CD player problem. HELP

[pimp86LX]

Hmmmk so i am driving down the road today blastin the music away when all of a sudden something really funny happens to the sound. Its hard to describe.....almost like a bad FM radio station, ya know barely coming in. The bass and bottom end arn't there and its kind of snowy/crackly. It only happens at higher volumes (only after 20 on the deck) and it doesn't matter if the amp is on or off. I don't really know what could cause it. Any ideas? The wiring to the battery is good, as is the ground. Im going to take the deck out and check the wiring harness, but do you guys think it could be the deck? Its played flawlessly for over a year and 1/2.

[shepherd79]

what kind deck do you have?
Most likely it is your deck. probably something inside burned out.

[pimp86LX]

its a kenwood. I took it out of the dash and made sure all the speaker wires were ok and hooked it back up and it works fine.(not in the dash but sitting onthe seat) I suspect that a couple speakers wires were too close(around the connections). Mabe some underdash component made some electrical noise or the speaker wires shorted out or something. eitherway it doesn't do it with just the deck, my next step is to hook the pre-outs back up and see if that makes a difference.

[HostileJava]

How many amps do you have and what is running off the head unit and what is amplified? Sounds like you may be just draining the battery and the alt isn't putting out enough current. Does the disruption go away if you turn the volume down? Is it happening all the time or only after playing for a while?

[pimp86LX]

1 300w amp.

2 pioneer 6x9s and 2 factory 4x6 speakers. I took it out of the dash and the problem went away. However now when i put it back in theres no sound at all. It turns out that when you squeeze the back of the h/u, all sound cuts out. when you let go everything is fine. I cant see were anything could be shorting out.

Of course this has to happen just after the warrenty expries.:rant: :mad:

[pimp86LX]

well thats just great. It doesn't work at all now. Its toast. im fucking PISSED :mad: :rant: :burn:

[zero.counter]

Its EBAY Time!

[pimp86LX]

too bad im broke.


this couldn't have happened at a worse time

[HostileJava]

Take it apart and see if the circuit board has a crack where you were flexing it. If so you can repair it. Just find where the crack is(easy if you have a multimeter and can check for continuity between components), scrape off the coating on top either side of the crack, and soldier a piece of wire to connect each line that you scraped the coating off of. Remember sometimes these cracks are very minute and hard to spot without magnification.

[zero.counter]

Make sure that you disconnect the negative cable from the battery when working on your car stereo, I cannot stress that enough.

I tell you what, check your fuses, both the ones on the deck and the car's. If they are good, then check the 12volt switched (red) for continuity or the inline fuse (if it has one). Then the memory cable (constant, yellow) for continuity. Then reground to the chassis, scuff with some number 200grit on the back where the radio sits for a good ground. If it is still not working, and the car starts up, then make sure the speaker leads are not crossing. i heard you say that you were using the pre-amps. Does the head unit cut out the speaker leads while the RCAs are in use or use both? Either way, make clean connections, make sure the wire harness has no loose leads, and if you do manage to get power, hit the reset button (if it has one). Worst case scenario, sell it to a pawn shop or put a "FREE" sign by it on the curb.

[shepherd79]

the other thing could be that your wire harness is shorting out. i had the same problem on my junk Blaupunkt radio.
see if the wire pins are tight and don't move around.

the other thing, you can try taking it apart and see what is the deal with it.

[pimp86LX]

everythings fine. the deck is toast. Im no audio newb.

I dug up my recipts and my i bought the extra retailers warrenty so im going tommorow to get it replaced.

[HostileJava]

Originally posted by zero.counter
Make sure that you disconnect the negative cable from the battery when working on your car stereo, I cannot stress that enough.

I tell you what, check your fuses, both the ones on the deck and the car's. If they are good, then check the 12volt switched (red) for continuity or the inline fuse (if it has one). Then the memory cable (constant, yellow) for continuity. Then reground to the chassis, scuff with some number 200grit on the back where the radio sits for a good ground. If it is still not working, and the car starts up, then make sure the speaker leads are not crossing. i heard you say that you were using the pre-amps. Does the head unit cut out the speaker leads while the RCAs are in use or use both? Either way, make clean connections, make sure the wire harness has no loose leads, and if you do manage to get power, hit the reset button (if it has one). Worst case scenario, sell it to a pawn shop or put a "FREE" sign by it on the curb.

I don't want to start anything again, but I don't think it has anything to do with outside wiring if he can squeeze the back of the headunit and get it to work.

[HostileJava]

Guess the point is mute now anyway.

[pimp86LX]

thanks though hostile ;)

[zero.counter]

Originally posted by HostileJava
I don't want to start anything again, but I don't think it has anything to do with outside wiring if he can squeeze the back of the headunit and get it to work.
Here you go starting your shit again. Some inexperienced install techs would be quick to assume that the H/U is defective without performing the procedural analysis I indicated as far as troubleshooting stands. You have to rule out all possibilites before coming to a conclusion. You just can't "PASS THE BUCK" on diagnosing. Also read his first posts, about when it worked fine as it sat outside the mounting area , usually indicating a shorted or bad connection.

taking the H/U apart, especially if you are not sure of even working on electrical components (which he may or may not be, technically astute that is), is a last resort.

CASE CLOSED: He edited his post, so no need to continue, your welcome anyone BTW. :D

[87DXHatch]

Originally posted by HostileJava
I don't want to start anything again, but I don't think it has anything to do with outside wiring if he can squeeze the back of the headunit and get it to work.

I know it's done, but if he could do that, that's a pretty sure sign there's wires shorting somewhere in the bundle of wires or the harness. I would suspect that long before the circuit board itself.

[TJ89Accord]

check out all the connections on the door speakers. Maybe one came off one side, and is grounding out. I have seen that happen before. And that would make all the speakers sound shitty like you are saying. Good luck.

tim

[HostileJava]

Originally posted by zero.counter
Here you go starting your shit again. Some inexperienced install techs would be quick to assume that the H/U is defective without performing the procedural analysis I indicated as far as troubleshooting stands. You have to rule out all possibilites before coming to a conclusion. You just can't "PASS THE BUCK" on diagnosing. Also read his first posts, about when it worked fine as it sat outside the mounting area , usually indicating a shorted or bad connection.

taking the H/U apart, especially if you are not sure of even working on electrical components (which he may or may not be, technically astute that is), is a last resort.

CASE CLOSED: He edited his post, so no need to continue, your welcome anyone BTW. :D

How'd I know you were going to reply to that? I'm just playin with ya man. :stick:

And how come you didn't order a sticker from me yet? :)

[pimp86LX]

its all done, no need to worry. It IS the deck. im 100% sure of it. Before i even considered the deck i checked all power/ground/speaker/pre-outs wires and they are all good and solid. Then i checked the deck itsself. And from sitting and fiddling i can tell that its a problem with the internal amplifier, more specifically the electronic board at the back near the heat sink.

My warrenty will repair it at no extra charge, or if the cost exceeds the retail value, they will replace it with a new one.

[zero.counter]

Originally posted by HostileJava
How'd I know you were going to reply to that? Because it was inevitable.


And how come you didn't order a sticker from me yet? :)
How much man? And where do I need to go to see the way they look?

Thanks. :D

[zero.counter]

Originally posted by pimp86LX
My warrenty will repair it at no extra charge, or if the cost exceeds the retail value, they will replace it with a new one.
Sweet deal, glad you still have a warranty.

[HostileJava]

Originally posted by zero.counter
Because it was inevitable.


How much man? And where do I need to go to see the way they look?

Thanks. :D

http://3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20995

It's a sticky in General.

[TJ89Accord]

ok cool man. Did you also check the connections at the speakers themselves just in case? U don't wanna go through the hassel of getting another deck if it blows again. Good luck.

tim