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View Full Version : Battery Relocation using "Dog Bone" motor brace



A20A1
05-09-2002, 05:24 PM
Disconnected the negative battery cable.
Disconnected the Positive battery cable.
Removed battery holding bracket
removed battery
removed battery tray
I unbolted the lower bracket supporting the battery tray (Held with / x3 10mm bolts).


I purchased:
1) x2 / 2-GUAGE Battery cables (56" long & 28" long)
2) X1 / Hard Plastic battery tray
3) x1 / Universal rubber battery holder
4) x1 / Universal metal battery tie down rods w/ wingnuts & Grommets
5) x1 / 6-GUAGE wire
6) x2 / 6-Guage crimp-on wire connectors.
7) x1 / 13mm (socket size) Bolt. I think the thread size is around 10mm ???
8) x1 / long 8mm bolt 1.00 pitch
9) x3 / small aluminum spacers to go with 8mm bolt

1) Disconnected the grounding wire from the trans...
2) Disconnected the positive wire from the fuse box in the engine bay
3) Disconnected the positive wire on the starter
4)Unbolted spark plug wire support from the left side of the cylinder head, near the distributor.
(This is where you can bolt the negative battey cable 'GROUND WIRE', if you wanted to...
I was a bit concerned since Heat = Resistance... but then the ground is real close to the sparkplugs so i think all-in-all, it was a good idea.)
Hmm... it may not be the wire support... it may be a hose support for A/C or Power steering, but I forgot.
5) Hook up new cables
a) 28" 2-GUAGE to starter
b) 56" 2-Guage to Ground - bolt to head
c) Cut to length 6-Guage to positive terminal on fuse box
6) Unbolt brake line bracket near inner CV boot on the passenger side axle. do not remove bracket. break off plactic clip protruding from the hole above the bolt. do not damage brake lines!!!!
7) with the same bolt you just took off... bolt the lower battery tray brace to the same hole that the brake bracket is using... use the lowest hole on the brace.
8) with the long 8mm bolt and some aluminum spacers... find the suitable bolt hole to secure the upper part of the brace to the car... the aluminum spaces should go on the bolt last... some bending of the tray brace is required to line the hole in the brace with the hole in the chassie.
also trying to maintain a level support for the battery tray.
9) the third hole on the brace is unused.
10) now bolt the plastic tray to the brace... drill holes as needed
11) Stick in the battery positive wire facing forward.
12) secure battery with new holders
13) connect (+) wire from starter & from Fuse box to the positive battery terminal
14) connect negative battery cable.

Pics will be up as soon as my friend lets me borrow his digital camcorder.


:p too much typing... my heads spinin :flash:

88LXiHB
05-09-2002, 06:14 PM
Pics??, where on the firewall exactly?

Jims 86LXI HB
05-09-2002, 06:25 PM
Pics would be greatly appreciated. This sounds interesting to me, since I just can't see putting the battery in the back of my hatch. Moving it to the firewall would be a improvement for weight distribution and it would free up the spot where someone might want to route the intake to.

A20A1
05-09-2002, 06:30 PM
I stuck it where the charchol canister used to be.

A20A1
05-09-2002, 06:41 PM
Hmm... it may not work if you have an intake... you'll also need to remove the black box... which i forgot the mention.

it may be easier since I think the efi guys don't have the support arm from the engine to the firewall.


Hey anyone know if I can remove the arm??? It's not suporting weight, but I guess it keeps the engine steady... I need to remove it anyways to get the air suction hose off the intake manifold.

A20A1
05-09-2002, 10:29 PM
oh wait... my bad... efi does have the support arm :rolleyes:

POS carb
05-09-2002, 11:20 PM
that "support arm" is called a torque strut because it is what controls the FWD engine's tendancy to shift back and forth because of the transfer of power in a sideways manner. With out that you'd rip up your side engine mount in no time and your motor may bang the firewall. It also messes with the transmission gear selector cable alignment and makes shifting dangerous or impossible

ACCORD EX
05-11-2002, 06:27 AM
Originally posted by POS carb
that "support arm" is called a torque strut because it is what controls the FWD engine's tendancy to shift back and forth because of the transfer of power in a sideways manner. With out that you'd rip up your side engine mount in no time and your motor may bang the firewall. It also messes with the transmission gear selector cable alignment and makes shifting dangerous or impossible


you better think twice before reomving that ! :D :D


MIKE

Jims 86LXI HB
05-11-2002, 08:21 AM
that "support arm" is called a torque strut because it is what controls the FWD engine's tendancy to shift back and forth because of the transfer of power in a sideways manner

Ok deep thinking time! I say the manuel transmission equiped cars are more likely to experience greater engine movement because clutch engagements, especially AGRESSIVE one's would transfer more torque, then you would see with a automatic equipped car. So I think the manuel cars experience greater engine rocking on that arm then the auto equiped cars. Yes or no, and if no WHY?

Any comments on this? I do have something else in mind:D

POS carb
05-11-2002, 09:43 AM
in theory yes because the stall speed of the converter causes a gradual application of power through the fluid whereas the manuals are however much force you want. Also if the motor rocks too far in a manual then you can't shift gears. Yet again on decelleration, an automatic will release the hold whereas in a manual if you don't disengage the clutch the motor will rock the other way.

Jims 86LXI HB
05-11-2002, 10:08 AM
That's what I was thinking. Thanks for the reply eric..

My reason for thinking about this is offtopic, so I'll pm you what I'm thinking about. Has to do with headers.

A20A1
07-25-2003, 01:43 PM
Okay so I got my welder back after I had lent it out for like a week or so... and I had extra metal bit lying around so i decided to try and move my battery to the firewall again.

This is what I came up with... hopefully I'll get some actual pics soon.

goldyaccord
07-25-2003, 01:49 PM
I'm sorta confused with those pics..

where's the firewall? and so on?

pimp86LX
07-25-2003, 01:55 PM
the first is a top view, and the second is a side. the firewall is behind the dog bone.


Right?

A20A1
07-25-2003, 02:04 PM
right... the battery fits like where the charcoal canister used to be... and where the black box was. there is very little clearance between the brake lines though... and that makes me nervous... but I rig up like 3 things to keep the battery from bumping them accidentaly.

goldyaccord
07-25-2003, 02:06 PM
I understand now! :)

HondaBoy
07-27-2003, 04:14 PM
hmm, how about how the civics have their battery mounted. my friends civic had it like on a shelf on the fire wall. i would tather have it in my trunk though. i may have to be thinking about this when i do my intake mod.

Justin86
07-27-2003, 05:53 PM
It would help not having the black box and all the vavum lines. I thin I'm just going to stick with my trunk. But that is a really good idea.

bobafett
07-27-2003, 08:24 PM
i wonder if we used a smaller style battery if we could fit it behind the stock intake system on an EFI car! hmmm...

A20A1
07-28-2003, 10:44 PM
BTW: Each Square rod is 3/4" in size.