question on distributer? HELP!!!

[jay1988lx]

I need to know fact or fiction. Is it true that a BAD distributer can cause cylinder failure? I was told by a mechanic that my distributer was bad and that I was only running on 2 cylinders, instead of 4 cylinders.

I just had the stock carb rebuilt and a so called tuneup about a week ago. Well, yesterday the damn car just died on me everytime I would slow down or come to a red light it would die. If I dont give it gas when Im slowing down or at a stand still it starts shaking like hell and its dead. Well, I took it in to the same mechanic cause I thought it was the carb. He checked it out and said the carb was fine, but, he had to turn the idle up because I was only running on 2 cylinders and the cause was the distributer.

He said when he pulled 2 of the spark plug wires out the car still runs. And that its leaking from the distributer. Man, I just wana no if this dude is fuckin with me. I spent a whole heap of $$$$$ for the tuneup and the rebuilt carb and its only been a fuckin week and now my distributer is fuckin whack. Somebody tell me if this dude is fuckin with me, PLEASE!!!!!!

[cruznz]

leaking from distributor!!!!!......did this same mechanic do the tune-up?
I'd say he's fukn with you.......imo

[jay1988lx]

As a matter of fact this is the same mechanic that did the tune up. The bad thing about it is I went to autozone to price a distributer and the counter person qouted me 169.00 damn!!! I actually took the distributer off and put a used one in from pick/pull, damn car wouldnt start. Put the old one back on and the damn thing started up, but, still stalls....I learn something new every day about theses cars, why in the hell cant this autozone or whoever check and test theses things like they do every other funkin things.....sorry, just a little fustrated. I think now is a good time to do the HAKA. LOL! thanx fo lookin out.

[ACCORD EX]

check the spark pluhs on those two cylinders and the resistance of teh wires going to it ! BTW may be he messed up the firing order of the wires if messed with him !

MIKE

[ACCORD EX]

another thing ! check the rotor and distributer cap !

MIKE

[shepherd79]

if you are missing spark, most likely you have some moisture inside the distributor mine does that all the time.
the other thing is that your distributor cap and rotor may be worn very bad.

[jay1988lx]

thats the whole thing is that the cap, rotor, spark plug and wires are a little over a week old. I rechecked the firing order with wire to spark plug and thats all good. I mean back to the original question.....can a bad distributor cas my engine to run on 2 cylinders?

I just want to be sure cas I feel everytime I put some hard working money into this car, Im told of another problem that has come up and more money, more money, more money!!!!! Theses MECHS are killin me man.

thanx for the suggestions, but I need more to find this shit out.

[Morpheus]

haha 2 cylinders?

I think you would notice if you had 2 cylinders because it would run extremely rough and have about 30 hp.

[jay1988lx]

When you say rough: a) when the car is actually on the move. b) when it is at a stand still. If it is (b) the car is rough and shaking like hell trying to stay alive and then it dies. When Im on the move its fine, dont no much about how much hp its getting but it dosen't run like my 68 vw bug and a got a lawn mower engine in that. At least that what my buddy told me who drives a saleen.

[markmdz89hatch]

jay, if your car was only running on 2 cylinders, you would be even more of an unhappy camper then you are now. The car would not even have enough power to get itself out of its own way. If you wanna test to see if you're really running on 2 cyl., an easy way to check would be to start the car, go under the hood and pull a plug wire, start with 1, then move up to 4. Only do one at a time, and before you yank the next, put the one you just pulled, back on. If the car does not run any different when you yank a wire, that means you're not firing in that cylinder. That would cause an erratic idle, but like I said, you'de notice a substancial power decrease from before.

If I were you, I'd replace the gasket for the distributor cap (special order, dealer only part, but it's only like $4-8), then put it in and make sure that the cap makes a good seal. Maybe there's a leak somewhere, either the cap->disty housing, or a cracked cap, but if any moisture gets in there, it can foul things up a bit. If you wanna be a little more precautious, get some white lithium grease (bulb/plug grease) and put an ever so slight drop of it on each point in the disty cap. A disty that's not sealed up real good will cause the car to idle real rough if any moisture gets in there. Yep, you guessed it, I've done that too.

The other possibility is that when he rebuilt the carb, he could have fugghed that up. From what I hear, they're not that difficult to rebuild, but from what I know first hand, they're just as easy to screw up. I think he may have screwed up.

PM A20A1 with carb questions. He's the man when it comes to knowing these carbs inside and out.

[jay1988lx]

Thanx so much for the info. But, let me ask? When I pull each plug starting from 1 up to 4, that is doing it one at a time then reconnecting before pulling the next plug, at the same time listening for an erratic idle. Which is the number 1,2,3 and 4 plug? And are the cylinders number the same way?

So for example: If I pull the number 1 spark plug and the engine gives me that erratic sound that you describe, it would be the number 1 cylinder? Wait a minute, shit! I just re-read your informative information. If the engine dose NOT give me that erratic idle, then that cylinder is NOT operating. Right? I guess what Im trying to ask is no engine sound change from spark plug #1 means number #1 cylinder is not operating?

Distributor gasket is brand new cost $6.50 honda dealership. So with all this said is it possible or realistic that my distributer is the cause of all this problem. That is taken this mechs word that the carb is rebuilt correctly. Im actually not to worried about the carb only because I got 120 days warranty on it. And I seen the dude actually work on it, didnt know what the hell he was doing but he rebuilt it with a new kit.

Hey, thanx for the advice. I swear i pulled this freakin disty out 5 times already. The good thing is that Im actually getting good at it. Just wish I knew the other parts as well. I guess when they break down I probably will cause Im done with overpaid mechs. Thanks, Im outa here to try that test you told me to do. Be back in a second or for that matter my knowledge the whole day.

[jay1988lx]

Oh, would there be any other devices or parts that would cause a problem with cylinder failure?

[markmdz89hatch]

ok, if you pull the plug on any of the cylinders, there is no longer any spark on that cylinder b/c there's no wire for the current. Basically by doing that, you're taking that cylinder down. If the car does run shittier, that means that that cylinder WAS working correctly. Reconnect it. Cyl.1 works now. Pull the plug on 2, do the same. Now if when you pull the plug, the car does not run any differenlty, that means that that cyl was NOT operating even prior to you pulling the plug. aka.: something wrong.

The sequence you pull them in is no big deal, just don't pull two at once. One at a time.

It may not be the disty. It really could be a dirty carb, but let's try this little simple test first.

[TJ89Accord]

check the plugs too, maybey they fouled out.

[ACCORD EX]

i totally agree with markmdz89hatch !

once you find you cylinder check it's spark plug ! ( some spark plugs are factory defected :( )

MIKE

[jay1988lx]

Damn dude you guys are hella good!!!! Actually bowing to the 3Geez's forum. Or right now I feel like Im getting some where. I just did that little test that Master Mark told me to do, and this is the outcome of that test....Im not even going to try and guess the spark plug number, but, its the spark plug closest to the driver's side. When I pull that wire off the engine maintains like I never even touched it. All the other wires gave me a erratic engine sound. I pulled the plug out and checked it even switched it with the other plugs and that same spot closest to the driver's side still had no reaction or erratic sound coming from it.

So dose this mean Im running on 3 cylinders? What are my options? Is it the DISTRIBUTER? Or is it one of thoses things you got to replace a part and keep fingers cross that it fixes the problem. And if not spend more money on other parts that it could be? Well, let me know what you think.......PLEASE!!!

[markmdz89hatch]

OK, time to start guessing. I'll start off with, I'm not really sure what it could be, if it's one thing, or a number of things contributing to the problem.

Let's start with the the easy stuff. Check the wires to make sure that they're good. I don't have it in front of me, but I think that's cyl 1 that you pointed out. Anyway, an easy way to check if it's the wire, swap the wires for 1 and 2. The wire for 2 is usually long enough to reach one. Now remember, don't just pull it from the plug and swap 'em, you gotta switch it on the cap too. Also, just for shits&giggles, notice on the cap, right near the receptors for the wires, you'll see each marked 1-4. I don't remember the order. Make sure that you have the correct plug-to-wire setup. IF when you switch the 1 and 2 wires, you start it up and do the same test, and get the same result, you know it's not the wire. If 2 now has no reaction when pulled, then it's the wire. In that case, replace 'em and call it a day. If 1 is still the trouble, then it's time for the "think tank". hmmm.... I wonder if the timing could have anything to do with that being like that.... ...time to break out the good 'ol service manual. There is a little adjuster screw for the manifold right on top where it meets the head. By changing that adjustment, you can advance/retard the timing a little. That's where it's out of my league. Just IMO (disclaimer: definitly get a secong opinion on this one) play with that adjustment ever-so-slightly and see if that changes anything.

This step is one that I would take only provinding all wires are tested and work, the cap (and contacts inside it) and rotor are good, plugs good.

I'm not a mechanic, but I don't like spending $$ that I don't have to. ...and the only reason I know what I do is b/c I did the same thing you're doing. Ask questions, and don't be afraid to try things on your own.

[jay1988lx]

Hey, thanx for your help. Im going to try this and see what happens. like I said you learn something new everytime a open up the hood of the 3geez. Well, lookie here right on the fu** cap close to the receptors for the wire, markings that tell you the spark plug numbering! Hey, thanx for the info.

cool runnins......jay

[ACCORD EX]

after you do the wire test that Master Mark told you ! :D and you found out it's not the problem ! (BTW you can just measure th resistance of the wire using a multimeter ! should be < 25000 ohms ) anyway if it's not the the i would check inside of teh cap and teh rotor !

good luck !

MIKE

[anchovies]

Or you can just get one of those pointer like pen that lights up so you can use to test that the wire is actually firing. Wal-mart couple of bucks. Or just do it in the dark, pull that #1 wire from the plug, put it close and see if u get sparks. If not check the distributor cap (you already know where the # is and which part to check).

[jay1988lx]

Well, did all the tests: a) switching wires. b) pointer like pen test. (#1 sparking given out spark) c) measured resistance of wire, showing good resistance. e) new cap and rotor no moisture or signs of dampness.

So, with all this done with carefulness and a whole lot of patience, can I ASSUME its the distributer. Cas, that cylinder is still not firing for some reason. And with all your help and info of eliminating one problem at a time its still pointing towards the disty. Well, at least that is my UNPROFFESIONAL opinion.

Well, thank you so much for all the info and if you have any other ideas or tests that I can do before I spend more money on a new disty, hell feel free to express yourself. At least I get a honest and detail respond up in here instead of a half ass respond form a mech that is milkin me for hard earn money.

Thanx and Cool Runnins.
Jay.

[AccordEpicenter]

it could be a messed up sensor in the distributor but thats wierd... Id say get one at a yard and try it, dont pay this mechanic the $$$ to do it hell rape you over it. Besides they arent that hard if you have the proper toolz. Just so you know fuel injected distributors DONT WORK in the carb engines.

[anchovies]

If it's getting spark at that #1 wire then it's not the distributor. You did try another spark plug right? Or just get new ones (issit new? :D) Maybe fuel?
Carb guys might be able to help you better.

[cruznz]

what was the resistance of the lead? Did you measure all the leads?

[ACCORD EX]

man you get the spark right ! so it's not teh distrubuter ! and i have ths same question what was the resistance ??

MIKE

[POS carb]

cars can run on 2 cyl i've done it, if opposite cyls on power stroke are disconnected the engine will still be "balanced" in terms of intake/pstroke cycles so it will run but shitty. Your distrib could cause that but first check everything mentioned above
1.plugs
2. cap/rotor
3. wires

if those check ok have someone check the spark

[ACCORD EX]

he already checked the spark ! and he has is at the faulty cylinder !

MIKE

[accord86]

whats the firing order for the spark plugs

[jay1988lx]

alright accord86 you got to break it down for me. firing order?

[buzzbomber88lx]

To see how many cylinders you are running on get the car a little warm and take a garden hose and spray each tube on the manifold. An old muscle car trick. i never tried it though. also you can pull a plug wire off at idle and if it lowers the idle then that cylinder is working, if it doesnt lower your idle than that cylinder isnt working. Also i think you can pull the plug out and put your thunb in the hole and see if it pushes your thumb out of the hole. I believe that works also. I don't know! just some old tricks of the trade.

[DanG86LX]

jay1988lx, since there is spark @ #1, forget dist. Maybe a compression test would be helpful..

Firing order ? 1-3-4-2 where #1 @ timing belt and #4 @ dist. .. but i don't see the relevance here!

[ACCORD EX]

my bet is on the wire's resistance ! the you have to do a compression test ! :)

MIKE