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Donnyten
05-29-2018, 12:25 PM
Currently have the block in the engine with the cylinder head off. Do not have proper resources to lift engine out Nor do I have resources to transport a lift if I were to rent one. As tedious as it may be I'm willing to do this with the block in the car. A piston removal- I'm sure all that needs to be done is dropping the oil Pan, Removing the bottom bearings and pushing up on the piston. I've only re built one engine the proper way Out of car on a Ford escort. And if im not mistaking i pressed the other thrust? bearings into the connecting rod for the pistons. Would i be missing anything else? I have gaskets for everything.. i plan to also redo all piston rings while im at it...

Questions.. how exactly do i know what size rings i will need as well as bearings? How do i determine the condition of a piston? As long as the crank journals arent scored, no Knicks or deep scratches in cylinder bores.. if no cross hatch ill rehone..no warpage.. should be good im assuming. A machine shop took all measurements last time.. gave me all the parts

Also... the tube that connects to the intake manifold broke up when removing the head.. it connects to what i assume some blackbox crankcase ventilation chit? Its on the rear of block.Is it even needed? Where can i order one? Is the tube plastic or was it just so old the rubber got hard?

Dr_Snooz
05-29-2018, 06:14 PM
You can pull an engine with a come-along and a sturdy garage rafter, or even a tree branch. I did my first engine that way.

You should be able to do everything you need to do with the block in the car, though it might require some creativity. And it will be tedious, like you say. If memory serves, the trans bell housing or flywheel or somesuch down there obscures the oil pan bolts on that side so you'll need to get a long extension and a swivel socket to pull it. You might also have to remove some crossmembers, mounts and the like. Worst case, you'll have to drop the trans, but I would be surprised if it came to that.

If you can, try to keep that hose and the black box. It is your PCV system, which keeps your oil cleaner, and Honda put a really good one on this engine. I think the hose is some obscure size that is hard to find now, though. If you can't, guys run catch cans instead. You can make one pretty easily if you search around the site.

Have fun and let us know how it goes.

Donnyten
05-30-2018, 09:12 AM
Thank you. Do you know how to determine the condition of a piston? Bearings would be a little obvious. And also at ony need to consider Oversized pistons if the cylinders need it boring right? Otherwise do i stick with standard size bearings and pistons?

Dr_Snooz
05-30-2018, 08:39 PM
When I do a rebuild, I take the long block to a machine shop and make them handle it. I build the block, but they prep it, tank it, do the head entirely, and provide me all the parts I need. If I were you, I'd gather up my parts and take them down to a good local machine shop and ask them to sell you what you need for it.

Donnyten
05-31-2018, 04:39 AM
i wouldnt be able to take the block since im doing an in car *refurbish*. if i had a bigger budget i would consider that..

Oldblueaccord
06-01-2018, 12:14 PM
yeah oversized pistons you would buy them and then the machinist would bore and hone the block to there size.

Usually the piston skirts will be scruffed up how much is ok is up to you. There is a backyard rebuild thread on here some place. A decent hone job would be needed to help seat the new rings.

I really think stripped down you could lift the block out your self or easy with two people not that an in cab is a bad idea on a budget.

Donnyten
06-02-2018, 03:44 PM
thank you.. However I've run into a big snag.. RUSTED EXHAUST PIPE ROUNDED OFF BOLTS!

cant remove the exhaust pipe out the way so i can get the oil pan off! tried using pb blaster, and a torch! no worky! i've essentially rounded off all 3 nuts needed to dislodge the pipe so it can drop down freely. is my only option now to completely cut the pipe in half? i literally spent all day trying to get these 3 nuts off. Tried using a standard hand ratchet, and a cordless impact wrench. even tried a 13mm bolt extractor socket which further rounded off the bolt smh.

Dr_Snooz
06-02-2018, 07:24 PM
Can you remove it from the manifold, then drop the entire exhaust system? Rock Auto has a lot of exhaust pipe for cheap, so that could be an option too.

Oldblueaccord
06-02-2018, 10:23 PM
4 inch Angle grinder just blast them off or pull the whole thing down like snooze says.

Donnyten
06-03-2018, 08:12 AM
Thank you. Was able to just lift pipe off hanger. Question..

Can the bottom half off bearing cap come off or do i need to hammer the piston bolts up and out? Tried using the rubber mallet but its on there pretty tight and wont budge.

EDIT: now that i think of it, if i can remember that last time i rebuilt an engine, the bottom bearing cap is should just come off, this thing is pretty stuck on there..

Donnyten
06-03-2018, 10:35 AM
ahh, i see... thread nut til barely on and tap nut wit wood something or socket with hammer, and boom.. came off fairly easy.. bearings show coppersssss

Dr_Snooz
06-03-2018, 10:48 AM
4 inch Angle grinder just blast them off or pull the whole thing down like snooze says.

The proper way is to wait until it's about 105 deg. out. Then use a dull hacksaw in full sunlight to try to saw through the exhaust pipe by hand. Then go beg Carl's Jr. for a cup of water because you're so dehydrated. If it takes less than 4 hours, you're doing it wrong. Best results achieved in the junkyard where the radiant heat reflecting off all the cars magnifies the ambient temperature by a couple dozen degrees.




....been there, done that.

firefighterwhite89
06-04-2018, 07:44 PM
You can pull an engine with a come-along and a sturdy garage rafter, or even a tree branch. I did my first engine that way.

You should be able to do everything you need to do with the block in the car, though it might require some creativity. And it will be tedious, like you say. If memory serves, the trans bell housing or flywheel or somesuch down there obscures the oil pan bolts on that side so you'll need to get a long extension and a swivel socket to pull it. You might also have to remove some crossmembers, mounts and the like. Worst case, you'll have to drop the trans, but I would be surprised if it came to that.

If you can, try to keep that hose and the black box. It is your PCV system, which keeps your oil cleaner, and Honda put a really good one on this engine. I think the hose is some obscure size that is hard to find now, though. If you can't, guys run catch cans instead. You can make one pretty easily if you search around the site.

Have fun and let us know how it goes.

DO NOT FUCK UP THE PCV HOSE THAT RUNS OFF THE BLOCK. YOU CANNOT BUY IT ANYWHERE, IT GOES FROM (IIRC 1 1/8", RATHER 28MM DOWN TO 1/2" OR 12MM). IT'S A LESS THAN 6 INCH HOSE FROM HELL.
I had to go between tractors supple and lowes to fashion a hose/adapter to make a new one. Good news is the new one should last a long looooooooooooooooooooooooong time. Never do i ever want to have to do that again. Still use a catch can inline though. catches all the nasty. :)

Donnyten
06-05-2018, 03:09 AM
That hose snapped man, when i was trying to remove the head with the intake still attached. so i can just make a catch can then?

firefighterwhite89
06-05-2018, 06:14 PM
That hose snapped man, when i was trying to remove the head with the intake still attached. so i can just make a catch can then?

Time to get crafty :rockon:. Measure both nipples with a micrometer for reference. I used a (Can't remember the exact sizes so i'm just throwing sizes out there) a short 4" section of hose, used a 1 1/8" to 1/2" barb similar to this https://goo.gl/images/ZgW8Hk, ran a 1/2" hose to the catch can, then intake. You still use your PCV valve. Good luck finding the right barb. Took me forever to find one. May be easier to find a leprechaun riding a unicorn. Best of luck. :cheers:


I used band clamps to help hold it together. Never do i ever want to have to manipulate my hands like that again. May as well replace the hose from the oil pan to the box too. It's maybe 6" long and around an inch in diameter or so.

Donnyten
06-05-2018, 06:38 PM
lawd. please help me out with the exact size hoses if you can remember..

firefighterwhite89
06-06-2018, 02:26 AM
lawd. please help me out with the exact size hoses if you can remember..

It'll be later but i'll see what i can do with my mic if i can get to it.

Donnyten
06-10-2018, 04:51 AM
Is there anyway to clean the inside of the box? It looks pretty filthy

Dr_Snooz
06-10-2018, 08:13 PM
Well, you can take it down to the machine shop and have it hot tanked.....

:dunno:

Donnyten
06-11-2018, 03:44 AM
well i meant the black breather box. its filthy and has sludge in it. As far as the block i've been thinking about putting vinegar in it and letting it sit, repeat the procedure then neutralize the vinegar. i'm not sure if i really need to or if the vinegar will do the block harm but vinegar sure did do a great job of getting a lot of rust off of the coolant inlet pipe

Dr_Snooz
06-12-2018, 08:19 PM
I'd go with a solvent that dissolves oil myself. Gasoline would be great, but really stinky.

Donnyten
06-14-2018, 03:35 AM
not bad, tried it.

Dr_Snooz
06-14-2018, 07:31 PM
That's how I used to clean all my bike parts when I was a kid. It worked great, but my liver doesn't work great now.