Project, 4g Distributor / Ecu ( Obd-1 )

[SQ is the SQUAD]

the problem i see is getting everything to fit with o-rings and seals so that it dosent leak

[Swap_File]

It seems no one else wants to try hack up a distributor like I did. :)

My way definitely fits, and should work fine once I get the key drilled. It's a cheap way to make an OBD-1 distributor fit, but it's rather labor intensive (and it might not look as professional as an adapter plate).

If anyone else wants to try it, I am happy to provide more information, or more pictures. Remember, no special tools are really needed. Just a drill, a hack saw, some files (optional), and JB Weld to patch the holes.

[newaccorddriver]

It seems no one else wants to try hack up a distributor like I did. :)

My way definitely fits, and should work fine once I get the key drilled. It's a cheap way to make an OBD-1 distributor fit, but it's rather labor intensive (and it might not look as professional as an adapter plate).

If anyone else wants to try it, I am happy to provide more information, or more pictures. Remember, no special tools are really needed. Just a drill, a hack saw, some files (optional), and JB Weld to patch the holes.


id like some pictures if its not too much of a hassle. im either going OBD1 or megasquirt. cant really decide on that yet.

just curious on how you plan to make the distributor fit on the head. dont you need to cut and reweld the legs?

[Swap_File]

The old pictures are back here:

Step 1 - Drilling Holes and Test Fitting:
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=605277&postcount=237

Step 2 - Filling Holes:
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=608057&postcount=239

I re-assembled it fully last weekend, but didn't get any pictures of it. I will make sure to take some more pictures this weekend. As you can see, it bolts up without hitting anything, and all 3 bolt holes line up.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

swap, can you id either one of these dizzy's. i think the one on the left is a 96 d16 dizzy but i am not sure

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/6286/dizzy36ny.jpg

[Swap_File]

I do not know what they are offhand... The one of the left might be from an F22, but I can't tell. Try cleaning them up along the the outer edge where I drew the red line:

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/9243/dizzy36ny1yy.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

There should be a small imprinted number like TD-31U or similar. Look that number up and you can find out what car the distributor is from.

You can see the number on my distributor in this picture:
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/4530/dis010large9dk3ez.th.jpg (http://img204.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dis010large9dk3ez.jpg)

[Legend_master]

After looking over several dizzies today I relized that the H22 distributor is very simlar to ours. I am thinking about trying that one out, but I will need my friends at Autozone to hook me up. I will let you guys know how it turns out.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

ill get the dizzy numbers in a bit. does it help any buying a civic odb0-odb1 conversion hatness or will i be wasting money?

http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/ECU0800

[accordrollingon18z]

does the 4g distributer bolt right up

[bobafett]

not even close buddy, thats why there are threads about how to MODIFY a 4g dizzy to get it to bolt up. and thats why we are discussing adapter plates to allow us to bolt it on. :)

[Legend_master]

ill get the dizzy numbers in a bit. does it help any buying a civic odb0-odb1 conversion hatness or will i be wasting money?

http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/ECU0800


That will not work on our cars. The Accord Ecu is completely different then all the other Obd1 ecus.

[guaynabo89]

It seems no one else wants to try hack up a distributor like I did. :)

My way definitely fits, and should work fine once I get the key drilled. It's a cheap way to make an OBD-1 distributor fit, but it's rather labor intensive (and it might not look as professional as an adapter plate).

If anyone else wants to try it, I am happy to provide more information, or more pictures. Remember, no special tools are really needed. Just a drill, a hack saw, some files (optional), and JB Weld to patch the holes.

I cut the distributor in the beginnig of 05 and still running stron. I thinbk I paid about probably 100 dollars for rewelding the tabs on the way I wanted and redrilling the key.

And of course I had to polish up the distributor a little bit for it to look nice.:D

Here are some pictures of the 4th gen distributor mounted on the a20.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p8a0b3dac16702790cd03df45d9c80550/f515bd43.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p40bb2be608156b4dc00d9518a56926ec/f515bd47.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p79c204b8c4e44a07f7741231fdbc8507/f515bd4e.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p3af75fd37fa0b955ae18350f3aea32bb/f515bd51.jpg

[SQ is the SQUAD]

that shit looks good. that prob the was i gotta go

[Swap_File]

Here are pictures of my modified F22 distributor:

http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/9742/040706005large5co.th.jpg (http://img57.imageshack.us/my.php?image=040706005large5co.jpg)http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/3799/040706006large5av.th.jpg (http://img57.imageshack.us/my.php?image=040706006large5av.jpg)http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/5522/040706007large0zk.th.jpg (http://img293.imageshack.us/my.php?image=040706007large0zk.jpg)http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/1325/040706008large3lk.th.jpg (http://img57.imageshack.us/my.php?image=040706008large3lk.jpg)http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/6130/040706009large6zv.th.jpg (http://img57.imageshack.us/my.php?image=040706009large6zv.jpg)http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/6489/040706011large7if.th.jpg (http://img293.imageshack.us/my.php?image=040706011large7if.jpg)http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/3210/040706012large4ux.th.jpg (http://img57.imageshack.us/my.php?image=040706012large4ux.jpg)

It was $30 for the distributor, and $6 for the JB Weld.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

so i take these wount have any adjustment

[Swap_File]

Mine can be adjusted if I only use the top two bolt holes. If I use all three, like I am planning to do, I will not be able to adjust it.

The inital timing adjustment can just be done by where I drill the new key, and adjustments from there can all be done in Chrome (software for programming the chip in the ECU).

Edit: I could probably notch the bottom hole to be able to adjust it, but I do not think it will be needed. I would have notched it in the first place, but I was worried about the aluminum not being strong enough in that area.

[newaccorddriver]

It was $30 for the distributor, and $6 for the JB Weld.


if you manage to make it work properly, ill gladly be your first customer. and ill be nice and let you profit off my lazyness too:cheers:

[SQ is the SQUAD]

so we need to post more about wiring, ect

[newaccorddriver]

so we need to post more about wiring, ect


i cant see how wiring would be that much of an issue. we just need a conversion harness and probably have to wire a few things on our own

[A20A1]

Very nice work you guyss. :)

Any update on the H series distributor?

[SQ is the SQUAD]

well i am totally lost on the wireing

[SQ is the SQUAD]

i just picked up a 92 accord distributor and a po6 ecu today, freaking $73! anyways, i gotta stay home ad do some stuff today so while i am derusting my calipers ill start modding the distributor

[SQ is the SQUAD]

i am dicecting my 92 accord dizzy and its pretty clean inside, its ovious someone has been in here before. how the hell do i get this rotor off? i dont see any screw holding it on and i tried yanking it off but i dont want to brake anythnig

edit: i got it off with a lil help from my andle grinder

[SQ is the SQUAD]

after playing around wth my spare motor in my basement, i almost figured out how i am going to mount my distributor. i basically notched the side of my dizzy and rounded off some of the edge of the water outlet and nut to get it to fit. now i just got to drill 3 bolt holes and permantley mount it like this

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/299/picture2520wa.jpg

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/1985/picture2515ri.jpg

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/7408/picture2508mq.jpg

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/3155/picture2536kp.jpg

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/7585/picture2540kp.jpg

[SQ is the SQUAD]

did this thread die?

[newaccorddriver]

did this thread die?


either that or theres absolutely no new progress from anyone yet...

[EricW]

Aren't you going to have to drill another hole in the cam key when you mount the distributor in that position?

[g2driver]

When there was word on needing to lengthen distributor shaft, was that only if a spacer was involved? Because u could make a 2 or 3 peice adapter that goes on the other side of the distributor. With the carb'd engines I think this would b easier. Also this wiring harness,... is there a stand alone, or do you guys think a home made ECU is possible, ONLY for the cab'd people. Maby its becuase ive been up way too long reading about this. I think it might be possible with mainly relays. If the ECU was simply to run the distributor, it would need what sensors? TPS, knock sensor, TDC sensor, is that it? Assuming emmisions didnt matter. OHH cyl #1 sensor too. But the MAP, IAT, o2 sensor wuouldnt b needed right? No maby this is too involved, what do you think guys?

MAtt

[Swap_File]

I won't be able to work on my car until I get done with this semester of college.

I should be back home around May 15th, and hope to finish this project (along with my manual swap) by the end of May. I will be sure to post lots of pictures and instructions.

[g2driver]

Wow I just read that, I think i was getting a little to involved in this last night. HAHA. But something to look into for the people that dont want to do this much work for a igntion. With the F/I stock distributor is there 1 or 2 vac lines running to it? With the carb there are 2, and the 1 only has vaccum when the car is cold. So if we ran a T peice to have vaccum on both, like the vac removal diagram, it would run more advanced.

Matt

[A20A1]

too bad we couldn't just rig up something to rotate the cap instead off redrilling the key thing.

[A20A1]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p3af75fd37fa0b955ae18350f3aea32bb/f515bd51.jpg

You could proably find a hex key headed bolt that will go in place of that stud and still give you about the same clearance instead of hacking up the nut.

[guaynabo89]

You could proably find a hex key headed bolt that will go in place of that stud and still give you about the same clearance instead of hacking up the nut.


True.

But I dont have any plans of removing that piece right now and at the time it was alot easier to grind it down on one side to going and getting another bolt.

Amazingly enough the nut still tightens and loosens because I didnt wear it down into the stud.

Its a good idea to keep in mind though.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

i did mine the same way and it has no probs tighting and loosening. any got a how to on wiring up the p06 ecu?

[SQ is the SQUAD]

any word on this or is it a dead project. i have the po6 ecu, i have the wires to make the conversion harness and i have the 93 accord dizzy. just need help on the wire part to make the jumper and aire the dizzy

[Swap_File]

I really haven't made any progress, because my automatic transmission finally died, and I have been busy swapping in a manual. I thought the swap was going to be quick, but I keep ending up replacing things along the way... the engine mounts, water pump, oil pump, timing belt, rear and front seals, swapping to a B series radiator, new fenders, new tail lights, front and rear suspension stuff, and a bunch of other little things. I hope to be done in a week or two (I am waiting for parts to arrive).

The 1989 dealer manual has a really good pinout of the ECU. It is not in the PDFs. Here is a scan of most of it:
http://img0624.paintedover.com/uploads/thumbs/0624/schematic1.jpg (http://paintedover.com/uploads/show.php?loc=0624&f=schematic1.jpg)http://img0624.paintedover.com/uploads/thumbs/0624/schematic2.jpg (http://paintedover.com/uploads/show.php?loc=0624&f=schematic2.jpg)

There was also a pinout list in the other thread, here:
http://3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=477301&postcount=150

As soon as I get my Accord going again I will start to work on the ECU swap again.

[EricW]

Theres also an excel file around here somewhere with the PJ0 pin out and several other ecus.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

i have the excel file, it has a bunch of ecu pinouts if you want it let me know

[EricW]

i have the excel file, it has a bunch of ecu pinouts if you want it let me know

I have it, I just couldn't find it again on here.

[A20A1]

Mwahahah! :D
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114

[ACCLUDE91]

I have many 4th gen lude and accord distributors and other parts laying around. I will play around with them and see if I have anything valid to add to this thread.

I do plan to convert to OBD1 and run a P06 w/ Uber so hopefully I can add a few things.

So far, I can say that out of the 4 CB7's I've owned and over the 10 years I've had them, NONE of the ignition modules/ignitors ever went bad. I saw it mentioned early in the thread that it is a common thing and that is just not true. They are no more likely to fail than any other Honda distributor. Sure it happens, but it is not a common thing.

[A20A1]

Think I can reuse this bit for the conversion?
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/cutomatic.jpg

[military mase]

ummmm??? So i did'nt have to worry about the hassle of all the repinning i just contacted rywire(ryan is a cool guy). He made me a conversion harness for a P72 w/spoon P75 chip. Is there some other wiring issues i'm missing here??? I notice on the dizzy there is 6 wires but for the OBD-1 wire there 4. Is there 2 you don't use or are 2 spliced together.

[newaccorddriver]

ummmm??? So i did'nt have to worry about the hassle of all the repinning i just contacted rywire(ryan is a cool guy). He made me a conversion harness for a P72 w/spoon P75 chip. Is there some other wiring issues i'm missing here??? I notice on the dizzy there is 6 wires but for the OBD-1 wire there 4. Is there 2 you don't use or are 2 spliced together.


im willing to bet that the remaining 2 are for the tach if youve got an internal coil

[shepherd79]

OK, so does anyone going to make HOW TO?
I am interested in how did you make it light up with #1 cylinder at TDC since you have to flip the distributor upside down. did you have to rotate the cam key 180 deg. or what?

[EricW]

I am currently working on another method of mounting the OBD1 distributor using the base of a stock distributor as an adapter. If it works I'll post some pics of it.

[A20A1]

like what I'm doing? I wasn't sure where to cut it but I made the cut right above the well for the bearing.

[EricW]

I think im either going to use it where i comes apart about 2" from the bottom or less than 1\2" above that.

[EricW]

Here's my current progress on making an adapter out of an stock efi distributor. So far the only parts I have used are from the distributor, by the looks of it the only thing i will need to by is some steel a few nuts and bolts, and a large washer.

I cut the distributor shaft just below the hole in it, where the rotor was on the shaft for the crank angle sensor in the lower half. You can see the part for the sensors on the far left of the pic next to the vice.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2040.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2040.jpg)

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2042.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2042.jpg)

I cut the rotor for the sensors(on the far left of pic above) just above the large flat piece and removed the small black piece for the sensor. I then removed a small amount from the bottom of it and then mounted on the shaft and drilled a hole threw the shaft to secure it, I used the pin i removed from the shaft to reattach the piece of the rotor assembly.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2049.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2049.jpg)

Here is what it looks like in the base of the distributor.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2045.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2045.jpg)

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2048.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2048.jpg)

I will be making a plate/bracket something similar to this template i am creating out of this piece of 3 layer thick card board. The 4g distributor will mount to the plate and the plate will be held down to the stock distributor base.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2044.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2044.jpg)

The plan is to add a washer to the top of the rotor assembly and then cut the two notches into it so it will look like the end of the cam shaft and accept the key on the end distributor. I will still have to cut one leg off of the 4g distributor and another small square piece next to one of the legs.

[MessyHonda]

wow that is cool....later once its finish you should make a seperate thread that does not have 16 pages...and then some mods should make it a sticky...good luck with your swap....are you going to dyno after?

[EricW]

wow that is cool....later once its finish you should make a seperate thread that does not have 16 pages...and then some mods should make it a sticky...good luck with your swap....are you going to dyno after?

No i don't plan on taking it to a dyno. I will probably just create a decent street tune so i am more fluent with tunning and then install the turbo stuff and have more fun.

[A20A1]

I'm confused... but I remember I don't have that part of the distributor since I'm carbureted.

How doed that bit engage the 4th gen distributor? and what about the assembly being balanced?

looks good though

[EricW]

After I weld a washer to the top of the shaft i will then cut the two notches in it to make it mirror the end of the cam shaft. The small shaft i will am creating will basically be a 2" extension of the end of the cam shaft. As for being balanced well right now it should be pretty close and it will be when i finish with it but i don't think i will have a way to balance it without taking it to a machine shop. I don't think it will cause that much of a problem since I am keeping all of the weight as close to the shaft as possible.

[shepherd79]

cool, can't wait for the finished product.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

glad to see this thread picking back up again

[EricW]

Heres some more progress. If I have another couple of hours to work on it I should be able to finish it.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2067c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2067c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2066c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2066c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2065c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2065c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2064c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2064c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2063c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2063c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2062c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2062c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2061c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2061c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2060c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2060c.jpg)

[EricW]

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2059c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2059c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2058c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2058c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2057c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2057c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2056c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2056c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2055c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2055c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2054c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2054c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2052c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2052c.jpg)

The only problem that i see right now is one of the screws that holds the distributor cap on may hit the thermostat housing, but i won't know until I get the distributor mounted.

[guaynabo89]

hey Eric Did you or are you going to key the distributor key at all? The reason I ask is because without doing that the distributor is facing the wrong way for it to fire the cylinders correctly. it would have to sit with the square side facing down and hitting the water pipe coming out of the cylinder head for it to fire correctly if the distribbutor isnt keyed.

[EricW]

I haven't got that far yet. But if you say it needs to be done then it will do it when I cut the slots in the shaft for the key to fit into instead of re-drilling the key. If you look in the first and second pic of the update that i posted you can see the shaft that is going to be between the cam and the key is laying on the adapter plate. I still have to weld a washer to the top of the shaft and the cut the slots in the proper places for the key. I may also have to get a different upper radiator hose but i will figure that out when the time comes.

[EricW]

I solved the problem of how to line up the key on the distributor. First of all i ran into some clearance issues with the way i was going to mount the distributor so i moved it up about 1/2 and inch or so by using another part of the stock distributor.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2075c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2075c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2076c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2076c.jpg)


Surprisingly the place where there is a bearing in the stock distributor is the right size for the Bottom of the distributor to seal fit into. The only thing I had to do was remove the lip on the bottom.

Since the firing order is the same (1 3 4 2) I lined up the distributor with the number one cylinder mark on the bottom and had the part of the stock distributor lined up with the # 1 cylinder mark also.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2074c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2074c.jpg)

I had to make the shaft a little longer to compensate for the extra 1/2 inch that i moved the distributor up. I welded two 7/16 washers to the top of the shaft. Then a reassembled the base and placed it on the head so it was at TDC. I already had the 4g distributor on the #1 cylinder/TDC mark and then place a small amount of paint on the bottom of the key. Then i mounted the distributor how i wanted it so it would leave an imprint of paint on the washer i welded to the top of the shaft and removed the distributor. I disassembled the base and then marked the outside edges of the paint with a sharpie and used the cut off tool to cut the notches into the washers.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2073c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2073c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2072c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2072c.jpg)

I reassembled the base and placed the adapter plate on it. I placed the distributor back on top with the key in the slots and marked where i needed to drill the holes for the 4g distributor, drilled the holes and traced where i need to cut.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2079c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2079c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2077c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2077c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2080c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2080c.jpg)

I welded to nuts to the bottom of the plate where i had drilled the holes for the bolts for the 4g distributor.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2071c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2071c.jpg)

[EricW]

Here's some more pics of the distributor in place.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2088c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2088c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2096c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2096c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2095c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2095c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2094c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2094c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2093c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2093c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2092c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2092c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2091c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2091c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2090c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2090c.jpg)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/th_100_2089c.jpg (http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2089c.jpg)

I just need to cut the adapter plate into the shape i want it and the rest of it will be running wiring for the distributor. I am also going to have to remove the stud for the distributor since its not long enough to hold the plate down.

[shepherd79]

So i don't understand. why can't we just mount 4g distributor with key in right way. I getting ready to do this project myself.
So far i found that 3G key is horisontal and 4G key is vertical. but if you turn the distirbutor one way to the other it should work. i am sure i am going to have to grind and what not, but at least i won't need to redrill the key.

I can't wait for cylinder head get here so i can start the project.

[A20A1]

I hope it makes it there in one piece... I had to form a custom box. The cardboard was kinda cheap though, since it was ment to transport bulk clothing items.

[guaynabo89]

So i don't understand. why can't we just mount 4g distributor with key in right way.

if you do nothing to the key you will need to bend the water pipe coming out of the cylinder head down to clear the distributor. This is what justanothermike did. if you look on the first page you will see the square part of the distributor cap is pointing almost straight down and just a little forward. That is how you can mount the distributor without modifying it and use tabs to hod the distributor on like justanothermike did.

If you take the key off the distributor and put it back on 180 Degrees from how it originally comes you can mount the distributor with the square part of it facing up and towards the rear. The only problem with that is that the distributor hits the thermostat housing and will be off timing. And you canot bend the thermostat housing out of the way like you can the water pipe coming out of the cylinder head.

I did not want to bend my water pipe down so thats why I just put a couple of holes through the key so I could put the distributor in a stock-like position. With the square part of the distributor cap facing up.


Eric

Is this the way you are mounting it? and did you redrill the key at all?
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2089c.jpg

i f you did not redrill the key I dont think that is top dead center. That is the way I had set mine up too when I had the legs welded back on the distributor. The car wouldnt fire and I had to cut all the legs off again and try and find the correct spot for tdc.

If you look at this picture the red lines outline how the square end will fit when you dont redrill the key and leave it as it comes and try to get it to 15 degrees before tdc. and even when it hits the water pipe its only at like 0 degrees before tdc. that is why you need to bend the water pipe down to get the distributor to turn downwards enough to set it at 15 degrees before tdc.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/sinnedone/100_2089c.jpg

[shepherd79]

you got the point there. i forgot about that pipe. I guess i will have to figure out how to get around it.

[A20A1]

remove the pipe maybe? and tap in a 90* elbow aluminum fitting?

replace the AN part with a barbed end and then run the coolant hose to that?


I remember Justins turbo head had an aluminum cap closng up that pipe hole so maybe there are threads in there already to use.

[EricW]

Eric
Is this the way you are mounting it? and did you redrill the key at all?
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/100_2089c.jpg
i f you did not re-drill the key I don't think that is top dead center. That is the way I had set mine up too when I had the legs welded back on the distributor. The car wouldn't fire and I had to cut all the legs off again and try and find the correct spot for tdc.
If you look at this picture the red lines outline how the square end will fit when you don't re-drill the key and leave it as it comes and try to get it to 15 degrees before tdc. and even when it hits the water pipe its only at like 0 degrees before tdc. that is why you need to bend the water pipe down to get the distributor to turn downwards enough to set it at 15 degrees before tdc.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/sinnedone/100_2089c.jpg

I didn't re-drill key. My way around that is the shaft between the cam and the 4g distributor. The slots in the end of the shaft are not at the same place the slots in the end of the cam are. This should work since the head was at TDC and then i positioned the distributor at the TDC and kept it there then placed it where it thought it would fit best and used the paint on the end of the distributor key to mark where I need to cut into the end of the shaft. This allowed me to have the distributor at TDC where it is positioned.

I will post a pic later after i get out of class to show you what I did and so it is easier for others to see.

[guaynabo89]

oh ok

so you used the shaft to do the same as redrilling the distributor key. yeah I was just worried about it since I had to pay for the work twice and didnr want that to happen to you too.

[EricW]

To help clarify how i got around re-drilling the key here is a pic.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/ericrw165/OBD1%20swap/CamKey.jpg

The shaft that goes between the cam and the distributor has a key at one end and a slot at the other end, where the distributor key fits. The red line represents the the direction that the slot in the end of the cam. The blue line represents the slot in the end of the shaft where the distributor key fits.

[military mase]

What's the deal with the vss issue. I know it was talked about for a brief second but what was the fix on it.i can't remember where i saw it. I need to find this out for my tuner who is helping me out while i'm gone

[guaynabo89]

What's the deal with the vss issue. I know it was talked about for a brief second but what was the fix on it.i can't remember where i saw it. I need to find this out for my tuner who is helping me out while i'm gone


I made a post about it with pictures i think it was in the other ecm options thread. somewhere in the middle of the pages I think its in.

basicly it was the 6k resitor wired in to the speed pulser output of the gauge cluster and a zerener diode to keep it from interffering with the speed pulser to the cruise contorl.

[military mase]

Just to make sure this is only if you want to keep your cruise control or do you have to do this reguardless. I took my cruise control out. I'll check the other thread too to just read up on it.

[shepherd79]

I started on my 4G distributor project. Actually i found the way to keep the key from redrilling.
it requires of adding matterial to the distributor legs. I actually moved distributor coutterclockwise and fliped the key 180 deg.
I still have to deal with thermostart housing, but the way it looks i just have to do minor grinding on the distributor itself. It won't be as much as the other guys did.
I will post the pictures after i get it mounted.

[snoopyloopy]

yes, pix please. because i've got this notion to go obd-1 presently.

[military mase]

Ok guaynabo i found the thread and the site you refered to. Looks preety easy to do. Thx for the info. I'll pass it on to my tuner. It just sucks not being there to see how the progress in going but the guy who is doing my car i've helped him in the shop many time so i know he's keeping my baby safe

[AccordEpicenter]

hey you guys, im putting the po6 ecu into my accord, everything looks good except D9 (alternator F wht/red, alternator charging signal), A16 (alt C alternator wht/grn) and pin D10 (eld electronic load detector in put green/black).

Anybody have any info with what to do with them? Do we need to run extra wires to the alternator?

Edit: We also have to run a wire from the dizzy to pin A21 ICM ignition control module? It looks like it connects to the ignitor on an obd1 dizzy...

[gfrg88]

hey you guys, im putting the po6 ecu into my accord, everything looks good except D9 (alternator F wht/red, alternator charging signal), A16 (alt C alternator wht/grn) and pin D10 (eld electronic load detector in put green/black).
Anybody have any info with what to do with them? Do we need to run extra wires to the alternator?

your just gonna plug it into the accord ecu harness?? what car is that from :/

[AccordEpicenter]

re wired to obd1 plugs on the stock harness. Its a 95 civic DX ecu, 5 speed. Need to add 3 wires to the dizzy and the motor should run at this point. I just dont wanna have a CEL over the homo alternator

[shepherd79]

ok here is my project.
My goal is stay away from redrilling the key and simple bolt on. without modifying the thermostat housing.
I knew from the start that i will have to do some soldering but it shouldn't be a problem.
anyway, this is what i got so far.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g5.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g5.jpg)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g4.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g4.jpg)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g3.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g3.jpg)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g2.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g2.jpg)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g1.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g1.jpg)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g.jpg)

After i finish the welds and make everything work, i may sell this distributor.

[shepherd79]

oh i forgot to mention.
I found a cheaper aluminum soldering rods than alumaloy.

[A20A1]

where did you find the rods? are they as strong?

[shepherd79]

here are the specs for the rods. http://www.jwharris.com/images/pdf2/52.pdf
this is the main website. http://www.jwharris.com/
i spent half a day on this website learning and searching.

after that i went to welding supply (https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/browsecatalogs.pl).
type welco in search engine. scroll down till you see welco 52.

as far as i can see, it has the same melting point as many other products on the market, and it is strong.

[gfrg88]

ok here is my project.
My goal is stay away from redrilling the key and simple bolt on. without modifying the thermostat housing.
I knew from the start that i will have to do some soldering but it shouldn't be a problem.
anyway, this is what i got so far.
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g5.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g5.jpg)
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g4.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g4.jpg)
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g3.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g3.jpg)
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g2.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g2.jpg)
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g1.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g1.jpg)
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g.jpg (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/shepherd79/4g.jpg)
After i finish the welds and make everything work, i may sell this distributor.

i will buy as soon as youre done :deal:

[guaynabo89]

Actually i found the way to keep the key from redrilling.
I actually moved distributor coutterclockwise and fliped the key 180 deg.
I still have to deal with thermostart housing, but the way it looks i just have to do minor grinding on the distributor itself. It won't be as much as the other guys did.



I too did this but could not get the timing on because the distributor body hit the thermostat housing and the distributor still needed to be rotated more counterclockwise for the engine to stay on.

When I modified the distributor to fit my engine I actually did all the work on the car itself so I could actually see if the car turned on and where the timing was etc. That helped out alot as far as trial and error.

[shepherd79]

so even with distributor in that position, you were still way off on timing?
it is not done in the picture, it will have even more rotation side to side. I checked with thermostat housing and i have more than enough room to rotate towards thermostat housing.

[guaynabo89]

yeah

When I did it I took the lower and the thermostat legs completely off the distributor. I kept the third leg that faces toward the radiator on. I used a pair of vise grips to hold it on the cylinder head using that one tab. The distributor was rotated all the way and sat on the thermostat housing and I think I might have had like 0 degrees of timing. maybe you will have better results.

[shepherd79]

i don't understand how you could have 0deg of timing.
did you flip the key?
4G accords have 15 deg BTDC. so it should be the same when it comes to adjusting.
I haven't done anything lately, it is been cold outside.

[guaynabo89]

yeah I had fliped the key 180 degrees whe I did it. It would sputter when mounted that way and the timing was way off.

[shepherd79]

well i am going to try it and see what it does.
I have two more spare distributors sitting next to me, and i am going to get another one and OBD0 teg one.

[race12001]

dang i want in on this if you can perfect it i will send you several distibutors for you to work on you can have the rest long as i get one just let me know

[SQ is the SQUAD]

i was in the basement playing with other things and i cam accross this idea on how to mount this distributor. i removed the cam cap part that the distributor actually mounts to and decided to modify that to fiit the 93 accord distributor.

http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/8637/Picture052.jpg

cut the legs off in the chop saw

http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/298/Picture057.jpg

then i cut the new legs that i am going to weld onto the original pice. the new legs i cut off of a cam cap cover from a d16z6 and a b18a1. but the b18a1 one was kind short so ill get another d16z6 one when i go to the junkyard

d16z6 cam cap
http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/2310/Picture058.jpg

leg i cut off
http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/3989/Picture060.jpg

thye parts where kinda gritty so i clean them with my bench grinder wire brusd. see the difference. the cleaness is neccessary for a good weld
http://img457.imageshack.us/img457/5870/Picture061.jpg

i also wire brused the cam cam i have to modify to make the fit
http://img457.imageshack.us/img457/9492/Picture062.jpg

cam cap nice and prepped for welding
http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/5747/Picture064.jpg

this is a pic of the cam cap sitting on top of the distributor as if they where on the head. the left on is the d16z6 leg, the right is the b18a leg which i am not gonig to use, ill get another d16z6 leg. as you can see, once i weld it up it will fit pretty nice
http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/9771/Picture065.jpg

the bottom distributor leg will be bolted on the original head hole. as you can see here it lined up perfectly. you can see where i modded the distributor case to fit around the waterneck screw
http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/6866/Picture055.jpg

[EricW]

I guess your planning on redrilling the cam key to get the timming set right?

[A20A1]

Nice idea SQ :)

[guaynabo89]

hey you guys, im putting the po6 ecu into my accord, everything looks good except D9 (alternator F wht/red, alternator charging signal), A16 (alt C alternator wht/grn) and pin D10 (eld electronic load detector in put green/black).
Anybody have any info with what to do with them? Do we need to run extra wires to the alternator?
Edit: We also have to run a wire from the dizzy to pin A21 ICM ignition control module? It looks like it connects to the ignitor on an obd1 dizzy...


the alt cables can just be splice into and run to your ecu if they dont already. You can tap into them whereever you like. For the eld sensor you might not need it. I ran a p75 without one and never had a cel while Ericw is running the same ecu and he is getting a eld cel. For the eld I just spliced into the alt wires at the fuebox under the hood and mounte it there and ran the exrta wire to the ecu. Or I used an exixting solenoid wire I cant remember.

[shepherd79]

I thought about that, but you still have to drill the key.
and it would require same amount of work if you just cut the legs off the distributor and re-weld them instead.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

yeah, i will he how this works out. ill have to re-read the thread cuz i still dont understand this redrill the key thing. i just thought it would look neater to cut and weld the cam cap. plus the angle that legs where it was easier to cut the cam cap with my chop saw

[TWOLOUDNPROUD]

So is there any updates on this thread beside guaynabo89 do it to his Accord?

[guaynabo89]

ericw is up and running using crome I think.

plus if anyone has any questions between me and eric we should be able to help as far as wiring etc. the mounting is another story

[military mase]

I'm in the process of the swap too. The dizzy was easy in my opinion but it's the wiring and the wiring to the ECU were taking our time on.

[MessyHonda]

I'm in the process of the swap too. The dizzy was easy in my opinion but it's the wiring and the wiring to the ECU were taking our time on.


brian what dizzy did you get?

[EricW]

ericw is up and running using crome I think.
plus if anyone has any questions between me and eric we should be able to help as far as wiring etc. the mounting is another story

Yes I running a chipped P75 using an ostrich and Crome. I also have a chip burner if anyone needs a bin burned. I will be using a moates 2timer(allows you to run 2 tunes on one chip) as a 2 step once i get the car tuned to my liking.

I have most of the wiring(for the 86-87 to p75) in a spreadsheet that i want to add a few more details to if any one wants/needs it.

[military mase]

I'm running a 4th gen accord dizzy. I'm not doing the wiring work cuz i'm busy doing my B20vtec swap.

[SephirXV]

This thread has gone without a post for a few moths, so I decided to post the progress I have made and pose a few questions for the steps I need to proceed. First, the specs. I've an 89 hatchback LXi, the dizzy I bought fits the F22B2 motor (external coil, TD-59U is the part # I think), and I have a P75 ECU I've prepped to chip and a programmer to tune it with.

I've gotten the dizzy mounted to the block, without modifying anything but the dizzy. I got the idea from Swap_File (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=605277&postcount=237), who used JB weld (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=605277&postcount=239), which is great stuff by the way. If you look at his posts earlier in the tread, the pictures give you the idea.

I'm a strong believer in assembly as opposed to welding, mostly because it is precise and adjustable, so I found the range of mounting which could hold the dizzy without cutting off any of the legs (I did have to cut the little stub that the wire clip mounted to), which was probably 15-25° wide, and found the position of the thermostat housing in that position remained inside that inner wall in the dizzy, so I had a machinist friend mill out the outer wall, and I taped and JB welded the top of the 'new wall' to reseal the dizzy. The result is that the dizzy sits with the spark plug sockets pointed up and forward of the car, probably a 30° angle from vertical. The angle really never mattered to me so long as it allowed adjustment, redrilling the key is easy so long as I can find the required angle.

Next, to hold the thing in place. My alignment of the dizzy placed my legs several inches from the mount holes, so I followed Robs89LXi's (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=600579&postcount=223) idea and made brackets which are attached to the back of the mount holes in the block and provide a hole for bolts to pass through the dizzy legs and into the brackets. So far my brackets are protos made from sheet metal, bolts, washers, and nuts; and I haven't made one for the bottom, but I almost don't need it. Once I get the adjustability right, I'll have my friend fab something less flexible then sheet metal. But they work great, and that's the idea.

I think I've worked out the method to determine the appropriate position that the key should be drilled to, so I'm ready to move onto the electrical issues.


My first question involves the coil. This thread is so long now and keeps getting off track and covering many 'sub-topics', but I don't recall seeing anything concerning whether this dizzy will work properly with my original coil. I checked our shop manual against the 94 accord manual (which supports this dizzy), and compared the tests for the external coils. They seem to have vastly different resistance ranges, {primary 0.6-0.8, secondary 14-22k (new); primary 1215-1485, secondary 11074-11526 (old)}. Anyone help me from having to find this one out the hard way?

I know that the wiring harness has been discussed, but I honestly got lost, and I've done a fair amount of wiring before. I think I'll do some more research between the various shop manuals involved and my existing harness. If I don't get any further, I'll let you all know. Also, I have a couple of items that I would be willing to purchase at reasonable prices if any of you happen to have some lying around. I need the connectors off of a 3G distributor, the engine bay connectors from a 4G accord for my new dizzy's connectors to fit into, and the connectors that a P75 ECU should plug into under the seat. I'm not worried about the wire colors, so long as there is enough wire to splice with.


So anyway, the summary of the information in this guide useful to those of you considering this mod is that the mod can be done without making any of the devices useless in their original applications. In case none of you noticed from my mounting method and the electrical connectors I'm looking for, I try to make any modification such that I can always quickly swap back to original. Some may shy away from putting a dizzy with part of it's outer wall cut away and resealed into their car, but it is still perfectly functional in a 4G accord. My original dizzy will sit on a shelf in case I ever have need of it again. My original wiring harness will not be modified in any way that will limit it's original functionality, I'll make short conversion harnesses to attach new equipment.

[EricW]

Just buy an OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness to connect the ecu and repin it. It will only take you an hour or two to do it once you have the pinout laid out on paper or a spread sheet to look at. http://www.boomslang.us/obd0to1.htm

Glad to see someone else tackling the obd1 swap.

[SephirXV]

I'm trying to work out a complete conversion harness, gathering data from several incomplete or conflicting sources, including this site and PGMFI.org. If those of you in the know would care to look it over and correct any mistakes or add any information they are sure of, I would appreciate it.

The parts in yellow are what are obviously missing or questionable, but the whole thing should be subject to doubt. The harness is supposed to be for any EFI Accord of our generation, to accomodate a TD-59U dizzy (external coil) and a P75 ECU.

Link (http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pSaMJlc2yNMohuD4Ii3OfEA)

[EricW]

If I had the time to compare it to my spreadsheet I would, since I know all mine are correct. Since they where all checked after the car was running for a few months and then the spread sheet was created.

[EricW]

Heres the spread sheet.
http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pd4NRtYLNgMH4uXgB3f_vAQ

[MessyHonda]

my car is alive thanks to guaynabo89 and Eric...they are lifesavers.


this swap was preaty easy if you have all the stuff you need. My friend that helped me might do a write up.

[rudeludenotmean]

And i had nothing to do with it? ahaha ... damnit!

[guaynabo89]

the man doing the footwork huh?

lol

I spoke to you yesterday right?

[2drSE-i]

i just wish i had gotten ahold of guaynabos OBD-1 swap instead of his header....it would have been cheaper and i wouldnt have to fab up my own distributor... haha

[rudeludenotmean]

indeed ... suttle info found through-out the post FINALLY clued me in onto the problem. im doing a "writeup" style thing as we speak.

[rudeludenotmean]

AIM .... go now guynabo guy .. anthonysnewsn

[MessyHonda]

And i had nothing to do with it? ahaha ... damnit!




my bad....this guy^^^^^ helped me swap it in...and got it running in less than 8 hours....

[mushroom_toy]

I wish I had my ecu already....arrrrr....i wish I could find a damn p75!

[2drSE-i]

so what ECU are you runnin jesse?

edit: disregard that question, i looked in the other thread and saw a stock pr4.

[2drSE-i]

I wish I had my ecu already....arrrrr....i wish I could find a damn p75!

did you check www.xenocron.com ? they have already chipped ecus for sale, $150

[MessyHonda]

so what ECU are you runnin jesse?

PR4 teggy style yo!



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/Messybone/LX-i/DSCF3103.jpg

[2drSE-i]

so if i may ask why the pr4? or was it just readily available. I guess it doesnt relaly matter since it will be tuned either way.

[MessyHonda]

so if i may ask why the pr4? or was it just readily available. I guess it doesnt relaly matter since it will be tuned either way.



it was the only stock ecu we had on our hands. it rides fine...just sucks up more gas..and its running a bit rich...since my exhaust started to pop again... and we were not sure what map the ecu i got my justin had...since i bet it was tuned for turbo and 450cc injectors

[2drSE-i]

Youll love crome man. Your tuner shouldnt have any issues at all. Auto-correct ftw!

[rudeludenotmean]

actually ... we had an abundance of ECU's at our disposal, just none with a quick J1 disconnect, unlike the PR4 (the two purple wires) :) .. Car will be tuned on CROME soon .. just gotta figure out when he has the time to come back out here.


my bad....this guy^^^^^ helped me swap it in...and got it running in less than 8 hours....

SHoulda been running within 3 hours ... could have ... EASILY. the wiring was PPERFECT! .. grrr

[EricW]

Good to hear its running, I want a copy of that crome map for the A20 once/if its dyno tuned so my ignition values will be closer to what they should be instead of what i'm running now which is the timing values from the P75 with timing pulled in the boost portion of the map.

[rudeludenotmean]

ah... the timing maps aren't gonna be too far off what you have, and i cant say that its gonna be anything near what it *should* be after the tune.

I was planning on running F22 maps as a base, but we shall see what i end up creating.