lowered car

[stizle]

Aight fellas need some help. My car is lowered with coilovers im not really sure what kind but they are coilovers. Every little bump i hit my car is jumpin up and down like mad and i bottom out on almost anything. I have a kit on the way and its not gonna last if i keep bottomin out like this!! I need struts but what kind do i get ?? i need to stop the car from bouncin. point me in the right direction.

[anchovies]

hate to be a dick, but here u go
http://3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17722

[stizle]

Well damn anyway i should go with the koni's yes or no?

[goldyaccord]

Yes you indeed do need Koni's. while your at it, shorten the front struts to help with keeping the strut in working area. This is from another thread called *struts mainly* I suggest you read all the stickies in the suspension. it will help you understand about everything.

quote:
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Originally posted by goldyaccord
Jim,

I too will be interested in what you find out.

I'm thinking that if bilstein is cheaper to revalve all fours to match up with whatever spring rate I plan to use, I then would want to order them instead of Koni's. Problem is, I think I'd want to use Koni's due to the fact they can shorten the body and rod.

If bilstien is able to do that for a overall better price than Koni then.. you know where i'd go.
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I know a trick to get 1/2" to 1" shorter front bodies for next to ZERO! cost, but you have to be willing to do some work. Now the catch is this. Let's say you like you car lower 2.5" lower on coilovers. Well what I'm talking about, if you didn't touch the adjustment on the front springs would drop the front lowering to 3" to 3.5". But to get the effective shorter front strut bodies, you would actually raise the front coilover back up to compinsate for the 1/2" or 1" front drop that my mod would give you theirby staying at a 2.5" drop, doing so increase's your front strut rod travel 1/2" to 1".

You can do one of 2 things, each mod give's you 1/2" extra front drop over normal.

1. Grind down the top of the front pinch forks 1/2" lower. Your struts rest on the top of the pinch forks. By grinding them down to the top of the pinch fork bolt, you still have plenty of mental to help things like normal, buy you gain 1/2" more lowering in the front or 1/2" more travel if you compinsate by adjusting your coilovers back up.

2. Remove or grind off the cast on brakes hangers and stop that are part of every front 3g strut. Your struts naturally get fatter just past these parts, that will become your new stop or where the strut rests it's weight inside the pinch fork. Net gain, 1/2"
BTW!, you can easily fab new brake hangers by going to honda and purchasing 92-95 civic front brake hanger collers. On that car the brake hangers are a seperate part. You'd want to cut it and squeez it down to snug onto your struts and have a shop spot wheld(ms) it into place.

PS, I will add that I felt that the revalved Bilsteins did give me a sense that their was more thought behind how they were designed. It was like their was more science behind the valving performance or something. It gave me a extra sense that I'd really spent my money well, not a easy thing to come by sometimes. I'm just saying that I have reason to believe that revalved Bilsteins might feel better than revalved Koni's that's all. Just a hunch, I could be wrong.