Progress thread

[InAccordance]

Finally got around to taking a few pics.
http://i.imgur.com/6sGmkz6l.jpg (https://imgur.com/6sGmkz6)

http://i.imgur.com/iTnS2OGl.jpg (https://imgur.com/iTnS2OG)

It's a work in progress but coming along decently.
Not too bad for a 400$ special that barely ran.
Yes I had to use hood risers... I know... carb breather was smacking the underside of the hood and I got those risers for dirt ass cheap. Plus the cool kids love it :lol:

[novws]

Looks great! Keep the pics and updates coming.

[Dr_Snooz]

Finally got around to taking a few pics.

"A few" as in two???? Good grief.

JK, looks good. What are the next steps?

[InAccordance]

Had to repair the louvers so those will go on next.
Needs wheels pretty bad >.>
Going to get ahold of a b-series dcoe manifold and see if it can be modded like the FI intake can be. If so, it's on for a pair of 40 or 45s.
Needs some bodywork done.
Still on the hunt for a manual trans and all that.

[InAccordance]

Louvers on! pics inc tomorrow.

Looks like PS pump is dying. Steering is jittery and sometimes feels like no power assist at all especially when stationary. Making a good awful screech when turning too. Not a whine, literally a screech.

Removed my carb sync rig for the cold weather. She did NOT want to start in the cold with it setup that way. Starts all good now. Choke still works when it wants to but I think the carb is just wearing out. It's a bit old and been through a few rebuilds. Is leaking a little around the throttle shafts which is typical but does show its age.

[Shane86]

Looks Cool looking forward to more updates

[Oldblueaccord]

Louvers on! pics inc tomorrow.

Looks like PS pump is dying. Steering is jittery and sometimes feels like no power assist at all especially when stationary. Making a good awful screech when turning too. Not a whine, literally a screech.

Removed my carb sync rig for the cold weather. She did NOT want to start in the cold with it setup that way. Starts all good now. Choke still works when it wants to but I think the carb is just wearing out. It's a bit old and been through a few rebuilds. Is leaking a little around the throttle shafts which is typical but does show its age.

Little plumbers putty around the ends of the carb shafts will fix that right up!

[InAccordance]

Little plumbers putty around the ends of the carb shafts will fix that right up!

Hm, never though of that... think I've got some laying around. My only worry is having to take the linkage off again and I just got the kickdown cable set perfectly. It actually shifts when it's supposed to and even downshifts now! No more slipping either!

[InAccordance]

Just going to have to post links cause if I post the pics they are gigantic lol

https://i.imgur.com/TQJqnFq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lxSHDJH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5HiTuRy.jpg

Needs paint pretty bad. Going to look into rust repair when the weather warms back up.

Linkage setup for auto trans..
You can see where the air filter got smashed by the hood.
https://i.imgur.com/CP4BSVM.jpg

Engine shot just cause.
https://i.imgur.com/MH9qDOA.jpg

Made a short video of the steering noise..
https://youtu.be/976nWkf_d2g

[Dr_Snooz]

You out of fluid?

[InAccordance]

You out of fluid?

Nope. It's within the min/max lines.

[Dr_Snooz]

I'd say you have a bad pump then.

[InAccordance]

Would tie rod ends make noise like that if they weren't greased properly? Had new ends put on when the steering rack was replaced but dont know if the shop greased them. They are the type with a fitting on them.
Pretty sure on pump going bad too just cause of the hard turning and it will hit hard spots. Like you're in the process of turning the wheel and it'll hit spots where it feels like it loses power and you have to muscle through it.

Considering doing a manual conversion though... PS has been nothing but a pain in the ass.
Pressure hose leaked bad when I got the car, replaced it. Then rack itself starts pouring fluid, replace that, then another hose starts leaking, replace that... now pump going... UGH.

Anyway, thanks for looking.

[Dr_Snooz]

Well, the good news is that there's nothing else left to break!

[InAccordance]

And we're back.. Had some family stuff to deal with so haven't been on in a while.
On the plus side, power steering pump fixed my problems. All is good in the hood with that now.
Also found the electrical culprit. It is in the hazard circuit. Not sure exactly where but when I unplug the hazard fuse under the hood, everything is good. Course, hazards don't work. Signals do though so whatever.
Also backed into the wife's car so in need of a trunk lid if anyone has one😆

[InAccordance]

Suspension is done... finally.
2g Prelude front upper arms are in, adjustable arms for the rear are in, alignment has been set. I can do over 80 now without it being sketchy lol
She rides good af.

[InAccordance]

DCOE intake on the way!
Only cost me 312$ and will be port matched and everything, even will have the proper angle for the forward lean of the engine. CAN'T WAIT!

[Dr_Snooz]

Kick ass!!!

[InAccordance]

First test fit. Nothing hooked up yet, just mounted carbs to intake and put linkage together. Had to rig up a plate to mount the linkage posts on. Looks dirty but it works quite well actually.
Slapped it on to test fitment. Intake slid on like butta and all the room in the world.
Still have to route the old water lines, hook up fuel lines and figure out how to run the throttle cable.
I think I may be able to run the transmission cable on the left side using the linkage there.
Then we pray it runs :inout:
https://imgur.com/FZebzaM
https://imgur.com/htSWx26

[Dr_Snooz]

https://i.imgur.com/FZebzaM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/htSWx26.jpg

Dang bro. Somebody vandalized your valve cover!

JK looks great!

[DanJDT]

That looks freggin amazing. Keep it up.

[InAccordance]

It's alive!
After spending hours in the 90 degree sun, it runs... like shit haha. Actually does great under wot but having idle issues. I can get it stable at 1500 rpm but below that it gets shaky and pops a lot. Also drops hard when I put it in gear. Drops down to 500ish rpm. Seems odd to me that it would drop that much. Only would drop about 200rpm with the 32/36 on it.
Any ideas there?
Next step is tuning. Got them sync'd the best I can. Just needs to be gone through and jetted for the engine.
But, IT'S ALIVE!

[InAccordance]

The valve cover, someone here did it for me but I cannot for the life of me remember who it was lol. It came from the gold accord I had over 5 years ago. Held onto it all this time.

[InAccordance]

Updated pic with everything hooked up. My linkage is ghetto as hell but it works.
https://i.imgur.com/CqSLSB8.jpg

[Dr_Snooz]

Looks sick!

[Fixedit]

Awesome build! What header are you running?

[InAccordance]

Obx brand. Can get em off eBay for around 200$ shipped. You can still find pacesetter ones but they are around 400$

[Fixedit]

Ah okay yeah, I was thinking that was obx but that thick ass flange threw me off. I’m not sure where to find pacesetters anymore):

[InAccordance]

Hm, actually found one for a reasonable price
https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer/headers-and-exhaust/pace-setter/86-89-honda-accord-85-87-prelude-si-2-0l.html
It's a 4-2-1 style. The OBX is a 4-1 style.
There is a difference from what I remember as far as performance goes but I dont recall what it is lol

[InAccordance]

So after tinkering for days now, still idles like shit but I am figuring things out. Got new jets on the way... going to a 45f9 vs the 55f8 I currently have. Idle jets are WAY to rich right now. I'm at 2 1/2 turns outs on the idle mixture screws which is wayyyyyy too much but it's the only way to make the idle stable(ish). Carbs are sync'd as best I can. Plates are just visible on the 1st progression hole on all 4 plates which is where it's supposed to be. Linkage did have a bind in it but fixed that.
Has a stumble on light throttle but if you give the beans off idle, doesn't stumble at all. Go figure.
Started collecting parts for the Ford EDIS timing conversion. Going with a megajolt setup. A big part of my idle issue is timing. Vacuum advance isn't getting a solid signal off the one runner it's currently on so that's disabled for now and I advanced the distributor by rotating it. Temporary fix but it did help the idle out a lot.
Plus, at least then I'll have a programmable timing curve which will be nice.
Also determined that the factory throttle cable does not have enough travel to fully open the carbs. Working on a solution for that.
Honestly surprised I haven't blown this thing up yet:devil:
So continues my adventure..

[Dr_Snooz]

That EDIS is interesting. I can't wait to see you what you do with it.

[InAccordance]

Most difficult part will be mounting the timing wheel to the harmonic balancer but I did find a website that makes the rings and my idea is to have a shop cut out the a/c belt part and mount it there. That way I can keep the power steering belt on. The rest is just collecting parts which are actually pretty cheap. The megajolt unit is only 179$ with a TPS activation and they make kits for webers to mount a TPS.

[2ndGenGuy]

Hey so what cam are you running? I feel like everybody goes with a 272, then it idles like shit and has no bottom end torque at all. At least that's what I'm experiencing on my A18/DCOE setup.

[InAccordance]

Just stock cam for now.
I've narrowed my problems down to timing. With the advance disconnected, it is ALOT more responsive and screams like hell BUT wont idle to save its life and backfires like mad. With the advance connected, doesn't backfire much but spits out the carbs and is sluggish to respond to throttle.
My jets are off too but I do have news ones on the way so just a waiting game on that.
Cams are very difficult to find anymore, none of the old makers even do them now. The only one I've found is Webcam but the numbers on their website dont make a whole lot of sense.

[2ndGenGuy]

I would think that most shops who can do cam regrinds, should be able to do these. Maybe they don't have the specs of what to grind them to?

If not, I know at least Delta Cams in Tacoma, WA. Or Colt Cams up in BC. Colt does the "Tri-Flow" cams where they open one valve before the other one to promote more swirl in the combustion chamber and supposedly some more bottom end torque compared to a standard regrind. Never have really seen any dyno comparisons though.

[InAccordance]

Hm, stuff to keep in mind. I know Webcam has a few left in stock but again, the numbers they post on their site are funky. I did call them a while back and got numbers for one of them but I lost the paper I wrote it on so need to call them again.

What did you do with your timing on your a18? I'm having a hell of a time with it.
Seems like I cant have both a stable idle and good performance. I can get it to run smoothly where it wont stumble on light throttle but then it wont idle for shit. Or I can get the idle stable but they run like crap and backfire bad.
I'll know more once the new jets come in.

[Donnyten]

do u have ur lower timing cover on and just the top one off? or both off and if so, will u leave it that way?

[2ndGenGuy]

I haven't done anything crazy with the timing. That might explain why I have no pickup until about 3000rpm. It's literally bog bog bog, then it rips. All I have really done to set the timing is set it by ear. It idles fairly well, but it is lumpy, due to the cam. Idle is set around 1000rpm.

It really takes forever to get the carbs warmed up. And until they're warm, they will hardly run at all. I really should hook up a cable to the starting circuit LOL.

I think in the next few weeks, after I'm done with my Lemons race, I'll probably dive into this car a bit more. It's been months since I tried to run it last.

[InAccordance]

do u have ur lower timing cover on and just the top one off? or both off and if so, will u leave it that way?

Top one is off, got to rice it up a bit ya know. Actually just took it off when changing the water pump and just never put it back lol.

[InAccordance]

@2ndgenguy ah, ive been screwing with the timing, want to avoid having the low end run like crap. Does pretty good but there is a definite pickup above 3k. The edis conversion should fix the low end issues. From what I've been reading, you can't use a vacuum advance reliably unless you tap each runner and run them into a can to stabilize the signal. Does explain why if I unhook the advance, it will scream in the low end but has problems with pinging and backfires like crazy.

[InAccordance]

We've done it boys, she is purring like a kitten finally. Ended up putting the 55f8 idle jets back in but left the 190 air correctors in. Seems to love that combo.
Pulls fucking HARD and I got my first speeding ticket with it the other day :lol:
That sound... worth every fukken penny.
Having an issue though with the distributor... right as it hits 4k the tach jumps around and there is a slight drop in power. Literally lasts less than a second but it's there. Once it gets past that, completely fine the rest of the way. I've only taken it to 7k so far, dont want to blow it up pushing it further =P
Collecting parts for the EDIS conversion anyway so not too worried about it tbh.

Now to find a manual transmission....

[Donnyten]

We've done it boys, she is purring like a kitten finally. Ended up putting the 55f8 idle jets back in but left the 190 air correctors in. Seems to love that combo.
Pulls fucking HARD and I got my first speeding ticket with it the other day :lol:
That sound... worth every fukken penny.
Having an issue though with the distributor... right as it hits 4k the tach jumps around and there is a slight drop in power. Literally lasts less than a second but it's there. Once it gets past that, completely fine the rest of the way. I've only taken it to 7k so far, dont want to blow it up pushing it further =P
Collecting parts for the EDIS conversion anyway so not too worried about it tbh.

Now to find a manual transmission....

converting to a manual?

[2ndGenGuy]

Tach jumping around sounds like a bad igniter. I had about 5 of them go out on my 1g Accord. Apparently they aren't always replaced when they rebuild distributors. That was what prompted my MegaJolt conversion.

[InAccordance]

converting to a manual?

Yea, if I can find the stuff I need. Apparently they don't exist where I live. Checked the junkyards around me, all automatics.

[InAccordance]

Tach jumping around sounds like a bad igniter. I had about 5 of them go out on my 1g Accord. Apparently they aren't always replaced when they rebuild distributors. That was what prompted my MegaJolt conversion.

I'm, never had one go bad so don't know the symptoms. I do have one that came off a fuel injected engine, would that work or are the fi ones different?

[Dr_Snooz]

x2 on igniter. My tach finally stopped jumping around when I replaced it. There is a test for them on p. 24-9 of the manual, which is well worth doing.

For the trans, have you tried mantrans.com? They won't be able to get you a pedal box or shifter or anything, but my trans from them is sure working nice.

[InAccordance]

I'll check it out, thanks for the tip.
That website name... sounds... amusing lmao

What did it cost you from them with shipping and all that?
I just looked and they list exactly what I'm looking for... even have a Prelude one which I would actually prefer if I had the choice. Something about the Prelude gears being shorter and such.

[2ndGenGuy]

For the love of god, get the Prelude gears. The Accord gears are so far apart, you're either at redline, or you've dropped down to 2500rpms and lost all your power. Really killed me last weekend on the race track lol. You'll really notice it if you end up getting a cam. Maybe not as bad on a stock motor, since it's got a pretty flat torque curve.

[InAccordance]

I remember when I had the 2g Prelude, it ripped through gears. 1st and 2nd felt so short in that car.
The big thing with them back then was to take a 1g Integra gear box and use that. Also some guys would take 5th out of an accord just to have highway cruiseability and better mpg.
Pretty much unicorn parts now..

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah, I swapped a 2g Prelude (carb) transmission into my 84 Accord. What a difference that made. Pretty sure the ES motor did not like running 4500RPM down the highway though in 5th gear. I need to verify if the 2g Prelude Si transmission has shorter gears too. As much as I'd like the hybrid trans, I think that a stock trans with decent gears should be good enough. The A20 is pretty torquey, and I am not sure if the extra short Integra gearing is going to be all that beneficial, or just make me shift gears all the time...

[InAccordance]

Are the prelude carb and FI transmissions different?
I know the SI one will work on the accord but don't know about the carb one.

[InAccordance]

Any ideas on if a carb prelude trans will work on the a20? I actually found a manual Prelude trans from an '87 but it's a carb one. Need to verify before buying =P

[2ndGenGuy]

1989 Accord CV Half Shaft, Driver's side MT:

Overall Compressed Length (In): 36-7/16 Inch
Inboard Shaft Connection Style: Spline
Outboard Shaft Connection Style: Spline
Number Of Inboard Splines: 27
Number Of Outboard Splines: 26
ABS Tone Ring Included: No
Axle Nut Included: Yes
Axle Nut Hex Size (mm): 32mm
Axle Nut Thread Size: M22-1.50
Axle Nut Head Type: Flanged Hex

1987 Prelude Dual Carb Driver's Side Axle:


CV Axle Shaft New; Front; Driver Side; Manual Transmission
New Or Remanufactured: New
Overall Compressed Length (In): 36 Inch
Overall Compressed Length (mm): 916mm
Inboard Shaft Connection Style: Male
Outboard Shaft Connection Style: Conventional
Number Of Inboard Splines: 25
Number Of Outboard Splines: 24
ABS Tone Ring Included: No
Axle Nut Included: Yes
Axle Nut Hex Size (mm): 31.8mm
Axle Nut Thread Size: M22-1.50
Axle Nut Head Type: Hex


The 1.8 engines use smaller axles, so you will want to skip that.

I believe the bellhousing has the same pattern, but it's actually smaller since the Prelude has a smaller clutch or flywheel as well.

[InAccordance]

So really to make it work I would have to take accord axles and have a shop put the prelude ends on them that go into the diff.
Even then what would I do for a clutch and flywheel? Use the prelude ones?
hmm. Thanks for the information.:thumbup:

[InAccordance]

So lesson learned, make sure your carb top hats are fully screwed on...
Never even thought to check them since they were brand new but all the screws were not fully tightened. Had fuel seeping out the tops, now my carbs are dirty :hmph:

[2ndGenGuy]

So really to make it work I would have to take accord axles and have a shop put the prelude ends on them that go into the diff.
Even then what would I do for a clutch and flywheel? Use the prelude ones?
hmm. Thanks for the information.:thumbup:

Yeah something like that... Assuming the Prelude flywheel bolts onto that A20 crankshaft, which it may not...

[InAccordance]

Engine ready to be pulled. Everything is disconnected except that fuel line but that won't take 10 seconds.
9029
Header detatches by slip joint so that will stay the way it is. It'll come apart when lifting engine out.

[InAccordance]

Old Prelude short throw shifter fits, got it put together and ready to go.
Going to start tearing into the dash once this storm passes.

[Fixedit]

Good shit! Happy to see this project moving forward

[InAccordance]

Engine out finally. Trans separated, converter and flexplate off (sort of, I put the flexplate back on with two bolts so I could wedge a bolt between it and the block so the engine wont rotate when trying to get the crank pulley off)
Working on the engine stuff now, new seals all around and such and some internal seals too.
https://i.imgur.com/f3ZUR0El.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TqJsKFxl.jpg

Motoring along..

[InAccordance]

Engine work almost done, new rear main seal in, timing belt done, valve stem seals done, flywheel on and timing is spot on. Just waiting on oil pan to dry from cleaning the fuck out of it and going to paint it cause reasons..

[Donnyten]

Interesting.. really into that 5 speed swap since theyre relatively easy to rebuild and theyre lighter, as well as the EDIS. Ur cars gonna be the shit

[InAccordance]

Just wish I had a garage. Supposed to rain the next four days so wont be able to do anything 8(

[InAccordance]

Yay clear day.. progress was made..
Dash out, replaced blower motor that was bad, 5 speed pedals are in and hooked up, working on getting the old shifter out.
Who is the damn genious who put the bolts facing down and the nuts are on the underside UNDER the heat shroud.
Dropped off the knuckles to get new ball joints and hubs/bearings put in.

Swap a 5 speed they said... it's EASY they said... :rofl:

Just another gratuitous engine shot...
https://i.imgur.com/O8c4ojul.jpg
Just need to finish routing the pcv, put alt back on and she's ready to rip. Well, an oil filter too..
That +20hp red paint tho

[Dr_Snooz]

An auto just wouldn't be right for that engine. You're doing the right thing. It's a lot of work, but totally worth it.

[Donnyten]

Guess i should consider a manual swap as well then. Theres an accord at the junkyard with a manual in it..

[InAccordance]

New toy =D

https://i.imgur.com/2B0FbrYl.jpg

[gcovarrubias412]

Nice. You should just connect a small breather right on the block instead of using the pcv valve

[2ndGenGuy]

Nah the PCV system is way better to have working properly. It vents fresh air into the engine block to help get all the moisture and fuel vapors out of the crankcase and engine oil, and with that pulls that shit out into the intake to burn. If you don't want to reburn, then you should put a catch can before the intake manfiold connection.

If you just put a breather on the valve cover, you're basically just trapping all that stuff in your engine. There's nothing to help circulate in fresh air.

[InAccordance]

I'm putting in a catch can. If I ran it back into the manifold, it would only be on one runner which would throw off that one.

Progress!
Pedals, shifter in. Dash back in and steering column rehung. Just need to put the random panels back in and the seat.
https://i.imgur.com/sboY6bAl.jpg

[InAccordance]

MOAR PROGRESS!
https://i.imgur.com/YFKRknDl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VJiKkuql.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FOlY4RDl.jpg

She's in!
Not buttoned down fully yet. Had to get to work right after setting it down and throwing some nuts and bolts in the mounts.
Work all day Sunday so wont get anything done but then off for 4 days in a row... it's go time.

[Dr_Snooz]

Sweet!

[InAccordance]

Got the steering knuckles back today, new ball joints and bearings/hubs. Got axles. Sadly I had to remove the header to get the downpipe installed and tore the gasket in the process so waiting on the parts store to get one in. Once I have that, she can be fired up. Off again on Sunday and Monday so should have it done by then if all goes well.

[gcovarrubias412]

Nah the PCV system is way better to have working properly. It vents fresh air into the engine block to help get all the moisture and fuel vapors out of the crankcase and engine oil, and with that pulls that shit out into the intake to burn. If you don't want to reburn, then you should put a catch can before the intake manfiold connection.

If you just put a breather on the valve cover, you're basically just trapping all that stuff in your engine. There's nothing to help circulate in fresh air.

I meant on the back of the block, not the valve cover. But yea a catch can as well

[InAccordance]

IT'S ALIVE!!!! sort of...
After 4 hours of knuckle banging, head scratching, texting another member, and resisting the strong urge to push the car off a cliff... she has life.
Engine is strong, idling good, no funky smells and no leaks (yet).
I had everything done, even put the wheels back on, around 6pm but she wouldn't crank at all. Turns out after above mentioned activities, it's the ground from the battery that is to blame.
Haven't driven it yet cause I'm fraking tired now and am just going to sit here and have a few beers.:beer:
Freaked me out though cause it's still on stands and the wheels were spinning a bit with it in neutral. Seems that is perfectly normal after some research. It is chilly here and I did put new pads and rotors on it and the brakes aren't seated yet so there's no drag from them.
Oh, and you can tell a huge difference with the lightweight flywheel just bliping the throttle. It winds up fast and drops just as fast. Going to take some getting used to.

Taking her out tomorrow after buttoning down a few things and fixing the ground issue. SO PUMPED!:flash:

[Dr_Snooz]

Yay!!!

[InAccordance]

She moves. Drove it to work. Taking it easy on it until clutch sets in but she's going to be a ripper.
Still have some issues. Need to bypass the key interlock, signals aren't working, half the interior is still apart, just things like that.

[InAccordance]

Just for archival purposes this is the list of everything that was done recently..

A2Q5 transmission w/ roughly 188k miles. Remaining fluid drained and replaced with Royal Purple 5w-30
Unorthadox Racing lightweight flywheel
M-Pact 6 puck ceramic clutch disc
Exedy pressure plate
2g Prelude Pacesetter short throw shifter
Shift rod and torque arm
5 speed pedal cluster
Timing belt and tensioner
oil pan gasket
rear main seal
valve stem seals
Exhaust manifold gasket
Engine fully drained of oil and replaced with 10w-30 synthetic
Polyurethane'd engine mounts
Lower ball joints on both sides replaced
Wheel bearings and new hubs
Rotors and ceramic pads

[Dr_Snooz]

That's nice work there.

[InAccordance]

Probably shoudn't have but couldn't resist giving it the beans on the way home from work and holy fuck does it pull hard, especially 3rd gear. 1st and 2nd rip so fast but 3rd seems to really take off. Maybe just me, but the carbs seem like they are even louder with the manual trans lol. They are louder than my exhaust at some points. Which my exhaust is the header to straight pipe to a flowmaster 44. No converter or resonator and I can still hear the carbs over that. Fucking love it.

[InAccordance]

Started belching oil smoke at startup and after long periods of idle. Must've borked one of the stem seals when replacing them, now I have to go in and find the culprit. doh!
Coolant is clean and it only does it at those times so got to be the stem seals.

[Shane86]

Started belching oil smoke at startup and after long periods of idle. Must've borked one of the stem seals when replacing them, now I have to go in and find the culprit. doh!
Coolant is clean and it only does it at those times so got to be the stem seals.

Pistons:confused:

[InAccordance]

Nah, no smoke under throttle unless it's been idling for a bit and at startup. Classic symptoms of stem seals. I've got another set laying around so I'll go in and do it again.
Oil is clean as well, still caramel brown and doesn't smell burnt.

[Shane86]

Nah, no smoke under throttle unless it's been idling for a bit and at startup. Classic symptoms of stem seals. I've got another set laying around so I'll go in and do it again.
Oil is clean as well, still caramel brown and doesn't smell burnt.

That's good

[InAccordance]

Stem seals replaced. I did bugger one the first time, the little spring was missing on one of the exhaust valves. woops.
Went ahead and did the set just to be safe. No more smoke!

[Dr_Snooz]

How did you keep the valves from falling into the engine?

[InAccordance]

Actually a couple did, lol.. They were on cylinders set to TDC though and I have a magnet pickup tool that is the size of a pen that fits perfectly in the guides. The valves wont drop right away after taking the spring(s) and retainer off cause after 284k miles, the valve itself is worn down a bit to create a slight lip. It is really only when removing the old seal that it becomes a danger. At that point I just make sure to keep a finger against the valve to maintain some pressure to hold it against the guide.

I do have a few guides that are worn but that will have to wait until next year.

[Dr_Snooz]

You like living on the edge. LOL. I figured you would do the rope trick or something.

[InAccordance]

Thought about using some string but couldn't find anything small enough to work so tempted fate.

[InAccordance]

So funny story... got mine running almost a month ago.. Literally two days after I got my vehicle driveable, the wifes car throws a fucking rod with no warning. She has a 2006 Ford Escape that only had 111k miles and the pos threw a damn rod.
On the plus side, I put plenty of miles on mine taking her to work and back to set my clutch in. On the down side, hers cost us 3800$ to have an engine put in and some other things it needed.
So looks like some of my plans for the Accord have been pushed back a bit >.>

[Dr_Snooz]

Ouch. That sucks. Sorry to hear it. Hope you get back on track soon.

[InAccordance]

Looks like Wilwood still makes a 4 piston caliper set for the 3g. Suddenly I feel like my vehicle needs new brakes.

[Shane86]

Looks like Wilwood still makes a 4 piston caliper set for the 3g. Suddenly I feel like my vehicle needs new brakes.

Really you got a link to those

[Dr_Snooz]

https://wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitSearch?year=1989&make=Honda&model=Accord&option=SEI&axle=Front+Kit

Someone needs to call them to make sure they still offer it.

[Shane86]

$447.99 wow

[InAccordance]

Yea....lol

On another note, speedometer quit a little bit ago, finally got around to digging today. Cable broke. Yay.

[InAccordance]

SO I had this thought...
What if you were to take the header I have (OBX 4-1) which has slip joints and flip it. Cut the runners off the flange and flip them, weld it back upside down. Get a 4-1 collector with a turbo flange and have it fit to the 4 runners. You've got yourself a turbo manifold. Granted it would be super high and sit above the hood line but still...
Just thinking about things to do later on down the road. The idea of turbo'ing has popped up. Wouldn't a twin DCOE turbo be fun?
They make plenums that mount to them for it.
Just shower thoughts I guess lol

[Dr_Snooz]

Sounds awesome! You should do it.

[InAccordance]

More shower thoughts...
Ok so, say you take the stock carb intake right, cut out the dividers and basically gut it, open it up so it flows super good. I think there was someone on here who did it a long time ago, can't remember who..
Then you go get yourself some weber adapter plates, port match those to the intake you just cut out.
Then go get yourself a 4 to 2 barrel carb adapter and flip it, now you've got a mounting point for a 4 barrel carb.
Go get yourself a nice Holley or whatever brand of carb you like and you take it and have it boost prepped or you buy it already ready to go for boost.
I know a 4 barrel can handle boost when setup right, people do it all the time. My neighbor has an old Chevy stepside that is twin turbo carbed. His uses a Demon carb.
hrmmmmmm :bandit:

[Dr_Snooz]

You can only do this if you stick a roots blower on top with a giant scoop. That would be epic!!!

In all seriousness though, I'm thinking in much the same direction. The domestic aftermarket has so much awesome stuff that interchanges and works with everything else so well. And in the import scene stuff is so hard to find, doesn't tend to play well with other stuff and is a giant headache to set up. That leaves aside the increasing scarcity of replacement parts for the 3g. If I can retrofit the domestic aftermarket stuff onto my 3g, then all those problems disappear.

[gcovarrubias412]

You can only do this if you stick a roots blower on top with a giant scoop. That would be epic!!!

In all seriousness though, I'm thinking in much the same direction. The domestic aftermarket has so much awesome stuff that interchanges and works with everything else so well. And in the import scene stuff is so hard to find, doesn't tend to play well with other stuff and is a giant headache to set up. That leaves aside the increasing scarcity of replacement parts for the 3g. If I can retrofit the domestic aftermarket stuff onto my 3g, then all those problems disappear.

Well some import stuff can fit onto other imports. But the reason you can’t really use any domestic aftermarket on our imports is cause of metric/inch. And most of our stuff is 4 cyl, and their’s are v8’s. Solution? Designing adapter plates.

[InAccordance]

Old girl kept door to door with a 7th gen coupe on the way home from work. I know it's bad but he challenged me lol
Ran over a grocery bag the other day and it stuck to my exhaust pipe, now it smells like burnt plastic >.<

[InAccordance]

Speedometer fixed! I know how fast I'm going again lol

[InAccordance]

Had a funky ass noise pop up last night that sounded like a rod knocking. freaked me out but turned out to be the EGR pipe had come loose and was rattling around. Almost had a heart attack thinking it was getting ready to blow up lol
Couldn't find a plug to fit the pipe mounting bung so had taken the old pipe and cut it, crimped and welded it shut. It started to back out and was making noise hitting the motor mount bracket.

[Oldblueaccord]

Had a funky ass noise pop up last night that sounded like a rod knocking. freaked me out but turned out to be the EGR pipe had come loose and was rattling around. Almost had a heart attack thinking it was getting ready to blow up lol
Couldn't find a plug to fit the pipe mounting bung so had taken the old pipe and cut it, crimped and welded it shut. It started to back out and was making noise hitting the motor mount bracket.


I plugged the manifold with a bolt but I cant remember the thread. Never had a problem running wise after.

[InAccordance]

Yea, I was wanting to do that or a screw in plug but couldn't find anything around here. Even went to a nut and bolt store with the header and they didn't have anything to fit. So did the old quick and dirty. Welds are holding up but apparently it wants to unscrew on me. May tighten it back up and throw a tack weld or two on it.

[B0CKS]

Yea, I was wanting to do that or a screw in plug but couldn't find anything around here. Even went to a nut and bolt store with the header and they didn't have anything to fit. So did the old quick and dirty. Welds are holding up but apparently it wants to unscrew on me. May tighten it back up and throw a tack weld or two on it.

OldBlue is right! The EGR on the manifold can be plugged using a trans fill plug. They thread right in. But hey, if it works, don't fix it!

[InAccordance]

Ignition switch finally went. Had been acting up for a while now but got to the point it wouldn't connect unless you held it at a small spot. Took it apart and filed the contacts clean, put 'er back together and works like a charm.

[Fixedit]

Hey man, do you have an updated/current thread on this build?

I got a Rowland intake and a couple of DCOE 40's recently for my hatch that already has a 272 cam and Weber 38 setup.

I'd love to know more about your throttle linkage setup and catch can. Plus, didn't you end up getting an adjustable cam gear? That Megajolt thread is yours isn't it, I'll go read up over there. I'm more apprehensive about ignition mods but I guess I gotta leave my comfort zone sometimes.