Aloha everyone - TW sensor with weber needed?

[jfoxx808]

Aloha again everyone. fairly new to the site and gonna be on here a lot more. kinda restoring an 89 accord lx with 130k on it and almost done. just a little hard getting help all the way out here in hawaii but my question though. do you need the tw sensor on the engine block with a weber? I'm guessing not?

a little of what i did though was rebuilt top and bottom of A20A1 engine. cleaned it up slapped a 32/36 weber on it. also relocated fan thermo-switch from bottom of radiator to thermostat housing where the the thermowax switching valve for the stock carb was. putting in auto meter water temp gauge because this is gonna be my nice little daily driver and if possible would like to throw the new temp gauge sending unit where the tw sensor is on the block. what do you all think. again mahalo for the help

[Tdurr]

Welcome to the page man! These little cars will last forever if you show them some love and it sound like your on the right path. I'm not sure exactly if you need a TW switch on the carbed motor as im a FI guy myself, but i would assume so as the TW is supposed to be what shows you temps on the cluster(if i'm not mistaken. I could be very wrong)

I would just try and tap a new location on the t-stat housing for the temp gauge sending unit. Shouldn't be a hard thing to do, and toss a fresh t-stat in at the same time to make sure its all good. We love pics so don't be afraid to show off your ride!

[MessyHonda]

this section might help

https://www.3geez.com/forum/carburetor-tech/

[noidea24]

The sensor located at the bottom of the radiator is the fan switch, a simple on/off based on threshold type deal.

The sensor for your temp gauge in the cluster is actually a little nipple that points straight to the firewall off the back of the intake manifold. Its a resistive ground type deal.

I personally don't like the factory temp gauge(on any Honda really) because the operating range is too wide. Anywhere from 170ish to 220ish will keep the stock temp gauge in the middle. That's a problem for me because 200-210 is what I consider "getting hot" and I need to know when this is happening.

I bypassed the coolant passage that runs through the intake manifold, so that killed any attempt of getting my stock one to work, but I installed a aftermarket mechanical gauge at my Thermostat. (Which I recommend to anybody). I just went and got a gauge from O'Reillys, pulled out one of the thermo-valves, found the right adapter and bolted it right in.