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Whitehonda
04-14-2003, 05:56 PM
After I leave my car sitting for a peroid of time (a week or more) and I come back to drive it, the rear right brake locks/or freezes up. It is loosened with moving the car back and forth a few times, but I was wondering if anyone knew a way to prevent it from locking in the first place.

Thanks
Cameron

Jareds 89 LX-i
04-14-2003, 07:13 PM
I don't think there's really any way to stop that from happening. It'll happen to any car that sits for awile, the brakes will form a thin layer of rust and get stuck. Just have to drive more often! :D

Whitehonda
04-14-2003, 07:53 PM
Yeah, it's usually driven everyday, but I was in Colorado for a little over a week (went skiing Weee) and thats why it got locked up.

Thanks Jared

ACCORD EX
04-15-2003, 01:26 AM
well if it does it again ! i woud spray some of WD- 40 on the springs ( drum brakes ) you ment E-brake right ! ?

MIKE

Whitehonda
04-15-2003, 05:17 AM
Yeah it is the right rear drum. I am gona take it apart one of these nice summer days and paint the drums anyway, so I might as well do it then.
Cameron

XXFearThisXX
04-15-2003, 01:42 PM
well im sure everyone knows u dont leave your car sitting a while with the E-Brake on but if u dint have it on then just get some Wd-40 in that biatchhhhhh lol

MrBen
04-15-2003, 05:03 PM
Well I'm sure that everyone knows it's not an E- Brake, it's a handbrake.

maxoutracer
04-16-2003, 03:14 AM
rust is the main factor when it comes to brakes. i have all disc brake on my 88 integra, i just recently installed new bembo rotor and it already showing rust around the edge. back when i had 89 LXi i would remove my drum and give it a good wash with brake cleaner. also check your ebake if you have enought free play for the e brake cable, might need adjustment.

toaster13
04-16-2003, 07:04 AM
I had the same problem a few months ago, the brake kept locking up and i found out that the brake cylander was blown, i had to get that replaced. it sounds just like what mine did.

keruhas184
01-25-2008, 08:46 PM
[thread hijacking]

Hey guys, I'd like to get some opinion on a rear break lock up issue I'm having with my 5g. Yeah, I know it's not a 3g but the principles are still the same. Besides, I trust you guys and miss being active on 3geez :wave:

My rear passenger brake has been locking up (i think on and off). I thought it was a bad caliper, so I had the calipers/pads/rotors replaced. Still does the same. I think it is just rear passenger, and maybe it is locked up all the time. Now I can hear an awful grinding sound at low speed, and a squeal a higher speed. Only from rear passenger.

Here's the kicker. The ebrake would be loose occasionally (no effort to move it half way up), as if someone locked it down. Now I don't know if I should look at it as a brake controlling issue (master cylinder), or ebrake cable sticking issue. Don't know if it is cold weather related, but may be the case.

Input would be greatly appreciated. I've never encountered such a problem on my 3g (rip). The worse I've had to deal with was a locked up front caliper piston.

Thanks!


[/thread hijacking] :cheers:

Whitehonda
01-26-2008, 09:06 AM
I actually have a 5th gen EX at the moment, and I had the same problem about a year ago. The rear discs were not even really doing their job. Everytime the parking brake is used the rear brakes are adjusted, if this is not done regularly (or at all) they can get out of adjustment.

I eventually got frustrated and just bought new rear calipers and rotors and replaced them as a unit and it has been great ever since.

Cameron

keruhas184
01-26-2008, 11:39 AM
What do you mean the rear brakes get adjusted every time the lever is pulled? Is there a way to know if it is the bad parking cable or the master cylinder that is causing this problem.

Whitehonda
01-26-2008, 12:56 PM
Master cylinder would not affect rear brakes directly. If the MC is bad, usually it is felt in the pedal (i.e. internal master cylinder leak is common on older accords) causes the pedel to sink a little or feel spongey.

The pads and dics both wear and need to be adjusted as they do so. Honda made it so the pads "auto adjust" or check themselves everytime the parking brake is used.

How old are the rear calipers? Do they seem to grab well and make a smooth clean spot of the rotor? Or is it spotty and not consistant?

If spotty I would suggest replacing the rear calipers with new/rebuit ones (as a unit) and while you are doing so it would be a wise investment to replace the rotors if you plan to keep the car for awhile.

Bottom line, is that over time the parts stick and rust and need to be replaced.

Let me know if I can help further, I think I have a pic of my brakes before and after if you need.

Cameron

keruhas184
01-26-2008, 10:56 PM
ok, that makes more sense. The calipers+pads+rotors were just replaced with no result. One of the brakes is still grabbing. The brake pedal itself is softer now, but I think the shop did a poor job bleeding the brakes, so I'll have them do it over.

Bottom line is that is there a component that distributes brake pressure to individual brake side in the rear? It would make sense that that part went fubar. Anyone know? Thanks guys.


Edit: I'm going to replace the parking brake for the right side and see if that solves the problem. After looking at the brake diagram, it is entirely possible that a faulty cable is causing a lockup. I'll let you guys know.

Whitehonda
01-27-2008, 07:03 PM
The only other thing I would check is the brake proportioning valve. This splits the brake circuit (for example the right front and left rear brake would be on the same circuit, and the left front would be paird with the rear right brake.

Just a thought...

Check the link below to give an idea of location and function.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?cmd=print&id=2172747

Cameron

keruhas184
02-05-2008, 08:31 AM
Got it solved after replacing the ebrake cable!

For future reference, another possible cause for this type of problem (individual caliper locking up) is a defective brake hose at that caliper.