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Donnyten
05-23-2018, 02:50 AM
I have an 88 accord Lxii. It was given to me for $350 but Ive yet to finish the other half of payment. It has 278000 miles on it and a pretty bad oil leak which appears to be coming from that oil rubber hose on the lower back of engine. It's running off and dropping on to the exhaust pipe causing intermittent smoke. The AC and radio does not work.It also has an issue where it vibrates violently when started until it warms up. The speedometer is also wonky as well. Aside from outside rust on the exterior car is otherwise robust. However all vacuum lines look old, some components in the Bay rusted, Unsure of when the timing belt was changed, Or any of the belts for that matter, Not even really sure if the oil leak is coming from that hose but can see dripping from the lower end of part. The icing on the cake would be if the rear main seal was leaking as well.

I am pretty handy when it comes to repairs but I'm not sure if this car Is worth the hassle but a little torn because otherwise It drives fine.

Someone was selling a 2004 Chrysler vehicle for 1500 with 170000 miles that currently has a check engine light. I've yet to see what the code is but im debating on if I should just get this vehicle and work on it as opposed to maintaining a 20 plus year old car.

I've been told that nothing is wrong with the Chrysler as it's coming from My brother's friend And was driven by his stepmother who's getting a new car soon. Just want your thoughts on this as my current state of employment is not guaranteed beyond the end of June as a contractor With no savings and want the best opinion

gcovarrubias412
05-23-2018, 07:52 AM
I have an 88 accord Lxii. It was given to me for $350 but Ive yet to finish the other half of payment. It has 278000 miles on it and a pretty bad oil leak which appears to be coming from that oil rubber hose on the lower back of engine. It's running off and dropping on to the exhaust pipe causing intermittent smoke. The AC and radio does not work.It also has an issue where it vibrates violently when started until it warms up. The speedometer is also wonky as well. Aside from outside rust on the exterior car is otherwise robust. However all vacuum lines look old, some components in the Bay rusted, Unsure of when the timing belt was changed, Or any of the belts for that matter, Not even really sure if the oil leak is coming from that hose but can see dripping from the lower end of part. The icing on the cake would be if the rear main seal was leaking as well.

I am pretty handy when it comes to repairs but I'm not sure if this car Is worth the hassle but a little torn because otherwise It drives fine.

Someone was selling a 2004 Chrysler vehicle for 1500 with 170000 miles that currently has a check engine light. I've yet to see what the code is but im debating on if I should just get this vehicle and work on it as opposed to maintaining a 20 plus year old car.

I've been told that nothing is wrong with the Chrysler as it's coming from My brother's friend And was driven by his stepmother who's getting a new car soon. Just want your thoughts on this as my current state of employment is not guaranteed beyond the end of June as a contractor With no savings and want the best opinion

Well, you could either spend 1500 on the chrysler, plus whatever repairs/maintenance, registration, it needs. So lets say 1800 total MINIMUM.

Or, you could spend that money on all the repairs you need to do on your Accord. And still be left with a bunch of cash for upgrades if you want to.

I’d stay with the accord, but if you dont have time and really dont want to go through the hassle, then go for the chrysler i suppose. But you’ll have trouble selling the accord in its current condition. You wont even get your 350 back.

I’d rebuild the engine and port the head a bit. Replace alternator, starter, radiator, rebuild fuel system, etc. Delete A/C and all the lines that come with it, and remove the radio and speakers and just buy a small, loud bluetooth speaker. HA!

And if you do all the basics, it’ll last you another 300k miles with basic maintenance. It’ll be a breeze to maintain since you pretty much resurrected it and started off fresh.

Donnyten
05-23-2018, 12:14 PM
Thanks. I actually started tearing into the car today. Ive never owned a car this old before with all the spaghetti mess( vacuum lines) one thing im not sure ill be able to do is re build the engine( ive done a revuild before but reaaaally dont feel like going through the trouble again) at most inwas gonna getta gasket set and redo all gaskets..if i did rebuild, id feel obligated to get a newer transmission as well.. hmm

gcovarrubias412
05-23-2018, 12:19 PM
Thanks. I actually started tearing into the car today. Ive never owned a car this old before with all the spaghetti mess( vacuum lines) one thing im not sure ill be able to do is re build the engine( ive done a revuild before but reaaaally dont feel like going through the trouble again) at most inwas gonna getta gasket set and redo all gaskets..if i did rebuild, id feel obligated to get a newer transmission as well.. hmm

Do a vacuum delete! You wont pass smog, but theres a few ways around that...

And I understand what you mean. Why don’t you get it done by professional engine builders? Find a reputable shop and they should be able to crank out your a20 in no time. And yea, i would be the same way. Your tranny is auto or manual?

Donnyten
05-23-2018, 01:24 PM
I actually posted in someones vacuum delete thread. Could it work for fuel injected 88 accord? Or only carb?how would i get around to passing smog? I would get someone else to rebuild engine if i could afford it.. auto trans

gcovarrubias412
05-23-2018, 07:46 PM
I actually posted in someones vacuum delete thread. Could it work for fuel injected 88 accord? Or only carb?how would i get around to passing smog? I would get someone else to rebuild engine if i could afford it.. auto trans

Probably only carb. Theres ways to cheat, but you gotta pay to play lol. Yea, i hear ya. That stuff is pricey.

Donnyten
05-24-2018, 12:19 AM
https://www.3geez.com/forum/efi-tech/67749-vaccum-box.html

Apparently it can also be dons on efi model?

Honda#1
05-25-2018, 06:42 PM
Keep it and work on it. Any car you buy either already has issues that are obvious, has undisclosed issues or will develop issues and you will have to spend money on just buying the car plus fixing whatever pops up. And with technology on such car, it is hard to fix it in the backyard. And you will have to get used to it running and every sound it makes you will have to figure if it is normal or if it is telling you something needs fixing. With the Accord, you already know how it rolls. Again, nobody would give you $350. And then they would get it restored and do a swap/conversion if you do sell it for less.

Dr_Snooz
05-25-2018, 08:15 PM
That hose in the rear may cost you $25? If it's a worst case rear main, the seal is maybe $10 and the labor to drop the trans, which is free. Maybe add another $150 if you decide to splurge on a trans jack that you can use again. You can buy another speedo cable for $50, or just ignore it like the rest of us do.

What is that check engine light going to cost you?

Donnyten
05-28-2018, 10:19 AM
Thanks peoples. I've decided to keep it and work on it

Dr_Snooz
05-28-2018, 06:20 PM
Cool! These cars have a way of growing on you.

gcovarrubias412
05-28-2018, 06:49 PM
Thanks peoples. I've decided to keep it and work on it

Awesome! Glad you could work things out