jdm b20a turbo

[Tref_LXI]

Hey guys i sold my crx because i dont need two cars and i like the accord a lot more. Anyway i am going to be swapping in a jdm b20a in the future and would like to put a turbo running 8 psi on it, so i came up with the hp i would achieve 243hp/212 torque with mods so i could probably hit 280hp/252 torque or so.
Anyway i wanted to know if anyone has done this to their motor and how many miles do these motors come with? I want one with <-50k on it.
Also can i get a list of the stuff i would have to buy to turbo it?
Dont tell me to buy a new car cause i know this swap will be more than my car is even worth, but i have fixed everything and painted the car all nice so that shows that i still care about it.

[shepherd79]

man, do the search. there is sooooo much info on B20 engines, and turbo setups.
Just do the search.

[RobT5580]

You will need a lot of stuff for the turbo setup so why bother for a low boost setup. You might as well build up the bottom end and run more boost cause the amount you spend for the low boost setup you might as well spend a bit more. I am doing a B20A Turbo and have 2 motors one fully built up for boost and misc things like Turbo, Intercooler, and misc items and trust me it adds up and i got real good deals on most of my stuff. You can expect to spend 500-1000 for the turbo manifold alone.

[Tref_LXI]

reason i only want 8 psi is because my engine wont blow up as easy and i dont need 400 hp. With around 260-280 hp to the wheels i can still use it for a daily driver and get decent gas mileage from it. I plan to spend about 5k dollars to obtain all my stuff including engine. Not to act like I'm a smartass, but i do have a high iq and can learn things very easy and remember them. I have never done this before, but I will teach myself how this all works.

I'm also doing this cause i love the sound of a turbo going at full throttle!
:super:

[mykwikcoupe]

my b20a turbo setup is one that was modified by tom coleman at LUDESPEED.com. Check it out. He doesnt do honda turbos anymore but its a total list. His kit need the header manifold modified as the b20a and the B20a5 sit different directions other than that its a relatively easy install so i hear. I am shooting for 280 at the wheels also but I am rebiulding the whoole engine. 280 is a goal but its also low in my esyes with the amount of time and cahs invested already. I am up to 3 grand and I havent started rebiulding yet thats all parts

[Tref_LXI]

280 to the wheels is very good for our cars. You know that 2003 dodge srt-4? It weighs 2900 pounds (140 hp engine with turbo at 8 psi gives it 215 hp and runs 0-60 in 5.7 and 1/4 in 14.2. Your car must run 0-60 in 4.8-5.0 and 1/4 in 13 or so i think.

[‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›]

Originally posted by Tref_LXI
280 to the wheels is very good for our cars. You know that 2003 dodge srt-4? It weighs 2900 pounds (140 hp engine with turbo at 8 psi gives it 215 hp and runs 0-60 in 5.7 and 1/4 in 14.2. Your car must run 0-60 in 4.8-5.0 and 1/4 in 13 or so i think.

A whooping 75hp..Crap!

[Tref_LXI]

well that 75 hp makes the dodge a pretty fast car

[RobT5580]

I think the HP you are looking for is a bit high for 8psi but the dyno will prove that. I just know from my experience their are a lot of small things that add up quick and i have been working on accords since 1998 or so. I mean you can save a bit by doing a low boost setup but i dont think the gains are worth all that work. but good luck and we will see how the B20A's do as people finish.

[Tref_LXI]

well take your current horsepower and multiply it by 1.52 that will give you 8 psi at sea level. I dont want 400 hp i think 260-280 to the wheels is great actually, since I want speed and pretty good gas mileage.

[Sean]

for those types of numbers a a20a would work and save the hassles. plus the single exhuast vavle works better with a turbo.
save the money freshen a a20a talk to me about efi.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I've been talking with this guy about buying a 5 speed JDM B20a. I would want to turbo it, but not right away. I also want to have it with carbs instead of with fuel injected. Is this going to hurt the performance of the motor if I want to go with carbs instead? One of the main reasons I want to stick with carbs is b/c I would have to convert everything to EFI. And I don't know how hard that is so I kinda just thought I could keep carbs and maybe get like dual 40's or 45's. I want at 300+hp. What I plan to do is to buy the motor and keep driving my a20a1 and then eventually sell everything or maybe the a20a1 as a complete motor to someone that wants an almost fully modified motor. Now I don't know squat about engine swaps and have been reading for 3 hours straight and I just need some answers. Sean I know you would give me straight answers and tell me what I need to do or what I need to do. Thanks in advance.

[IWLSF]

You'll average around 10-12 hp per psi. Looking at a 160 hp motor stock, boost 8 lbs, the least you'll gain is around 80 hp. That's 240. To the wheels. With drivetrain loss and normal motor draw, you'll be looking close to 205 hp to the wheels. That's H22 territory, meaning you should run around a high 13, 14 flat with gutted body. Double the boost, and you'll be making your planned 280 hp to the wheels. You wont be able to hit 320 to the crank off 8 lbs of boost, regardless. That is double the hp the motor makes, and you wont see 100% more power with only 8 lbs. You will need to run around 13-16 lbs of boost to make that type of horsepower, and unless that motor is built up, you wont be able to run that boost for too long.

This is all coming from firsthand experience as well, a H22/turbo, dyno proven hatch, and a GSR/turbo hatch. H22 turbo on 5 lbs makes 258hp to the crank, and 223hp to the wheels. And that's on 5 lbs of boost, I/H/E, ignition, gears. I'm not going to get into an argument here, first of all, get the motor. It's all talk until you get it. Every person on this site is talking about their FUTURE MOD of B16 or B20 turbo. Blah blah, only 5% of the people on here will actually do it, I guarantee it. Everyone has their little dream, but once you get in the position of really considering it, then you find out who talks a bunch of mess, and who's got the balls. The swap's never go as easy as they look, until you reach the point of doing dozens of them. All I'm saying is, get the motor, boost it, dyno tune it, then we can argue lol.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Well I already bid on some Type R B20a pistons so I'm serious. And if that guy has one 5 speed motor left I will take a loan out but I plan to have the motor by the end of July or middle of August. I think I will do the EFI conversion. Sorry carb gods but I just don't want this beauty to run rough.

[‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›]

Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
Well I already bid on some Type R B20a pistons so I'm serious. And if that guy has one 5 speed motor left I will take a loan out but I plan to have the motor by the end of July or middle of August. I think I will do the EFI conversion. Sorry carb gods but I just don't want this beauty to run rough.

You mean Type-R pistons..

[IWLSF]

LoL, Mike Mike...that was referring to the thread starter, the one who asked all the questions. I wasnt talking to you lol.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Oh ok and yeah I know they're Type R pistons (for the b16/18/20

[‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›]

Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
Oh ok and yeah I know they're Type R pistons (for the b16/18/20

ITR pistons come from the B18c5
CTR pistons come from the B16b.. which ones did u bid on?

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Here's what I'm bidding on.

You are bidding on a set of 4 BRAND NEW Integra Type R Domed High Compression (10.6:1) Pistons w/ wrist pins, 25 OVERBORE. Pistons comes in factory HONDA BOX w/ all factory labels and part numbers. Great addition to any b16/18/20 motor Si/SiR’s, LS-VTECS/CRV-VTECS, LS’S, ITR replacement, & GsR’s. True RACE READY PISTONS. Can’t beat REAL QUALITY OEM HONDA ITR PARTS! Great ALL MOTOR addition for all B Series Motors to get that DISPLACEMENT UP...THERE IS NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT! Super Power increases, especially when used in conjunction w/ high performance cams/ECU'S that will feed more AIR/FUEL to these monsters! Pistons bolt right up to ls/crv rods w/ the ITR wrist pins which come w/ the pistons in this auction . When using in LS/CRV motors, LS/CRV Rods must be used due to the longer stroke. AWESOME CHOICE FOR ALL MOTOR SETUPS WHICH WANT TO USE A FULL ITR/HONDA SETUP…IDEAL WHEN USED W/ ITR MANIFOLD, HEAD, CAMS, AND ITR ECU. All ITR mods are available for order, simply email us with any requests…we carry full OEM HONDA/ITR/AFTERMARKET, ALL MOTOR MONSTER SETUPS, email us at [email protected], OR CALL VINCE @ 267-278-2348 w/ any questions. So, bottom line, if you are looking for that extra boost out of your B-Series Motor, or looking to create an ls/vtec powerhouse, these pistons are the way to go. Why pay up to $1000 more for aftermarket pistons, when you can have the reliability and quality of REAL TYPE R HONDA PARTS!! OVERBORED HIGH COMPRESSION, LOW FRICTION PISTON HEAD CONSTRUCTION PROVES FOR SAFEST AND MOST POWERFUL SETUP…SPECIAL INTRODUCTORY PRICE OF $225.00 (FOR BUY IT NOW). Rings are available to add on if necessary at end of auction. You may contact us at [email protected] w/ any questions on applications or parts. You may also call us at the above number w/ any questions (call for quickest response). Good luck, and DON’T PASS UP THIS INTRODUCTORY DEAL ON REAL OEM TYPE R PARTS

[Tref_LXI]

well seeing as how a year ago i didnt even know what a flywheel was, and now i have taken the engine out 3 times, 2 times by myself and once for the first time with a neighbor, I think i can handle putting together the engine. I have plenty of money and i dont have to pay college or housing for at least 4 more years = mad cash. I would build up the engine with turbo on it for probably around 2 months and then drop it in in 2-3 days of working on the ecu and driveaxles. My hp number is with 40 extra hp from mods like injectors, cold air intake, light pulleys, cam regrind, other stuff to put out around 190-200 hp with the b20a, then put a turbo on it and hit 288- 304hp so i am looking to hit around 260-280 to the wheels after its all done.
Yes i know a lot of people have their dreams and i may not even do this, but it sounds like it would be a lot of fun to build up and then drive it after.

[‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›]

Originally posted by Tref_LXI
well seeing as how a year ago i didnt even know what a flywheel was, and now i have taken the engine out 3 times, 2 times by myself and once for the first time with a neighbor, I think i can handle putting together the engine. I have plenty of money and i dont have to pay college or housing for at least 4 more years = mad cash. I would build up the engine with turbo on it for probably around 2 months and then drop it in in 2-3 days of working on the ecu and driveaxles. My hp number is with 40 extra hp from mods like injectors, cold air intake, light pulleys, cam regrind, other stuff to put out around 190-200 hp with the b20a, then put a turbo on it and hit 288- 304hp so i am looking to hit around 260-280 to the wheels after its all done.
Yes i know a lot of people have their dreams and i may not even do this, but it sounds like it would be a lot of fun to build up and then drive it after.

You are not being very realistic.. You are headed for a major let down.. 300hp+ wont be reach with that set.. You should set your goal to be a steady 250..

[Tref_LXI]

why would it not be 304? 160 + 40 from mods x 1.52 = 304 hp so 260-280 to the wheels is realistic. I thought ‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^› and 89mikeaccordlx were selling their cars. What made you want to keep them after trying to sell them?