guaynabo89
06-23-2003, 06:15 AM
As some of you already know I managed to fit the rear aem upgrade kit from a civic/ teg to my car. The kit I used is meant for the 90-01 Integra (not type R) and 92-95 civics EX, Si.
Not too much has to be done to get the kit to fit, it is more involved than getting the front kit to fit though. You have to modify the relocation bracket that comes with the kit and do a little work to the hub for the bracket to fit.
Lets start with what you have to do to to the braket to be able to use it. First off the civics and tegs rear calipers use a wider bolt spacing than the SEi. Luckily enough the bracket have enough space for you to put another set of holes with the correct spacing for the SEi caliper. The arrows marked number 1 in the first picture show the exra holes that have to be made. This must be done by a machine shop or someone who has the proper tools because one of the holes is threaded for the bolt to hold the bracet on. Not to mention if you try doing this yourself you can put the holes out of place which will cause braking problems.
The second thing you have to do to the bracket is take a little bit of material off since the caliper will no longer be perfectly centered. This is shown by arrow number 2. The blue dotted line represents how much material was taken off.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pbdce1f1f9d9c24b21b0ca3c8b77abe2f/fbdbd280.jpg
Next you have to modify the hub in order to fit the bracket properly. First you have to grind off a little bit of material from the outside edge of the brake mounting tabs shown in this picture by the blue arrows. The blue line represents the mouting brackets inner edge. This must be done to make the holes line up properly. If you do not do this the braket will be pushed away from the hub and the bracket holes and hub calibper mounting holes will not line up.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pcb5511896d349339cc1f36f61ef1eb0f/fbdbd276.jpg
Another thing you have to do to the rear hub is smooth out the rear surface which is where the caliper relocation bracket will bolt up to. If you look at this next picture you will notice 2 recessed bolt holes shown in the blue circles. That's where the bolts that that hold on the rear caliper go through.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pcf94a29da033a9c28726435e5de042e2/fbdbd272.jpg
You have to make this area flat for the braket to fit. You will have to grind down to the same level as the recessed holes. When done it looks like this.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pe2b33f3a8efdbafbce92e2eb8410672a/fbdbd279.jpg
Again I suggest you have this done by someone who knows what they are doing. If too much material is taken off or the surface isn't perfectly flat it will cause improper pad wear or less braking. If you don't have acces to a machine shop this can be done with a grinding stone, but only if you are very well experienced with this type of work.
When you mount the bracket to the hub you will use the side with the original set of holes on the top and the side with the holes you machined in towards the bottom. Heres a picture of what it looks like mounted. Sorry for te poor quality. The number 1 points to the set of holes you have put in and the number 2 is the original set of holes. You can see how the braket will over hang a little towars the bottom , but there s no clearance problem at all.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p34f08bf328e583148b496f174c608194/fbdbb84e.jpg
Thats basicly it. You use the same bolts that come with the kit, slap on the rotor, and bolt you caliper back up.
One more thing, you have to take the nut that holds the ebrake cable to the swing arm off to get enough slack. i din't put that nut back on cause the caliper being spaced back puts enough tension on the cable to keep it from hanging down.
Heres a before pic
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p62296082563ac40db4798bddef7b9d25/fbfd6bf5.jpg
and an after pic
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p23edabd27401d1a3d6d10f73a6d82258/fbfd7034.jpg
Not too much has to be done to get the kit to fit, it is more involved than getting the front kit to fit though. You have to modify the relocation bracket that comes with the kit and do a little work to the hub for the bracket to fit.
Lets start with what you have to do to to the braket to be able to use it. First off the civics and tegs rear calipers use a wider bolt spacing than the SEi. Luckily enough the bracket have enough space for you to put another set of holes with the correct spacing for the SEi caliper. The arrows marked number 1 in the first picture show the exra holes that have to be made. This must be done by a machine shop or someone who has the proper tools because one of the holes is threaded for the bolt to hold the bracet on. Not to mention if you try doing this yourself you can put the holes out of place which will cause braking problems.
The second thing you have to do to the bracket is take a little bit of material off since the caliper will no longer be perfectly centered. This is shown by arrow number 2. The blue dotted line represents how much material was taken off.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pbdce1f1f9d9c24b21b0ca3c8b77abe2f/fbdbd280.jpg
Next you have to modify the hub in order to fit the bracket properly. First you have to grind off a little bit of material from the outside edge of the brake mounting tabs shown in this picture by the blue arrows. The blue line represents the mouting brackets inner edge. This must be done to make the holes line up properly. If you do not do this the braket will be pushed away from the hub and the bracket holes and hub calibper mounting holes will not line up.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pcb5511896d349339cc1f36f61ef1eb0f/fbdbd276.jpg
Another thing you have to do to the rear hub is smooth out the rear surface which is where the caliper relocation bracket will bolt up to. If you look at this next picture you will notice 2 recessed bolt holes shown in the blue circles. That's where the bolts that that hold on the rear caliper go through.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pcf94a29da033a9c28726435e5de042e2/fbdbd272.jpg
You have to make this area flat for the braket to fit. You will have to grind down to the same level as the recessed holes. When done it looks like this.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pe2b33f3a8efdbafbce92e2eb8410672a/fbdbd279.jpg
Again I suggest you have this done by someone who knows what they are doing. If too much material is taken off or the surface isn't perfectly flat it will cause improper pad wear or less braking. If you don't have acces to a machine shop this can be done with a grinding stone, but only if you are very well experienced with this type of work.
When you mount the bracket to the hub you will use the side with the original set of holes on the top and the side with the holes you machined in towards the bottom. Heres a picture of what it looks like mounted. Sorry for te poor quality. The number 1 points to the set of holes you have put in and the number 2 is the original set of holes. You can see how the braket will over hang a little towars the bottom , but there s no clearance problem at all.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p34f08bf328e583148b496f174c608194/fbdbb84e.jpg
Thats basicly it. You use the same bolts that come with the kit, slap on the rotor, and bolt you caliper back up.
One more thing, you have to take the nut that holds the ebrake cable to the swing arm off to get enough slack. i din't put that nut back on cause the caliper being spaced back puts enough tension on the cable to keep it from hanging down.
Heres a before pic
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p62296082563ac40db4798bddef7b9d25/fbfd6bf5.jpg
and an after pic
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p23edabd27401d1a3d6d10f73a6d82258/fbfd7034.jpg