88 LXI, 2.0 MFI Notorious question..

[80anBefour]

I have an 88 Accord LXI with about 231,000 miles, and i’m having what seems to be a common issue with this vehicle. I’m located in the South so currently temps are lower, bout 30-ish when I go to crank it up in the morning. It will run and stay running until it gets warm, then when I go to put it in gear it cuts off. I can crank it up and it will start and run, but within 5 seconds it gives two rpm increases and dies again. After cranking and dying for about 5-8 minutes, it stays running and I can drive without an issue. I am the second owner, previous owner had the same issue but said ‘i’ll only drive it when it’s warm out’. (When its warm, it starts and drives without an issue).

When its running during warm up, it does have a pulsing idle between about 800-1600. The coolant level is where it should be, and I replaced the thermo sensor for the ecm, and it is functional. I’ve tried to cover my bases with the basics before asking, but even with doing so i’m having the same issue.

I changed and gapped OE NGK plugs, replaced wires, pulled the IACV out to clean and lube and put back, checked my idle speed and have checked for vacuum leaks. I haven't pulled the distributor or rotor, so it’s possible I may have missed a step. Nevertheless, i’m attempting to see if anyone else has had this issue and come to a conclusive resolution?

[Oldblueaccord]

I have an 88 Accord LXI with about 231,000 miles, and i’m having what seems to be a common issue with this vehicle. I’m located in the South so currently temps are lower, bout 30-ish when I go to crank it up in the morning. It will run and stay running until it gets warm, then when I go to put it in gear it cuts off. I can crank it up and it will start and run, but within 5 seconds it gives two rpm increases and dies again. After cranking and dying for about 5-8 minutes, it stays running and I can drive without an issue. I am the second owner, previous owner had the same issue but said ‘i’ll only drive it when it’s warm out’. (When its warm, it starts and drives without an issue).

When its running during warm up, it does have a pulsing idle between about 800-1600. The coolant level is where it should be, and I replaced the thermo sensor for the ecm, and it is functional. I’ve tried to cover my bases with the basics before asking, but even with doing so i’m having the same issue.

I changed and gapped OE NGK plugs, replaced wires, pulled the IACV out to clean and lube and put back, checked my idle speed and have checked for vacuum leaks. I haven't pulled the distributor or rotor, so it’s possible I may have missed a step. Nevertheless, i’m attempting to see if anyone else has had this issue and come to a conclusive resolution?

I would look under the driver seat for a code just in case. I would then replaced the Main relay.

If it keeps refiring but sputters out id look at the fuel side also. Thats harder to verify if you have fuel pressure or not with out a gauge. There is a test port on the fuel filter banjo fitting under the hood passenger side.

[80anBefour]

I’ve tried checking the code while the light blinks, but its never anything decisive. The light on the ecm blink along with the cel and rpm rising and lowering. Its all in conjunction in other words, theres no distinct 1-3 or 2-1 codes. And iÂ’ve looked at diagrams for the fuse boxes, would that be the fuel pump relay? Sorry for the dumb question

[Oldblueaccord]

I’ve tried checking the code while the light blinks, but its never anything decisive. The light on the ecm blink along with the cel and rpm rising and lowering. Its all in conjunction in other words, theres no distinct 1-3 or 2-1 codes. And iÂ’ve looked at diagrams for the fuse boxes, would that be the fuel pump relay? Sorry for the dumb question

I dont think there should be any light blinking on the ECU if its ok.





https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php/75242-PGM-FI-Main-Relay-repair



https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php/26342-Ecu-Codes-and-How-to-check-them