PDA

View Full Version : Types of Oil?



Chris86Lxi
06-10-2002, 03:46 PM
I was wondering what type of oil i should use for my car? What do you guys think is the best oil for our cars if you run them hard more often than not? Something not to high in price either. Not that 5 bucks a quart shit.
Thanks,

Chris

CoAsTeR
06-10-2002, 03:49 PM
stick with genuine Honda Oil. 5w30 if your motor is lower miles is recommended. Some say that if you have a higher mileage motor to run 10w30 since it is slightly thicker and won't burn as easily from what I understand.

Personally I run pennzoil since when I get it done at walmart they include 4mnths roadside assistance which has been paying off for me since I've had it.

A20A1
06-10-2002, 05:44 PM
My rev hard motor oil is:
Mobile 1 / 20w-50
or
Valvoline VR1 Racing oil / 20w-50

B&M trick shift fluid for the auto comin soon. :)

POS carb
06-10-2002, 05:47 PM
Mobile Driveclean or Castrol drive hard (real cheap at Costco!) 10W30 on a 219k mile motor

1988starter
06-10-2002, 05:52 PM
I am a penzoil kind of guy 10w 30 with 1 bottle of stp 4 cyl engine treatment.

Chris86Lxi
06-10-2002, 07:21 PM
I've been using Penzoil 5w30 but i think i'm gonna change to Castrol GTX 10w30. I want to step it up a notch, plus i'm at like 145,000 miles, which ain't real high, but i noticed that my oil burns quicker with the 5w30 shit. This change from Penzoil 5w30 to Castrol GTX 10w30 won't hurt my car will it? I'm also gonna add some engine cooling shit to it from advance auto so it runs cooler b/c right now it runs a little hot.

Thanks,

Chris

CARBurn
06-10-2002, 07:44 PM
My brand of oil-Synthetic pennzoil 10w30

A20A1
06-10-2002, 08:00 PM
wow it must be cold if you use 5w 30

I was told that the 5 is the actual weight of the oil.... the 30 is the range that the oil imitates.

5w acts and or protects like a 30w

but I could be wrong. :confused:

A20A1
06-10-2002, 08:03 PM
thats why you'll never see 30w-30... instead it just says 30

I found a 20w-60 the other day... hmm maybe I should mix some in with the oil that has been burning off lately.

smufguy
06-10-2002, 09:29 PM
i use castrol. they are really good. no thermal breakdown and $1.67 in walmart. reall cheap and real quality.

ACCORD EX
06-11-2002, 12:32 AM
i used to use regular oil now i use synthetic and wow ! what a difference , any way i use mobil 1 with a genuine Honda oil filter ! !


MIKE

OldSchoolSwap
06-11-2002, 08:01 AM
I use Moblie1 Fully synthetic oil. (not cheap) sorry! But if you care about your engine, only the best will do.;)

88DXcoupe
06-11-2002, 08:23 AM
quaker state synthetic 10w30 high performance blend (about $2.50 a quart) and a cheap fram filter. I have 149,000 on mine.

Jareds 89 LX-i
06-11-2002, 09:08 AM
I use Mobil 1 full synthetic with a genuine Honda filter. Not cheap, but I like to treat her well, and she treats me well in return. 293k miles on my motor and burns no oil :)

OldSchoolSwap
06-11-2002, 12:23 PM
Originally posted by Jareds 89 LX-i
I use Mobil 1 full synthetic with a genuine Honda filter. Not cheap, but I like to treat her well, and she treats me well in return. 293k miles on my motor and burns no oil :) Wow! Synthetic goes a long way don't it?

CARBurn
06-11-2002, 12:37 PM
Speaking of filters, just what type of oil filters do all of you use? I like to use a mobil 1 filter.

smufguy
06-11-2002, 12:56 PM
i use fram Xtra guard. Damn u sythetic guys, got lotsa money. heheh, i wanna try that next time i change oil. a bit expensive, but i wanna see how it performs. :)

Jdub07
06-11-2002, 01:00 PM
Castrol GTX 10w30 is what I have always used. I pretty much was under the impression that synthetic oil was for HIGH performance cars? In detail how does your car benefit from synthetic and what are the draw backs?? 200,000miles on my ride.

CARBurn
06-11-2002, 07:17 PM
Actually I'm running castrol Gtx 10w30 now, I put it in after doing my motor swap. The motor I had before had 200K+ miles on it and I was using pennzoil synthetic 5w30.

With the synthetic, the engine to me ran a little smoother and it cut down on oil consumption. I rather pay for the extra protection that comes with synthetic motor oil.

89LXi
06-12-2002, 05:05 AM
AMSOIL Series 2000 0W-30 and AMSOIL SDF-36 oil filter. Change the filter at 6 months and the oil & filter annually.

I drive about 15,000 miles per year which would be 5 oil changes if I did them at 3000 mile intervals. It comes out cheaper in the long run. For 5 quarts of oil and 2 oil filters, I pay about $60 and it takes about 30 minutes each time I crawl under the car. Plus, I'm only putting 5 quarts of oil and 2 filters into recycling vesus 20 quarts and 5 filters if I were using dino oil. Saving time, money and the environment plus I'm reducing the amount of foreign oil that has to come into the USA.

smufguy
06-12-2002, 07:29 AM
and you have a foreign car :rolleyes:

POS carb
06-12-2002, 09:15 AM
are you saying you change your oil once a year? :confused:

89LXi
06-13-2002, 05:22 AM
Yes, I change oil and filter once a year. AMSOIL guarantees the oil to perform for one year or 35,000 miles, whichever comes first. They had the first API approved motor oil in 1972, which was 4 years before Mobil 1 was introduced. I also do oil analysis to monitor the oil from time to time. I was able to diagnose an EGR problem that had not thrown any codes or caused any performance problems from the report.

I may have a Japanese-made car but, that has nothing to do with imported oil. Most of the gasoline and other petroleum products used in the US are produced from imported oil. It seems to me that most of the oil producing countries have been producing terrorsists as easily as oil. Just trying to take a little money out of their hands and keep it in the US.

carbed86lx
06-13-2002, 09:32 AM
I change my oil twice a year . I put 25,000 miles on my car a year.
I use Castrol Syntec 5w30 Year round and it works great. In my mind synthetic oil is the way to go because i can spend 50 bucks on fliters and oil a year compared to about 80 bucks on castrol gtx and fliters.:cool:

Jdub07
06-13-2002, 10:01 AM
I change mine every 3000 miles or every 3 months whatever comes first. YOU CAN NEVER EVER EVER EVER CHANGE YOUR OIL TOO OFTEN. If you had the ability to change your oil everyday your car would last until the end of time or at least until the day you die. (granted you treat it with proper care and do hit trees in cemetaries!)

ACCORD EX
06-13-2002, 10:32 AM
i use Mobile 1 with a genuine filter and i change it every 10000km and when draining it i can see that the oil can last more but i just do it and the filter too !

MIKE

OldSchoolSwap
06-13-2002, 02:36 PM
Mobil 1 Synth. every 3 to 4k with PureOne filter every time. I don't believe in having "mud" in your engine for a freaking year!!! Do you know how much chemicals and dirt get piled up in there?
Its like having a sand paper in your engine.:stick:
You guys do what you think is best, but i'm sticking to my plan, it hasn't failed me yet.;)

kevins89lxi
06-15-2002, 08:47 AM
I am using Royal Purple syn and it is really great!! The car revs faster and I have noticed a little in hp and fuel milage. Check it out at Royalpurple.com

dosh8er
06-15-2002, 02:39 PM
Tsk tsk tsk... I hate you all. Listen to some of you with conventional oils! "I go 2 times a year with synthetic" MY ASS! you retard! Jdub07 is correct, you can't change your oil too much. You people who wait more than 3k or so on your oil, you owe your car! Conventional oil AS WELL as synthetic oil BREAK DOWN. That means, the lubrication properties of your oil, detergents that individual manufacturers put in there, and the molecular properties of the oil diminish over a period of time. Even if you run synthetic oil, which is good for the fact that all the molecules are made in a lab (which is why it costs upwards of 2.50+ dollars) and resist breakdown greater than conventional oils, you NEED to change your oil around 3k. Don't listen to the manufacturer, they want to sell you a new car/engine (5k is way too long).
Conventional oils are good for those of you who want to be cheap. (that's fine) I personally would recommend synthetic (only good for those of you who don't have any leaks, as the molecules are smaller and tend to warrant leaks) if you have the money, it's really good protection. But what I really recommend is something new that Quaker State as well as Castrol (there may be others, these are the only ones i know of) has brought to market, it's called Higher Milage oil. It's a 10w30 weight, and it's meant for cars like ours. It's meant for cars with 75k+ miles on them. It's a heavier 10w30, yes believe it or not, these weights have different weights. And the major thing that this high milage stuff has is additives that help engine seals, seats, and such (they are called esters.. i'd presume sort of along the lines of the stuff in AC systems, an ester additive). This stuff is the shiznit in my opinion, only because I've seen it help lower consumption on a friend of mine's car by many quarts every fill-up on gas (it was getting really bad). This oil is 10w30, and is, like I said, heavier than normal 10w30 oils. There are actual tolerances that 10w30 oils like i said, the ranges are wider or more narrow, it depends. (this stuff is a little bit higher on the scale)

BTW, Amsoil/TRC/anything else like that is totally different, I've heard only good things about it, but again, it's cha-ching! If you wanna try it, talk to the Amsoil/TRC advocates (god only knows who they are, I know of one locally, but that may not help, due to the fact I live in the sticks) they can really get you hooked up, and give a lot of info on the stuff. I'd believe in it, but I'm a little bit too poor.

Now, any oil has a weight to it. Let's get this straight. The lower that number oil, like 5w30, that is the lower viscocity, a nice technical term for saying simply that the resistance is greater. Think of it like putting a drop of honey or molasses in your hand, rubbing it together, vs. water, or motor oil. Less friction. Well, I'll give a little table of weights I've personally seen:

0w30 (or 20? cant' remember)
5w20
5w30
10w30
10w40
15w40
20w50
20w
30w
(there are many more, these are a few more heard of, there are a few other odd-ball/specialty weights)

Yes, the 0w30 is rare, I believe the engineers are still working with that one. Ok, 5w20 is a very thin oil, used in new hondas, and fords (from '00 on for ford, a year or so earlier for honda). Engineers thought they could increase efficency with a thinner oil, since less friction/resistance, parts would move easier, and oil could still lubricate, increasing mpg (or kpg .. kpL everywhere else). That is kinda dumb, but if the car's under warranty, use the recommendation. You see the problem with these lower weight oils like 5w20 and 5w30 is that they tend to 'break down', which means, they loose their lubricative properties, thus making them useless. (I think 5w30 is becoming a better oil as they develop it more, less likely to break down, still not as good as ol' 10w30) This 'break down' is common in high heat conditions, and extended driving/friction (mostly heat).
10w30 is probably the most common oil today, unless you talk to diesel owners. So think molasses/honey and water. Water is very light, molasses/honey very heavy.

BTW, just for the record, ATF/ATF3(4), or automatic transmission fluid, the stuff that normal domestic vehicles (like ford, chevy, chrysler/dodge, gm, etc) use this fluid. I'm not suggesting ATF for anybody with an auto, but, just to let you know, ATF/+/3/4 is the equivalant of a 5w30 weight oil. Not that you should run 5w30 in your auto, that would not be good, since there are MANY more things in ATF than regular oil. (so mixing ATF in oil, like a pint, is not going to kill your engine)

It's not good to add different brands of oils. Not all oils are created the same. Penzoil has stuff different than Castrol different than Quaker State, different than Valvoline different than Mobil 1. The key thing here is that they use different detergents. These are additives to the oil to do various things. A mixture of 2 diff. oils can be bad, it can cause sludge in your engine, since some/most of the detergents from brand to brand react with each other. SO try to stick with a brand, all of the API seal-o-approval'd ones are good.

No, Quaker State does NOT cause sludge like the claims of yore. Yes QS has parafin in it, READ THIS! EVERY ENGINE OIL HAS PARAFIN IN IT! Parafin DOES NOT CAUSE SLUDGE. Oils contain a substance called parafin, which has to do with the molecular stucture and the composition, and other crazy technical crap. Parafin is in wax, but wax is not in parafin. Wax is NOT in your motor oil. The engineers and companies have really been doing their research! So Quaker State IS A GOOD oil. (for all you old timers who think otherwise, you can pucker up kiss mine.. You're full of it, you don't know what you're talking about, it was THEN, not NOW!) (end of rant on old timers condemning QS)

Oil filters.. I *should* know more about them, but sadly I don't have as much insight on them as oil of today's market. I do know that if you pay $5 for a filter, you're getting raped. Yes, it will filter out to a certain micron, blah blah blah, but it's just like selection of your brand of oil: preference. Most/all oil filters are pretty good, if they weren't you'd see some lawsuits, and they wouldn't be selling them! Granted, there are some cool new colors that I think are sweet looking that they make them in now, and some crazy insane filter that will catch a mosquito's fart at 100 paces. But, if you buy a reasonable filter, it'll do you a good job. Don't think you can get away with that crappy filter you bought for a buck... that just isn't good, unless you just don't care. (What's with this HO-nda crap? Just because the dealer sells you a filter for $10, doesn't mean you have to buy it! sometimes aftermarket is just as good or better. AND nobody can see your friggin filter anyways, it's on the back and bottom of your engine! ooh! you've got a genuine filter! you're special) (end of another much needed rant)

I do not appologize for any toes I may have stepped on in this post, it needs to be said, newbies and moldies alike need to know, need to hear. You can ignore me, but not the facts. Innaccuracies are due to this damn twitch in my upper body.

I USE: (now) Castrol 10w30 Higher Milage. (I used to use regular 10w30 Castrol, it's good stuff IMO) Filter: Fram/Purolator/whatever is currently in stock on the filter shelf at store, or whatever I can grab from work. (don't steal from work, get an employee discount!)
I have: 186526 miles. I'm the second owner. I'm going for 200k.. and then 300k (just to rub it into those honda-hating rednecks at work)

A20A1
06-15-2002, 08:24 PM
I've upped my oil to 60... and it doesn't burn as much... the pensoil 10w-30 they just stuck in yesterday started to leak out real easy... grrrr... I need to find my damn leak... i need to gain access to a lift so I don't have to stick my clostraphobic a$$ under the car... I get neck cramps and well you just don't have room to manuever, even with jack stands set to the highest point.

CARBurn
06-15-2002, 08:48 PM
Well, um dosh8er, that was well, informative.eek:

All I knew about oil was the 5w30 flows better in cold weather, while 10w30 is like for all season. :) Goes to show what I know:huh:

1988starter
06-16-2002, 08:14 AM
I have recently changed Oil stuff
Now I ust 3 quarts of penzoil 10w 30 and 1 quart of lucas lube that stuff is likethe god of oil about 7 bucks a bottle helps with cold starts a lot much smother car now I also love their MTL