Clutch shift fork help

[HubertTheHonda]

Just finished my clutch like 1000 miles ago I noticed some stuff was loose but the throwout bearing seems to have just died. I don’t ride the clutch I float gears quite often. I was leaving my house and noticed the clutch was loose and I tightened it and then it just popped apart and I can move the clutch fork easily up and down. I was messing with it with the car running and I can hear the bearing moving and squealing in the right spots so I know everything is still aligned did the bearing just take a dookie on me or what I’m leaning towards that but I haven’t had to deal with this.

[Dr_Snooz]

I've heard of the shift forks breaking before.

[ShiRen]

You should not be able to move the clutch arm by hand, if you could you would probably be able to almost lift the front of the car off the ground. Can you peek in there to look at it? Maybe through the starter hole or with a scope?

[HubertTheHonda]

You should not be able to move the clutch arm by hand, if you could you would probably be able to almost lift the front of the car off the ground. Can you peek in there to look at it? Maybe through the starter hole or with a scope?

I’ll take a gander at it later but it literally just popped, I just finished rebuilding my weber went to go drive it and it literally popped and the pedal went limp so shut it off put it in gear and banged gears home. Id been getting some weird clutch engagement points and having to adjust the cable a lot but I didn’t think it was this bad.

[ShiRen]

I have had the clutch go limp on me once, but I stupidly did not even check the clutch cable, I just pulled the engine and put a clutch in it. I don't think it is the same problem as you are having. Just to clarify though, the arm will have an inch or 2 of free play before it hits the pressure plate. Tighten the cable until there is no play and then try the clutch pedal, maybe get a friend to do it so you can watch it. It could just be a bad cable, I have had issues with cable tension and pedal travel.

I posted this in my cars thread


I had to add a piece of tubing to the bottom of the clutch cable because its so stretched, and also had to remove the jute from behind the pedals under the carpet because there was no way the clutch pedal could move all the way before hitting the carpet.
http://i.imgur.com/rNMEcWb.jpg

[HubertTheHonda]

I have had the clutch go limp on me once, but I stupidly did not even check the clutch cable, I just pulled the engine and put a clutch in it. I don't think it is the same problem as you are having. Just to clarify though, the arm will have an inch or 2 of free play before it hits the pressure plate. Tighten the cable until there is no play and then try the clutch pedal, maybe get a friend to do it so you can watch it. It could just be a bad cable, I have had issues with cable tension and pedal travel.

I posted this in my cars thread

I had initially thought it was the cable and I have my brand new one sitting on the passenger floorboard. I checked it and cable is fine. I think what happened was there wasn’t a lot of free play and I toasted the throwout bearing but thankfully I can still drive it but there’s no clutch like I had said the fork is loose I can move it by hand. In the pedal I had like 1/8” of free play.

[HubertTheHonda]

Pulled the tranny in record time, and noticed the pin thing at the top of the throwout bearing arm is gone, what do I do for a replacement piece on that I found a new arm online. I took pictures I’ll try to post them when I get to a computer.

[Dr_Snooz]

Oh boy. That's the one that's cast into the case, right? Or is it pressed into the case? How in the world did that happen? It's gonna be a bugger if you can't find a donor case (they're getting real scarce). It might come down to tapping a bolt into its place and creatively rounding over the head to act as a new pin. I suppose you could go to the yard and see if you can retrofit something out of a newer car too. Nothing screams waste of time like spending a day dropping trannies at the yard hoping you find a 4-leaf cover inside. Let us know what you end up doing.

[Oldblueaccord]

Hubertthehonda

I moved your question to the main forum since its a good one.

I dont think the fork is available last I looked but its been a few years. The pin you should be able to match up. I think I have some pics of all this Ill dig around or if yo uneed help hosting them I will.

[HubertTheHonda]

I Figured it out its called a clutch fork pin i think I have a picture but not too terribly sure on how I post it here. I assume the pin sheared from all the burnouts for the boys and what not but I have some ideas so ill get that going and take pictures of my fix and let y'all know how it works out and specs of everything. The idea is to thread a bolt into the hole but that will require a machinist to do since its hardened stainless steel but instead of it being a tiny little pin ill bore it out to like an M6 grade 8 bolt and thread it in to do the thing its supposed to. Hopefully I can get this going soon cause these gas prices are killer.

[Oldblueaccord]

I think it is a bolt and a nut thats supposed to be there...call me crazy.

https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/6dfffd60ad371285ff6f7e23ebd08d8a/76f3d743752dc49042fa40333a23060a.gif

[HubertTheHonda]

It’s item 7-8, I’ll try to bore the old broken bolt out and put a new grade 8 in it but the concern is the collar around the top of the fork. When I build it I’ll post some pictures of it for whoever else is unfortunate enough to have this happen.


11094

[Oldblueaccord]

It may be a bolt with a special shoulder length on it. Im sorry I cant really remember.

[Oldblueaccord]

The other thing looking at your pics is there alot of grease on everything. Inside the bellhousing should be clean just clutch dust.

make sure you trans seal is ok and when you put the trans back in put permatex up top where the bellhousing goes to the block to seal out anything coming down from above. Old Chevy trick.

[Dr_Snooz]

Oh, that bolt. I had something else in mind. Honda used a special bolt there. I think it has a long shank plus a dog point, so you're unlikely to find a replacement. Still, I'm sure you can make something else work without much trouble.

[HubertTheHonda]

Well I finally fixed Hubert today it took like 3 hours to have it all back together, I ended up ordering a clutch fork arm thingy off eBay and it was to a different tranny but the bolt worked perfect but I did come up with a pretty solid idea that should work in my guess work and best judgement. You'll need a 35 or 40mm Grade 8 or higher bolt that is M8x1.00 and to make sure it isn't going anywhere I highly advise some Loctite. I put it together with the bolt and tested it out and it worked pretty well i'm confident it would work in a daily driver but with the way I drive my Honda I don't want to test it. Ill post some pictures of what I built cause I ripped it all out to use as an example and put the correct bolt in it and now it drives phenomenally and cleaned the bell housing out. I put the AutoZone specialty clutch in Valeo which is the higher end one but I have had terrible luck in the past with the throw-out bearings in there kits. Pro Tip when putting the tranny back in grease the splines on the clutch and shaft so it slides in a little easier.