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mykwikcoupe
06-07-2003, 11:02 PM
okay, so I am currenly working on 2 swaps rigt now.

1 N/A carbed. Should I even tae the time to rebuild the B20A. It should have 50k or less right. This engine most likely will never see muh over 4k rpm and moslty 3k rpm. will probably go with 388 dgv if i can find all thecomponents neccessary to swap.

2 EFI turbo. currenly have garret T25 turbo, hks super sequential BOV, larger fuel pump, free flowing cat coffee can muffler, tial 3mm wastgate, all the goodies. Q's are as follows

1 should I trash th T5 anduse either T3/T4 hybrid or T3. I belive there to be room enough.

2 I have acess to buy either a JG TB or a custom built one by GUDE. Should I use either or just stick with the 89 accord TB?

3 What the highest com. ratio I can run on 92 octane and have a livable engine? I say thisbecause rathr than gowith low comp istons maybe jusr reusing the ones in the B2A and going with 8-10 psi rather than ITR pistons and using 15-18 psi.

4 depending on which setup what size injectors should I use?

5 anyone have all the parts to do a 5 speed swap minus tranny lying around, No. How about the stuff to do the sei brake swap? still no huh, how about some pics of rims on a monterey greenmetallic paint coupe? I have no clue what rims to use. I think the green is kinda light so am tinting the windows like 10% or maybe 5%. i would like to do that smoke mirror tint but i think it will look kinda dumb on a green car I was hoping a white rims

Mike's89AccordLX
06-07-2003, 11:05 PM
I would take the time to rebuild it b/c when do you think you will have time to rip your motor back apart and have it bored out or have the head P&P?

RobT5580
06-08-2003, 08:59 AM
I would always recommend a rebuild when using a turbo even thought the two JDM motors i have purchased were both in extreamly good condition. But if your gonna do a N/A carbed i would possibly think about just dropping it in maybe do so basics like head gasket waterpump etc. And for your other questions regaurding the turbo i wouldnt use those pistons you should drop it down a tad and do it right so you save yourself some trouble later. I mean you spent good money for the turbo setup why not do higher boost and get the performance you really want by spending the little extra on prepping the block.

toastyghost
06-08-2003, 11:47 AM
1. I would do T3/T4 hybrid because it spools quickly, especially if you're not trying to run huge boost.

2. I don't know about the TB specifically, but I have heard complaints about Gude's work. The stock TB will definitely be more restrictive, so go with the JG. What I was planning on doing was re-drilling a B-series aftermarket intake manifold and using a 70mm Spoon TB, which you can get at jdmhondaparts.com for $500. There are lots of other performance TB's for B-series that will fit B20A with an aftermarket manifold, and most are cheaper than the Spoon one though not bored as big.

3. I don't know how much boost you could run on stock pistons, but it doesn't matter because all the other work is a waste. I think it is Wiseco ITR pistons that are 9.0:1 comp and can get a set with rings and wristpins for $385. I forget where, though.

4. For low boost (which is dumb but it's your car) I would say probably 320cc and for higher boost 550cc tops. RCE's, of course :)

5. I don't know about the 5 speed swap kit, someone was selling one a month or two ago but it's gone now. You can get all that stuff from a junkyard for a couple hundred tops. As for rims, it'll probably look ok with whatever you decide to put on it assuming the rims themselves are not hideous. If you want a semi-stock kind of look though, I have some 15's off an Escort GT for sale that no one seems to be interested in. I painted one chrome and it's very reflective but not mirror finish like plated rims, and I also wet sanded and polished another one and it looks very similar, not quite as glossy as the chrome one. I haven't done anything to the other two. I'm asking $200 as-is (1 chrome, 1 polished, 2 stock), or $300 for all of them polished or chrome. Here is a link to my thread in the Market Place.. http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14195

mykwikcoupe
08-24-2003, 08:48 PM
This is more for rob or anyone else that really knows there turbos or knows alot about hondas. For my B20a turbo kit I got a ta34 from ludespeed. Well in recent times i found out that is peaks around 14 psi and although thats around what i was planning on running with boost does anyone know a little more about this turbo. It cam from a 84-88 dodge daytona turbo.

Is is ball bearing or sleeve ?

Whats it efficentcy?

Because it is made by Garrett can I swap in the To3 ball bearing midsection(dont have my notes in front of me so I dont know what they call it) and make it similar to the garett GT series?

Does it have the same mounting flange as the T03 so I could use either without mods to the current kit I have. I am fastly approching the max costs for a play toy. So much for the 3000 turbo add on the B16's have

Any other info would be nice. I am talking with Ludespeed to find out if the guts are stock or if he changed anything., Thanks Mike

RobT5580
08-25-2003, 05:20 AM
Im not familiar with that but you could call Tom at Ludespeed im sure he will be open to help you out. I just spoke to him last week so just give him a call but you will probably have to leave him a message and he will call you back. He uses a bunch of different flanges so i dont know what else would fit on your flange.

PhydeauX
08-25-2003, 05:23 AM
You can find a bit of info on it here. If it came from a dodge I wouldn't be surprised if it came with the standard dodge flange.

andy

mykwikcoupe
08-25-2003, 07:23 AM
Well Tom @ Ludespeed says that its got a T3 turbine with turbine A/R at .48 and compressor A/r at .42. I cant find the efficency anywhere but another question that I cant find is the TA34 a T3 turbine with T4 compressor like the T3/T4 is or is the TA34 a basic model #? Ive read reports saying that they ran the turbo up so 20 psi and that is has sleeve bearings so that answers one question but as far as the rest?? Thanks alot anyway. Mike

bobafett
08-25-2003, 08:01 AM
the guys at homemadeturbo.com are an excellent resource, but u have to register just to view the site, since its non profit, and the owner runs the site off his home computer lol..

Sean
08-25-2003, 03:33 PM
the efficency is pretty high on that old dodge turbo. its got a 2.5:1 pressure ratio at a minumum.

b20aTURBO
08-26-2003, 06:43 AM
you can actually email turbonetics and send them a picture of the turbo they will tell you everything you want to know about the turbo just go to there site and go to the tech and email them I talk to somone over the phone after I emailed the photo and they told me everything about it

mykwikcoupe
01-06-2004, 01:24 AM
Ok so Ive been talking back and forth to daryll at openloop motorsports now. He is figuring how much hell want for the rebuild and a few custom pieces I want for the engine.

My question is what color should I have the block and head done in. The car is monterey metallic green. Lowered on sprints with konis. I have a set of mille miglia 16s that are getting re-powdercoated a differnt color not yet desided. The interior is currently tan cloth but I am wanting to swap it out to black leather or sei dark gray. I want to have all the piping done is a anodized black chrome look. The turbo will most likely be cermachromed with the manifold and downpipe.

So should I have the engine and head cerma-chromed the same way the turbo and header will be. The cerma-chrome comes in a variety of color choices also.
http://www.performancecoatings.com/headercoatings.html
these guys are just down the road a few miles so the majority will go to them

Should I have it done in the black chrome look like the intake pipes and intercooler pipes. If I do this, I will most likely have the rims done in the black chrome also to keep a theme.

Man I cant wait to get this thing going. Ive stored these parts for over a year now with hopes and dreams. Its finally time to see the dream. hopefully sooner rather than later

Gregg86DX
01-06-2004, 01:48 PM
Personally, I kinda like the clean cast aluminum look, with colored highlights, but honestly, it's going to come down to personal preference. Depending on how much you will be driving it, you may want to consider maintenance. My experience with engine paints is they don't tend to last a long time.

What custom work are you planning to have Darryl do? My current thoughts on my b20a build is a high compression N/A build, targeting a reliable 175 HP. Get the bottom end freshened up and balanced, get some 10 or 11:1 pistons, get a valve job and maybe some mild porting, a bit larger cams, header, intake and some fuel management and I should be there.

Gregg

RobT5580
01-06-2004, 02:11 PM
I would just spray it a cast aluminum or like a semi chrome color like mike lee did on my block. Man im in the same boat as you except you have more stuff than i do but now that i finished the downpipe and manifold iv been all excited and i should be picking it up tomorow from getting thermal coated. I will post some pictures in a few days of the final product.

NXRacer
01-06-2004, 04:55 PM
i think the gray ice, satin fresh blast and satin cast iron are all good colors. My buddy painted his block a color realy similar to the cast iron and it looks really good. Those colors will go good with just about any accent color you choose too.

mykwikcoupe
01-06-2004, 07:08 PM
well the company offers a lifetime guarntee against any defects. The coatings contain no nickel so there is no worry about miscoloring. As far as what I have asked daryll to look into doing for me. He getting back to me with a final quote.

Rebuild bottom end with srp/je pistons and rods
shotpeen, deburr and polish crank, rods
have everything balanced to around 8k rpm
sleeve the block to accept turbo to max psi and a modest NO2 shot(probabaly wont use but its there if I need it)
Id like a mild overbore of 1-2mm
all the typical machine work-redack, line hone, etc
all retrofitting of JDM B16 intake. That is just simply beautiful
port match, bore/hone intake and head with flow tests to optimal flow
rebuild head with slight cc'ing or 1mm overbore valves (not sure if this is possible but I asked for him to check into it)

As far as parts, I told him I would supply most of them. I prefer honda parts. A company with as much R&D as honda and engines that live to 200k miles plus with little to no problems is a great test. The pistons and rods Id have replicated stock to keep the same compression but maybe larger bore as you read previously

anything you notice is out of place please let me know. i do mostly domestic overhauls. This is my first import rebuild. Ive read about 6k pages of info over the past few years. I dont plan on revving over say 7k at most. This isnt a vtech. I plan on starting with stock cams and see how that goes. Ill get adjustable gears for timing and tuning.

My other rebuild I have going is like yours greg. I am going stock A20a carbed intake with a weber kit. Ill go overbore and the same treatment to the botoom end. Nothing too elaborate. its for the wifeys daily driver. Id just like to see the same power through a carbed intake rather than a PGMFI setup. Im al limiting the machine work and parts to around 1000 on the second engine

Oh speaking od which, whats a good estimate for all this work. if it was your shop, how much would you charge for just the turbo engine work. I am planning on about 22-2800. Is this too much or too little

RobT5580
01-06-2004, 08:30 PM
Damn thats gonna cost a pretty penny. If your going to that extent IMO i would get some real rods just for the extra securty cause if a rod breaks your out of a block and all that machine work. Dont quote me on this but i double check with the prelude board and H23 rods do fit properly and there is a company that makes rods for the B20A5 but you will need B20A5 pistons also. And to add to that i would consider a cometic metal head gasket let me know on that cause im gonna buy probably 2 of them so maybe we can get a deal on them if we do it together.

Just my 2 cents since you seem to be going all the way.

b20aTURBO
01-14-2004, 07:24 PM
As far as the rods and pistons are concerned when I was researching my motor I talked with crower..arias..and a couple of other companies they assured me that most of the honda pistons and rods were similar and they could match them up if I sent them to them if i can remember correctly the prelude rods and pistons should fit just fine i would give these companies a call they will help you out

mykwikcoupe
01-14-2004, 10:08 PM
well well have to see how everything turns out. I dont plan on going cheap anywhere. I believe that i have only bought great products thus far (B20ATURBO thanks alot). Id like to be able to compete in a decent class when it gets done and if not then itll go the way the other projects do. DOWN THE ROAD!!!

I help a friend build a 69 mach 1. When it came time for the engine choice he chose a 351 and I wanted to see a nice 428,427, something like that so i asked for my part of the investment thus far and calmly walked away. It was OUR car but now its just HIS. It turned out nice but its still Plain and ot as spunky as it could be. Id at least go with cosworth intake or something

Sean
01-19-2004, 07:45 PM
well ive got a machine shop that i deal on a direct basis with IE and i pop in the shop and inspect work etc at any time unanouced. if you want that type of work done etc. thats done easily enough. as for the over bore. id think 2mm would be a bit extreme over 60 thousandths. and the stock sleeve being dry and all wont take that abuse. with a resleeve your risking cylinder wall intergrity. then your looking at darton wet sleeve like the MID seires. really just waste IMO. id first check the bore for wear then based on that id make a decision on pistons size. as for making custom pistons Diamond is minutes from my house. so handling that end is easy enough. and i can get your over sized valve done to. if you need help just email me.

[email protected]

id be more then glad to hook you up with my machinist. although youd have to pay shipping. 4 of the best head porters in the country live within 60 minutes of my house so yet again your getting first class treatment.

mykwikcoupe
01-19-2004, 08:55 PM
hey sean where are you at again. Id like to send the entire intake from the TB to the head to a shop for honing and match porting. Ive done my own on some of the older domestics but Im not sure if it actually did anything. Id like a flow test done with hard numbers. Im not too interested in getting every ounce of power out of this engine but wit the money invested id like to se a fair gain.

As far as the sleeving goes Im not too sure hwat to do there. I know I want a cleanup bore and I figured that by overizing the bor it may help the stroke ratio problem a little(I may be thinking wrong here!) I really dont plan on ever running over 20 psi and Im not even sure if the turbo I have will do it. Id like to run in the 12-18 psi range depending on tuning and output values. My turbo is a TA34 with a compressor trim of .42 and a turbine trim of .48. Now Ive read a few books and read alot of online pages about turbo sizing and mapping and all that jazz but still dont know how this turbo will preform. It was part of the kit I got from Ludespeed. It has been converted to an external wastgate but isnt a ball bearing turbo. From what Ive gathered so far, the turbo should begin the transistion from lag to boost about 2-2200 rpm(sorry i forgot what the term for this is). The B20a isnt a vtech engin and dont really care but i dont see myself revving beyond the 7k rpm limit anyway. Id like to build the engine to sustain these qualities and livablity that Honda is known for.

As far as tuning and engine managment is concerned. I have a Apexi S-AFC, a HKS EVC 4, aTial 35mm wastegate, a HKS Super sequential blow off valve. The kit i got form ludespeed has all the upgraded options such as the external wastgate for the turbo and the upgraded downpipe. I dont plan on trying to tune this myself. i was going to have it perfessionally tuned for both street and strip conditions. I have a act clutch and pressure plate and am looking into the findaza flywheel thr rob fouind.

basicly is there anything I am overlooking or not looking at. What type of power should I expect to see in reality? Ive read plenty of whatr you and others have to say. I am not an engine eficianato or guru but know as much as it takes to know how to do basic rebuilds and such. I build things as a hobby(a very expensive hobby at that).

If you could check and see what your shop may want for all this work that would be great. do you think they could do the JDM B16 intake swap like openloop did?

Sean
01-19-2004, 09:01 PM
basically i think your spedning money in the wrong places. the engine rod ratio wont imporve with an overbore. a longer rod would help with that. if you dont need a big over bore dont get one. as for sleeves ill talk to the machinist. itll depend on the quality of the iron in there and the quality of what easy to replace it with. yeah pistons rods etc. it can all be done. just email me. Ill set you up. PS im in detriot Michigan. so shipping is a must.

mykwikcoupe
10-16-2004, 12:19 PM
The kit I currently have is a ludespeed modification. Ive got a TA34 with a .42 compressor a/r and a .48 turbine a/r. Ive been told that its capable of about 280 hp. Im not sure thats enough for what Im looking for. Whats the largest turbo I can fit on the b20a with a/c and ps without lowering the compression. When I rebiuld it Im going with aftermarket rods and pistons but am going to have them remade exactly like stock. Id like to see low to mid 300hp.

Im thinking in the range of a t3/4 hybrid if itll fit. the turbonetics gt25 looks promising but am not sure of its size and if it will work with my setup. I DO NOT WANT TO CHANGE MY MANIFOLD. Its got a 4 bolt hookup. If any changes are needed Id be willing to change the downpipe but dont really want to change that either. I want a low spool around 2-2500and enough boost to range 18-25 max. sorry if my demands seem imposible but Im posting this looking for info. this is my first turbo project and have dealt mainly with supercharges. Ive searched the net alot talked and sent many emails to only get a BS responce or nothing at all.

mykwikcoupe
10-16-2004, 12:47 PM
I can take pics. Ive been told its a TA324 but am not 100% sure. is there a marker on the housing someplace? Also how do you measure trim? many of his other kits are running t25 turbos. I just dont want to spend all the time and money getting this thing just right. bring it to the dynu and get like 210 hp. his preludes where getting 178 rwhp and thats low for me. Where starting with 160. Im into the project almost 8k so my expectations are kinda high.

Oyvind Ryeng
10-16-2004, 01:19 PM
The manifold has what flange? Almost every turbo in the entire world has a 4-bolt flange. We *need* to know if it's a T25/T28 or a T3 or a T4 flange to be able to help you.

Also, search the archives over at Honda-Tech.com. You'll most likely use the same sized turbo as the B18A/B (LS) users. You'll most likely use a standard T3/T4 hybrid with a .63 A/R Stage-3 wheel (T350?) turbine side and a .60 A/R 54- or 57-trim compressor side. This turbo has become the norm for turbo most Hondas. The rich boys gets the Garret GT30R or GT35R.

What are the exact WHP the turbo has to support? What compression? What cams? What type of manifold? How high are you spinning the engine? Want a low-end torque monster or neck-breaking top-end?

night
10-16-2004, 01:57 PM
you can generally get a bigger GT than you would a standard. they spool that much faster. big chunk of change though...

mykwikcoupe
10-16-2004, 02:27 PM
wow thats a lot of info to think about. Ok lets start with the intake and work from there. ill probably use the b16 or b18 aftermarket for intake after converting to obd1. The cams will be whatever needed to get the output desired. As for exact numbers Im not sure just yet. Ill want a very streetable machine. Itll see upwards of 5k maybe more possible as far as 7 if I can balance the engine out that far and not see alot of block issues. Proabably closer to the 5k-6k range and thats why I would prefer a turbo to spool so low. Im keeping the stock CR so thats 9.5:1 I think many 9.4:1.

power output HMMM well everyone want as much as possible so lets say with a stock jdm b20a 5 speed with the b16 LSD from gude yokohama spec2 rubbers on 16 inch rims. Im losing performance with the 16's over 15's the yokos cant handle a great amount of power so lets say as much as I can safley transfer to the ground. Ill be using a 2 stage boost controller. Id be estatic to see 350 rwhp. Id be happy to see 300. Id be dissapointed to see anything less than 250. That being said a turbo small in design capable of 400 hp. Oh and lets go with a low end monster because everyone knows we dont have the little stroke of the b16 so Im going to be revving the hell out it every time

Im sorry I dont know enough about turbos to know which flange is which. i have it sitting here in front of me. Is there any info i can give you that will help me tell you? Its rectangular shaped3 of the bolts are in a square pattern the 4th closest to the turbine is slightly offset to the outside of the others the inlet measure roughly 55 mm x 44mm and is shaped like an rectangle with rounded corners.

thanks alot guys Mike

AccordEpicenter
10-16-2004, 02:37 PM
I doubt youll see 280hp with a .42/.48... maybe if you had a .60/.48 or a .60/.63 (like me :) ) but for the ultimate in spoolup and responsiveness youll want to get somthing like the Garrett GT28RS (disco potato) they are very espensive ( $1k-$2k or so new) its a funky T25 based turbo with very small spoolup time and nice hp capability... very very little lag either. A T3/T4 hybrid will be a tad on the laggy side but will easily support 350-400hp, if a nice compromise and low cost is what youre looking for id say get somthing like a T3 .60/.48 or super 60 compressor (a lil bigger than the regular.60 wheel but only found on turbonetics turbos i think)... youd be getting to 300hp on the T3 .60 and 350hp on the turbonetics super 60...

mykwikcoupe
10-16-2004, 03:05 PM
well Ill let you in on a sectret of mine. Ive learned from past experiences that worth is what you decide to make it and you get what you pay for. That being said id i can get what i want the first time out for say 20% greater cost than antispated than no problem. its only money. it comes and it goes. Im more concerned with meating expectations than savings 50 bucks here or there.

So what do the ratios mean anyway in layman terms please. is the t28 a t3 compressor and why did you call it a disco potato? So is the higher ratios nummbers better in all cases?

If I was to get this sort of turbo would aftermarket rods and pistons hold up to the abuse on 9.5:1 CR I dont want to lose lowend drivability.

night
10-16-2004, 03:08 PM
http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html

mykwikcoupe
10-16-2004, 03:17 PM
well it seems as thought the disco potatoo gt28rs has a power limit of 350 hp and thts cool. The upgrades from there seem to be you get more power at higher revs then Im planning on going. so Its looking like thats the style Im looking for maybe. Plus there selling then in the 650+ range new. Only thing, dont i want one that external wastegated rather than internal?

AccordEpicenter
10-16-2004, 03:31 PM
yes it does, you are correct, but itll spool ALOT FASTER due to its lower rotating mass and ball bearing cartridge and give you boost probably practically off idle. It seems to be that the bigger compressor you have (within reason) the better top end pull youll have, so id bet that if you had a t3/t4 you might have better top end power than the GT28RS at the expense of moderate lag and spoolup rpm increasing from say... 2500 rpm to 3500+... it depends on your preferences... there is no major problem with using an internal wastegate even at those power levels, its more compact and cheaper too. I guess it depends on how much power you want to support???

BTW the numbers represent the size of the compressor and exhaust turbine wheel...

mykwikcoupe
10-16-2004, 03:37 PM
well if it comes with internal wastegate and itll work fine than I wont have a use for the tila 35mm I have now. this will help in absorbing the cost of the new turbo unit. Again to the first question. Will this turbo fit in the space provided and bolt up the same. if they are both T3 housings made by garrett than they shuld correct? Also Im reading the post the night left and have a question about my turbo manifold. they have there wastegate ports installed on the manifold itself. On my setup the wastegate is an external and its below the turbo. Is this OK?

mykwikcoupe
10-16-2004, 04:38 PM
it looks like my flange is the t25/gt25 flange. is this ok touse the gt28rs?
stock T25. In fact, from the outside, the two turbos look nearly identical. The oil feed and both water fittings for the water-cooled centre housings are identical to the stock turbo.

It was developed by Garrett in the US for a project car called the Disco Potato with an SR20 powerplant.The car's power was impressive, 280 hp at the wheels, but not earth-shattering. The driving experience however, was. Throttle response was excellent, turbo lag virtually non-existent, and the tyre-smoking horsepower was outstanding. The turbo spooled up early, making so much torque, that the best quarter-mile time (13.7 at 104.5 mph) was achieved launching in second gear. The vehicle was so successful that Garrett the turbo as the GT28RS

Oyvind Ryeng
10-17-2004, 05:07 AM
Well, the GT28RS has a T25 flange:

ATP Turbo (http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-004&Category_Code=GRT)

mykwikcoupe
10-17-2004, 05:32 AM
tes I noticed that. i came across this looking for a size comparison. the one on the left is the gt28rs and the other is a t25. I know need to find a pic comparison between the ta34 and the t25. sorry cant post pics so heres a link http://www.windsorworld.net/ww/Images/TurboComparison-1.jpg

is there a spot on the turbo where it lists what model it is. Im not sure if it is the TA34. Its not a very popular model from what i can gather so why would tom put one in his kit?

mykwikcoupe
10-17-2004, 05:46 AM
http://www.agpturbo.com/customer/product.php?productid=3&cat=1&page=1
http://www.agpturbo.com/customer/product.php?productid=15&cat=20
http://www.turbofast.com.au/balmid.html

I think these are mt current turbo. if the a/r are so low on mine why are they calling it a T04e turbo? man I wish i knew 100% for sure

thats pretty much all i can find on it. so if my turbo is rated for say 250 max power than bolting it onto a 160 hp engine and gaining 90 hp with a cost of over 6k currently, wow what a disapointment. Definately not the turbo I want. Although at what point is it unsafe to run pump gas on a car producing around 300 with a turbo and 9.4:1 cr

Oyvind Ryeng
10-17-2004, 06:04 AM
There is almost never good markings on the turbo telling us what it is. One has to know what turbine- and compressor wheels are used, that is really important. The housings usually has staped in them what A/R they are.

Speaking of A/R: It is not the same from familiy to family. A .48 A/R T4 turbine housing is closer (guessing) to a 1.06 A/R T3 housing in terms of max exhaust flow supported.

mykwikcoupe
10-17-2004, 06:08 AM
the housings are stamped with the a/r numbers yes they are stated above. the turbine from my niotes say its a T3 turbine soory im not listing the compressor

if there is any other measurments that may help in identifying the turbo please ask. Would it help to give you a rough size of the compressor or turbine housing, maybe the inlet diameter

mykwikcoupe
10-18-2004, 05:40 PM
next question, who knows the equation to figure starting CR to run wityh say 18-20psi?
I dont reallt want to run racegas all the time. Id be willing to drop the Cr down to say 9.0:1 any thoughts

AccordEpicenter
10-18-2004, 05:59 PM
run stock compression and just pull out more timing... 9.3:1

mykwikcoupe
10-18-2004, 06:02 PM
dont you think Id run into detonation problems or too high compression by the time i start throwing say 20psi in there

The effective compression ratio of a forced induction engine is (( boost psi / 14.7 ) + 1) * motor compression

figure that out? whats the asterik for? subtract maybe? If so then at 20 psi Id need to run a 8:1 CR man talk about no bottom end off the line grunt

AccordEpicenter
10-19-2004, 07:55 AM
with proper managemant and tuning (i doubt you could make it live on anything less than 93 oct) you should be able to hit 20psi on stock compression (youll need forged pistons) but youll have to run less timing than you would at 8:1 compression and more fuel

mykwikcoupe
10-19-2004, 04:30 PM
dont you mean more timing. You need to retard with the more boost. Ok I get it you mean less as in a negative number. ok so the next question would be which emu? Hondata or zdyne, or whatever rob chose i think its ams or aem or something like that. I want boost refenced timing, dual stage boost control, the whole nine as far as programming with obd0-obd1. Ill be running the msd 6al, walbro fuel pump and all. Should i go for the 550 cc injectors or would a set of 450 work?

AccordEpicenter
10-19-2004, 05:30 PM
right you need to retard the timing... well im running 450s... i guess it depends on how much power you want to support?

mykwikcoupe
03-26-2005, 09:17 PM
ok so im not going to get the turbo motor rebiult this year obviously. So should i just install the b20a and the turbo as it sits and run it till I can afford to rebiuld or it blows up then go on with the plans. With the current setup Ill be running the S-AFC hack and about 9 psi in guessing from a .42/.48 50trim turbo.

The later plans are to install a gt28rs probably with a diufferent manifold or whatever depending on if I like the performance with the smaller turbo or not.

What do you guys think if oyuve kept up on my previous threads you know whats going on. Itll be the hks evc 4, apexi s-afc, teg dizzy, tial 35mm wastegate, hks bov, and all that jazz. Nothing too fancy just to see what itll do and go from there.

My major focus this year is the wifeys project carbed b20a so Im spending alot on that instead of the turbo motor.

My b20a looks great and Im sure is a 40k or less engine from B20aturbo. The turbo kit is a modified stage 2 from ludespeed originally purchased by mikelee. Let me know. Its killing me having all these parts and just staring at them

carotman
03-28-2005, 05:44 PM
Like yoda says: Do, or do not. There is no try.

What would happen if the B20A throws a rod through the block.... you would have to find another block.

With rob buying almost every B20A around, they will soon be rare :kekeke:

Nah, seriously, if you throw a rod through the block, you would have the hassle to find another one...

RobT5580
03-28-2005, 06:19 PM
Im mixed on this topic since im on my 3rd block and only about 40 miles on the turbo. Tuning is the key to running the turbo but keep in mind all the hastles you have to expect with a custom turbo kit. If you can get another block easily fine then experiment now before it gets expensive but seeing that they are hard to find i would not chance throwing a rod.

Its very easy to damage stuff on a turbo engine so make sure you know what you getting into and if you have a spare car and dont mind the down time i would play around with it before you get yourself into deep like me. You have basically all you need laying around so hopefully shit goes better than mine and fortunatly Josh in NY had another headgasket. I have to order a spare soon since i sold you all my extra stuff when i ran a copper hg that didnt work out.

Good Luck and feel free to ask me stuff im hoping to have a 3rd attempt in the next few weeks depending on how long the machine shop takes. He said this friday but 3 weeks turned into 3 months last time so time will tell.

mykwikcoupe
03-28-2005, 06:22 PM
HMM thats true I was banking on more the bad gasket or something like a popped piston more than the block. Maybe its not worth the risk. Did you ever figure out what C/R you gained from the ITR pistons?

For the wifeys car racingeng has there b20a5 10.5:1 pistons on sale for 300. By the time I buy and ship the ITR pistons and machine the piston pin mount Id probably be in the 300 range anyway. Maybe Ill just go with the aftermarkets? Of course if I had the ITR pistons I could have them move the piston higher in the bore to make a little more C/R also. Awww too risky Id hate to smack the valves. Oh and the second paragrapg is not the turbo car.

RobT5580
03-28-2005, 06:47 PM
Raceeng is good iv bought 2 sets of pistons from them. The 9:1 compression ones are made by Wiseco so the 10.5:1 may be as well. But they have come through for me and can do custom pistons if need be you can call them at 1-561-533-5500 I dealt with Rob.

mykwikcoupe
03-28-2005, 09:57 PM
well you sadi even though you didnt get to drive the car it was killer right. Your running the T3 super 6 right. So 9:1 C/R with the t3 which isnt much bigger than i have now well i guess it is (.42/.48). back to the stock cams did you get dyno numbers.

man I want to compete but your having terrible luck Im thinking good is good enough. But then there accoedepicenter running turbo and boast pretty nice things. Id hate to represent the b20a and have it be a loser. well what the hell its a bseries right. you see all those guys running 12:1 I might as well run 9.3-9.5 with the t3 maybe Gt28rs running mega boost 15+. no just kidding Id run 9.3 max

did you have yours coated? Id ask about the rods but apparently thats a soar subject???

have you figured it out yet. So say i was to run the small .42/.48 would ythe internals of the closed deck b20a take it for a limited time till i can afford to rebiuld? I wouldnt toally beat it since Id be using the afc hack unless i could seel that for enough to do the obd1 upgrade. 100 harness, ecu, uberdata eproom and emulator, dizzy.

AccordEpicenter
03-28-2005, 10:47 PM
you can run it wit the safc but id def get a bigger fuel pump (walbro 190 or 255) if youre gonna go to 9psi, which can be done on a safc just fine but id reccomend a wideband af gauge to help you tune, and also youll need some kind of timing control, like an msd boost timing master p 5462 or 6btm... if the tuning is good and you dont detonate you should be able to do around 10psi max if you have a conservative tune (id say at least .7 degrees retard per lb of boost and 12.5 a/f or richer)

RobT5580
03-29-2005, 11:03 AM
My pistons were not coated and im still running the pauter rods which are a bit overkill. If i were to do it over again i would get some decent H23 rods and the same pistons. Yeah i have the Garrett T3 Super 60 the same as what Justin ran on his car. The car seemed to pull real good but only the dyno will tell how well it was. Hopefully things turn around for me cause i need to catch a break somewhere.

mykwikcoupe
03-29-2005, 09:52 PM
are the h23 rated for more power than the b20a5? Why those rods over the pauters. Wanna trade for the xdp210eq yet? I know youve got a ton of xtras learking around

RobT5580
03-29-2005, 10:08 PM
The H23 rods are interchangable with the B20A5's thats what the pauters are for originally but they match the B20A5. I dont have anything to trade for the XDP plus im kinda at a stand still with the car because of all the bs going on lately.

mykwikcoupe
03-30-2005, 08:25 PM
oh i understand no problem. but what makes the h23 rods a better choice for the turbo than the b20a5 rods

RobT5580
03-31-2005, 07:23 AM
Just the aftermarket support they essentially are the same so you should be able to pick up any H23 aftermarket rod and use them.

mykwikcoupe
03-31-2005, 05:31 PM
oh so your saying youd go with an aftermarket h23 over the auter rods you chose. For some reason i thought you meant youd go with the stock h23 rods over the pauter ones youve got. My mistake

mykwikcoupe
04-15-2005, 09:18 PM
So I totalled my 88 coupe on wednesday. T-boned at 50

http://img192.echo.cx/img192/6578/dscn04568hv.jpg
http://img192.echo.cx/my.php?image=dscn04568hv.jpg

http://img192.echo.cx/my.php?image=dscn04530tf.jpg

http://img192.echo.cx/my.php?image=dscn04524eb.jpg

http://img192.echo.cx/my.php?image=dscn04600dl.jpg

http://img192.echo.cx/my.php?image=dscn04610lz.jpg

so Im pretty banged up. left side hurts pretty bad. Im too tough to go get checked out but Im sure ive got some bruised ribs. My hips are pretty sore. All through my neck down to the small of my back. Im a big guy with a bigger pain tolerance so if i hurt its bad. The car moves but not well. The rear quarterpanel is resting on the tire. Im lucky that it didnt do any suspension damage so the rims and konis are still good. The leather interior that i put in it for all of 3 days isnt in bad shape considering. The bottom of the car is a good 10-12 inches shorter with the rook making up for anoth 4 inches or so.

Damn blonde didnt even try to stop or anything. Oh well it was my fault. Only had liability so Im out the car, cost of the tow bill to get the car back to my place for parting and such and the 153 ticket for failure to yield. Dirty cops. Go get a donut and leave me alone. Thats 2 tickets and an accident in a really short time.

The car that hit me was a 94 4 door accord. Literally less than 500 in damages. Hood was a alittle bowed. Fenders and hood were still lined up. didnt break anythiong but a bumper light. My car got the full impact. My rear tired left about a 20 ft patch and the front a good 5-10. So any comments.

Im looking for another car to replace it as we speak so help me out guys. you know what i need. i want the same car same color and all. Must be in perfect shape as far as the body goes. No rust no bodywork nothing. I dont car about the interior or running condition but the I want a carfax report proving the cars body is immaculate. The color is monterey green metallic and it must be a coupe. I dont mind trvellng as my best bet is you southern guys fo a great rustfree car. Willing to pay high bluebook but it must be worth it and will make you prove it. Let me know by Im please. Mike

3gn86lxi
04-15-2005, 10:08 PM
Mike.....dude that sucks! BUT you are O.K. and the car is replaceable. And after all the work to swap the interior :uh: . But still, the important thing is that you were able to walk(limp) away.
Anyway, I know of a sedan for sale, no coupes though. Hope it all works out for ya bro.
Let us know what you are going to let go for parts.

adams86lxi
04-15-2005, 10:11 PM
damn dude that sucks!

88Accord-DX
04-15-2005, 10:16 PM
Good thing your ok & it wasn't a worse off situation than that.
What is up on people wrecking there cars on here? :sad2: I see a parts thread coming....

Hope you find a car your looking for. Hang in there...

TheWatcher
04-16-2005, 02:29 AM
You might want to go see a doctor, maybe you broke some ribs. I broke 4 ribs myself. They really can't do anything to help you heal except immobilize your body by wrapping it, but the doctor can prescribe some pain killers to help you sleep at night.

Also, you can get a doctors note, mine said I couldn't go back to work for 2 weeks, but my boss was a bitch and made me work. My doctor asked what kind of monster would make me work after I broke 4 ribs? But my doctor never met my old boss (I know she will burn in HELL, and I'll be cheering the whole time. Burn bitch, BURN!!!).

Peace.

AccordEpicenter
04-16-2005, 06:23 AM
ouch dude at least you got away without getting really hurt, side impact protection in these accords is a joke, that was about the worst place you couldve gotten hit

epic1400cs
04-16-2005, 06:32 AM
Oh man, I am very sorry to know your accident. I wish you can find immacurate car and recover from your injury soon.

Justin86
04-16-2005, 08:12 AM
damn that blows big time

ICEMAN707
04-16-2005, 08:17 AM
i got first dibs on that b20 if you decide to sell it. :D im glad you are ok though.

SteveDX89
04-16-2005, 08:20 AM
That sucks man. You really should go the doctor to get checked tho. There's no price on your life and your health. Don't try to be all tough about it because it could something bad.

bobafett
04-16-2005, 09:59 AM
yeah seriously.. theres no point being a tough guy now if you have a problem that your not aware of.... it could really come back to bite you. please go see a doctor..

THAT being said, thank god your ok, sounds like it could have been a lot worse! keep your spirits up, and hopefully u find that perfect coupe, if not my accord is still for sale. ;) jk...

RobT5580
04-16-2005, 01:42 PM
Damn Mike, Glad you ok i would hang on to your stuff until you can get another one. I just got mine fixed with a problem but it seems ok so far. Hopefully i can get it taken care of soon so i can see what its like at full boost.

maxoutracer
04-16-2005, 02:03 PM
now that'a totally losted... hopefully u get your parts out and swap it over :)

mykwikcoupe
04-16-2005, 06:42 PM
man accordepeicenter why didnt you warn me of that earlier maybe I wouldnt have tried playing chicken. Im in the process of trying to find another one. if you all want to help thats appreciated much. You know what i want. I figured with the cost of the car, tow bill and ticket Im out about 2500 so not as much as to be expected considering. Of course on top of that I need to replace the car so thats another 1-3 grand. All parts are salvageable except the headliner. maybe the front and back seat but I mnot sure yet. I figure to part it out and sell what i have Id never even get 1/2 the cost back so ill look for a replacement. Thankls for the kind words it helps witht he loss. Mike

NXRacer
04-16-2005, 07:47 PM
thats good to hear you made it out in one piece but you should DEFFINATELY go get yourself checked out. That kind of impact can do some serious damage to you and it will only get worse in time.

ICEMAN707
04-16-2005, 08:21 PM
there's two monterey green coupes on ebay right now mike.

MrBen
04-16-2005, 09:31 PM
Holy damn that sucks, I'm really sorry but glad you're ok. Get yourself checked out. If it's money you're worried about, its better to pay the bucks now to get checked out then pay for it later with injuries/meds/doc visits that could haunt you the rest of your life. Where did the accident happen? Again I'm really sorry!

MIK3
04-17-2005, 12:29 AM
Wow, sorry man. This is really hard on you I'm sure. It's sad to see a 3gee go down like that, it really is. Good to hear your not too seriously injured though. But I would follow what the fellas say and see a doctor in any event.

mykwikcoupe
04-17-2005, 06:49 AM
it happened on HWY 99 around 202th street wednesday. I was pulling out of work biulding a new lexus dealership and misjudged distance i guess. She pulled onto hwy 99 the same time i entered so the cops say she moved 150ft in the time it took me t cross 1 lane of road. She was moving if you ask me. I just put the interior in, the only left was the engine and trans and the car was DONE.

smufguy
04-17-2005, 08:15 AM
Sad to hear about it mike. also glad that you accept your fault. also sad to hear that you dont wanna see a doctor. I hope u do before u start caughing up ur own ribs.

Always had a hatred for guys who get on the yield sign, I know its not a stop sign and u dont have to slow down completely, but at the same time, its not a sign that means 'race the car of freeway to get ahead of him' either. I tend to slow down a lot coming up on a freeway and for me, its just like a stop sign. I practically stop and blur out the damn honk in the rear if there is any. Worse comes to worse, the dude behind me got aggravated, but i still got my car and my body and life in one piece, his aggravation will cause him something, not me.

Next time, please be careful, everytime we take the cars out of our driveway we run the risk of getting hurt and worse, hurting others. Hope to see you working good, soon man.

b20a86lude
04-18-2005, 08:25 AM
dude that really sux hey if u decide to part it out i ned a cpuple things off ur ,motor ok i got first dibs

mykwikcoupe
04-18-2005, 08:36 PM
well Im doubting ill part it out but ive got a few other projects in th works that would be nice to get going again. Anyone remembe r the thunderchicken. How about the b18c5 1st gen civic. you never know whats going on in my garage

mykwikcoupe
05-07-2005, 05:45 AM
So as most know ive been working on a turbo project simliar to robs but not quite as drag associated. Im an autocrosser so I I chose to go with a t3 42/48 pumping around 9-12 psi is what I gather. Well Id like a fmic and since they say the smaller the better for boost lag I was thinking id go with just a small 6x28 or so. My turbo isnt huge so i dont want to have to pressurize a big plenum before getting boost.

Well the downfall of this is of course heat saturation of the cores themselves which is probably worse then the large plenum problem. I was thinking about it and decided to look into a CO2 rail that sprays the front of the FMIC so that would cool it down signifgantly and still have my small plenum. Obviously this wont be for everyday use but if I need a good burst it would be there.

Im also going with a decent shot of nitro on WOT. My engine is going to be biult using only the best such as rob has done (hopefully without the hassles, sorry rob) so Im not worried about the internals. Im going to use obd-1 with uberdata so tuning will be good and Im not doing it which is even better. Ill be running the 9.5:1 pistons same as rob if they ever go back on sale again but Im not sure about the pauter rods. Id like something a little lighter that doesnt require the block clearences his did.

Anyway if anyone has any thoughts let me know. The FMIC Im looking at isnt too small for my turbo just not large enough for optimal usage. Mike

AccordEpicenter
05-07-2005, 07:08 AM
i wouldnt worry too much about making you lag, a larger intercooler has less of a pressure loss thru it so you wont notice it lag more than if you had a little intercooler. Also, cryo cooling works good but the gas tends to get sucked up in your air intake, killing power if its co2. If your auto crossing id say a better choice is just spraying a water mist over a good sized intercooler to get rapid reduction in temps, cheaper easier than using cryo cooling. 6x28 intercooler is a pretty good size, im running somthing close to that, one side is hot, the other is not. If youre gonna spray, I hope you have forged pistons going in too? Id highly reccomend you tune with a wideband a/f gauge but the key to making all of this work good, is all in the tune ;)

smufguy
05-07-2005, 08:10 AM
9.5:! with 12 psi?? hmmmm you better have a damn good engine management, and shit load of ignition retartd. if any, i would have asked u to go with the dsm engine specs, like 8.8:1 compression and just run a 14b or 16g turbo and just run more boost.............

as far as the intercooler spray, CO2 is not needed, u will be pretty good with waterspray like the evo and sti. them nozzles are easier to maintain and also throw the container and pump in the trunk of the car like those cars.

if you are using Nitrous. u need to program it for 25 to 30 shot and no more to be safe and have it for corner exits where turbo lag is prominent cause upuntil the apex, ur breaking which causes the turbo to slow down and during a corner exit, u punch the gas from 60deg to WOT and thats when the lag is prominent cause the turbo has already slowed down is trying to spin faster and nitrous in this time will help it a bunch. you dont have to go with the 4 nozzle wet kit, just a regular single nozzle like Jim (hostilejava) would be good enough.

ps: i would defenitely lower the compression if i was you. even the 14psi sti uses 8.2:1 cr and the 18psi evo uses 8.8:1 like mentioned above.

AccordEpicenter
05-07-2005, 10:35 AM
Nahh 9.5:1 is boost friendly, there are guys around turboing honda S2Ks that have 11:1 compression. Especially for what you want to do, auto x, that compression is just fine. Your gonna need a good tuner and when spraying, id run better fuel, 91 or 93 octane is kind of low oct for boost and spray. It would be beneficial to get into a multi port wet nitrous setup at this point because the amount of nitrous is evenly divided into each runner, which is not nessescerily the case with a single jet kit, but is not a must. Either way id still run a wet kit.

smufguy
05-07-2005, 10:54 AM
hmm i have seen S2000s with comptech superchargers with low comp pistons. like 9.0:1. The friend of mine with his stock 4g63 block detonated under 18psi and it was a 1995cc motor with 8.8:1 cr pistons. but for a 12psi and a 9.5 cr, i would cross my fingers on that.

running standalones would help u a lot because they will automatically retart the ignition timing when feeding nitrous and they have a built in two stage nitrous control to program a staggered nitrous injection.

werent you gonna change to OBD-1? i thought u were gonna.

A20A1
05-07-2005, 12:51 PM
you could try to double the use of the CO2... run thin tubes before the turbo some where in the intake pipe so that air is pulled past them and cooled... then continue the tubes to the jets that will release the spray at the intercooler.

mykwikcoupe
05-07-2005, 05:24 PM
I read somewhere that they were working on an uberdata hack that used a boost reference for nitro kits and such. Im going to go with a wideband O2 and it will be done when swapping the engine in.

Im definately going with a wet kit as its easier when you understand and better in my opinions. But with the water injection this is the mist on the face of the intercooler. is it effective when not at speeds? I mean say 25 mph rather than 50+.

Im ok with the 9.5 cr with 12 psi. Like epicenter said as long as its tuned Im good. As far as the nitro goes im going to set it up with 25 hp and work my way up from there till i feel I cant handle it or it appears nothing is gained on the dyno. No more than 100 hp. Ive got some major proven drag racers in my corner so tuning is no problem. if you log onto horepowerheaven look at the 57 chevy running 7.70s the 69 camero running 11.80s and the 70 nova in the mid 9s I believe. these are my buddies. Oh and this will be a 92 octane engine only no higher or lower

Anyway thanks for the help and keep the thoughts comming

AccordEpicenter
05-08-2005, 12:53 PM
youre gonna be pulling out alot of timing to do this on 92 octane but it can be done. A bigger fuel pump and colder plugs (2 steps colder) are going to be a must have for this setup

FyreDaug
05-08-2005, 03:54 PM
What about spraying through the turbo to spool it up? Ive heard guys do this and its pretty successful, I dont know much about it myself but nitrous through the turbo under pressure spools it up quick.

A20A1
05-08-2005, 04:09 PM
Nitrous thru the turbo? that's pretty dangerous...

A shot of nitrous would do better injected into the runners anyways... it would expand and add some cooling to the intake charge.

As for the nitrous for spooling the impeller wont work you'd have to pump out a lot of gas to spool the turbo... too much IMO so you're just asking for it to blow.

Vanilla Sky
05-08-2005, 04:29 PM
i thought you couldn't use nitrous in the SCCA... i was told i couldn't even bring an empty bottle to the track...

PhydeauX
05-08-2005, 05:27 PM
There is always the air-water route. More complicated, but you get shorter pipes and a smaller intercooler. If you're going to be auto-xing and street driving it should be fine since you wont be running under extened periods of boost. You can always put ice in the water reservior to get a really cold charge for racing as well.

andy

Vanilla Sky
05-08-2005, 05:39 PM
yeah, air to water is a good idea...

mykwikcoupe
05-08-2005, 09:07 PM
Ive got that setup already but im running into a lack of space for the pump,reservior and all the other junk. I was planning on putting by the battery so theres room since the battery wont be there but then theres the piping issues. Ive got a 255 lph walbro pump that came with the turbo kit. Plenty of fuel there. Looks like ill go with the water misters in front of the intercooler and see what hapens. id hate to do premature damage to teh car with all the extra water. HMT has a similar topic going and there saying 300 hp is rated fro 4 GPH. thats either one heck of a reserve or alot of pit stops on refilling. Not saying itll run all the time but it sounds like its going to be a one shot deal before refill.

smufguy
05-08-2005, 09:19 PM
water to air intercooler is something i would not do. Its for cars that have limited space in the engine bay and also a good thing to learn from Jhonny. When he had air to air, he was running10s and 11s, but now with the water to air, getting into the 12s is a big deal for him. So dont bother with water to air.

premature engine damage by water spraying on ur intercooler??


What about spraying through the turbo to spool it up? Ive heard guys do this and its pretty successful, I dont know much about it myself but nitrous through the turbo under pressure spools it up quick.

the guys you heard from are just full of shit. the pressure from that nozzle is not gonna spin the turbo. unless you misunderstood their lingo ;)

system-f
05-09-2005, 07:42 AM
Air to air is best suited, but if space is limited a water to air is the second best. A limited design (limited meaning it is limited in the amount of reactant providing cooling) would be best suited for drag racing (freezing intercoolers, ice water, etc). I keep sitting here thinking about all the times I autoXed and am trying to figure out why you think your going to need this extra quick burst of power a CO2 cooled turbo system (or any turbo/nos system) is going to provide??? 99% of the time AutoXing doesn't work like that, the power will NOT net better times. I actually ran better times once when my turbo failed on the track!!!

A 3g accord can be VERY successful auto Xing with some very very sticky tires, good coil overs, and most important of all a VERY good driver.

PhydeauX
05-09-2005, 10:00 AM
What about spraying through the turbo to spool it up? Ive heard guys do this and its pretty successful, I dont know much about it myself but nitrous through the turbo under pressure spools it up quick.

I think he's talking about those systems they use on rally cars to keep the turbo spooled. They dump fuel into the turbine housing to keep it spooled with the cars shift or something. I don't know exactly how it works. I do know that its very hard on the turbo and exhaust components. The big budget rally guys don't care, but you probalby don't want to be replacing turbos and down pipes all the time in your car.

Johnny lost time with an air water setup? In drag racing he should be able to actualy gain time with it (well atleast a denser charge). His run's arn't nearly long enough to heat soak the water and water is a much more efficient coolant then air. (its just that you have a limited supply of cold water that puts a damper on the air water setup). I'd like to see what he's running. I've got my car going again finally so I should make it up to some of the races this year.

andy

smufguy
05-09-2005, 02:14 PM
Antilag system usually called the MISfiring system does not dump fuel into the manifold. Its just retards the ignition timing to 40degs and this causes literally no combustion in the camber but intense heat of the manifold causes those unburnt fuel mixture to ignite within the exhaust/turbo manifold (hence the poping sound on a turn or when they let go of the gas) to keep the turbo spooled up.

yeah andy, from the last time i saw him and had my friend there at englishtown couple of weeks back and he saw jhonny there and he said he ran like 12s or something. So he is pretty much loosing time with that set up or something is going wrong with his car as a whole. his setup is real bulky and buncha people including Vinny (i guess) saw his car at his house when they were at a meet or soemthing.

A20A1
05-09-2005, 03:44 PM
That was the one with the B&M coolers right?... maybe the pipe diameter is too small??
They work great for oil but I dunno about water. Maybe it is beign pumped thru the cooler too fast and isn't getting enough time to cool.

mykwikcoupe
05-09-2005, 09:14 PM
well the setup itself isnt for auto crossing. Im biulding the engine with turbo for auto crossing. A 2 litler engine with a lot of low end torque for a turbo. Im going with a smaller turbo for faster spool and consistency around the track. Im faster in 78 civic than most drivers in there new cars. I keep telling people its not about speed it about keeping motion constant aound corners.

The nitro and the co2 was more of a street prep or minro drag setup. I figure ill pretty quick but not neccassarily fast so the nitro shot will make up for that and I wanted the co2 for a little road racing Im known for with all my friends. Just a few add ons for other uses not really auto crossing. I miss my accord. I was ready for the season and everything. That thing rode on rails.

AccordEpicenter
05-09-2005, 09:26 PM
id ditch the co2 idea, you can spray if you want i guess, but i think a water spray over the ic will be more cost effective

mykwikcoupe
05-09-2005, 09:53 PM
Im leaning that way. its sounding like a better idea but i wonder at which speeds its effective? How fast do you have to be going for it to work properly?

smufguy
05-10-2005, 06:32 AM
Im leaning that way. its sounding like a better idea but i wonder at which speeds its effective? How fast do you have to be going for it to work properly?

well u will be using distilled water which has a higher latent heat of vaporization than regular water. and the reason u wont and cant use regular water cause it has impurities such as calcium and sedimentary salts that will fuck up ur IC's aluminum. Anyway, the temperature has to be around and upwards of 70deg for the water to evaporate and going about 40mph u can feel that its pretty effective. Since urs is a front mount rather than the sti's top mount, and their waterspray is said to work around 45mph (the best) and upwards. U should have no problem at low speeds. And also know that, the colder the water, the more effective it is and the purer the water (distilled water) the better it is in cooling. You will notice a big different at a 80deg weather and thats when knock will be more prominent, esp at an autocross where the engine will be under stress constantly and driven in the higher rpms all the time. A knock sensor is a much and i hope u have one and have the radiator fans run constantly on the track, by just putting a switch on the thermo sensor harness and plug it back in for the road.

also the bottle or container for the IC water spray, needs to be protected from the radiant heat that will be produced in the trunk. So shield it in a way that it stays cool.

Chadroper
05-10-2005, 07:50 AM
What about doing this. This is what I thought about. The engine would be turbocharged and NO2 would be injected into the intake manifold. But the amount injected would depend on the engine speed. So when the engine is running at low speeds and is not able to make much torque more NO2 will be injected than at very high speeds when the engine is able to make the most torque. Then I also thought about mounting spray bars in front of an intercooler and spraying NO2 onto it to chill the air after the turbocharger, and also using a water cooled turbocharger. I thought about running a hose from the turbocharger to a tank and a small pump. Then running another line to a small radiator. That radiator could also be cooled with NO2 or just air.

smufguy
05-10-2005, 08:10 AM
Chadroper, u think too much lol.

Water cooling is for the heat transfer from the hot bearings which are cooled by the oil and also lubed by them. A lof ot people dont do water cooling (even tho the turbo is ready for one) when they switch to aftermarket turbos.

The stuff ur talking about spraying nitrous and what not on the intercooler is expensive. I dont know if u realize how much u will be wasting. The NO2 spray is left alone unless u have a sponsor who dont mind u spraying that on the IC rather than inside the motor. You seem to haeve a STI, u should know how the performance aspect of it with the water spray. I bet u dont notice much of a difference till the temperature gets hot as hell.

With the proper ecu tuning, the power curve is altered at low engine speeds via the tps angle and also the ignition set up which will advance ur timing at low engine speeds, retard it under normal speeds and advance it (believe it or not) for WOT which is high engine speeds. the ECU will know how to change these parameters to meet your goal when u set up the maps for different application. so u can do it with a piggyback on a OBD-1 conversion or a standalone like Rob-T on the stock motor with custom wiring.

on a turbo motor, u only make power, if ur turbo is spooling and spraying the nitrous has to be for the specific turbo and its operating charecteristics. Like a small turbo will not have much of a lag since its small enough to spool fast, and spool up always depends on the exhaust side as you all know, so bigger the compressor and smaller the exhaust side, the better it is for you to cope with lag, but also u will be hitting the limit fast cause the turbo will be spooled up too soon.

So for his set up, he needs to put it up on the dyno, and tune the nitrous to be sprayed electronically controlled either by a different ecu or the standalone or the piggyback with an option of controlling the nitrous injection.

Chadroper
05-11-2005, 02:11 AM
Here is a better way. You could take a normal air-air intercooler and inclose it inside a box. Then spray bars would be mounted between the intercooler and the walls of the box. Some small holes would be drilled into the box. This would let only a small amount of CO2 leak out and it would cool the intercooler better. It would be immersed in the CO2 :sadwave:

AccordEpicenter
05-11-2005, 07:05 AM
yeah but that doesnt help you unless your using co2... just get a regular fmic and water spray

smufguy
05-11-2005, 09:04 AM
chadroper, the method u are describing is very expensive bro. and its not practical if u balance the cost to benefit scale....... ur scale is bottoming out on the cost.

Versanick
05-17-2005, 09:36 PM
For drag races, a kid I knew with a SOHC civic had the input and output pipes of the intercooler toward the top of it. The entire intercooler (not big) was immersed in a closed (mostly sealed) box of ice water (drag racing). Water has a very high specific heat, and needs to absorb a lot of heat energy before evaporating or even raising a single degree. He used to put in ice water, and at full 12lb boost, his intake charge at the TB was 80 deg F (huge diff. between the 120deg that he was getting on a dyno w/o the water)... spraying water on it, simply, will be slightly effective, but not hugely. Note that on a long open track, where the pavement is 140+ degrees, the air hanging just above the pavement where your car will be driving is VERY hot, and that spray of water CAN be a big deal. No, it won't slow you down unless for some reason the water you're spraying is sprayed directly on your air intake filter, in which case it would have to be a very poor filter and take in 100% of that water to even counteract the effects of spraying the intercooler.

Completely impossibly unlikely. It helps with the evo's and sti's a small amount. Not hugely, but a bit. Get a window washer sprayer from a car at a junkyard (both sides) and attach the nozzles to spray at your intercooler. Kits are expensive. And this method can work pretty well.

As long as your charge is cool, your octane is high, and your ignition is retarded, you can be just fine with such compression running whatever boost you want. A more highly compressed charge can be more apt to combust very quickly upon sparking than a less compressed charge. The difference between 8.8:1 and 9.5:1 is trivial at most. 8:1 and 10:1 is a break. I wouldn't worry about compression. Once you hit 11:1, and onward as such, you (with a hot charge) more risk spontaneous combustion, and big trouble. You're okay. Any intercooler at all is a big step over some old un-intercooled setups that ran into big problems with significant boost.

Take it light, keep the boost mild, and RETARD RETARD RETARD. Retarding ignition timing is the thing you have most control over with obd1. Get an MSD ignition retard box (cheap) and retard 3 degrees per pound of boost. You won't have a problem. My buddy runs 27lb in his built eclipse motor, and retards an additional degree beyond the normal retard of the 4g63 motor's retard for safety. And he claims 702whp without a knock or a detonation. Retarding vastly reduces the impact on the cylinder head and doesn't TOO

Versanick
05-17-2005, 09:37 PM
For drag races, a kid I knew with a SOHC civic had the input and output pipes of the intercooler toward the top of it. The entire intercooler (not big) was immersed in a closed (mostly sealed) box of ice water (drag racing). Water has a very high specific heat, and needs to absorb a lot of heat energy before evaporating or even raising a single degree. He used to put in ice water, and at full 12lb boost, his intake charge at the TB was 80 deg F (huge diff. between the 120deg that he was getting on a dyno w/o the water)... spraying water on it, simply, will be slightly effective, but not hugely. Note that on a long open track, where the pavement is 140+ degrees, the air hanging just above the pavement where your car will be driving is VERY hot, and that spray of water CAN be a big deal. No, it won't slow you down unless for some reason the water you're spraying is sprayed directly on your air intake filter, in which case it would have to be a very poor filter and take in 100% of that water to even counteract the effects of spraying the intercooler.

Completely impossibly unlikely. It helps with the evo's and sti's a small amount. Not hugely, but a bit. Get a window washer sprayer from a car at a junkyard (both sides) and attach the nozzles to spray at your intercooler. Kits are expensive. And this method can work pretty well.

As long as your charge is cool, your octane is high, and your ignition is retarded, you can be just fine with such compression running whatever boost you want. A more highly compressed charge can be more apt to combust very quickly upon sparking than a less compressed charge. The difference between 8.8:1 and 9.5:1 is trivial at most. 8:1 and 10:1 is a break. I wouldn't worry about compression. Once you hit 11:1, and onward as such, you (with a hot charge) more risk spontaneous combustion, and big trouble. You're okay. Any intercooler at all is a big step over some old un-intercooled setups that ran into big problems with significant boost.

Take it light, keep the boost mild, and RETARD RETARD RETARD. Retarding ignition timing is the thing you have most control over with obd1. Get an MSD ignition retard box (cheap) and retard 3 degrees per pound of boost. You won't have a problem. My buddy runs 27lb in his built eclipse motor, and retards an additional degree beyond the normal retard of the 4g63 motor's retard for safety. And he claims 702whp without a knock or a detonation. Retarding vastly reduces the impact on the cylinder head and doesn't affect power significantly enough to not be considered for safety.

Endyn engine dynamics supercharger kits supercharge 24lb on stock bottom ends for hundreds of thousands of miles without a problem. it's all in the ignition, as far as you're concerned.
good luck

peace

A20A1
06-09-2005, 03:54 AM
Well I'm glad you're not seriously injured... I hope you can find a new ride in the way that you like it.

mykwikcoupe
08-10-2005, 07:52 PM
yep thats it finally found the right car kinda. It isnt as nice as id like but the price was right thats for sure. its green coupe again. Ill detail it out really nice before i start the arguous task of swapping parts out. Anyone in the northwest area want to learn or help.

So for the imediate swap theres the suspension( koni reds front and rear with sprint springs), the dc sport strut tower brace, and lower sway bars. Im debating doing jims 1/2 drop mod but dont want to smack the only pair konis Ive got with ah ammer just drop the front end more since it already hard to get a jack under it.

from there the 5 speed swap again. Ill use a new clutch this time and not a centerforce. Anyone need any of the auto parts?

I suppose the interior will get done after that. I love the green coupe with sei dark grey leather it really looks nice. When i do that ill do a trunk mount battery and run the wires for the audio setup. Ive got a sony cdx-c90 deck, xdp-210eq, ill be running my phoenix gold xs4600 and xs2500 with the omnilink for power with a cap of course. Ive got a few subs laying around. Most likely the 12w6 jl's but Id really like the 10w7's in there but then i couldnt use those apms. Id have to use my soundstream 644s and the 1000s. those would take up too much space.

Oh lets see after that ill need to do a little parts swaping. The hood and fenders have been repainted from bra damage so Ill put on my old hood and passanger fender but Ill have to find a drivers fender and possibly a trunk lid. I wont know till i see if the sctratches buff out. Can you tell Im a little anal.

And the finally will be the jdM b20a 5 speed. Ive got a dual setup turbo project going. The charge pipes and all will be the same so I can swap turbos, ecu, and downpipe in about an hour and change from a street/ auto-x to ful on drag car in about an hour. The issue will be injectors. Ill run 550's with the small turbo but im pretty sure the gt8rs needs something larger. I want an injector to run bot setups and be fine with just changing the ecu with uberdata. Ill check on that though. So I get final delivery on friday so expect pics after that. Hope everythings been good. I havent really been here in about 4 months. Mike

carotman
08-10-2005, 08:56 PM
Glad to hear there will be another B20A running soon!

Now, we need pictures!

Rendon LX-i
08-10-2005, 09:02 PM
Where u at in washington man...

mykwikcoupe
08-11-2005, 09:24 PM
im over here in the eerett area. Im not going to make it to the meet. If we can get ine going for the west side guys im in. I need to make sure the ride nice like by then. I dont want anyone thinking im ghetto or anthing. Nothing but thte best for em yo. thanks all.

mykwikcoupe
08-13-2005, 10:42 PM
well the car seems to have a pretty bad rod knock and the piant isnt in as good of shape as id hope. The body is striaght though and Im going to swap engines anyway. Ill be driving along and for like 1 full second my car will do the nightrider smoke screen option. Its kinda funny watching people move out of the way. I feel pretty bad about it but hey its over before i notice it and its not like theres much i can doa bout it. Im gonna drive it till it wont then probably swap my spare motor and 5 speed since the rebiuld on the b20a wont be finished yet. Im debating installing it the way it is since it looks great and definatly has low miles. Im going to run a small 42/48 so its not like its going to be super powerful. Im shooting for 250 at the wheels. Just for satrters. Ill put a larger turbo in later on dwon the road. Any thoughts Mike

bobafett
08-14-2005, 09:33 AM
hey that sounds good. 250 whp will get u moving!

mykwikcoupe
08-14-2005, 10:16 AM
well the non lsd is probably going to kill me but well see. I think Im just going to install it and hope for the best. Ive done alot of homework so im sure it will work for a while if not longer.

mykwikcoupe
08-21-2005, 09:15 PM
yep all this weekend i managed to find a few hours to do some major work on the accord. The wifey kept hauling mme off to this soccer thingy where girls chase this round funny colored thing and try to kick it hard and often. I guess if you lose it in the bushes behind the line thats a good thing cause both teams would scream. Wow after reading what i typed, if anyone a little racial bias read that it could be taken the wrong way huh. Oh well.

Anyway the coupe has started the make-over process. I swapped the koni and sprint springs off the wrecked coupe onto this one. Of course i couldnt just leave the wrecked one on the ground so i had to put the wornout stockers back on so it wouldnt make my yard look like something from the bluecollor comedy tour.

After that was completed i put a 2.25 inch stainless mandrel bent exhaust from the cat back on with a dynomax muffler no resonator. Sounds nice but the engine noise mine is making really sounds bad so i cant get any recorded noise for anyone just yet. Its a little embarrasing.

And finally I did the sei rear disk break swap. Ill certainly say there should be a rating on the projects in the how to section with some sort of skill and difficulty ranking. Id rate thie rear disk swap right up there with an engine swap. Of course the car they came off must have spent alot of time on the east coast. The upper control arm ball joints castle nut was so rusted and gone I had to cut them off with ahacksaw because there wasnt enough left on it to get a socket on. Everything on it is rusted. I did the swap only to find out I need to rebiuld a caliper because the piston is seized and is currently making some god aweful smell and smoke from the rear. Gad it was only a test run.

Id have to say I pity all you poor fools that live on the east coast or any other state that salts there roads regulaly. Id never wrench again if i had to work on that kind of car. I was debating buying new and not even using the parts. Id consider myself very mechanically inclined and pretty good with tools so when i say oits tough and the car faught me the whole way thats just what i mean. Every bolt every nut all the linkanges. All rusted. anywho just thought some of you might like to know.

Next on the list is the transfer of all the jdm goodness from the wrecked car to the new coupe and then well start the engine swap and 5 speed tranny swap again. Hope i can get all that done ina weekend. I think so. Im gonna run my jdm b20a N/A for a while then bolt on the turbo. Should be nice huh. Mike

cubert
08-22-2005, 03:48 AM
yea..east coast rust isnt too much fun...but hey..you do waht you gotta do. Keep it up man..you made lotsa progress for one weekend...just get the good stuff in there and start having fun...oh..and first paragraph = :lol

Underdog
08-22-2005, 07:31 PM
According to carfax the Se-i was in New York until 1996. I had no idea how bad the rust was! Sorry to hear you had a hard time with it.

mykwikcoupe
08-26-2005, 10:50 PM
well my current turbo for my setup is a 42/48 50 trim. Kinda small but should be ok for street use. Im looking for a little help in the trubo selection equation for my application. Id like to see it in numbers rather than just "sure, itll work great" you know. Id like a larger turbo that spools as low as possible. I was thinking the gt28rs but Im not 100% sure. Price is a consideration but overall happiness is job 1 here right now. so heres what ive got

Im going to running 550 injectors
obd1 with uberdata
5 spped tranny with a quaife lsd unit
probably the stock a20a intake with some major porting and such done
Im not planning on revving past 7-8k ever so id like it spool lower and pull tough to where I stop it
Id love the car to run full ionterior low 11s but if not its cool it need to run at least a 12.50

Id like to be in the 300-350 range, the turbo needs to fit a standard t3 flange, Ill run whatever exhaustsize needed 2.5 or 3 inch, the engine will be biult pretty tough, resleeved, oringed,aftermarket pistons, rods, stud girdle, arp bolts wherever applicable, Im going to have a buch of headwork done, oversized valves stronger springs, maybe a regrind cams, basically i want to find the good setup and biuld accordingly. Im a little anal most of the time so it needs to make me happy. Ive redone this project 3 times now because im not totally satisfied. Wifeys getting pretty upset and says this is oing to be the last time. Lets make it a good one

Pro_Mod_Accord
09-08-2005, 11:41 AM
Hey You wanna sell that B20A and Tranny??Let me know....worth a try..LOL

mykwikcoupe
09-08-2005, 04:39 PM
sure send me a check for 1600 bucks

carotman
09-13-2005, 02:06 PM
I can say I live in one of the worst climate for cars on the planet.... and every bolt on my car was rusted. I got used to it and I don't mind anymore lol.

Just get some penetrating oil, a torch and a hammer.... it sucks.

Good to know your project is comming along.

thegreatdane
09-14-2005, 07:26 AM
I can say I live in one of the worst climate for cars on the planet....

Yea and I live in one of them too... I'm almost afraid to drive the car lol

A20A1
09-22-2005, 02:46 AM
well my current turbo for my setup is a 42/48 50 trim. Kinda small but should be ok for street use. Im looking for a little help in the trubo selection equation for my application. Id like to see it in numbers rather than just "sure, itll work great" you know. Id like a larger turbo that spools as low as possible. I was thinking the gt28rs but Im not 100% sure. Price is a consideration but overall happiness is job 1 here right now. so heres what ive got

Im going to running 550 injectors
obd1 with uberdata
5 spped tranny with a quaife lsd unit
probably the stock a20a intake with some major porting and such done
Im not planning on revving past 7-8k ever so id like it spool lower and pull tough to where I stop it
Id love the car to run full ionterior low 11s but if not its cool it need to run at least a 12.50

Id like to be in the 300-350 range, the turbo needs to fit a standard t3 flange, Ill run whatever exhaustsize needed 2.5 or 3 inch, the engine will be biult pretty tough, resleeved, oringed,aftermarket pistons, rods, stud girdle, arp bolts wherever applicable, Im going to have a buch of headwork done, oversized valves stronger springs, maybe a regrind cams, basically i want to find the good setup and biuld accordingly. Im a little anal most of the time so it needs to make me happy. Ive redone this project 3 times now because im not totally satisfied. Wifeys getting pretty upset and says this is oing to be the last time. Lets make it a good one



Someone posted this a while back.
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=45340

.
.
.

mykwikcoupe
12-01-2005, 09:03 PM
Ok so ive got in my hot little hands. a new in box presision t3/t4OE 60/63 with 54 trim, the precision 25x6x3.5 intercooler, all the origainl stuff the manifold and all that jazz. Ive got the uberdata obd1 stuff comming from a fellow member so i need a 92-93 teg dizzy, 550cc injectors and a lsd unit for the b20a. Everything is at the powdercoaters now getting the freshening treatment. Picks hopefully soon. cant wait to tune it on the dyno. I better run some damn good numbers real soon or its back to the thunderbird to me.

Anyway havent really spent much time on here mostly working 12 hour days for about a year and doing the family thing. I found out today Ive got some decent sized physical issues to deal with so i took the rest of the year off from work to see if it helps me out any.

Other than that itll give me alot of time to get thinkgs done around the house. Mike

b8er
12-02-2005, 12:27 AM
yup, im definatly jealous

AccordEpicenter
12-02-2005, 10:41 AM
do it right and thats 12 sec material all day long

bobafett
12-02-2005, 11:50 AM
beauty of a turbo. i have a garret t3/t04e 57 trim .63/.60 its a biggun. :D i think im going to run a potato on the accord though. muahahah

good luck with the project man, its about time the west coast gets some more boosted 3g action. :)

AccordEpicenter
12-02-2005, 11:58 AM
sell me your hybrid, then ;)

bobafett
12-02-2005, 12:10 PM
$400 shipped ($400 + shipping for non 3geez people). i paid $415 shipped, and did nothing but look at it lustfully all the time.

its a brand new turbo, just like what cheapturbo.com sells for $620
http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gat357trw63a.html

t3/t04e, t3 flange, 4 bolt discharge, no internal gate. :D

its ready to roll if you do actually want to buy it. and i can get u pics of course. :D

AccordEpicenter
12-02-2005, 01:57 PM
dood that is actually a really nice turbo and a good deal too. At this point, i have a T04E 60 trim compressor housing and backplate, all i need is a compressor wheel and i can go T3/T4 using my T3 60/63... im either gonna do that or go with somthing like you have...

bobafett
12-02-2005, 02:01 PM
cool, well its just hanging out in my garage at the moment, im not in a rush to get rid of it or anything. if you (or anyone else who reads this) want it, your more than welcome...

gfrg88
12-02-2005, 08:26 PM
kind of off topic and n00b turbo question, where can i find all this 60/63, trim, etc, info for different types of turbos at??

thanx guys and good luck on the build :rockon:

mykwikcoupe
12-03-2005, 09:51 AM
homemadeturbo.com Its a huge site just start reading about 2 years from now youll be as afluent as the rest ofus turbo dudes

gfrg88
12-03-2005, 10:26 AM
yeah i go there every now and then, i guess i just have to keep reading more then....

AccordEpicenter
12-04-2005, 08:56 AM
yeah i love HMT. I joined there a few weeks after they started

mykwikcoupe
12-22-2005, 12:19 AM
well today and tesreday I made pretty good progress. Got the sei interior out of the wrecked car and the top half installed in the new coupe. The bottom half is in the garage until I finish because Im going to run some wires and such.

I got the 5 speed swap in cab work done. I bough a 3rd kit just in case and opted to pull it off the wrecked car anyways. Man its tough to get things out of a twisted mangled metal slop. The pedals are in the engine and trans is just about ready to be pulled.

Ive taken all the vacuuum crap and thrown it on top of the a20a3 hopefully never to be used again. The location on the passenger side will be perfect for the msd 6al

otherwise Im hoping to have the b20a tranny apart next week getting the act clutch stuff in and a lsd unit. Im pretty disappointed that act doesnt offer a race sprung clutch. Ive got the street disk with extreme pressure plate and with the larger turbo and all Im thinking I should upgrade. My current clutch is rated for 300 ft lbs and if I went with a 4 or 6 puck id be rated 400 ft lbs. Im planning on making something in the 350+ hp range so im sure the 3000 torque will be close. Only saving grace will be the lag and all that torque wont be on till the cars moving.

getting pretty exited again for the prject and its a one way street now. no going back. Ill try really hard to get pics but usually when I working I just keep going till im out of light or its done then its not the best time for pics. you know. Id like to get at least 1 AOM win sometime

mykwikcoupe
12-23-2005, 12:23 AM
so I got the engine just about ready to pull. I get all the fluids out. everything else disconected, the entire exhaust dropped for ease of reinstall of new engine and low and behold what holds me up. Those damn axle hubs. Driver side came off pretty easy. Brole 4 1/2 ratchets on the passenger side. I got pissed and went to sears to exchange my busted ratchets for more cheap chinese tools and bought the IR 2135 impact gun. Rated 600 ft lbs with 1000 max. Im like yeah that should do it. 300 bucks later and its still on t here. So tomorrow when Im there getting more cheap chinese ratchets ill be getting a 1 1/4 3/4 drive socket and a slide bar. If that breaks im swapping the whole passenger side hub for the one off the wrecked car. Anyway engine should be out tomorrow. Ill keep anyone informed.

I called act clutch today and Im pretty unimpressed that I cannot get a race puck thats sprung which means I can either buy a different braand sprung puck and hope it works or go with an unsprung puck. This car will be a street car and Im not looking to make it any more difficult to drive.

thegreatdane
12-23-2005, 07:34 AM
You've got real nice plans for that engine! What pistons and rods will you be using? And which LSD do you have?

Unless your brakes doesnt work you should be able to get that sucker loose with a long breaker bar and a good quality strong socket. It's not unusual that they are so stuck that even a very strong impact gun doesnt break them loose.

And get some pics of something, anything!

carotman
12-23-2005, 10:18 AM
That happened to me once. The only way I could get that bolt out was with a dremel...

I basicaly grinded a fine line on the nut and cracked it open. Took me about 30 mins but it was only for the best.

mykwikcoupe
12-23-2005, 12:45 PM
yeah today i went out and got a 18 in 3/4 drive slidebar and a 1 1/4 12 point socket (I wanted the 6 point but didnt have it). Im going to try that and if that dont work Im gonna be a really unhappy camper.

Ill try to get pics Im hoping i remember and all. Ill probably lay it all out on the garage floor and snap a few. Ive gots tons-o-parts and all. Anyway hoping this thing comes off today. Mike

Deadhead
12-23-2005, 01:17 PM
wow... looks like someone has some money to burn...

but definately an awesome project. It's gonna be really fast, if you can hook up that is lol! You and accordepicenter both

How much boost do you plan on running into that B20? What compression ratio are you going to be running?

adams86lxi
12-23-2005, 02:22 PM
but definately an awesome project. It's gonna be really fast, if you can hook up that is lol! You and accordepicenter both


shit you have no idea how much a lack of traction sucks. I was going threw 2 tires a week. YES 2 FUCKING TIRES A WEEK. When my accord was running.

And no i wasnt going around doing burnouts or anything. I would simply street race it on the weekends and i couldnt hook up worth a shit too the point i was destroying tires constantly.

Accordtheory
12-23-2005, 06:15 PM
I got pissed and went to sears to exchange my busted ratchets for more cheap chinese tools and bought the IR 2135 impact gun. Rated 600 ft lbs with 1000 max. Im like yeah that should do it. 300 bucks later and its still on t here.
I called act clutch today and Im pretty unimpressed that I cannot get a race puck thats sprung which means I can either buy a different braand sprung puck and hope it works or go with an unsprung puck. This car will be a street car and Im not looking to make it any more difficult to drive.

That gun is the titanium one, right? That's the same one I have, and I have never encountered a bolt I couldn't take off with that thing. You're having trouble taking off the nuts on the ends of the axles? Put the gun on the axles, pull the trigger, and watch your air compressor output pressure at the regulator drop to shit. Then adjust your regulator so your hose has 90-100 psi under load and watch the gun tear the shit out of the axle nut like it's nothing. (your wheel is still on, right?)

I talked to several different clutch manufacturers, and attempted to start a thread on H-T about sprung vs unsprung. What the manufacturers said was that the sprung hub reduces harmonics, vibration, whatever from getting into the tranny. They said the unsprung disc would "hum". Upon acceleration, the difference is negligible though, because supposedly the springs bottom out. That also supposedly happens when you are letting out the clutch. They did Not specify exactly how much torque it takes to do that, though. So the sprung hub does not help "driveability". And it is also harder on the synchros by just adding to the mass that they have to slow upon shifts. I have the action 2ms, and that sprung disk is damn heavy. I kinda wish I had gone with the 2md. (integra b series shit)

mykwikcoupe
12-23-2005, 11:02 PM
yeah its the titanium one. Ive been looking at it for quite some time. Ive got a 80 gal craftsman 125 psi oilfree compressor. It was a ouse warming gift from the dad in law. I had it on fulll output and nothing. Ill try putting the gun under load and set it that way.

I did get the damn bolt off. It took a 3/4 slide bar that I bent about 20 degrees and me bouncing up and down on a 4 foot bar. I had a friend hold the brakes since the car is off the ground. Im glad its off and ive got the tools to do just about anything now.

yeah if youve ever driven a car with an unsprung clutch even if you just easy it out at idle hows it engage and all? I dont want the sudden jerk every time I start on the street but want it to hold up to the 3500 rpm drops off the drag line

Hash_man_Se_i
12-23-2005, 11:39 PM
Sounds like a wicked car in the making, be sure to post up pics.

yeah if youve ever driven a car with an unsprung clutch even if you just easy it out at idle hows it engage and all? I dont want the sudden jerk every time I start on the street but want it to hold up to the 3500 rpm drops off the drag line

My friend has an unsprung clutch in his BMW, and its really hard to engage without it being really jerky, I really don't know about engaging at idle, but once you get the hang of it its not bad at all.

Accordtheory
12-24-2005, 12:24 PM
yeah its the titanium one. Ive been looking at it for quite some time. Ive got a 80 gal craftsman 125 psi oilfree compressor. It was a ouse warming gift from the dad in law. I had it on fulll output and nothing. Ill try putting the gun under load and set it that way.
I did get the damn bolt off. It took a 3/4 slide bar that I bent about 20 degrees and me bouncing up and down on a 4 foot bar. I had a friend hold the brakes since the car is off the ground. Im glad its off and ive got the tools to do just about anything now.
yeah if youve ever driven a car with an unsprung clutch even if you just easy it out at idle hows it engage and all? I dont want the sudden jerk every time I start on the street but want it to hold up to the 3500 rpm drops off the drag line

You had the regulator at Full output and nothing? When I bought my titanium impact gun, I was like wtf..? when I tried to pull off a crank pulley/harmonic dampener bolt and it couldn't do it. So then I rolled the compressor over by me, and watched the output pressure drop to like 60-70 psi when I tried to do it. I then turned the regulator up until I had about 90-100 under load, and the bolt came off with just a couple bumps of the trigger. Another thing I've noticed is that gun has to break itself in. (and you should oil it through the air inlet port too) I know that sounds weird about the break in, but I seriously believe it. I can easily take an axle nut off now without even bothering to pry up the hammered flat part of the nut. Having the wheel on the car also makes it easier, more mass for the impact to fight against.

About the clutch, basically all I was saying is that the compound of the disc has a lot more to do with the how hard it is to engage smoothly than if it's sprung. It makes sense if you think about it, just compare how many revolutions the clutch slips as you pull away from a stop vs how many degrees of rotation the springs can absorb. Make sense? The springs just dampen vibration from getting into the tranny under cruising, maybe soft acceleration. But I doubt that really extends tranny life overall, honda trannies usually wear out synchros before anything else, right? And a heavy sprung disk is harder on the synchros..

I would say that the reason people think an unsprung clutch is harder to drive is that by the time you're getting into unsprung disks, they're already using a race type compound. I think my clutch is going to suck for street driving, but I'm not enough of a baller to get a twin disk..supposedly it has a better compound that what act uses, at least. I have read a lot about act disks chewing up flywheels and pressure plates, the action clutch is supposedly easier on them, and easier to drive too. We'll see..

mykwikcoupe
12-31-2005, 12:05 PM
well my a20a3 is out and away from the car and Ill say the engine bay is huge when you remove that huge waste of space. Anyway Im going to start cleaning today and see where that leads. Im waiting for the lsd to show up and install that. Im gpropbably going to tear into the b20a and replace the clutch and pressure plate and all today or tomorrow. I need to tear off the intake and exhaust manifolds and such anyway. Im just going to use a stock jdm b16a intake with port matching done. That should be here next week sometime. christmas really messes up the postal system huh.

The air gun took nothing to take off the balancer bolt was definatly impressed there. My tank is capable of 14.5 cfm at 90 psi but with a full tank it should put out the limiting factor of the 1/2 supply line or whatever the gun draws. Im pretty happy with it overall. Minus the axle nuts its made super easy work of everything else Ive thrown at it. Ill take some pics and see if i can figure out how to size them to be seen on the computer and all. Ill send them to ryan to host for me if hes up to it. Hope everyone had a nice holiday season. Mike

mykwikcoupe
01-01-2006, 11:55 PM
so I pull off the xhaust and mount up the exhaust manifold. The flange could use a little porting on one side to make it an exact fit but I figure hey its close enogh for right now. I pull off the tranny and 3 bolts later it fits the ground. Im like WTF!!!!!! Thats not supposed to happen. good thing my toes werent under there. I think for a second and what do you think I saw. Well if you guess my complete b20a didnt have a flywheel of clutch youd be correct there mister. So I guess afterall Ill be buying a lightweight findanza afterall. Im not sure but it seems carot seems to be the only person with the ring gear issue so Ill just not use that manufacture and see if it comes up with the same issue or not. Im pulling the intake tomorrow and cleaning it up nice and shiny.

I took about 30 minutes and cleaned out the engine bay spick and san so its uberclean now. Ill take a bunch of pics but like I said im known for getting arried away and forgetting. if anyone has a jdm b20a flywheel they want to get ride of Ill cetainly take it.

mykwikcoupe
01-01-2006, 11:55 PM
so I pull off the xhaust and mount up the exhaust manifold. The flange could use a little porting on one side to make it an exact fit but I figure hey its close enogh for right now. I pull off the tranny and 3 bolts later it fits the ground. Im like WTF!!!!!! Thats not supposed to happen. good thing my toes werent under there. I think for a second and what do you think I saw. Well if you guess my complete b20a didnt have a flywheel of clutch youd be correct there mister. So I guess afterall Ill be buying a lightweight findanza afterall. Im not sure but it seems carot seems to be the only person with the ring gear issue so Ill just not use that manufacture and see if it comes up with the same issue or not. Im pulling the intake tomorrow and cleaning it up nice and shiny.

I took about 30 minutes and cleaned out the engine bay spick and san so its uberclean now. Ill take a bunch of pics but like I said im known for getting arried away and forgetting. if anyone has a jdm b20a flywheel they want to get ride of Ill cetainly take it.

mykwikcoupe
01-06-2006, 08:15 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-89-Accord-arm-rest-console-cup-holder-black-armrest_W0QQitemZ8026694166QQcategoryZ33695QQcmdZV iewItem well sorry if I outbid anyone or anything but I really wanted this part. Its one of the few to complete the sei interior that didnt make it through the wreck.

So I changed my mind and the exhaust manifold is port matched. The jdm b16 intake should be showing up soon. The obd1 swap is in complete peices just waiting to be installed. Im going to go with the mechanical gauges and stainless steel lines so I feel comfortable and all. Im getting the lines and fittings from tunertoys if anyone is curious. The interior is going to be the first to be completed as everything seems to be going in that direction naturally. So full sei interior swap. cascade audio sound deadener all over the place. Ill put my sound system Ive got now in there and wait to upgrade again later. Im using streetwires zn6 series stuff instead of the monstercable 401xln. Ive got those incase i change my mind. Man Im so pumped right now. Mike

mykwikcoupe
01-09-2006, 10:00 PM
ok so got the seats swapped out and found out something in case it comes up. The passenger seat belt wont plug into the seatblet of a coupe seat ifs from a sedan. Not sure about the other waya round but this is true. Also found out the best way to take out the torks bits bolts in the sill plates is with a #40 torxs bit and an impact gun. I broke 3 bits before I finally put it in my gun and just like everything else the gun took it right out no effort and no broken bit. I did all 3 of my cars and no problems with this method. Id recommend it from here on out

mykwikcoupe
01-11-2006, 11:16 PM
ok so i bought a new a20a intake gasket and it turns out you have to redrill the top 5 holes. the farthest right hole is close enough to be hogged out but for perfectionistic reasons Im going to have the original hole welded up and then redrilled. Ill do the same with the far left hole that is actually a water jacket and needs to be filled before it can be drilled. Ive never worked with JB weld or Kwik-weld so Im just going the absolute way. Im still pondering if its worth it cut the jdm flange the same shape as the a20a flange. It will be thin in places but still strong. Ill have to trace it out and see.

89T
02-11-2012, 07:39 PM
I am bumping every old turbo thread. Is it running or gone.