Did you run it on your car yet? That’s the “yellow” piece in the how to. It’s a yellow “brass” piece. Yellow and brass are the same!?!?😂 not to steal your thunder, but I have alottttt of free time at work. 😬

ShiRen
08-07-2019, 04:03 AM
nope lol. I dont usually want to work on my car after work, but I popped my hood and saw it hanging there on the other side of the spring that I didnt bother to rewind.

And for what its worth its not even brass lol, its steel with a zinc coating, I guess the zinc does yellow it, but how you are supposed to figure that out is beyond me

BITESIZE
08-07-2019, 09:37 AM
Red arrow = don't plug
Yellow arrow= plug
Green arrow= coolant
Blue arrow= loop together with vac hose
Orange arrow=Fuel hose


https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6150/WIlN3O.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5085/VB3clE.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/8608/oytgxf.jpg