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RustyHo88
08-08-2003, 08:23 PM
I’ve been mulling over this for about a month now, and I think I've done all my homework. The car I want to do this to is a 1984 Honda accord 1.8 liter, has cruise, no A/C. it also has 232000 miles on it, but still runs very well, besides the stalling... that’s why I want a new carb. So, I am just going to start listing everything I’ve been thinking about. You guys give me advice

Disadvantages- no more temp sending unit, possibly no more cruise (2g cruise doesn’t run on vacuum like 3g, but it does have a vacuum connection to it), 2g carb is different than 3g... so I might come across problems people don’t know how to fix.

Advantages- no more stalling or misfiring (hopefully), better accelerator response, easier to work on, un-clutter engine compartment, more reliable, and most importantly... ill learn more about carburetors!

So, here is what I plan to do... unless someone convinces me otherwise. Remove old carb, clean off intake manifold, connect 2 heater hoses together that used to connect to manifold, cap all holes on manifold and seal the coolant hole on the top with metal sealant, install new Weber carb, cover vacuum hole on Weber carb, connect vac advance diaphragm hoses to back of manifold, modify throttle cable linkage, reconnect fuel line to carb... adjust carb to idle right... and I'm good to go... right?
I'm sure I’m missing something... that’s where you guys come in.

When I’m done with all this, I can also remove the black box, charcoal canister, and vacuum canisters. I may also remove the egr pipes going to the exhaust manifold... well see. And where does my pcv filter go? Should I just get one of those filters that lets the air from the crankcase escape right into the engine compartment?

Guys, I know you are all probably out there shaking your heads and feeling sorry for me and my stupidity. But hey, I’ve got time on my hands right now, and I’ve been doing work on my car for a while now. So, give me some advice, ask for clarification, do what you can to help me out. If it will help, ill take off the air cleaner housing and take pictures of my carb.

Maybe when I’m done, ill be knowledgeable enough to make a how-to on putting Weber’s on a 2g. :D

Anyway, that’s about it. If I missed something, let me know. All you 2g experts (phydeaux), tell me what I missed. And all you carb experts (a20a1) make sure to dumb down your answer to me so I can understand what you are saying. :bow:

Sorry about the long post, I have a lot of thoughts racing through my head right now. Thanks everyone!

PhydeauX
08-08-2003, 08:44 PM
Theres a weber kit for the 84-85 accord, you should have no problems installing it comes with instructions too. The cruise should still work, its attached to the accelerator pedal not the carb. You will have to keep its vacuum line hooked in. Its kinda run through the frame for a bit and hidden from view, its one of the big ones just pay attenetion to where the lines go when you take them off and you'll find it. I don't think the 2g has the same problem as the 3g with the coolant passage to the carb so you shouldn't need to block that or disconnect the coolant hoses from the manifold. Living in michigan you problaby don't want to disconect the hoses, it can be a pain to drive and takes for ever to warm up with out those hoses in the winter. I had trouble with it and I doesn't get much below 30 here. The easyest way to correct that coolant passage problem on a 3g is to just make a new gasket. The only reason it leaks is because there is a passage cut into the stock gasket. God knows why they cut it out like that, they must have though the port was for egr or something. Just taking a piece of gasket paper and cutting out a new gasket w/o the passage will take care of it. If you do remove the hoses from the manifold a LX-i t-stat housing has the temp sender in it. Just swap one of those on, using your temp sender in it, and you'll be fine. Its a realitivly easy job as long as you know which way to turn a wrench you'll manage it no problem. One more suggestion, use lock-tite on the bolts that hold the adapter to the manifold and the adapter together. They have a tendancy to work their way loose.

andy

RustyHo88
08-09-2003, 05:48 AM
I didnt think any of the 84-85 accords were fuel injected... therefore i cant get a lxi thermostat housing... unless the 3g lxi thermostat housing will fit my 2g... is that possible? Im a little confused about what you said about the cruise vacuum line. the cruise actuator on my car is in the same spot as the 3g, not on the lower passanger side like an 83 or earlier. the vacuum hose goes right into the drivers side of the carb, so where should i hook it into when i get a weber? will i have to modify my throttle cable to come in from behind the carb to make the weber work, or can i leave it where it is coming in from the front? also, on piercemanifolds.com, it said i would have to get a new fuel pump. do i really have a get a new FP... and if i do, why? i can understand why i should use lock-tight bolts, that carb can get pretty hot. i was looking at my car this morning, and i cant seem to find the temp sending unit in the back of the carb. but i did find some vacuum hoses hooked up to something on my thermostat housing... is that my temp sending unit, or is that my thermostat? anyway, thanks for all your help andy, im hopefully going to order that weber as soon as i get my 88 running well.

PhydeauX
08-09-2003, 06:50 AM
The 3g t-stat looks like it should fit, if not there was a SE-i version in 85 with fuel injection. You shouldn't need a new fuel pump, your stock one will be fine. The temp sensor is a little black thing on the bottom back side of the intake. There is one wire running to it. The things with the vacuum lines running to them are thermo vacuum switches. In my 85 the cruise vacuum line ran into the frame. I would expet the 84 to do the same, but it doesnt really matter. Just hook it up to the manifold somewhere and you'll be fine.

andy

RustyHo88
08-25-2003, 06:50 AM
if i leave my manifold heater hooked up, i wont have to worry about getting a thermostat housing from a efi will i? i should be able to just leave the temp sending unit there... i assume. anyway, i need some help with the concept of removing the vac lines on these carburators. what needs to be kept, and how does it need to be hooked up. or... can i use the how-to from the 3g conversion?

A20A1
08-25-2003, 11:35 AM
no the 3g and the 2g are different... how different I don't know... don't use the 3g weber install when doing the 2g install, listen to what PhydeauX is saying since he's about the only other person on here with a 2g.

PhydeauX
08-25-2003, 02:47 PM
The manifolds are very similar, the whole engine is really. You'll need to put the temp sensor in the tstat housing if you want it to work with the manifold heater disabled.

andy

RustyHo88
08-26-2003, 04:39 AM
yea, but i live in upper michigan, so im going to need the manifold heater. to put on a weber, i dont NEED to bypass the manifold heater do i? my real question is... when you remove all the vacuum lines, what are you leaving connected? what does the carb absolutely need to function?

PhydeauX
08-26-2003, 05:16 AM
You can leave it, shouldn't be a problem. Check to make sure that there isn't a passage letting coolant into the carb like the 3g has, I don't think the 2g has it but I'm not sure. If the passage is there plug it. You will need to leave the vacuum advance, power brake, and if you have the push button vent controls the line that feeds them. The vacuum advance port is on the weber, the vent control is the one that runs into the cowl, and the power brake is the biggest one.

andy

RustyHo88
08-26-2003, 03:13 PM
thats it? so just plug everything on the carb, connect the vacuum advance and power brake booster to the manifold? sounds easy enough. now, what if i wanted to remove the vacuum lines on the 2g? what would i have to keep connected?