jjsamc
05-14-2020, 01:03 PM
Just wanted to post the outline I wrote while replacing the timing belt. This also includes changing out the water pump, crank and cam oil seals, the three oil pump gaskets, and the timing belt tensioner. For a few days before I started, I studied the instructions in Haynes manual, the Honda shop manual, and the free service guide on the AutoZone website. And of course, found some good info on this forum. I worked real slow and careful and I recommend a lot of patience, the right tools, documentation, and good mechanical aptitude. I also used a lot of rags to clean things up.
I noticed the old timing belt was very loose which probably explains why my timing used to bounce around whenever I tried to set it. Now it stays nice and steady. And eliminated leaks at oil pump, crankshaft seal, and leaking water pump.
This is on a 1986 Accord LXi with auto transmission and 155K miles. I do not claim this is the best and only method to do this job, but it worked for me:
•Jack up front of car until wheels are off the ground. Use jack stands to support car securely.
•Remove front left wheel. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
•Remove spark plugs (makes it easier to turn the crank manually).
•Remove valve cover (three 10mm nuts, hose, and ground wire).
•Remove upper timing belt cover (two 10mm bolts).
•Use 17mm socket on crank pulley bolt and turn CCW until you can see the pointer pointing to the “T” through the inspection hole located a few inches below the distributor and near the exhaust manifold.
•The word “UP” on the cam sprocket should point up and the two tiny timing marks on the cam sprocket teeth should align with the engine surface where the valve cover sits.
•Loosen water pump pulley bolts slightly then loosen alternator belt tension. Loosen AC compressor belt tension. Loosen power steering pump belt tension. Remove all three belts.
•Remove water pump pulley (three 10mm bolts. Stick a wrench of some kind in the pulley holes to hold it while removing bolts).
•Remove crank pulley bolt (Had to use a ¾ inch impact gun rated at 1000 ft. lbs. to get this bolt off). Wiggle crank pulley off (don’t lose the little key that goes on the crank shaft)
•Remove lower timing belt cover (four 10mm bolts)
•Remove outer timing belt guide washer at crank (pay attention which side it faces. Concave out)
•Re-check timing marks and adjust if needed (I used channel lock pliers with jaws wrapped in electrical tape to protect the crank shaft while setting the timing marks.
•Remove water pump
•Loosen the long 12mm timing belt tensioner bolt and push the spring-loaded tensioner wheel to the right and tighten the bolt to hold the wheel in place. This loosens the timing belt.
•Slip off the timing belt (it won’t come all the way out until motor mount is removed later).
•Remove oil pump.
•Remove the long timing belt tensioner bolt, tensioner wheel, and spring.
•Pry out the crank oil seal and install a new one (It was a tight fit so I left the new seal in the fridge overnight. I used a roll of electrical tape against the seal and a pipe to tap in the seal straight)
•Disconnect and move the cruise control unit out of the way.
•Remove Camshaft sprocket (12mm bolt. Don’t lose the little key)
•Remove the camshaft oil seal and install a new one.
•Install camshaft sprocket and key. Tighten bolt to 38Nm
•Pull apart the oil pump (Two Philips screws. I used a good fitting screwdriver bit on a ratchet in order to get a good bite and not strip the screw heads) Replace inner O-ring and pack Vaseline inside the pump mechanism, and assemble pump halves back together (use blue Loctite and tighten to 7Nm)
•Install outer O-ring gasket on oil pump.
•Install center oil pump gasket using thin layer of sealant on the gasket groove of the pump so the gasket does not fall out.
•Install oil pump back on the engine (one nut and three bolts 10mm. Tighten to 12Nm)
•On the new water pump, use a thin layer of sealant on the pump gasket surface and install the gasket. Attach water pump to engine (three 10mm bolts and one 12mm nut. Tighten to 12Nm)
•Install a new timing belt tensioner wheel and push against the spring tension and tighten down the long tensioner bolt to hold the wheel out of the way.
•Place a jack under the oil pan using a block of wood to support the engine.
•Remove the motor mount (two bolts and a long bolt with nut) and remove the old timing belt completely.
•Double check the engine timing pointer is on the “T” and the marks on the cam pulley align with engine valve cover surface.
•Slip on the new timing belt (I started at the crank and slipped it over the camshaft pulley teeth last. It will be very snug and need strong fingers to push it on). Check that all the timing marks are still good!
•Loosen timing belt tensioner bolt and allow wheel to go against the timing belt.
•Turn crank shaft CCW so cam sprocket moves about 3 teeth. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 43Nm.
•Put the motor mount back on. Remove jack from under the oil pan.
•Install the outer timing belt guide washer (concave side out) and the lower timing belt cover.
•Install crank pulley, key, and bolt (Torque to 115Nm but I just hit it a few times with big impact gun so I hope that is tight enough)
•Turn crank pulley bolt CCW 3 full turns and check engine timing pointer and cam timing marks again.
•Install bracket the attaches between water pump and alternator bracket (not sure at what point I took this off)
•Install pulley on the water pump.
•Install alternator/water pump belt and adjust tension. Install AC belt and adjust tension. Install power steering pump belt and adjust tension.
•Install upper timing cover.
•Install valve cover and its nuts, hose, bracket, ground wire.
•Install spark plugs. Connect the battery.
•Turn the engine on and adjust timing with a timing light by rotating the distributor if needed.
I noticed the old timing belt was very loose which probably explains why my timing used to bounce around whenever I tried to set it. Now it stays nice and steady. And eliminated leaks at oil pump, crankshaft seal, and leaking water pump.
This is on a 1986 Accord LXi with auto transmission and 155K miles. I do not claim this is the best and only method to do this job, but it worked for me:
•Jack up front of car until wheels are off the ground. Use jack stands to support car securely.
•Remove front left wheel. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
•Remove spark plugs (makes it easier to turn the crank manually).
•Remove valve cover (three 10mm nuts, hose, and ground wire).
•Remove upper timing belt cover (two 10mm bolts).
•Use 17mm socket on crank pulley bolt and turn CCW until you can see the pointer pointing to the “T” through the inspection hole located a few inches below the distributor and near the exhaust manifold.
•The word “UP” on the cam sprocket should point up and the two tiny timing marks on the cam sprocket teeth should align with the engine surface where the valve cover sits.
•Loosen water pump pulley bolts slightly then loosen alternator belt tension. Loosen AC compressor belt tension. Loosen power steering pump belt tension. Remove all three belts.
•Remove water pump pulley (three 10mm bolts. Stick a wrench of some kind in the pulley holes to hold it while removing bolts).
•Remove crank pulley bolt (Had to use a ¾ inch impact gun rated at 1000 ft. lbs. to get this bolt off). Wiggle crank pulley off (don’t lose the little key that goes on the crank shaft)
•Remove lower timing belt cover (four 10mm bolts)
•Remove outer timing belt guide washer at crank (pay attention which side it faces. Concave out)
•Re-check timing marks and adjust if needed (I used channel lock pliers with jaws wrapped in electrical tape to protect the crank shaft while setting the timing marks.
•Remove water pump
•Loosen the long 12mm timing belt tensioner bolt and push the spring-loaded tensioner wheel to the right and tighten the bolt to hold the wheel in place. This loosens the timing belt.
•Slip off the timing belt (it won’t come all the way out until motor mount is removed later).
•Remove oil pump.
•Remove the long timing belt tensioner bolt, tensioner wheel, and spring.
•Pry out the crank oil seal and install a new one (It was a tight fit so I left the new seal in the fridge overnight. I used a roll of electrical tape against the seal and a pipe to tap in the seal straight)
•Disconnect and move the cruise control unit out of the way.
•Remove Camshaft sprocket (12mm bolt. Don’t lose the little key)
•Remove the camshaft oil seal and install a new one.
•Install camshaft sprocket and key. Tighten bolt to 38Nm
•Pull apart the oil pump (Two Philips screws. I used a good fitting screwdriver bit on a ratchet in order to get a good bite and not strip the screw heads) Replace inner O-ring and pack Vaseline inside the pump mechanism, and assemble pump halves back together (use blue Loctite and tighten to 7Nm)
•Install outer O-ring gasket on oil pump.
•Install center oil pump gasket using thin layer of sealant on the gasket groove of the pump so the gasket does not fall out.
•Install oil pump back on the engine (one nut and three bolts 10mm. Tighten to 12Nm)
•On the new water pump, use a thin layer of sealant on the pump gasket surface and install the gasket. Attach water pump to engine (three 10mm bolts and one 12mm nut. Tighten to 12Nm)
•Install a new timing belt tensioner wheel and push against the spring tension and tighten down the long tensioner bolt to hold the wheel out of the way.
•Place a jack under the oil pan using a block of wood to support the engine.
•Remove the motor mount (two bolts and a long bolt with nut) and remove the old timing belt completely.
•Double check the engine timing pointer is on the “T” and the marks on the cam pulley align with engine valve cover surface.
•Slip on the new timing belt (I started at the crank and slipped it over the camshaft pulley teeth last. It will be very snug and need strong fingers to push it on). Check that all the timing marks are still good!
•Loosen timing belt tensioner bolt and allow wheel to go against the timing belt.
•Turn crank shaft CCW so cam sprocket moves about 3 teeth. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 43Nm.
•Put the motor mount back on. Remove jack from under the oil pan.
•Install the outer timing belt guide washer (concave side out) and the lower timing belt cover.
•Install crank pulley, key, and bolt (Torque to 115Nm but I just hit it a few times with big impact gun so I hope that is tight enough)
•Turn crank pulley bolt CCW 3 full turns and check engine timing pointer and cam timing marks again.
•Install bracket the attaches between water pump and alternator bracket (not sure at what point I took this off)
•Install pulley on the water pump.
•Install alternator/water pump belt and adjust tension. Install AC belt and adjust tension. Install power steering pump belt and adjust tension.
•Install upper timing cover.
•Install valve cover and its nuts, hose, bracket, ground wire.
•Install spark plugs. Connect the battery.
•Turn the engine on and adjust timing with a timing light by rotating the distributor if needed.