Overhauling a b20a

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Alright I just got off the phone with my instructor and he said that I can get the motor and overhaul it. Now what I need is a list of parts and specs on them. I will need pistons (size and comp.), rings, valves, probably a head gasket, camshafts, pulleys, cam gears. We can't bore out the block there but this shop does it for the school for $25 for each cylinder. P&P is part of the overhaul also. What else is there to overhaul? I don't know if I will have it carbed when I overhaul it b/c of the money going into all this other stuff and the motor. I can get the money for the motor now :super: Now I just want to make sure I can afford this extra stuff I will be doing to it. He said lots of people do there own motors until they see how much it's going to cost. I told him well I have done my current motor with tons of mods and I have an idea on costs. And the guy said if it's a complete motor it shouldn't need to be overhauled. I said well I want to do it so I can put all of my performance stuff into and have a place to do it at.

[wprocomp]

well i spent $2400 dollars on my stroker motor so about half that...and i still need heads:( (another $1000)

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I expect pistons $200-$300
Valves no clue
rings hope they come with pistons :)
camshafts dont know
cam gears probably $150-$300
Pulleys about $150-$200
Headgasket set maybe $100

[wprocomp]

I would get your rods(can be $600+) shot peened or just get some custom ones...valves would be around $150-250...are you planning on doing any headwork? cams..get some todas,good cams $390,rings are seprate so $100-115...

[Mike's89AccordLX]

yeah complete overhaul.

[‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›]

are those parts used? Pretty cheap i say. and as for TODA cams forget it.. For TODA to work properly, ur going to need a whole "head kit"

[wprocomp]

nope thats through a freinds shop..now thats for B16a stuff,I am not sure what kinda diff there will be on the B20.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Those prices are just estimates. I was checking some pistons out on ebay and I could get like pistons and rings for 300-400. I would love to get JE forged pistons and rings. And get some really nice valves. What do you mean head kit? I'm P&P the head and boring the block (to what I dunno yet). Rockers and lifts? I want to do this with all good stuff. I'm taking a % out of each pay check for parts for the engine now.

[wprocomp]

if you are going to rev the shit out of it make sure and get VALVE RELEIFS put in the pistons...this will give your cam room to work..by head kit I am sure he means springs,retainers,pushrods etc.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Is there any brands for the headkit stuff?

[dXsquared]

if you are going to rev the shit out of it make sure and get VALVE RELEIFS put in the pistons...this will give your cam room to work..by head kit I am sure he means springs,retainers,pushrods etc.

PUSHRODS?? when the hell have you seen a Honda B series with fuckin PUSH RODS!!!

MIKE.. dont go lookin for pushrods... our cars dont have em..

Travis

[Mike's89AccordLX]

What I want to do is make a list of parts I will eventually need for the overhaul. And possible brand names.

[‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›]

Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
Is there any brands for the headkit stuff?

Skunk2 , Crower, TODA & Etc

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Thanks Matt now I gotta do some searching.


edit: I checked the sites Skunk2, Toda, and Crower. I didn't find anything for a b20a motor. Should I be looking for parts for the lude b20a5? I still didn't see anything for that motor either.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Here's somethings I found on ebay!

Valve Springs & Retainers:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10368&item=2426067551

Some Pistons & Rings:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10368&item=2426347535

Camshaft & Cam Gears:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2550296723&category=31485

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38656&item=2426609321

What do you guys think of these? Then I could say my car is a type R :)

[‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›]

Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
Here's somethings I found on ebay!

Valve Springs & Retainers:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10368&item=2426067551

Some Pistons & Rings:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10368&item=2426347535



What do you guys think of these? Then I could say my car is a type R :)

Better perform like a type R.. Civic Type-R pistons are better

[sanjay]

How much are you thinking of spending on this engine?
Sounds like the engine's gonna cost more than ur car....

[Mike's89AccordLX]

CTR rings too?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10368&item=2427118702


Will I want just the 81mm bore or 81.25? Like I said for $100 I could bore out the block so I guess it's no biggie to do. Any ideas on hp for boring the block? I want to use like 93 octane gas so I dont know if I can use those 12.5:1 compression ratio.

[NXRacer]

any time you build up a motor like he wants to do 90% of the time it does cost more then the car....just one of those things. luckly we dont pay much to begin with for our cars....... :D

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Well I'm going to spend around $1200 for the complete motor and 5 speed tranny. I am going to get a dual weber manifold $299, dual weber 45's $700, CTR pistons and rings $300, ITR valve springs and retainers $250, ITR camshafts and gears $200-$600.

It will be more than the car is worth (bookwise) But to me my car is apart of my life and it is priceless. I haven't found a turbo kit that will work like bolt on for it so I doubt I will turbo it. When I get everything installed I'm getting custom plates JDM B20, direct port nitrous fogger system (100-300hp boost system)

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Originally posted by NXRacer
any time you build up a motor like he wants to do 90% of the time it does cost more then the car....just one of those things. luckly we dont pay much to begin with for our cars....... :D


Exactly. Well I'm saving a ton of money by installing everything myself and I'm going to P&P the head. I hope to be above 200hp without nitrous or turbo. I want my car to be above 300hp. If I could get my hands on a ludespeed kit I would.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Would this work from ludespeed?

http://www.ludespeed.com/products/prelude/manifold.html

Or would Sean's turbo log style maniold work? I really would like a turbo but if it wont work with my dual webers then I will just build the crap out of the motor.

[2old_honda]

dude DO NOT get high compression pistons if you are going to use a turbocharger. What you need to do first is figure out if you want to go turbo or n/a. Then build the engine accordingly. You will spend less money in the long run and will be happier with the results.

[2old_honda]

Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
Or would Sean's turbo log style maniold work? I really would like a turbo but if it wont work with my dual webers then I will just build the crap out of the motor.

Sean's manifold will not work. You need a b series manifold. Luckily there are tons of them out there.
If you are going turbo I would highly recommend fuel injection.

[‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›]

What exactly are you trying to do? Turbo= low compression. N/A = High Compresion. Decide first then buy.. but if u decide to go N/A CTR is ur best bet. Cheaper and better for you engine.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Originally posted by ‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›
What exactly are you trying to do? Turbo= low compression. N/A = High Compresion. Decide first then buy.. but if u decide to go N/A CTR is ur best bet. Cheaper and better for you engine.

Matt... I'm not dumb..... (most of the time) I know what compressions are good for turbo or n/a. high for n/a and low for turbo. I wanted to know if there's a turbo setup that I can easily get my hands on. I think I will just go with N/A b/c it will be easiest and I won't really have to worry about it too much.

[‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›]

Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
Matt... I'm not dumb..... (most of the time) I know what compressions are good for turbo or n/a. high for n/a and low for turbo. I wanted to know if there's a turbo setup that I can easily get my hands on. I think I will just go with N/A b/c it will be easiest and I won't really have to worry about it too much.

Wrong Sir... Even with an N/A set up high maintaince is required.. Just get the engine and enjoy it. u will be happy with just having the B20 in.. Then worry about the mods later.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Well this is the thing, its a school project and I figure I would eventually want those parts so I might as well do it right away before it's swapped in. Like what is different about maintenance?

[2old_honda]

Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
Well this is the thing, its a school project and I figure I would eventually want those parts so I might as well do it right away before it's swapped in. Like what is different about maintenance?

Just like a turbo puts more stress on the engine, so does a high compession n/a setup. You need to keep all of the systems in check. Strict oil changes, plugs, etc. Also if you will be using the DCOEs you will need to keep them under fine adjustment.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I already do strict oil changeds, plugs, and tune my carb whenever the weather changes in heat or cold. I think I will be better off with N/A. I figured if I built up the internals really nice it would be good with just doing maintenance. I know most of the things on the motor will be fine but I just figured this would be my chance to do the stuff I'd want to eventually do.

[wprocomp]

dammit I am too use to working on building smallblocks...this shit is crazy...I have been looking around at prices and 4pistons for a friggin B series motor cost more than 8 for a small chevy...hey mike are going to stay carb or or going the F.I. route?

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I'm going to stay carbed b/c I don't want to go through the FI swap. I will get dual weber 45's, bigger fuel pump (holley and holley regulator also) I will eventually get a CF hood when I get a paint job. I will also get those stainless steel hoses too. (easier to do when enigne is out, and I will upgrade the grounds too.) I will go with the CTR pistons & rings. I'm thinking I want a 11.1:1 or a 11.5:1 compression ratio. And have the block bored out to 81.25mm. I don't know what valves I'm set on yet. But I will figure it out soon.