View Full Version : '76 Accord for STR76

07-19-2017, 11:31 PM
1976 Honda Accord CVCC
Purchased on 07/14/17 - Discovered on Craigslist

2017.07.24 Update:
Being a bicentennial baby myself, I've always fantasized about owning a 1976 vehicle. Grew up taking family road trips through the midwest in my grandparents '78 Civic CVCC wagon. Shared a 1G Prelude with my mom when I first began driving, and later in HS my first car was a '91 Accord 5spd MT coupe. Was part of the '90's street tuner scene (lol) and was able to tinker on all of the popular cars at the time, but my heart was definitely with Honda. I've been feeling over due for another one, haven't owned a Honda since 2002. Continued to browse all the usual spots (craigslist, ebay, thisoldhonda, et cetera) for a couple of years. Not too serious in buying but keeping the eyes open. Saw several '76 Civics pop up over that time, but because of all the sentimental reasons above an Accord seemed like a better fit. If one ever came available. During the search it was obvious 1G Accords were rare and '76 Accords were even more rare. Hoped for a CA car, and really didn't have the means for a ground-up restoration, both of which made the search that much more limited.

Around May '17, I spotted an ad for a '76 Accord for the first time. It was 500 miles north but was in-state and was an original CA car. The sellers were the 3rd owners, who were given the car from their mother in law (2nd owner) who had bought it around '85. The mother in law is a Honda hobby mechanic, and gave the car what TLC she could. Left Ridgecrest about 2 years ago, and has been used as "the beater" on a farm just outside of Chico ever since. Emailed/Texted with the sellers for about 6 weeks. Finally schedule a work trip to Tulare, and then drove the rest of the way north to Chico. The pictures show the barn the car was parked in. It's registered non-op but I was able to take it for a test drive on the roads around the farm. Even hoped on the hwy for a short stretch so I could get it up to speed and shift into 5th. Happened to start the car three different times while checking it out, started up strong every time. It was a nice warm afternoon. No visible black smoke, even when I accelerated on the hwy. Was told the engine was rebuilt about 45k miles ago. No idea mileage of the chassis. Car is pretty close to complete. Of course it's been kept functional by using whatever parts were available. Honda#1 noticed later model taillights, and was told by the previous owners the seats had been replaced by ones in better condition at the time. They're looking a little rough again. The car was also painted at some point but that too has aged again.

Like all of us over 40, it needs some love. lol But for it's age and rarity, I think it's a good example. My first priority is to get it smog and registered. The previous owners are very hopeful it will pass smog without issue, keeping the fingers crossed. Once it's registered my focus would be to make it as mechanically dependable as possible, and once that was in order potential upgrades and styling can be explored.

Hood latch cable needs to be replaced, haven't seen a replacement for this specific fitment so may try a universal replacement or even one for a different Honda model. Of course I'll be looking to the community for advice on all of this... thanks in advance. Also need to look into the driverside door latch. It latches and locks but the door is not closed tightly. On the test drive 5th and reverse were a little fussy to get in, and the clutch pedal was almost completely out before it engaged. Guessing the transmission may need some attention and it'll probably be a good idea to change the clutch.

I like the idea of keeping the car as original as reasonable. Would like to swap back to era correct taillights if I can find room in the budget. Keeping things original is great, but the interior is pretty beat. I may go with more cost affective upgrades that could also provide modern comforts. I had STi seats in my WRX, and currently have a '16 WRX driverseat in my XT, so I'm accustom to a modern driving position with decent ergonomic support. Seats weren't designed like that in the '70's. hahaha I've already seen brand new, generic racing seats on ebay for cheaper than it'd cost to reupholster the current ones. Same sort of thing with the steering wheel. A used original is 2.5-3 times as much as a brand new racing style one could be. No airbags in '76 so it's street legal to run an after market steering wheel. hehehe I've also read the threads on the rear disc brake and 4x100 conversions. Sounds like it can throw you plenty of curveballs but I'm a fan of these kinds of mods. Again budget would be the limiting factor. I've never been a ricer or street racer. Definitely not Too Fast Too Furious. lol I've heard folks coin the term OEM +1. I guess that may describe my cars. Thoughtful mods that improve functionality with the subtleness representing the style. Mild suspension tuning for a sportier feel without compromising drivability on CA roads. Light weight wheels and better tread, but subtle colors and fitment. Not into hella stretched or hella flush. lol Big brakes are my bling. Otherwise I don't mind that the average motorist thinks my car is "stock". I'm truly laughing out loud as I type that, just as cliche as the car show scene or any other fad. But it's an honest look at me.

I look forward to learning from the community, I know there's years of knowledge on these forums. I'm new to the carbureted engine, excited for the experience. Dig the story of the CVCC engine just as much. Feels like I'm coming home, there's a Honda in the garage again. Unfortunately the project will definitely be slow moving, but another interest of mine is video and photo editing so hopefully I can share something worth while often enough to keep this thread alive. Thanks for reading

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4302/35868894382_593559be67_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WDBsDu)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35200346174_5642c99c04_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VCwYyf)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35868894082_5ac4ffc991_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WDBsyj)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4330/35229793913_19d817a77e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VF8UkT)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/35868891942_e060ee2346_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WDBrVq)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4325/35998290856_3c2911fba3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WR3DHb)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4299/35906131161_4a2526e580_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WGUiQV)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4326/35229790443_a142fc8a38_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VF8Tj4)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4321/35650655170_4aafc011bc_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WjjVJs)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4322/35650653790_68910781d8_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WjjVjE)

07-19-2017, 11:33 PM
2018.01.08-12 Orland to Los Angeles
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4662/39084232944_8801ce3421_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22xJUMf)

Fantasy Garage
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4324/35200454524_de836a3ef2_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VCxwLm)


07-19-2017, 11:33 PM
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07-20-2017, 12:33 PM
Nice. Looking forward to content on the reserved posts. How many miles? History?

07-20-2017, 08:04 PM
Congrats! And enjoy the little beauty. Is it really a 76? The taillights are off a 79 but the air intake hose configuration is of a 76-78 era. Interior looks to be 76. Taillights makes it look to be newer. 76 Accords are extremely hard to find so this one is a true survivor. The taillghts should've stayed at least 76-78 on this one to maintain its 76ness on the exterior. I always liked the taillights on those 76-78 Accords vs the newer. 3g hatch taillights configuration goes back to those roots.

07-20-2017, 09:06 PM
Nice. Looking forward to content on the reserved posts. How many miles? History?

I will definitely add the adventure I took to see the car in person, and share the bright future ahead. This weekend I'll update the thread. Thanks for posting.

Congrats! And enjoy the little beauty. Is it really a 76? The taillights are off a 79 but the air intake hose configuration is of a 76-78 era. Interior looks to be 76. Taillights makes it look to be newer. 76 Accords are extremely hard to find so this one is a true survivor. The taillghts should've stayed at least 76-78 on this one to maintain its 76ness on the exterior. I always liked the taillights on those 76-78 Accords vs the newer. 3g hatch taillights configuration goes back to those roots.

The car's title says 1976. Appreciate the expertise. If it's possible to find the correct tailights I'd be interested. As I mentioned above, I'll update this weekend. Thanks for taking a look.

07-21-2017, 07:32 PM
You can always check out www.thisoldhonda.org because there's many listings for parts and part out cars. I think there is a part out 78 Accord hatch in Oregon and the tail lights might still be available. Here is the link:

07-21-2017, 07:35 PM
Also the sellers are willing to ship out many parts (you pay shipping) if you're unable to travel the distance and pick it up.

07-21-2017, 07:43 PM
It is likely a 76 because the wheels on a 79 are different since for 79 Honda started using wider tires than on the 76-78 Accords. Also the front end looks to be very early-like. I've been up close to a 78 and 79 Accord hatch and am able to tell the slight differences. 79 LX also had more velvety seats than the 78 and under. Even the silver color shades were different. The Accord continued to get better and better every year. You have a true survivor being a 1976 Accord. Happy 41st! That's something to be proud of.

07-25-2017, 12:45 AM
Thanks for your prompt help, please keep it coming. It's much appreciated. Already spotted one of the taillights and it's trim on ebay. Not sure I'm going to pull the trigger right away. Need to be sure to get the car registered before anything else. And I prefer your suggestion of possibly finding a pair off of a part out. I'm also looking for a side modeling on the driverside, and a replacement dash would be amazing but not holding my breathe on that one. lol

07-25-2017, 11:16 AM
Yea that one on ebay has been there for a while and probably cheaper getting through a part out.

07-25-2017, 11:21 AM
If the door doesn't latch properly, try wrapping a little electrical tape on the latch in the door jamb that is on the actual body and try to slam it shut hard but not too hard to the point of the glass busting!

07-25-2017, 04:23 PM
Also you might want to get the accelerator cable replaced as you do not want to end up getting stranded and put in a dangerous situation. If that thing goes out, you will only have the engine stay at idle while you are coasting and it would be like you're in a pedal car. You press on the accelerator and nothing happens. Depending where it happens it can be a life or death scenario. I had mine go out yesterday and I felt like I was in the middle of no where. It was dark out and not even close to home. I was out just running errands in the evening and as I pulled out of the Menards parking lot making a turn, suddenly the accelerator became unresponsive. At first I thought the carb was running out of gas so I put on the flashers and tried restarting the car to rev it but I got nothing. It just started up due to still having fuel in there and the engine just ran in idle at 950 to 1000rpm range. The radio, lights, heat were running normal. I was lucky because there was hardly any traffic coming behind me. I managed to make a turn into another main road to the right because of a rail crossing ahead I knew I wasn't gonna make it across and I know trains come when you're least expecting. For a moment I thought the tranny quit because I know I need to replace the fluid. I managed to pull off the road into a grassy area and I put it in reverse and hit the gas but nothing. The car just rolls in reverse so I ruled out that the tranny isn't to blame. I had to call a tow truck to get us home which wasn't very cheap. So today I had time to take a look and I was right. I tried to start it and I couldn't because now its not getting any fuel to the carb. Getting closer. I check the cable and see that it broke at the end where it's hooked to the carb. Now this explains why prior to failing, when I accelerate, rpms would be in the high 4000 range before shifting to 4th which was strange to me. If I knew this was gonna happen, I wouldn't have ventured out with the car. I just thought the car was acting up due to the hot then cooler weather over here.

07-25-2017, 06:39 PM
You mention that the interior is not so great and want to replace the seats instead of reupholstering them for several reasons. If you want a quick fix although not to the cushion level, there are nice ones avaikable on Amazon.



The texture of the fabric makes them "period appropriate" and the Scottsdale style is more velvety. Being available in black would match the black 1976 interior. I am using blue ones in my hatch even though the interior is gray with no tears but I got these before the car since I hoped to pick up a 3gee light blue LX-i hatch. From afar, nobody can tell if they are covers or not. As for the steering wheel, I'd get a cover and slip it over. I've seen a nice one in Wal-Mart (not sure if they have same selection in Cali) but its under $10 or a little over...forgot... anyway its black and has a quilted stitch pattern looks good in a 1gee Accord. But everyone has different taste. I just don't like to do too many mods on these cars because it detracts from their character/personality.

07-25-2017, 07:04 PM
About CVCC:

Honda CVCCengineshave normal inlet and exhaust valves, plus a small auxiliary inlet valve which provides a relatively rich air–fuel mixture to a volume near thespark plug. The remaining air–fuel charge, drawn into the cylinder through the main inlet valve, is leaner than normal. The volume near the spark plug is contained by a small perforated metal plate. Upon ignition flame fronts emerge from the perforations and ignite the remainder of the air–fuel charge. The remaining engine cycle is as per a standardfour-stroke engine.

This combination of a rich mixture near the spark plug, and a lean mixture in the cylinder allowed stable running, yet complete combustion of fuel, thus reducing CO (carbon monoxide) andhydrocarbonemissions. This method allowed the engine to burn less fuel more efficiently without the use of anexhaust gas recirculationvalve or a catalytic converter, although those methods were installed later to further improve emission reduction.

Honda's big advancement with CVCC was that they were able to use carburetors and they did not rely on intake swirl. Previous versions ofstratified charge enginesneeded costlyfuel injectionsystems. Additionally, previous engines tried to increase the velocity and swirl of the intake charge in keeping the rich and lean mixtures separated. Honda was able to keep the charges adequately separated by combustion chamber shape.

**For 1982, CVCC-II was introduced. What that means it was the 2nd generation CVCC engine with the 3 barrel Keihin and a cat converter
. Honda did away with CVCC for 1984 and used the standard block 12-valve engines.*

07-25-2017, 07:41 PM
The 1st gen Accords Also adopted the CVCC-II with Cat late in '80 for the '81 model year, welding in a new patch to the 'trans'-tunnel, moving the frt seats up & revising the shift linkage to make lots of room for the Cat. Along with the revised cylinder head closer to the Non-CVCC design for better airflow. Then revised it again for '82 to swap some intake & exhaust ports around to even out heat loads since they could warp heads & even blocks if overheated (thermo-fan switches all fail eventually) with the extra heat the CVCC lean-burn concept could generate.

Congratulations upon getting a '76. The early ones have a nicer gear-ratio spread & lighter flywheel for a more free-reving feel (suspect changed for '78 & the introduction of the Sedan {USA waited another year}). Though they also have more exciting roll-oversteer due to the short rear transverse suspension arms Honda changed for '79.

Anyway here's the blighter causing your door latching problem.
It clips into the door latch to provide an anti-rattle surface but eventually wears/crushes until the latch is not pushed far enough to latch properly. L&R handed & specific to 1g Accord & late 1g Civics. Last time mine gave problems I carved a replacement from a scrap bit of PVC pipe with a file, (ignoring the thin bit that helps retain it) and glued it onto the latch.

07-25-2017, 07:56 PM
For reference here's my '77 & '79 compared to show the different frt panels, grille & headlight mountings;
(ignore Non-USA bumper/indicator & removed side indicator)
Just to be cruel & point out your RH fender that will likely be a pain to replace since buyers found them starting to rust out within 2-years in salted areas due to the lack of plastic arch-liners, & even Honda started fitting the later parts to cars to placate owners.

Personally I went for 1g Integra frt seats which only required drilling 1 hole to fit but obviously won't be easy to find now either.

Also an option if it took your fancy, I went for a late 1g Civic steering wheel repainted for wood-grain. Bolts straight on, & includes adaptor hub you may want for aftermarket wheels. But if you wanted aftermarket or other Honda wheels the spline pattern didn't change until EK Civic (for adaptors).

07-27-2017, 01:24 AM

These should be remanufactured door-silensers,cool site by the way,lots of Accords/parts also.


07-27-2017, 12:54 PM
Re: CVCC - the big news with CVCC was that emissions were so low the car did not require catalytic converters for the first several years. So unlike most cars of the same model years, Accords could still use leaded gas. Notice that the hole in the gas filler tube is bigger than modern cars. Unleaded pumps used a smaller nozzle. The larger nozzles on leaded gas pumps would not fit into the hole in the filler tube of cars requiring unleaded gas.

Some other possible parts sources:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/595006323860531/ Facebook page for "Old Hondas - New Old Stock Parts". I think you have to "join" the group but if you click to request a join they are pretty quick.
Civic Garage, Your source for 1st Generation Honda Civic parts (http://civicgarage.com/) Civic Garage. Australian seller who also has quite a few 1G Accord parts. Shipping isn't too outrageous and the US>Aussie dollar exchange rate produces some very good prices.
Accord (http://classicgarage.com/accord4.html) They have some stuff for the 1G.
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/ NOS and reproduction parts. Surprising what you can find there.
ebay. The 1G Ebay listing forum here on 3geez is on an RSS feed from eBay so whenever new parts hit, they are listed in the forum. Not always but most of the time. They regularly have various 1G Honda service manuals for not much money. (around $20 with shipping) A very good investment for sure.

Of course finding big parts, things like body panels, seats, dash, etc. or even some things like shocks can be hit-or-miss but if one is patient one can find a surprising number of parts. And don't overlook wrecking yard search sites like car-parts.com

Good luck with the project.


07-27-2017, 12:55 PM
Oh, wait. You're over 40 so you may remember leaded and unleaded gas pumps. ;-)