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thundertank
05-04-2003, 11:18 PM
Ok I just installed the weber 32\36 and everything works fine. The only thing is when I brake really hard or brake and turn at the same time my car will die. Does anyone know why this may be? Also after hooking up weber my temp gauge doesnt work because it is vacuum ran and i took all my vacuum lines out, is there an easy fix or replacement? Any info would be great. thanks.

A20A1
05-04-2003, 11:52 PM
the temp guage is not run off vacuum.

there are 2 coolant lines that connect to the intake manifold that you can remove if you want... I didn't tell you to remove those two lines when I wrote the how-to for you. I'm guessing you read the other how-to and bypassed the coolant lines anyways.

In either case you still need to plug the hole on the manifold and plug the smaller coolant line.

Do you have the brake booster line hooked up?

did you plug all manifold vacuum taps on the manifold?
there are 6 vacuum holes on the intake manifold and 2 ports for the larger coolant lines.

1 of the 6 ports you need to keep connected to the brake booster, make sure you leave the check valve in place.

A20A1
05-04-2003, 11:54 PM
BTW what did you use to plug the hole on the manifold?

I hope you didn't rely on just the gasket to hold up... if it fails you'll suck a whole lot of coolant into the manifold and kill the engine, if you are still runing coolant thru the manifold so you can use the stock temp sensor.

Did you hook up the vacuum advance line? and where did you hook the line to? the weber or the manifold vacuum tap?

A20A1
05-04-2003, 11:59 PM
here you go.

2old_honda
05-05-2003, 12:04 AM
Originally posted by A20A1
here you go.

thats a good pic, very usefull.

A20A1
05-05-2003, 12:05 AM
hrm lets see.. the big gaping hole in the very back of the manifold actually is supposed to have a tube coming out of it which then spits into 2 seperate vacuum ports... one larger then the other.

the port sticking out to the right of the big hole is the tap for the brake booster. It uses about A 7/16" diameter hose.


the 2 blue arrows are the places where you should have coolant lines connected to... the blue arrow at the bottom-center of the pic was a bad attempt at pointing to the smaller coolant line that ran under the manifold that you needed to plug.

thundertank
05-05-2003, 12:12 AM
I did what the other how to said and i connected the two coolant lines and plugged the manifold. should i have left those connected? there are two lines that come off of the sending unit right by the thermostat housing where do they go? BTW i used a gas tank repair putty and filled and capped the coolant line in the intake. and what did you mean by killing the engine as in stalls out or perm. damage and cant drive no more. lol.

A20A1
05-05-2003, 12:20 AM
yeah... you'll need to un-connect the 2 coolant lines that the other how to said to connect.. and then put them back on the intake manifold... then as long as the sensor wire is still connected to the temp sensor under the intake manifold... your coolant temp guage will work.

thundertank
05-05-2003, 12:21 AM
and yes i did keep the brake booster connected and plugged the small coolant line. I plugged the vacuum advance into the manifold and plugged the vacuum port for it on the weber. do you have a pic that shows how my sending unit for the temp gauge should be hooked up? that would help.

A20A1
05-05-2003, 12:23 AM
huh? leave it stock. the sending unit is under the intake manifold under the brake booster vacuum port. there should be a wire coming out of the manifold... that is for the temp guage.

thundertank
05-05-2003, 12:24 AM
also you know that black plastic box on the right hand side across from the cruise control stuff? should i remove that as well? and if so what do i do to the metal pipe that comes off of my exhaust manifold?

thundertank
05-05-2003, 12:25 AM
ok i see what your saying about the temp gauge (sorry confused)

A20A1
05-05-2003, 12:29 AM
the plastic is a part of the air suction system... you can remove that... just not the valve itself or the pipe.

the valve is the metal UFO shaped bit that had a vacuum line coming out of it. same goes for the EGR... you can't remove the pipe or the valve.

if you cut the pipe off you can remove the air suction valve but not the egr valve. You'll have to weld the pipes shut on the exhaust maifold to keep it from leaking.

thundertank
05-05-2003, 12:33 AM
ok. how did you seal the coolant hole under the adapter plates? and if i didnt port the adapter plate will that lose me some pony's? thanks for being so helpful man i really appreciate it.

A20A1
05-05-2003, 12:43 AM
I used metal putty... I guess it may be the same stuff you used... it said it could be used around gas and is safe with other chemicals. It was also like an adhesive...

I use that stuff a lot in projects... like the one in the link below.
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17102

in one of the pics you can see the putty surrounding the carb barrels... I tried to form small air horn like lips to smooth out the air flow.

thundertank
05-05-2003, 12:55 AM
One more question, you know that canister that is below the box with all the vacuum lines coming out of it? should i just remove that completly or is there something that needs to be hooked up to it? also what about the flexible hose that used to fit on the bottom of the air filter housing that goes to the exhaust manifold? remove that as well. oh yeah im going to take my car to try and pass emissions tommorow!!! think i'll pass ??

A20A1
05-05-2003, 03:10 AM
what? emissions testing? OMG

well you can detune the weber to run lean... since you don't have the air suction valve or the EGR working for you.

is the test done at all engine speeds like normal driving and such... or is it taken at idle?

the canister below the vacuum control box is the charchol canister... it bleeds off fuel vapors from the fuel tank when the car starts... reduces vapor lock I think. I never plugged the line on the firewall so I guess i may be slowly bleeding off gas when my cars just sitting there... I may cap it off though... see if it's effects something.

thundertank
05-05-2003, 11:51 AM
hey I was just kiddin about the emissions. yeah i left my canister unplugged too. it doesnt seem to do anything if i plug it so i geuss its ok. its still dying when i hit the brakes really hard though. do you think i have a vacuum leak or something could that cause it. I plugged all the vacuums on the manifold. and i have the brake booster hooked up. i dont know im going to mess with it some more.