ShiRen
06-04-2021, 05:00 AM
The stock carbs on our cars are really not that complicated, but they have their host of issues. The carb needs to be free of issues before you start modifying a carbed Accord, if you don't live in California and you don't plan on Weber swapping, then you might look into a vacuum delete afterwards Full vacuum delete pictures (https://www.3geez.com/forum/carburetor-tech/142706-full-vacuum-delete-pictures.html)
Things you will need:
12mm wrench
Phillips screwdriver
Needle nose vise grips and/or a grinder with a cutoff wheel if you strip out a phillips screw
Gasket paper
5/16? fuel hose and inline filter
3/16 vacuum hose
Vacuum gauge if you plan on tuning it
Preferably a new fuel filter
I believe the kit you will need this kit (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/hygrade/fuel---emissions/carburetors---parts/carburetor-kit/d5bc70949f67/standard-ignition-hygrade-keihin-2bbl-carburetor-repair-kit/std3/1594/v/a/5970/automotive-car-1987-honda-accord?q=carburetor+kit&pos=1) Standard 1594 It looks like it has the accelerator pump diaphragm, top gasket, small orings, and hopefully some fit the needle and seat screw, if not, one of these might, there are plenty to mess up with (https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings/for-use-with~fuels/chemical-resistant-low-temperature-fluorosilicone-o-rings-for-tube-fittings-with-straight-thread-connection/od~0-558/od~0-624/) I have never gotten the right kit from walker, the best I got was the accel pump diaphragm from one.
Take your carb off, strip it down, spray the thick grime off of it, organize your parts and give the base and top to someone with an ultrasonic cleaner, if not you better have a lot of brake cleaner on hand, and hope nothing is gummed internally. Simply reassemble with your kit once that is done. Make sure the needle and seat orings get replaced and do not break them! You will probably need to take the cover off the screw in the back and adjust that later once its back on the car. You will need to make a new base gasket with the gasket paper, you can use a tape transfer method or press the carb down on the paper to leave an indent. Replace the fuel line, preferably all the way back to the firewall if you can, replace the fuel filters. Replace the vacuum lines you are leaving, or at least the important ones such as to the distributor vacuum advance and the power valve (right of angled port on the back of the carb). Adjust the throttle cable until it has no play and then back it off until it no longer causes a high idle after pressing it, you will know its too tight if you can pull on it and the rpms drop
Your carb really shouldn't need replacing, if you do this it will work fine in most cases. Continue to tuning, the section of the manual starts on pg108 Dropbox - 1989 Accord Service Manual.pdf (https://www.dropbox.com/s/e3qwtw8lvptc4t1/1989%20Accord%20Service%20Manual.pdf?dl=0), also the vacuum delete thread may help you if you need to adjust the accelerator pump. To adjust the screw on the back, get the car up to temp, unscrew the screw until the idle stops rising, STOP, screw it back in until the idle drops, and STOP. DO NOT FULLY UNSCREW IT. Check your float level, turn the float screw until the fuel is roughly in the middle or upper half of the sight glass, look down the rear barrel and make sure no fuel is leaking from the accel pump jet, it is a pinhole pointing diagonally down into the throat on the top back side, its easy to see it if you rev it slightly with your hand, lower float if its leaking.
Things you will need:
12mm wrench
Phillips screwdriver
Needle nose vise grips and/or a grinder with a cutoff wheel if you strip out a phillips screw
Gasket paper
5/16? fuel hose and inline filter
3/16 vacuum hose
Vacuum gauge if you plan on tuning it
Preferably a new fuel filter
I believe the kit you will need this kit (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/hygrade/fuel---emissions/carburetors---parts/carburetor-kit/d5bc70949f67/standard-ignition-hygrade-keihin-2bbl-carburetor-repair-kit/std3/1594/v/a/5970/automotive-car-1987-honda-accord?q=carburetor+kit&pos=1) Standard 1594 It looks like it has the accelerator pump diaphragm, top gasket, small orings, and hopefully some fit the needle and seat screw, if not, one of these might, there are plenty to mess up with (https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings/for-use-with~fuels/chemical-resistant-low-temperature-fluorosilicone-o-rings-for-tube-fittings-with-straight-thread-connection/od~0-558/od~0-624/) I have never gotten the right kit from walker, the best I got was the accel pump diaphragm from one.
Take your carb off, strip it down, spray the thick grime off of it, organize your parts and give the base and top to someone with an ultrasonic cleaner, if not you better have a lot of brake cleaner on hand, and hope nothing is gummed internally. Simply reassemble with your kit once that is done. Make sure the needle and seat orings get replaced and do not break them! You will probably need to take the cover off the screw in the back and adjust that later once its back on the car. You will need to make a new base gasket with the gasket paper, you can use a tape transfer method or press the carb down on the paper to leave an indent. Replace the fuel line, preferably all the way back to the firewall if you can, replace the fuel filters. Replace the vacuum lines you are leaving, or at least the important ones such as to the distributor vacuum advance and the power valve (right of angled port on the back of the carb). Adjust the throttle cable until it has no play and then back it off until it no longer causes a high idle after pressing it, you will know its too tight if you can pull on it and the rpms drop
Your carb really shouldn't need replacing, if you do this it will work fine in most cases. Continue to tuning, the section of the manual starts on pg108 Dropbox - 1989 Accord Service Manual.pdf (https://www.dropbox.com/s/e3qwtw8lvptc4t1/1989%20Accord%20Service%20Manual.pdf?dl=0), also the vacuum delete thread may help you if you need to adjust the accelerator pump. To adjust the screw on the back, get the car up to temp, unscrew the screw until the idle stops rising, STOP, screw it back in until the idle drops, and STOP. DO NOT FULLY UNSCREW IT. Check your float level, turn the float screw until the fuel is roughly in the middle or upper half of the sight glass, look down the rear barrel and make sure no fuel is leaking from the accel pump jet, it is a pinhole pointing diagonally down into the throat on the top back side, its easy to see it if you rev it slightly with your hand, lower float if its leaking.