Aftermarket oil pressure sensor+light blinking

[Donnyten]

Got around to running the car today. It's taken me 2 months working on it on and off in between work schedule and sourcing parts. I seem to have a problem with oil pressure. I did manage to replace the main And rod bearings As the originals where in Badd order. The crankshaft is in good condition. Pick up filter in the Pan is not clogged. Also replaced the oil pump and the oil pressure Sending unit. I am using 10W40.

Test drove it for 40 minutes. Noticed the oil light was blinking to steady and blinking on and off when i got home. With the after market sending unit the wire doesn't even securely connect all the way. Never had an oil pressure problem prior to my rebuild. Searched around here and ordered the proper male to female fitting for pressure gauge usage so I can check what's going On. Should arrive in a few days. I also seem to have a horrible rough start. I need to rent a timing light as well but want to get the pressure problem in order

Any thoughts as to what could be going on?

[InAccordance]

I'd wait to get a gauge hooked up to rule out an electrical gremlin.

[Shane86]

I use 10w30 oil. Its probably a bad connection

[Dr_Snooz]

I definitely would not drive it until you verify the problem.

[Donnyten]

Yes I'm not driving it until I can get this sorted out. I have a question. Can anyone source a proper sending unit? seems like the threads are positioned differently on after market units that i've tried, so the wire connector doesnt fit all the way, its very loose. if this aint possible i'm just going to buy a pressure gauge or something and permanently leave that shit connected to the filter housing. There may also be something wrong with the relief valve but when I had it out it was not bound at all, unless i put it back in wrong or something or over tightened the hex screw. I find it hard to beleive i'm having pressure problems with new main and rod standard bearings, a new pump, sending unit, and no oil leaks, unless the top end is fucked up.

About this ROUGH START LOW IDLE CONDITION. I had this same exact issue BEFORE the rebuild. I am suspecting a failing egr valve, but i'm not getting a check engine light. What I suspect is on a cold start up the egr valve is partly open immediately allowing exhaust gases to enter into the engine, followed by subsequent near stalling and slight rpm fluctuations until the engine is warmed up. the idle is still not where i'd like it to be, seems to be hovering in the 400-550s.

How can I test the egr valve without taking it out?

this thing has a lift sensor right? i dont remember how many wires this sensor has, but if i can pump it with some vacuum, i can put a multimeter to the signal wire and see what the min and max values are, and compare to factory defaults, which are? key on, engine off of course.
I had the egr valve out before and didnt see any carbon build up, but there was another user here whos egr valve had seating and lift issues.

I don't think i have a vacuum leak, but there is strong suction noise coming from the throttle body that i've never noticed on any other car i've owned. i hear its normal

My fast idle valve screw backed out over the years so I reseated it to no change. Unless i'm have IACV issues. I also seem to have an intermittent misfire but I'm not sure if thats due to incorrect ignition timing or not.It may be possible that the idle was prematurely adjusted.. ( can idle even be adjusted on EFIs? i do see a hex screw thingy on the side of the IACV)

Fuel pressure is another thought.

Edit: Just called Honda for an oem Oil pressure switch/sending unit... 52 bucks? lol .. Ok, i'll pass and just put a gauge on this thing or something

[InAccordance]

If the fast idle screw doesn't change the idle, you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere

[Donnyten]

Do you hear a STRONG SUCTION noise coming from the throttle body in your accord? I know its manifold vacuum but mine is very loud. I replaced all vacuum hoses as well, i had this sane idle issue before hand but ill either smoke the intake or spray around the engine

[InAccordance]

Well I dont have a thottle body (if you're referring to me) but the old Prelude was FI and yea if I took the intake tube off, the throttle body was fairly loud.
Try this: Get it running, take the top of the idle air control valve off (the plate with two screws), take a quarter and turn the thingy inside it. It's a black piece that screws into the body of the IACV. Turning it up should increase idle speed I think, or may be the other way around. Either way, turning that will affect idle speed. If THAT doesnt affect your idle in any way then you have a leak somewhere.

[Donnyten]

Are you referring to the fast idle valve? It's currently bottomed out. I recently readjusted it As I hear that's the default position and over the years it can back out

[InAccordance]

From my experience with it, shouldn't be fully bottomed out. I'd turn it back up a bit at a time to get your idle back up. That is true that over time it can shift, just have to readjust when necessary.

[Donnyten]

received the fitting today/ however it doesn't seem like i would have enough room to fit a pressure gauge tester on top of the adapter, is that how its usually done? I'm thinking about permanently just using some copper line and running a gauge somewhere under the engine bay.. however i havent done this before and dont know how.. which kit or supplies do i need?

[Donnyten]

oil pressure at idle is 17 psi steady on a warmed up engine
oil pressure increases respective to higher rpm let it run for a good 15 minutes.
Noticed the oil light was not on at all unplugged ( i heard its supposed to be on if disconnected?)

fans did not come on and temp gauge was 3/4ths there. need to troubleshoot that. one fan came on when the car shut off.

[Oldblueaccord]

oil pressure at idle is 17 psi steady on a warmed up engine
oil pressure increases respective to higher rpm let it run for a good 15 minutes.
Noticed the oil light was not on at all unplugged ( i heard its supposed to be on if disconnected?)

fans did not come on and temp gauge was 3/4ths there. need to troubleshoot that. one fan came on when the car shut off.


That pressure isnt bad,recheck it at 3000 rpms its supposed to be 55 I think.

[Dr_Snooz]

The idle adjustment screw is a big brass slotted affair on the throttle body next to where the plastic air pipe connects.

[Donnyten]

Cool thanks.

In effort to solve this radiator fan issue I've been looking around on this site. Finally got a good description of the sensors in the thermostat housing. So if I'm not mistaken the black sensor that screws in is the engine temperature sensor whereas the green sensor is a thermal switch correct? So at a certain temperature this switch is supposed to close and send voltage to the fans correct?I take it this is a normally open switch whose contacts closes at a certain temperature.

I put the green thermo switch in a pot of boiling water and put it on high for 10 minutes and tried to measure continuity between the 2 contacts but I am getting nothing. Also, I get no readings at any of the resistance settings on my multimeter except for 20M. The actual engine coolant sensor seems to be within range.

What's weird is that the car knows the temperature is up there when I turn it off the fan comes on for about 5 to 15 minutes.

Ive burped the system thoroughly, and i know they works (the fans) Because at 1 point I did a thorough engine flush With water and cascade ( old trick that works well) , And the fans would come on a little before the gauge was halfway.

I replaced my thermostat as the old one Didn't seem to protrude as much as the original that I initially put in Maybe due to the flush. Also the little hole orientation was at the bottom. On the new 1 I made sure it's at the top.

A little confused about this fan switch issue right now.